Oil coming out air lock line

[MissDrew]

The rear lock in my 80 is pumping oil up the air line and out threw the solinod. Its not the normal small amount that you will often get up the line it enough where it has covered the inner guard and now drips on the ground

I know it`ll be a seal but is it one that would have been damaged during installation?

The lock is only new and has only been used 2 or 3 times and it has been doing this since about 4 weeks after install and only 1 use.

[known 2]

mine did that about after 1 week of use, have u allso naticed that u no longer get a whistle sound when u disengage it?

the solution i tried was uncloging my diff breather and putting a one way valve on the end of hose, wich works better the rest of leakage runs into my chasy rails.

[MissDrew]

Shouldn`t have to do anything as it shouldn`t be pumping oil up the air line. I`ve had air locks in my hilux for about 7 years and never once have I had this problem and they get used heeps.

[G_loomis]

One of the seals in the locker itself has gone Kaput. Mine did the same, though it took 5 years, not 4 weeks.

There shouldnt be any air coming out your diff breathers at all...as the air from the locker should NOT be in that part of the housing.

I am afraid the centre has to come out and new seals fitted to the locker. Since its only new, I would imagine the waranty would cover it though.

[MissDrew]

One of the seals in the locker itself has gone Kaput. Mine did the same, though it took 5 years, not 4 weeks.

There shouldnt be any air coming out your diff breathers at all...as the air from the locker should NOT be in that part of the housing.

I am afraid the centre has to come out and new seals fitted to the locker. Since its only new, I would imagine the waranty would cover it though.

I know its a seal that has gone.
It does not leak air, not even a little bit. It ONLY pumps oil up the air line and out via the solinod.
I know the centre will have to come out

I want to know if it`d be a seal that might have been damaged during install.

[DAWSO 4x4]

Does it only do it when the locker has been ingaged or does it all the time

[MissDrew]

Does it only do it when the locker has been ingaged or does it all the time

All the time from what I can tell. The lock hasn`t been turned on for months and it has oil every where.

If the lock gets turned on it pushes the oil back down the line, turn it off and all is good in the short term. Then over time it works its way back up again.

[RUFF]

Does it only do it when the locker has been ingaged or does it all the time

All the time from what I can tell. The lock hasn`t been turned on for months and it has oil every where.

If the lock gets turned on it pushes the oil back down the line, turn it off and all is good in the short term. Then over time it works its way back up again.

If its doing it all the time then you prob have a blocked breather. And also could have water in the oil. So its getting hot and pushing oil up the line.

Could be the 2 o-ring seals or it could be the piston seal you wont know till you pull it out.

[MissDrew]

mmmm I`m wanting to know if its warranty or not.
I`m thinking it will be as the person that installed it has done loads of them before and has never had a install problem with one yet.

No water in diff, might check the breather isn`t blocked.

[GQ Bear]

Who installed it? If ARB did you're laughing. Take it to 'em and demand they fix it under 2yr parts and labour warranty. If someone else fitted it then ARB will warrantee the seal (about $5) but then it's upto the installer to come good with his side of the bargain.

[MissDrew]

Who installed it? If ARB did you're laughing. Take it to 'em and demand they fix it under 2yr parts and labour warranty. If someone else fitted it then ARB will warrantee the seal (about $5) but then it's upto the installer to come good with his side of the bargain.

But if its a seal that has gone in the lock and has nothing to do with the install then they (ARB) should warranty the seal and the removing/refitting of the centre.

This is why I`m wanting to know what it is before I go and see ARB. If its a fitting problem then they will not even here from me, other then getting a new seal.

[mac1cruz]

When I had my front done about 2 months ago at Arb it leaked from the get go and had to pull it out.They said the seal was sh$t and they replaced it for free but he also told me that they had a email saying that there was a bad batch of seals in some of the airlockers.

Hope that might help you Guts...

[GQ Bear]

Who installed it? If ARB did you're laughing. Take it to 'em and demand they fix it under 2yr parts and labour warranty. If someone else fitted it then ARB will warrantee the seal (about $5) but then it's upto the installer to come good with his side of the bargain.

But if its a seal that has gone in the lock and has nothing to do with the install then they (ARB) should warranty the seal and the removing/refitting of the centre.

This is why I`m wanting to know what it is before I go and see ARB. If its a fitting problem then they will not even here from me, other then getting a new seal.

I had a suspected seal and had a huge s**t fight with ARB and installer(not ARB) to have it fixed. Turns out i was just a couple of months on the good side of my warranty and after threats and other irate phone calls to Kilsyth head office and visits to installer, they agreed to fix it under warrranty. If it turned out to be a fitment error they would bill the installer.

Turned out it was only a ruptured air-line, but i learnt a lot by that experience. You're very popular browsing in store but once the money's been handed over your as popular as the dirt in the driveway.

[jimbo jones]

I've got a pro lokker on order they dont have any oil seal's to leak I think it's a much better set up

[guzzla]

good call jmibo jones. i have considered replacing my rear arb with a tjm unit. it works but leaks oil on and off and im starting to lose faith in its so called long term test record.

i might do it when they get the front unit for the 80s as well and throw arb's in the crap heap.

as for you guts, there is a line inside that if not routed correctly will push oil up the line. this fixed both of mine for 1 year but the rear is starting again. dumbdunce would be your best sorce of info as he has fitted heaps of them without issues.

are they covered by a 2yr warranty ?

[dbongard]

But if its a seal that has gone in the lock and has nothing to do with the install then they (ARB) should warranty the seal and the removing/refitting of the centre.

This is why I`m wanting to know what it is before I go and see ARB. If its a fitting problem then they will not even here from me, other then getting a new seal.

Talk to your installer.
He should know the diagnostics procedure for that.
Most of the time it just turns out to be a blocked axle breather, especially on Toyota's.
If your installer doesn't have the answers then he will contact ARB.

daniel
AIR LOCKER

[V6XtraHilux]

Ive had this problem since day one on my rear locker. Had it installed at ARB Moorebank in NSW, and when it started leaking, they fixed it under warrantly. They claim that alot of diffs in newer Toyos have this problem. Pulled out the centre, checked everything, then in addition to that they put in a "purge valve" in the airlocker line. This stopped oil coming out at the solenoid, but meant it dripped oil at the purge valve, which drips all over my rear axle!

Since then it worked fine and no leaks, but a some months ago I noticed alot of oil around the driveshaft seal on the rear axle. Had the sela replaced, but turned out the oil was coming out around the brass fitting screwed into the diff housing. ARB was quite "beat round the bush" about fixing it, but if I dropped if off at Moorebank for 2 days, theyd look at it. I live in the noprthern beaches so makes it impossible to do that. Still dripping oil.

Also had a locker fitted to the front IFS diff, and it also dripped oil from day dot. My installed (not ARB) got charged by ARB agent (not ARB franchisee) to supply a purge valve, and then he charged me. It then became a shit fight. Oil now leaks from the purge valve lines.

All in all, I got to admit that Moorebank where great, but a bit limited with service options, I cant give em the car for 2 days!! ARB agent didnt want to know about it, claiming ARB themselves know its a huge problem, BLAH BLAH BLAH, no care NO responsibility! Again, and I agree with GQ Bear "once the money's been handed over your as popular as the dirt in the driveway."

At the end of the day, no one will take responsibility when the locker is installed by a NON - ARB installed, so be weary!!!!

[dbongard]

...they put in a "purge valve" in the airlocker line. This stopped oil coming out at the solenoid, but meant it dripped oil at the purge valve, which drips all over my rear axle!

If it is passing oil through a purge valve at all then you have a definite issue somewhere. Purge valves were invented to answer for the "Toyota problem" because their breathers are so prone to failure which builds up pressure inside the diff. These valves actually have a built in regulator which hold back 3 to 4 PSI of pressure inside the diff to counteract the breather blockages. Make sure your breather is clear and you don't have water in the diff. If it were me that would include scrapping the Toyo 1-way spring loaded breather cap and extending the breathers up to the dry air point and simply 'J' terminating them. If you still get oil seepage then it would most likely be a seal housing set-up problem. You can either route the purge valve exhaust line to somewhere it doesn't bother you (this is a one way line and doesn't need to be dry or clean) or can get the set-up looked at. Mark at Moorebank is one of the best diff installers I know of. He should be able to help.

Had the seal replaced, but turned out the oil was coming out around the brass fitting screwed into the diff housing.

This makes it sound even more like breather pressure. The 'brass' bulkhead fitting screwed into the diff housing is an NPT thread the same as a gas fitting. It takes pressure to get oil past this thread.

Also had a locker fitted to the front IFS diff, and it also dripped oil from day dot. My installed (not ARB) got charged by ARB agent (not ARB franchisee) to supply a purge valve, and then he charged me. It then became a shit fight. Oil now leaks from the purge valve lines.

A purge valve should not have been used to try to cover up a problem.
Although seepage won't hurt you other then a bit of mess, it could be a warning sign that your carrier bearings are not preloaded or that a bearing is damaged. therefore, chasing the seepage could save you a ring & pinion set in the future. Similarly, a blocked breather exerts pressure on your axle seals and pinion seal which causes premature wear on them until you get leaky axles someday. Diagnosing the breather problem early would save this.

daniel
AIR LOCKER

[V6XtraHilux]

Ive had diff breathers on my diffs since day one, and just after the issues with the front diff, I replaced all the lines and checked them. Rear oil problem is still an issue.
Like I said, ARB moorebank were happy to look at the rear diff, but Id have to leave the truck for 2 days...which is a cant do.

The front diff was fitted with the air locker after the crown wheel was smashed, and the bearings were looked at at that time. The seals were replaced at the same time, but some time later I had to get the seals done again as they leaked oil. Interestingly, the original air locker installer did all this work, for extra $$, and subsequeant to this I found that he had put in ANOTHER fitting into the diff and run a new line to the compressor. The old fitting was fitted with a hose and run for about a foot.

Needless to say, I havent gone back to that mechanic, didnt inspire much confidence.

I havent noticed anything new lately, but its all due for me to check the oils, which have NEVER had any water in them!!

Motto: Always use a mechanic you have trusted for a LONG time, or go direct to ARB, not an agent. Some agents dont give a sh*t!

[dbongard]

When you say you had breathers, are you referring to an extension tube leading to the original Toyota one-way valve cap?
(this is what most people do)

OK. My $0.02 on Toyota one-way breather caps:

SCRAP THE TOYOTA BREATHER CAPS!!!!

They use a rubber stopper spring loaded onto a valve seat.
When the axle assembly heats up, the air expands, creates pressure, overcomes the spring and escapes past the stopper through the valve.
Sounds reasonable enough in theory to most....that is until you ask yourself the question "What happens when the axle cools off?"
Well, the answer is that vacuum is created sucking the breather stopper firmly onto its seat blocking off the breather, and so the air is usually sucked slowly in through the oil seals at the axles. Not ideal, but not usually too harmful either until you consider what happens when you do a water crossing.

The axle assembly cools off instantaneously and air cannot get in through the seals which are then under water.
This creates a vacuum surge strong enough to literally glue the Toyota breather cap shut.
Ever used a rubber gasket without any sealant?...it still sticks like glue just from the pressure.

But with the diff still cooling and the vacuum still building, something has to give and that is usually the axle seals as they let water flow past into your axle.

As if that wasn't enough reason to scrap these breather caps, the valve will now remain glued shut until excessive pressure builds back up to blow it open again.

NOTE: Anybody ever touch their Toyota valve cap and find that the touch of a finger made it suddenly pop up? That was the 'glue' effect I'm talking about.

Unfortunately this pressure adversely effects your Air Locker by applying air pressure to it in the wrong direction, and thus pushing oil into the air system.

It's not mechanically harmful, and won't even disable the locker engagement. It's just a bit messy when it reaches the other end, which usually takes considerable driving time.

As for the best breather solution at the end of the tube:
Obviously make sure the tube is run to a point above the highest water line (that's the tip of the radio antenna for some guys )
And then try a fuel filter as a termination or just leave the tube open and bend a 'J' shape in the end of it so water doesn't run down into it.

If you already knew this, then sorry for rambling on.
But somebody out there might not have been aware of all this.

daniel
AIR LOCKER

[V6XtraHilux]

Yep, knew all that already, but good info for young players out there.

Ive always had different dreathers than Toyo OE, they have always been limited and are used as a cheap alternative to a decent one. Typical Toyo ideology. Did you know that Nissan trucks come with factory fitted hard drawn pipework connected to the breathers? If only Toyo could follow, but then they would have to up the price some more for an already inflated priced product!

I used to have breathers terminating in the hard formed sand type filters, and when I replaced them they were un blocked. I now run fuel filters to see how these go. They are cheaper to replace than the hard formed sand filters.

As for the oil problems in the Air Lockers, ARB are aware of the problem, they produced the purge valves to cover the problems, and then they try to stick their heads in the sand when the problem arises.

[80UTE]

Ive fitted dozens and dozens of lockers mainly on Toyota's over the years and have never had this problem. They changed the design of the seal housing about 2 years ago so it was retained by a wire spring clip instead of the 3 small socket head screws. This was to eleiminate the seal housing being screwed tight not concentric to the carrier and this made it work like a pump and push oil up the tube and out the soleniod valve. The newer system with the clip allows the housing to centre its self as it can float around slightly. When installing the locker it is esential that the o-rings are not twisted when installed as this is a sure way of having problems with oil being pushed up the tube.

Wally

[dbongard]

...ARB are aware of the problem, they produced the purge valves to cover the problems...

The purge valves were designed to try to remedy what we refer to as the 'Toyota problem'. That's not a shot at Toyota's. I love them personally. But the guy who designed their axle breathers must have been the owner's nephew or something. The valve caps are just the beginning of the problems. The location is also wrong on 90% of their axles. On 80 78, & 100 series live front axles you'll find the breather tubes plumbed into the far end of the axle tubes. These are high pinion assemblies so the oil level is elevated as well. So when you drive off-camber for a while with the axle tube completely filled with oil there is no way to push air out at all...so it just pushes a column of oil up the breather line. Then even when you straighten up you can't vent the pressure because you have a breather line full of oil being held in place by pressure. So you just drive around with a pressurized axle the rest of the day until your axle can cool off.
ARB has had several inquiries from Toyota owners WITHOUT Air Lockers who just wanted to know if we knew why they had oil coming out of their breathers.

You'll notice that Toyota attempted to remedy this in later models.
By relocating the breather somewhere sensible?
No-way! Instead they put a small vessel in-line on the breather tube to catch the oil that was being forced out.

So really the proper fix would include drilling and tapping a new breather port somewhere above the oil line where it won't be splashed by the ring gear. Rather than having to instruct the world on breather design, ARB designed a valve that is capable of maintaining a back pressure inside the diff to try to match the back pressure created by bad breathers.

Besides that the purge valve is a great alternative to disassembling your compressor to empty the moisture out (a problem for all air compressors). You can just press a button and shoot the compressor contents straight out the purge valve exhaust port.

As for your truck, if you're comfortable that your breathers are good then you'll probably need to get it to an expert. Overnight is a pain, but you'll find that they need to quote you the worst case scenario just in case they run into overtime. Diagnosing any kind of drivetrain issues can sometimes take more than an 8 hour working day.

[rixrunner]

So far so good with my new fitment.... no oil coming up the lines.

I overkilled it with the new diff breathers though, but I would be suprised if they ever got blocked up .

The real test comes this weekend when I hopefully give them a workout

[manzzook]

Ive also fitted a few of these, and had to fix a couple that others had fitted. Most of the time its either the o-ring was torn on installation, or the installer has got the seal housing all rooster-eyed, so the o-ring doesnt touch in one spot and hence leaks air/oil.