Well summer has arrived and engine temps are going up, I need to get the hot air out from under the bonnet and have just bought some vents from whitworths marine they are a 3 louvre engine set and was just after some advice on where is the best place to fit them on top or side of the bonnet. any advice would be appreciated
TIA
Dixie
ps it's a 2 door with a 308
and i have pictures just don't know how to post them
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Bonnet Vents
Moderator: Micka
Bonnet Vents
There is no such thing as a stupid question only stupid people
I would say that would depend on when it is that you are having problems.
Hot air rises, so if the problem is when you are going rear slow the best place would be on top of the bonnet. (have seen a reversed wrx scoop work very well in this instance).
If it is more at cruising speed then the air flowing through the engine bay is more likely to be forced out through scuttle panel vents.
Have a search in this section also for information about cooling and the negative effect that vents have on forcing cool air through the radiator.
Hot air rises, so if the problem is when you are going rear slow the best place would be on top of the bonnet. (have seen a reversed wrx scoop work very well in this instance).
If it is more at cruising speed then the air flowing through the engine bay is more likely to be forced out through scuttle panel vents.
Have a search in this section also for information about cooling and the negative effect that vents have on forcing cool air through the radiator.
Warn - Dont leave home without it
They look good I'll think put mine in the same position, did you paint yours black or did they come that colour as mine are polished stainless (the bling effect)86MUD wrote:Have a look at mine.
I have the whitworths 3 louvre vents on each side of the bonnet to let hot air out and a nissan patrol bonnet scoop to let cool air in...
Makes a big difference on long trips...
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks again
Dixie
There is no such thing as a stupid question only stupid people
Yes they are and solastic is your friend.86MUD wrote:I just spray painted them with engine enamel and are attached with rivets...they get pretty hot!
Hey maggott, are those vents on your scuttle panel the same as the vents on the rear vinyl covered panel? How did you attach them?
Cheers
Andrew
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
vents
top of the bonet back corners[img][img]http://thumb13.webshots.net/t/59/159/9/81/49/2432981490017340253rQMwCK_th.jpg[/img]
The liver is evil and it must be punished!!!!!!
Andrew, is that a P6B next to your Rangie? Is it yours?TRobbo wrote:I would say that would depend on when it is that you are having problems.
Hot air rises, so if the problem is when you are going rear slow the best place would be on top of the bonnet. (have seen a reversed wrx scoop work very well in this instance).
If it is more at cruising speed then the air flowing through the engine bay is more likely to be forced out through scuttle panel vents.
Have a search in this section also for information about cooling and the negative effect that vents have on forcing cool air through the radiator.
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
Twin thermos
Hi,
On this topic you could have a look at the discoveryauto site from WA. They do louvred bonnets etc.
I'm running a 350 Chev with a standard RR 3.5 radiator and have recently put twin thermos behind the rad, one fan running all the time and one on temp. Cost 195 for the themos with surround, 50 for the temp switch and 5 for the relays. Works incredibly well. Never gets over half on the temp gauge now. When you see the twin thermo shroud you'll see why it works so well.
Also water pump will last longer because it doesn't have an out of balance fan hanging off it. Only 100 bucks for a Chev anyway.
just another option, DL.
On this topic you could have a look at the discoveryauto site from WA. They do louvred bonnets etc.
I'm running a 350 Chev with a standard RR 3.5 radiator and have recently put twin thermos behind the rad, one fan running all the time and one on temp. Cost 195 for the themos with surround, 50 for the temp switch and 5 for the relays. Works incredibly well. Never gets over half on the temp gauge now. When you see the twin thermo shroud you'll see why it works so well.
Also water pump will last longer because it doesn't have an out of balance fan hanging off it. Only 100 bucks for a Chev anyway.
just another option, DL.
Twin thermos
Hi,
On this topic you could have a look at the discoveryauto site from WA. They do louvred bonnets etc.
I'm running a 350 Chev with a standard RR 3.5 radiator and have recently put twin thermos behind the rad, one fan running all the time and one on temp. Cost 195 for the themos with surround, 50 for the temp switch and 5 for the relays. Works incredibly well. Never gets over half on the temp gauge now. When you see the twin thermo shroud you'll see why it works so well.
Also water pump will last longer because it doesn't have an out of balance fan hanging off it. Only 100 bucks for a Chev anyway.
just another option, DL.
On this topic you could have a look at the discoveryauto site from WA. They do louvred bonnets etc.
I'm running a 350 Chev with a standard RR 3.5 radiator and have recently put twin thermos behind the rad, one fan running all the time and one on temp. Cost 195 for the themos with surround, 50 for the temp switch and 5 for the relays. Works incredibly well. Never gets over half on the temp gauge now. When you see the twin thermo shroud you'll see why it works so well.
Also water pump will last longer because it doesn't have an out of balance fan hanging off it. Only 100 bucks for a Chev anyway.
just another option, DL.
Justin
Not mine...but it was in great nic. The photo was taken at a "All British car display" which is held in Brisbane once a year. There were quite a few P6B's there.
My old man use to have a P6B for many years. It was "tan" in colour (not sure of the official colour) I was always fascinated by the front suspension set up. Very comfortable car to drive.
Cheers
Andrew
Not mine...but it was in great nic. The photo was taken at a "All British car display" which is held in Brisbane once a year. There were quite a few P6B's there.
My old man use to have a P6B for many years. It was "tan" in colour (not sure of the official colour) I was always fascinated by the front suspension set up. Very comfortable car to drive.
Cheers
Andrew
Twin thermos
Hi 6.5,
Have images, but can't figure out how to post. Will send to your email. Feel free to post. The thermos are an EL Ford copy and come with the shroud which just needs about 10 mins trimming to fit RR radiator. The fans cover a huge area of the radiator. One runs all the time ignition is on, the other is governed by an adjustable temp switch, with the sender in the top rad hose.
Made up aluminium brackets from shroud to the two RR radiator mounting bolts to take the weight, as I had probs in the past with cracked tanked seams.
cheers, DL
Have images, but can't figure out how to post. Will send to your email. Feel free to post. The thermos are an EL Ford copy and come with the shroud which just needs about 10 mins trimming to fit RR radiator. The fans cover a huge area of the radiator. One runs all the time ignition is on, the other is governed by an adjustable temp switch, with the sender in the top rad hose.
Made up aluminium brackets from shroud to the two RR radiator mounting bolts to take the weight, as I had probs in the past with cracked tanked seams.
cheers, DL
I had a set of these fans but was no way they would fit (mine runs an MQ Patrol radiator) as they were to wide. Now i run two 12" Davies Craig, but they sit about 15mm off the radiator so i will need to make some sort of shroud and the vents that i have either side of the scuttle are now blocked by duel snorkels so will have to do some sort off bonnet scoop arrangement.
It runs cool until i shut the bonnet
It runs cool until i shut the bonnet
Damien
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry I dont have a real photos of the car any more but I did manage to find this. This was A rangie I built a while ago. As you can see i put a huge bonet vent on. The side werem ade of alluminum and bought one of those aluminum door vents from bunnings. It was a reasnably cheep thing to build but the car never ran hot as all the hot air was directed up.
For Kart racing information please visit our site at www.auskart.net
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest