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Chevy to FJ75 troopy

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Chevy to FJ75 troopy

Post by V8Patrol »

A troopy arrived here yesterday from NSW.....on the back of a semi (pmsl), sorry couldnt help that !!!
its a fj75 series troopy with 439,231k's on the clock and the motor .....she is stuffed, highest cylinder compression is number 5 with 30PSI !!!.
The owner has given a fist full of $$$$ and said "fix it".... plans are...
350 chev
SOA lift
replace ALL bearings/seals etc
brakes
new bullbar
rust removal/respray
new seats
etc etc etc etc.

Work will start on this unit in the next fortnight or so when room in the w/shop becomes available.

Conversion kit will be a Castlemaine Rodshop kit, Motor is supplied by "Enginemart" and the rest will be inhouse stuff.
First queery is the "Clutch"
Is there a differance between the petrol /diesel clutches as there is in nissans?. The diesel clutch plate and pressure plate in a nissan is lager in diameter and heavier duty than the petrol clutch. If this is the case with toyotas we're laughing !!
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Re: Chevy to FJ75 troopy

Post by Singo17 »

V8Patrol wrote:A troopy arrived here yesterday from NSW.....on the back of a semi (pmsl), sorry couldnt help that !!!
its a fj75 series troopy with 439,231k's on the clock and the motor .....she is stuffed, highest cylinder compression is number 5 with 30PSI !!!.
The owner has given a fist full of $$$$ and said "fix it".... plans are...
350 chev
SOA lift
replace ALL bearings/seals etc
brakes
new bullbar
rust removal/respray
new seats
etc etc etc etc.

Work will start on this unit in the next fortnight or so when room in the w/shop becomes available.

Conversion kit will be a Castlemaine Rodshop kit, Motor is supplied by "Enginemart" and the rest will be inhouse stuff.
First queery is the "Clutch"
Is there a differance between the petrol /diesel clutches as there is in nissans?. The diesel clutch plate and pressure plate in a nissan is lager in diameter and heavier duty than the petrol clutch. If this is the case with toyotas we're laughing !!


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Post by bj on roids »

a word of advice, you dont wanna SOA a troop carrier!
hands and mums dont count!!!
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Post by V8Patrol »

bj on roids wrote:a word of advice, you dont wanna SOA a troop carrier!


other than the centre of gravity issue.... why not ??????????????
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Post by bj on roids »

V8Patrol wrote:
bj on roids wrote:a word of advice, you dont wanna SOA a troop carrier!


other than the centre of gravity issue.... why not ??????????????


Well, thats just IT, the centre of gravity issue. These things are rollover prone as a SUA :roll:
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Post by V8Patrol »

I admit its an issue to contend with but I'll add some info ....

Its got 2 LPG tanks at the rear between the chassis rails ....
It runs a longrange fuel tank in the centre of the vehicle ...
Has a auxillary fuel tank ( about 40lits) just infront of the rear diff..
There are no internal seats etc, other than the front seats....
The owner has 2 labradors...... both over weight !!!
The owner is about 19 stone !!!!!
the suspension is obviously stuffed !!!!!

:rofl: got any sugestions ???????????
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Post by dumbdunce »

does he want flex for rock crawling/hardcore 4 wheeling? if so go the SOA and pull leaves - with flattened spring packs it will only be 4" over height. It's still tippy though, especially on the road on corners, where the softness of the minimised spring packs doesn't do anything to hold the outside corners up. he'll have to ditch some weight out of it too.

OR does he want load carrying capacity and/or highway performance? stick in a set of heavy duty springs with 2 - 3" lift (OME, Tough Dog, or whoever), if he is going to load it to the top with fat bloke, dogs, and tons of fuel, this is the way to go.


I reckon there's no real super compromise between the two - sure you can get taller, SUA springs but they tend to be stiffer and the ride goes to crap.
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Post by V8Patrol »

Its flat country where this rig comes from so tipping isnt really a problem, the main reason is for bogholes... he simply hooks up because of the ground clearance and he is largely on his own (no winch either). He's owned the 4bee for around 9 years and is used to its every mood so I think he'd adapt to the lift fairly easy. I'm trying to talk him into a set of 15x8 rims with some 33" or 35" rubber under it in order to widen the wheelbase, but he is "old book" and recons the 16" splitrims are just the greatest so long as they are fitted up with 825x16 Dunlop Supergrippers.
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Post by dumbdunce »

soa on 7.50/16's???? that's, um. mental. don't do it. this bloke is not a springover candidate.

get him to spend the springover cash on a 8274 with 70m of plasma on it and a kickarse triple battery system and alternator upgrade to run it.
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Post by bundytunna »

I'm trying to talk him into a set of 15x8 rims with some 33" or 35" rubber under it in order to widen the wheelbase, but he is "old book" and recons the 16" splitrims are just the greatest so long as they are fitted up with 825x16 Dunlop Supergrippers.

uve gotta be kidding me :bad-words:
thats is fuggin insane
thatll tip first tme out
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Post by spazbot »

just make sure you get him to agree not to bitch when he flops it when driving out of the work shop
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Post by Tojo »

255/85 16inch tyres are taller than 33" and skinny and will fit his standard split rims. They would be close in size to the 825's i think, possibly a tad wider. If that is not tall enough then try 900 - 16. They are taller than 35" and still skinny. He won't get hung up in many bogholes using 900 - 16's. They do fit standard landcruiser split rims but wider split rims will work better. 900 - 16 sizes are available in dunlop custom extra grip, bar treads and also light truck radials. These will fit with SUA. They will rub on full lock and if flexed up too much. Sounds like he needs a new set of heavy duty springs with a 2" to 3" lift. With the money he would save from not doing a springover, he could get a PTO winch. Being an old school type bloke, this would most likely suit him better than an electric one.
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Post by V8Patrol »

wooooooooo hooooooooooo...... Ive talked him out of the SOA so did this thread...thanks guys :D ... ( I actually refused to do it too !! ).
He is now fitting the 900 x 16's in the bartread style.... similar to the army jobs.

So now back to my original queery.... the clutch.... is a diesel clutch lager in diameter than the petrol one ??????
Also is it heavier duty ?????
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Post by Punchy »

ring checkpoint/ repco
Part numbers and a pysical check will serve you much better than bad advice.
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Post by bundytunna »

yeh ring repco for sure
theyll offer ya all the advice ya need
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Post by 2car »

V8Patrol wrote:wooooooooo hooooooooooo...... Ive talked him out of the SOA so did this thread...thanks guys :D ... ( I actually refused to do it too !! ).
He is now fitting the 900 x 16's in the bartread style.... similar to the army jobs.

So now back to my original queery.... the clutch.... is a diesel clutch lager in diameter than the petrol one ??????
Also is it heavier duty ?????


I used to have a chev 10.5" clutch behind my 307. It was a piece of crap and was not matched to the Toyota hydraulics. I replaced it with a 2f clutch and I coult not be happier.

I had to put the larger chev flywheel on (168 tooth ring) to take the Toyo clutch, which is a little under 11". The Toyota petrol throwout bearing is substantially larger than the diesel and they require different hubs.

If the diesel clutch was any bigger I don't think it would fit inside the bell housing. My guess is that it is the same size.

I noted that Marks use the diesel clutch in their conversions.

I can thouroughly recommend the standard Daikin 2F clutch kit for. Order your motor with the larger flywheel 168T Vs 153T and starter to suit - unless you have something else in mind for the flywheel.

The only problem I can see is that Diesels have different torsional vibration characteristics than petrols and the clutch designers would take this into consideration.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.

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