Bundera Engine Conversion- COMPLETED!!

Post by **Skip** » Wed Sep 03, 2003 10:41 am

Some carby cars still have an electric lift pump, guess your just unlucky then. In that case it maybe be simpler just using a surge tank, for the lift pump, any cheapo low pressure electric carby pump will do the trick. You shouldnt have to pay more than $80-$100.

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 7:16 pm

-just a quick update-

Modified and Welded in the Chassie mounts today. Modified and welded them so they are stronger than the factory ones.

Installed Radiator
Bought a External Fuel Fump out of a VL commodore

Doing the Wiring and Fuel pump tomorrow.

I need some ideas on intercoolers as the one off the supra is too big to be front mounted as there is little space available and is a little big for top mount.

Are there any topmount intercoolers say off a patrol or WRX that would be worth looking at? Bundytime what is your mate doing?

Will post up some more pics soon.

Hope all is well.
Regards,
Nick

Post by **SASS** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 9:32 am

How much did u pay for the half-cut?
And where did u get it from?

CHEERS

SASS :onfire:

Post by **Skip** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 10:50 am

The supra intercooler isnt particularly big, I would have thought you would have heaps of room to mount a descent size intercooler. Whats causing the room problems? maybe you should move the radiator back.

I think you will find most OEM interccolers arent much smaller than the supra one, maybe look at an RX7 one, they are one of the better flowing OEM intercoolers around, and are plentiful.

Post by **robbie** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 11:36 am

get rid of the air con condensor if you have one

my mate with the turbo bundy has a custom made interbooler which is pretty big

Post by **slowhilux** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 1:53 pm

GTI-R Pulsar top mount are a good flowing/efficient OEM top mount, and are quite a bit bigger than the sura and WRX coolers. You can always go water to air, cos the 1st generation 1Gs came factory with water to air i/c...

Phill

Post by **Bundytime** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 4:14 pm

hey nick sounds like its coming along nicely! My mate (as robbie said) has a custom made intercooler mounted infront of the radiator and a 16" thermo instead of the engine fan.

If u can still fit in the original bundy fan shroud then just mount a 16" thermo fan in it, as the hole in it is already 16". This is what i run!!!

Cheers Daniel

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 9:24 pm

As for the air con condenser/radiator thing, its out and wont be going back in untill I get the IC sorted..

Installed fuel pump today and started on the wiring. Should have the wiring almost completed by tomorrow.

Will post up more info and pics tomorrow!

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **robbie** » Mon Sep 08, 2003 10:02 am

dont go for a top mount, go for a front mount.. you will regret it if you go top mount..

if you top mount it, you need to make all the heat shields and all that, and a bonnet scoop, and they never perform as good as a front mount IMHO.

Post by **-Mick-** » Mon Sep 08, 2003 2:07 pm

dont go for a top mount, go for a front mount..

I've never seen a front mount in a 4by. Is it common to do this? Seen top mounts plenty

Post by **Skip** » Mon Sep 08, 2003 2:42 pm

There are a number of reasons why manufacturers top mount intercoolers, usually cause it is a lot simpler in terms of piping. There is no doubt a front mount is a lot more efficient than a top mount. Maybe turbo diesel 4wd intercoolers are always top mounted to reduce the risk of inhaling water during river crosses etc.

Post by **robbie** » Mon Sep 08, 2003 9:06 pm

well it is a petrol motor, and these things like the cooler air..

top mount draws the heat from the engine bay, front mount gets all the cool air, and of course you can run more boost when the air is cooler

Post by **BUNDERA** » Tue Sep 09, 2003 6:50 pm

I am having real dramas with the wiring. :bad-words:

We tried jury rigging it and it doesnt want to crankover.

Slowhilux the wirecolours that you posted up are different to mine which makes it even harder.

Can someone please write up some more details like slowhilux did to try to explain things again.

Slowhilux do you have the wiring diagrams that u used.

Any help or advice would be most appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

Everything is back in and bolted on. Just need to put my 6"lift springs back in once I have finished the wiring. WIRING IS THE ONLY THING LEFT TO DO!!

Post by **suprasurf** » Tue Sep 09, 2003 7:00 pm

you should only need one wire to crank it over ??
run a jump from the starter solenoid to the battery and it should crank !!

getting it to start is another thing.

once you get it cranking you should be able to test for spark

if thats going then you need to sort out the injectors
if there is spark you might find it will kick once but not start, that could be the cold start injector firing but no the main injectors.

things to check are:
is the signal from the coil getting back to the ecu ??
is the resistor pack for the injectors connected ??
if the ecu also ran an auto trans then you need to sort the neutral switch ??
check power on the ecu, coil, injector pack ??
some donks wont start if the temp sensors are disconnected !

a multi-meter is a must, an oscilloscope an awesome diagnostics tool !!

Post by **BUNDERA** » Tue Sep 09, 2003 7:19 pm

Yeah thanks for that supra surf.

It is only one wire to get it to crank but because it goes through thousands of connectors/relays and fuses and shiat it makes it hard to follow.

As I was saying we tried to jury rig it by connecting all the connectors and that but voltage was not getting into some parts of the loom.

I think tomorrow we will wire things directly rather than fart about with this tangle of wires.

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **robbie** » Tue Sep 09, 2003 11:20 pm

just bypass all that shit man

run a 12v wire from battery straight to starter!

Post by **BUNDERA** » Wed Sep 10, 2003 10:32 pm

I got the bastard started today!!!

Sounds absolutly awesome with no exhaust!!

Once I had the airflow meter connected it idled and ran perfectly but then I noticed that one of the oil lines to the front turbo was leaking like a mother fuker.
I stopped the engine and fixed the leak.
Restarted the engine but it now wont idle. If you just touch the accelerator a little, it runs fine but as soon as u back of the pedal it dies in the arse.

Could I have bumped something while fixing the oil line?

What should I be looking for. I cant understand how it was idleing perfectly and now it wont. I only fixed the oil line. :bad-words:

I have checked for vacume leaks and that but everthing looks ok.

Any advice on what to check.

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **MUSS** » Wed Sep 10, 2003 10:36 pm

have tryed restartin it a couple of times???? and checked the connections of the air flow meter...... i recon thats the problem dude

Post by **BUNDERA** » Wed Sep 10, 2003 10:50 pm

the airflow meter is working fine. when i have it disconnected it wont run at all.

hmmm.

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 8:33 pm

All right then.. She is running like a dream. Goes allright!

Idling perfect now.
Powersteer is working a treat.
Alternator is rigged up.
Installed Boost Gage.
Running about 11-12 PSI BOOST.... :cool:

Busted a shockie today but never mind.

Only things that I need to finish off are the water temp guage, oil pressure gage and the tacho. If anyone has info on the wiring for these things it would be greatly appreciated.

Apart from that all i need is the exhaust which is getting installed on Tuesday. Going for 2.5" with an ultraflow muffler.

Thanks must go to everybody who supplied me with information or gave advice to me throughout this conversion.

Will post up the finished pics this week.

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **RUFF** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 8:42 pm

Dont go 2.5 with a muffler you will wish you didnt.

Go 3" with just a resinator it will get on boost faster and will sound sweet at WOT :twisted:

If you do go with a muffler use a Race Magnum.

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:01 pm

it has a 2.25" pipe as standard so I would have thought that a 2.5" would be fine.

Ultraflow no good? I was recommended it that is all.
Why Race Magnum?

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **Surfection** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:14 pm

I agree with ruff, if you're spending the $$$ on a custom exhaust definatly maximise your potential and go the 3 inch. And don't worry about a muffler, a resonator will take the harshness out of the sound but still leave you with mad whistle and awesome sound !!

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:26 pm

so you both think that I should go with a 3" exhaust, no muffler just a resenator..

What about just using 2.5" rather than 3" as it does cost alot more and seeing that it came out as 2.25" I think 2.5" would be suffecient.

As for the sound, it has a great note and whistle at the moment!...spose it would with 30cm of exhaust!!

Is no muffler, no cat with just 1 resinator legal?

Post by **RUFF** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:34 pm

You will need to run a cat to make it legal.
A VL turbo comes stock with a 2.25 exhast that doesnt mean it develops max HP with it. I ran 3" with a gutted Cat and a $40 resinator. This alone gave 2psi more boost and spooled the turbo a lot faster. It also ran a 14.3 quarters apposed to a 15.6 stock. With a few more external engine mods it ran 13.04.

Car manufacturers only install the bare minimum when it comes to exhasts.

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:41 pm

Yeah I know that by putting on a bigger exhaust it should increase the performance over stock.

I did think about going 3" but it was rather $$ if I remember correctly.

So ruff, forgetting the size of the exhaust pipe, you think no muffler, just 1 resenator?

I suppose I will just see what the exhaust shop think and conmpare it to what I think and u guys have recomended.

Cheers,
Nick

Post by **RUFF** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:45 pm

The exhast shop will tell you to fit a muffler because they make more money out of it. Just go the resinator. If you dont like the sound you have only wasted about $40.

Post by **BUNDERA** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 9:55 pm

ok will take a look..

Thanks Ruff.

Post by **robbie** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 11:05 pm

1 resi, 1 straight through cat (run a cat but dont gut it out, run exhaustr through it), 3" mandrel bent exhaust

if they say it will be too loud, tell them pigs ass..

dont let them know about the cat though

Post by **robbie** » Sun Sep 14, 2003 11:08 pm

oh and you might have a problem with the oil pressure guage..

the ones on the bundy dash are weird..

just get some autometer bling bling ones

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Bundera Engine Conversion- COMPLETED!!

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