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RUF conversion Technicalities

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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RUF conversion Technicalities

Post by benhl »

Can anyone tell me:

MUST i have dropped hanggers to do RUF conversion on lux, will this leave enough space for Xover without them?

Could i do Rear springs on std hangars with ext shackles and castor corection wedges with Xover?
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Re: RUF conversion Technicalities

Post by bubs »

benhl wrote:Can anyone tell me:

MUST i have dropped hanggers to do RUF conversion on lux, will this leave enough space for Xover without them?

Could i do Rear springs on std hangars with ext shackles and castor corection wedges with Xover?
No you dont need them, what you are asking is exactly what i have

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Post by hokey »

What exactly is a RUF conversion?
Cheers :oops:
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Post by benhl »

Thanks Bubs - Guess who will be doing the work?? If available... :oops: btw what degree of castor correction r u running?
PS - lookin very sweet...

RUF = Rears Up Front.
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Post by benhl »

Also bubs do i need to run a torque rod with RUF? or just p1zz it off?
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Post by gotoy »

RUF = Rears Up Front

:?: Confused, can someone explain a little more.

TQ.
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Post by just cruizin' »

Using the rear leaf pack up the front gives better flex due to the longer leafs, you must play around with it though removing load springs to get the ride/flex/height just right.

Common in Hiluxs and Sierra.

It will move the diff though so this should be considered and steering will be affected if the diffs moves too much.
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Post by dan_2818 »

If rears were put up front with an extended shackle but hangers at the stock height would steering mods be needed?
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Post by benhl »

i think so but hence the castor correction wedges to bring pinion angle back into line and steering also.
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Post by Sic Lux »

Aren't the diff locating pins further foward? Adj drag link or crossover of some kind would fix this. Feel free to correct me. A friend of mine done this adding in a main wrap and another thick load carrying leave but afta a while it's sagged real bad.
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Post by benhl »

Adj drag link or xover does fix the problem of diff moving fwd although adj drag link doesn't have enough adjustment in it to compensate for the move fwd so usually everyone does xover.

What i'm talking about is the fact that the diff housing with ext shackles and std hangars would be slightly rotated rearwards hence changing pinion angle and also king pin angle (i think) and castor. I think with castor correction wedges in this set up it would normalise the diff and therefore steering positions. :roll:

Comments???
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Post by Sic Lux »

Yeah i have 2in shackles in front with wedges (unknowen degree unfortuatly) and diff is foward but also unknowen how far i think my drop drag link was made to suit and is adj for lock to lock adjustments. the other thing to do is get new mounting brackets and re weld them in correct poss and angles and do it that way but not worth the hassel if you can just put wedges in alot easier to get castor rigth with wedges also.
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Post by coxy321 »

Quick and simple question for the guys that've done the trial/error thing:

-Whats the standard length from pin to pin on hilux shackles?
-I've seen someone on here say that you need 12" ( :shock: ) extended shackles to run an IFS rear and RUF spring setup! That seems a little excessive to me....

I'm looking at doing this on an '85 single cab 2.4D hilux, got the IFS springs, will do a cross over steering when funds allow, but need more correct info on what shackle lengths i should use, and i'll probly just get some Superior caster wedges for the front when it all happens.

Cheers - Coxy
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Post by chunderlicious »

superior shackles front (175mm im pretty sure) and the ifs rear springs need 200mm shackles.

crossover isnt needed but it will screw up your flex and lock it up when folly drooped and will stop alot of turning in one direction, cant remember which but you will need to shorten the draglink. itll also screw your shocks pretty bad, big dents in them from the draglink.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
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Post by coxy321 »

Righto. Thanks for that. Its great that there's such an easy mod like this that gets huge results - just a pity you can't half-ar$e it with the crossover steering side of things. Do you guys buy the gear for the crossover setup, or do some of you fab it up? (sorry for the hijac!)

Cheers - Coxy

PS. that truck looks pretty tuff Bubs!
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Post by sloshy »

Just buy a kit from the states its a hell of alot cheaper either

http://www.trail-gear.com

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com
cheers Dan

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Post by coxy321 »

So there's the one from Trail Gear Inc. for US$399 , and one from Sky Manufacturing for $499. And i assume that the Sky one is US$100 more because they actually supply a used IFS steering box plus a mounting kit?? as opposed to the TG one that is JUST the actual steering kit itself?

Whats all the carry-on about dropped billet pitman arms etc? We wouldn't need these for a simple crossover setup i'd imagine.

So for under US$760 (bout AU$810 , excluding freight ) you can get a crossover kit, U-Bolt flip kit, front shock hoops, greasable 2" extended shackles AND a rear shock hoop crossmember?!! Thats almost rediculous!! To get that from an Aussie retailer it's over $2000!! PLUS add an extra AU$350, and you'd get a set of Bilstein long travel shocks AND new mounts to suit!! I'm not even going to ask why there is so much difference....... thank god the Aussie dollar is so good atm.

So am i on the right track here sloshy??

Cheers - Coxy
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Post by Lux_89 »

i no for a fact that extended front shackles from superior need 3 degree wedges put in,this amount of degree in the wedges is for non dropped x member. all i can help with
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Post by bubs »

The banana shackles I sell for RUF are 125mm centre/centre
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Post by coxy321 »

I had some Superior shackles on one of my MK patrols, and i had to run 3 degree castor wedges in that. But lke i've heard someone else say, you can always put the truck together, then when you take it for the wheel alignment, get them to measure what castor correction you'll need. Thanks for the info guys.

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Post by sloshy »

I'm all for supporting local business but if I can save a buck I will go off shore. Ive saved a heap of coin from buying parts from the US. And in most cases its about half the price of what you would pay here in AUS.
Sadly this is the truth. Everyone is always working to a budget.
I know if I paid top dollar for parts and didn't do all my own work and fabbing I would not be able to afford to be in this sport, with a family to support and a mortgage to be paid.
cheers Dan

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Post by coxy321 »

I work (family business) in electrical retail, and although i cop it all day, having people screw you for price even for a $5 tv connector, the savings with our sort of stuff (comparing like-for-like product of course, not cheap shit with good quality stuff) between the Australian market and the overseas market is absolutely nowhere NEAR the difference in the 4x4 stuff as quoted above. Its almost obsurd. But then i'm comparing Aussie built stuff with Aussie "sold" stuff, spose thats where the difference lies.

And also, I do like buying Aussie stuff, but Jesus, when you're talking almost DOUBLE the price for similar/identical/better quality product - i just can't justify it. Its actually a bit sad really.

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Post by coxy321 »

Do you NEED to run an IFS power steering box, or is these a way of modifying a normal solid axle power steering box to change from a forward-backward motion to the left-right motion needed for a crossover setup??

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Post by bubs »

You need the IFS steering box.
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