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Raising the X-fer case
Raising the X-fer case
Hi All,
I realise this is a pretty common discussion point with sierra's - but i'm ready for a re-cap on things now.
Basically - with the new engine in place it has been suggested that the jackshaft (gearbox to x-fer case connection) looks to be on a bit too steep an angle.
I have also been told that my drive shafts to front and rear diffs are not on very much of an angle. So, the suggestion has been made that we should simply lift the x-fer case up a tax to smooth out the jackshaft angle a bit.
How simple is this going to be? I gather it may just be adding some spacers to the blocks holding the case? Or should we be moving all the arms for the case upwards too?
I also realise that a bash plate under the car is going to work quite nicely too once the x-fer case is up a bit.
Thanks,
Greg
p.s. Chris, put some pics of yours up mate so i can see what you've done.
I realise this is a pretty common discussion point with sierra's - but i'm ready for a re-cap on things now.
Basically - with the new engine in place it has been suggested that the jackshaft (gearbox to x-fer case connection) looks to be on a bit too steep an angle.
I have also been told that my drive shafts to front and rear diffs are not on very much of an angle. So, the suggestion has been made that we should simply lift the x-fer case up a tax to smooth out the jackshaft angle a bit.
How simple is this going to be? I gather it may just be adding some spacers to the blocks holding the case? Or should we be moving all the arms for the case upwards too?
I also realise that a bash plate under the car is going to work quite nicely too once the x-fer case is up a bit.
Thanks,
Greg
p.s. Chris, put some pics of yours up mate so i can see what you've done.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
you could do it with poly spacers but I would personally be more inclined to cut the old mounts off and lift those
i assume you have access to a welder?
www.asianautopartsofaz.com has some nice high angle drive shafts that may be of use to you. if you call them ask for Dave. He's a really nice guy, very helpfull over the phone.
i assume you have access to a welder?
www.asianautopartsofaz.com has some nice high angle drive shafts that may be of use to you. if you call them ask for Dave. He's a really nice guy, very helpfull over the phone.
Skippy
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for all things digital, come to NEWflavour
'a better tasting multimedia experience'
http://www.newflavour.com/
--------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
for all things digital, come to NEWflavour
'a better tasting multimedia experience'
http://www.newflavour.com/
--------------------------------------------------
skippy wrote:you could do it with poly spacers but I would personally be more inclined to cut the old mounts off and lift those
i assume you have access to a welder?
Yes, in so far that i know someone that is a welder, who has a welder
Sounds like a plan - might use spacers to get the correct measurements worked out and then consider lifting up the case properly with the mounts moved as well.
As for the replacement drive shaft - trying to keep everything as "close to stock" as possible so that it could be replaced if something dies...
Current jack shaft is made up of the Jack Shaft from a Coiler sierra (i think about 90mm longer than a 1.3L widetrack sierra jackshaft), with the yoke from a 1L sierra (had the right spline count) - pretty cool really that it all lines up with the Cappo stuff Though my problem is that now i have different uni joints throughout the system (i.e. 1L and 1.3L unis - so it's a bit harder to keep track of)...
Cheers
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
have you thought about combining flanges from other rigs with the suzuki ones?
i've heard of people clearencing a vitara yoke half and combining it with a zook yoke half to get higher operating angles.
you could also use a yota double cardon in the rear and make a small spacer/adaptor to link it to the zook flanges.
i've heard of people clearencing a vitara yoke half and combining it with a zook yoke half to get higher operating angles.
you could also use a yota double cardon in the rear and make a small spacer/adaptor to link it to the zook flanges.
Skippy
--------------------------------------------------
for all things digital, come to NEWflavour
'a better tasting multimedia experience'
http://www.newflavour.com/
--------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
for all things digital, come to NEWflavour
'a better tasting multimedia experience'
http://www.newflavour.com/
--------------------------------------------------
Re: Raising the X-fer case
greg wrote: Chris, put some pics of yours up mate so i can see what you've done.
I just used sierra engine mounts, in place of the standard t-case mounts, they were 2omm thicker, and moved case back 10mm, cause threads are offset. there is many after market mounts, one must suit your need, or just use a welded on spacer like Joey's, then use noprmal mounts. joey drilled a larger hole, so he could get socket to the original bolts on mount. with all your gearing, torque will be high, so stronger mountings probly best idea. will take pix morrow, if get a chance, christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
Re: Raising the X-fer case
christover1 wrote:greg wrote: Chris, put some pics of yours up mate so i can see what you've done.
I just used sierra engine mounts, in place of the standard t-case mounts, they were 2omm thicker, and moved case back 10mm, cause threads are offset. there is many after market mounts, one must suit your need, or just use a welded on spacer like Joey's, then use noprmal mounts. joey drilled a larger hole, so he could get socket to the original bolts on mount. with all your gearing, torque will be high, so stronger mountings probly best idea. will take pix morrow, if get a chance, christover
How has it worked out Chris - high enough to get a bash plate under their for a bit of protection?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
I intend to give my xfer a bit of a lift to get the whole thing up above the bottom of the chassis rails
I want to mod the rear mount on the drivers side so that it leaves the bottom of the chassis flush instead of leaving that daggy rock-magnet hanging down
I was thinking of just spacing the xfer up 50mm with some box section to start with to see what the clearance, u-joint angles etc were like. My 2" bodylift makes this a bit easier...
I want to mod the rear mount on the drivers side so that it leaves the bottom of the chassis flush instead of leaving that daggy rock-magnet hanging down
I was thinking of just spacing the xfer up 50mm with some box section to start with to see what the clearance, u-joint angles etc were like. My 2" bodylift makes this a bit easier...
with one litre cross members can only get 25mm max lift, as cross member runs between the jack-shaft and the front tail-shaft. 1.3 set-up the member goes under everything, so 50mm can be done, but watch the angles, as you said.
greg, there is still some hand-brake drum hanging just below chassis, best I could do, but I think it will help, tho I think a full 50mm lift on a standard set-up, would put drive angles in a bad possy. a bash plate is still possible, but see if we need it, first. christover
greg, there is still some hand-brake drum hanging just below chassis, best I could do, but I think it will help, tho I think a full 50mm lift on a standard set-up, would put drive angles in a bad possy. a bash plate is still possible, but see if we need it, first. christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
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