Wheel bearing and CV boot service

[flylux]

Hi guys,
I recently bought an 02 dual cab triton 2.8 td
In the next couple of days i'm going to replace the front wheel bearings and cv boots. Ive got the parts ready to go. Just wondering if theres any special tools needed for this job?
Ive done front wheel bearings in a beam axle lux before, but this looks a bit more complicated, and I cant seem to buy an extended manual for the triton.

Any tips appreciated.

[glenn_c]

http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/2125309 and
http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/inner_cv/

[flylux]

Thanks for that.
I'll have to get myself a balljoint seperator.

[klrevo]

or a hammer does the same thing....two hammers even better

dean

[flylux]

Cool, save a few bucks

[klrevo]

my theory too, yeh tap the two hammers from the side of the ballboints. If theyre still not loose, a little herder and so forth. If your going to hit directly down from the top (not recommended, from experience), do so with the nut still on so as to not round the thread off, makes it ahrd trying to lift 30kg of hub with your knees and put a nut on a rounded bolt with the nut on though, you still gotta be careful not to flatten the peaks on the nut otherwise you wont get it off. Easier to not whack from the top. Go from the sides, one hammer will do it, two hammers, one from each side at the same time requires heaps less force.

dean

[flylux]

ok, i'll give it a shot tomorrow I reckon. I've got a day off.

[-Scott-]

Thanks for that.
I'll have to get myself a balljoint seperator.

The simple fork-type separator will probably fark the boot, and you'll need to replace it (at least the boot, if not the joint.)

And I suggest turning the nut over before going ballistic with the hammer - the castelations will deform pretty easily, making it harder to put back together.

Good luck,

Scott

[klrevo]

Thanks for that.
I'll have to get myself a balljoint seperator.

The simple fork-type separator will probably fark the boot, and you'll need to replace it (at least the boot, if not the joint.)

And I suggest turning the nut over before going ballistic with the hammer - the castelations will deform pretty easily, making it harder to put back together.

Good luck,

Scott

yeh thats what i was trying to say.... peaks, castelations, its all the same

dean

[flylux]

Ok I got the tie rod off ok, but i can't get the ball joints apart, so i'm gona have to buy a puller.
One question though, what do I have to do to get the silver part of the hub off? I've just taken the locking mechanism off and the cir clip, but the rest wont slide off.
Here's a pic of where im up to.
http://www.unicyclist.com/index.php?pag ... mId=289817

The lux was easier!

[Noisey]

Try harder.

You have undone all the bolts by the look of it and it is able to rotate independently to the disk so it should just slide off.

Try putting two flat head screwdivers on opposite sides of the "silver part" (as you put it) between the hub and gently pry one then the other. This should push it forward.

You will probably find once it is off that there is a bit of rust or dirt on the shaft. Use a wire brush to clean and apply grease before putting it back together.

[flylux]

Ok my bad, there was a thin little washer behind the cir clip, and it was stuck in the groove, holding the silver bit on. I was just too blind to see it.
What's the silver bit called anyway? It's half of the locking hub isn't it.

[Noisey]

"Free Wheeling Hub Body"

[flylux]

Nice

[flylux]

Just a bit of an update on this little job.

After one broken clamp type balljoint seperator and one custom modified (with the grinder) fork type seperator being flogged with a lump hammer I've managed to seperate the ball joints and fark the boots on one side.

As for the other side, I loosened the nuts on the balljoints and the top joint came apart with a crack sound while I wasn't looking (woops forgot to jack suspension arm up first). The bottom one took a long hard flogging with the trusty lump hammer (hitting the side and top of the ring that goes over the tapered bolt) and finally came apart. This method saved the boots on this side.

New boots were difficult to find, but for future reference, I managed to order some from Driveline Services Australia (Phone 4949 1500) in Newcaslte.
____________
Edit: I never actually got hold of rubber boots for the ball joints, but recently had all balljoints replaced. Ouch...pricey!