Hey guys
well im about to start my 2 inch body lift on my 91 siera.
the kit im goin to get is the http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... category=5
i havent ordered this yet. so if any of u think there is soemthing wrong with it PLEASE tell me.
as i coudnt find much info on the process, from what i have read here are the steps im goin to try to go along.
- check inside the engine bay for any cable/hose that might be to short for the lift.
- check brake lines for lengh ( how much extra does it need ? should they be tight ? will they piss fluid all over me when i unplug it ? do i need to re bleed them if i need to replace ?)
- chuck a jack under one side and lift
- slide blocks under without bolts.
- place new bolts in without nuts
- repleat on other side
- place all new bolts in
- check gear stick movment
- tighten all bolts
any ideas or something im missing ????
im sure its kinda wrong but i really wanna learn about this stuff as its highly rewarding to me. any help would be great. Cheers again guys.
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Body lift prep
undo fuel filler hose behind a cover in the rear of your zook. Undo 2 bolts that hold brake line bracket located inside front right wheel well.U dont need to disconnect your lines. Also make sure wiring for spot lights, airial etc etc long enough when u jack it up.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
I'm not 100% sure but arent all body lifts illegal unless engineered ?
I've never done one on a zuk so can't comment on the process but mine has it listed on the engineers certificate so i'm assuming you would need to do this.
Thats is if you want it done right.
Someone else should be able to confirm or deny this for you.
Cheers Nick
I've never done one on a zuk so can't comment on the process but mine has it listed on the engineers certificate so i'm assuming you would need to do this.
Thats is if you want it done right.
Someone else should be able to confirm or deny this for you.
Cheers Nick
sounds alright, have a search, there's heaps of threads with body lift tech... check out the bible at the top of the zook forum too.
you'll have to either space the steering (easily done at the rag joint) or loosen it and let the shaft slip to suit the bodylift. most likely you'll have to hammer at the transfer case hole in the floor to get it to hold in low...
btw, despite superior saying it's 100% street legal i'm fairly sure the only way it's legal is to get it engineered... which means brake testing laden and unladen, to failure, on all four wheels. least that's what my local engineer told me...
you'll have to either space the steering (easily done at the rag joint) or loosen it and let the shaft slip to suit the bodylift. most likely you'll have to hammer at the transfer case hole in the floor to get it to hold in low...
btw, despite superior saying it's 100% street legal i'm fairly sure the only way it's legal is to get it engineered... which means brake testing laden and unladen, to failure, on all four wheels. least that's what my local engineer told me...
___,,,,_('o')_,,,,____
part of the newy conspiracy...
part of the newy conspiracy...
thanks guys i had read that u may need to widen the gear stick whole a little some of them u don't.
as for the illegality i haven`t herd a thing about it. haven`t even thaught about it to be truthful . do u guys think i should take it down my local mechanic and let him do it for a couple of hundred $. i have no problem with that but i do think it would be a nice project for me and would brawden my knowledge of my car at the same time.
as for the illegality i haven`t herd a thing about it. haven`t even thaught about it to be truthful . do u guys think i should take it down my local mechanic and let him do it for a couple of hundred $. i have no problem with that but i do think it would be a nice project for me and would brawden my knowledge of my car at the same time.
Mate get stuck into it yourself. I did my lift with no prior experience and i got itt done in 8 hrs by myself. Just be patient and make sure you have as many of the parts that u need with u and u will get it done even quicker.
It definately gives u a sence of achievement that you did the work when u step back and take a look at your higher tire clearance.
It definately gives u a sence of achievement that you did the work when u step back and take a look at your higher tire clearance.
Hardcore Wheelin' www.ozwheelers.net
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
- 94 Zuki - Lux diffs, SPOA, twin locked, 35's, 1.5" wheel spacers, exo, series 4 rockhoppers
thanks buddy i would love to. im not really worried about insurance as its only my stuff around car.
but i would like to be able to sell it with a roadworthy when i decided to buy something else down the track . whats the rules with this ?? can i do the work then just get it checked my my local mechanic ?
but i would like to be able to sell it with a roadworthy when i decided to buy something else down the track . whats the rules with this ?? can i do the work then just get it checked my my local mechanic ?
On the underside of the body there is a splash guard that protects the fuel filler hose leading to the tank this is bolted to both the body and chassis, take out the bolt holding it to the body and throw the bolt over your left shoulder ( left not right) you don't need it.
Last edited by just cruizin' on Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I reckon ud be worried if you ever hit and killed someone and were up for a payout of a million bucks coz ur insurance wont cover you...get it done right....get it engineered or whatever you have to do in Vic.vicelore wrote:thanks buddy i would love to. im not really worried about insurance as its only my stuff around car.
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
in sa you can go to 2" tops with out engineer they dont even need to see it, this is what ONE of them at transport sa said, but who knows what they would say tomorrow 
Also if you do go to the engineer you hade better make it more than a body lift for the effort like a lexus v8 with 80 series diffs and extend it enogh to fit 8 people other wise the 600 bucks wont seem worth it.
Also if you do go to the engineer you hade better make it more than a body lift for the effort like a lexus v8 with 80 series diffs and extend it enogh to fit 8 people other wise the 600 bucks wont seem worth it.
well i spoke to the guys at ARB they said they wont do them as they doo need a enginerrs cert in VIC , he also said bigger wheels can too. so i think im goin to do it myself and then when the cars got all the enginerred compontents installed ill take it in and get one.
i had read this artical about installing the 2" lift sounds fairly challanging.
anyone done one and can comment on what he has wrote. cheers guys
" 2" Body Lift
Nov 1, 2005
By: ORC STAFF
Suzuki/Geo at Off-Road.com
Glenn Wakefield sends the following about doing a home-made 2" body lift on his Samurai:
Regarding the 2" homemade body lift I put on; it was a pain in the butt. They?re supposed to be easier than a suspension lift. But I threw my suspension lift on in half the time it took to do this. The 3" body lifts they sell prepackaged might've gone quicker, but?I didn't want that much elevation and the problems that went with it. By staying with only 2" of body lift I was able to cut some costs, say it was homemade (thus boosting my credibility) and avoid some problems.
Getting Started
Although, the steering geometry changes with 2", the changes are not as drastic as must be with a 3" lift. I'll get into that later. Also, I foresee big problems with the shifting levers if one was to go 3". 2" was doable (biggie size pain in the ass), but any more than that could be trouble (super biggie size).
The first thing to do when installing a homemade lift is make sure you have a spare vehicle to get you to the hardware store, just in case.
Disconnect your different brake line brackets. The parking brake mounting bracket is in the middle of the rear bed, underneath. Disconnect and let it hang, baby. The regular brake lines are mounted on a dual bracket on the passenger side by the battery, unscrew and let hang also. Watch for tight electrical wires (oxygen sensor, etc.). Disconnect your steering column near the u-joint and at the rubber coupler and remove. Disconnect the top of your fuel filler hose, accessed by going inside the protective cover inside the bed. Finally, there are a couple of 1" coolant hoses which go into your firewall. These may have enough ?give? to not need to be dealt with. Beware, mine popped off and I had to race for something to hold the flowing coolant!
The Lift
Start by removing all of the body mount bolts. There are two by the radiator, two under the front and two under the rear of the doors, two in the middle of the rear bed, and two above the rear bumper. When it comes time to start jacking, I found it best to work with one side at a time. Jack one side of the body off of the frame and support it well (you don't want to lose a hand or fingers if it falls back to the frame). I placed jack stands on top of the tires which held the body up by the wheel wells. Make a couple of trips around the vehicle when jacking it up to make sure nothing is being stretched, tweaked, or broken.
Enter the homemade lift. I used 2" O.D. square tubing cut into 2" long sections; cost: about $5.00. I used new grade 8 bolts, 5/16 x 2 1/2 (get some shorter ones too: 1 1/4" for the front and rears), washers and Nylock nuts; cost: about $6.00. This is really all you ?need? to do the lift. Total cost: about $11.00. I bought all new mount bushings from Suzuki since mine were cracked and old; cost: about $50.00. Even if you do a 3" kit, you probably still ought to get new bushings.
Drill your holes straight thru the 2" blocks. The top hole will have to be big enough to fit the head of the 5/16 bolts. You will have to cut the existing studs down. (A way to avoid this hassle is to completely remove the existing studs and install new longer ones). Do one side of the vehicle, then move to the other after having lowered the first side. If you raise the whole thing at once, there is the risk of the body falling sideways, a very bad thing. Keep the square pads you find at contact points around the body. They can be used as shims later. I had to use them on the very front mounts.
Halfway There
After the lift is installed and secure you may think you're done?you are halfway. You must still deal with the repercussions.
Steering Column
Big fun. First drill out, on both sides, the small white plastic pegs on the slip yoke. Then you'll need to put a torch on that portion of the column for a few minutes and let the glue cook itself out. After all of the glue has bubbled out of the holes you drilled, a couple raps with the sledge should allow you to slide the length to a custom fit. I didn?t like the angle change with 2" so it must be really severe with 3". Don't refill the holes with screws unless you want to eat the steering wheel in a collision. I left mine as is and it works fine.
Shifters
Now you get to deal with the shifters. You?ll notice you can?t get it into four low, which is OK, unless you feel you need four low to have fun ?wheeling.? Solve this by cutting the floor of your vehicle on the top side the hump by the transfer case lever. With the rubber boot reinstalled you should be able to get into four low after the cutting. The tranny lever hole needs to be moved to a lower position too. I just repositioned the whole boot and plate assembly about an inch lower on the hump. Everything shifts fine now but you notice a height difference when you drive (this must be worse with a 3" lift). The shifting levers are a potential major drawback of the 3" lift. Have fun trying to get the shifters working normally if you go three inches. Not bloody likely!
Bumpers
Typically both bumpers are a problem with a body lift. The rear is attached to the body so it isn't a problem. The front will have to be moved up. You should plan on fabricating some homemade brackets to lift the front.
Other Items
With a 2" lift the stock fuel filler hose will still work (cost savings). Just slide the hose down close to the end of the metal spout on top and you should make it. The parking brake mount bracket should be lowered. I used a couple of spare 2" blocks to shim it down. The dual brake bracket needs to be remounted. Drill new holes at an appropriately lower position. Reattach the coolant hoses, they should reach with the 2" lift (another cost savings).
On the Sami you don't have to worry about the fan shroud since the radiator and fan are mounted to the body not the frame. I didn't have any problem with the clutch linkage with the 2" lift. You go 3"?maybe trouble, I just don't know. Also, consider a custom wheel well spacer to protect the engine compartment from increased vulnerability to road schmutz, plus it'll just look prettier.
We're Done!
It took me a day to do my homemade lift. The prepackaged one would be quicker on the install but slower on the problem solving. Even though doing it homemade is a hassle, I just see too many potential problems with a 3" body lift. If anyone is thinking of doing a lift like this (good luck) and would like to correspond, feel free to email me. Also, don't hold me responsible if my periodic senility affected how I recall doing this installation.
I can throw my ?training wheels? away now?I got 33s !!!
The Final Results
++++++++++++
i had read this artical about installing the 2" lift sounds fairly challanging.
anyone done one and can comment on what he has wrote. cheers guys
" 2" Body Lift
Nov 1, 2005
By: ORC STAFF
Suzuki/Geo at Off-Road.com
Glenn Wakefield sends the following about doing a home-made 2" body lift on his Samurai:
Regarding the 2" homemade body lift I put on; it was a pain in the butt. They?re supposed to be easier than a suspension lift. But I threw my suspension lift on in half the time it took to do this. The 3" body lifts they sell prepackaged might've gone quicker, but?I didn't want that much elevation and the problems that went with it. By staying with only 2" of body lift I was able to cut some costs, say it was homemade (thus boosting my credibility) and avoid some problems.
Getting Started
Although, the steering geometry changes with 2", the changes are not as drastic as must be with a 3" lift. I'll get into that later. Also, I foresee big problems with the shifting levers if one was to go 3". 2" was doable (biggie size pain in the ass), but any more than that could be trouble (super biggie size).
The first thing to do when installing a homemade lift is make sure you have a spare vehicle to get you to the hardware store, just in case.
Disconnect your different brake line brackets. The parking brake mounting bracket is in the middle of the rear bed, underneath. Disconnect and let it hang, baby. The regular brake lines are mounted on a dual bracket on the passenger side by the battery, unscrew and let hang also. Watch for tight electrical wires (oxygen sensor, etc.). Disconnect your steering column near the u-joint and at the rubber coupler and remove. Disconnect the top of your fuel filler hose, accessed by going inside the protective cover inside the bed. Finally, there are a couple of 1" coolant hoses which go into your firewall. These may have enough ?give? to not need to be dealt with. Beware, mine popped off and I had to race for something to hold the flowing coolant!
The Lift
Start by removing all of the body mount bolts. There are two by the radiator, two under the front and two under the rear of the doors, two in the middle of the rear bed, and two above the rear bumper. When it comes time to start jacking, I found it best to work with one side at a time. Jack one side of the body off of the frame and support it well (you don't want to lose a hand or fingers if it falls back to the frame). I placed jack stands on top of the tires which held the body up by the wheel wells. Make a couple of trips around the vehicle when jacking it up to make sure nothing is being stretched, tweaked, or broken.
Enter the homemade lift. I used 2" O.D. square tubing cut into 2" long sections; cost: about $5.00. I used new grade 8 bolts, 5/16 x 2 1/2 (get some shorter ones too: 1 1/4" for the front and rears), washers and Nylock nuts; cost: about $6.00. This is really all you ?need? to do the lift. Total cost: about $11.00. I bought all new mount bushings from Suzuki since mine were cracked and old; cost: about $50.00. Even if you do a 3" kit, you probably still ought to get new bushings.
Drill your holes straight thru the 2" blocks. The top hole will have to be big enough to fit the head of the 5/16 bolts. You will have to cut the existing studs down. (A way to avoid this hassle is to completely remove the existing studs and install new longer ones). Do one side of the vehicle, then move to the other after having lowered the first side. If you raise the whole thing at once, there is the risk of the body falling sideways, a very bad thing. Keep the square pads you find at contact points around the body. They can be used as shims later. I had to use them on the very front mounts.
Halfway There
After the lift is installed and secure you may think you're done?you are halfway. You must still deal with the repercussions.
Steering Column
Big fun. First drill out, on both sides, the small white plastic pegs on the slip yoke. Then you'll need to put a torch on that portion of the column for a few minutes and let the glue cook itself out. After all of the glue has bubbled out of the holes you drilled, a couple raps with the sledge should allow you to slide the length to a custom fit. I didn?t like the angle change with 2" so it must be really severe with 3". Don't refill the holes with screws unless you want to eat the steering wheel in a collision. I left mine as is and it works fine.
Shifters
Now you get to deal with the shifters. You?ll notice you can?t get it into four low, which is OK, unless you feel you need four low to have fun ?wheeling.? Solve this by cutting the floor of your vehicle on the top side the hump by the transfer case lever. With the rubber boot reinstalled you should be able to get into four low after the cutting. The tranny lever hole needs to be moved to a lower position too. I just repositioned the whole boot and plate assembly about an inch lower on the hump. Everything shifts fine now but you notice a height difference when you drive (this must be worse with a 3" lift). The shifting levers are a potential major drawback of the 3" lift. Have fun trying to get the shifters working normally if you go three inches. Not bloody likely!
Bumpers
Typically both bumpers are a problem with a body lift. The rear is attached to the body so it isn't a problem. The front will have to be moved up. You should plan on fabricating some homemade brackets to lift the front.
Other Items
With a 2" lift the stock fuel filler hose will still work (cost savings). Just slide the hose down close to the end of the metal spout on top and you should make it. The parking brake mount bracket should be lowered. I used a couple of spare 2" blocks to shim it down. The dual brake bracket needs to be remounted. Drill new holes at an appropriately lower position. Reattach the coolant hoses, they should reach with the 2" lift (another cost savings).
On the Sami you don't have to worry about the fan shroud since the radiator and fan are mounted to the body not the frame. I didn't have any problem with the clutch linkage with the 2" lift. You go 3"?maybe trouble, I just don't know. Also, consider a custom wheel well spacer to protect the engine compartment from increased vulnerability to road schmutz, plus it'll just look prettier.
We're Done!
It took me a day to do my homemade lift. The prepackaged one would be quicker on the install but slower on the problem solving. Even though doing it homemade is a hassle, I just see too many potential problems with a 3" body lift. If anyone is thinking of doing a lift like this (good luck) and would like to correspond, feel free to email me. Also, don't hold me responsible if my periodic senility affected how I recall doing this installation.
I can throw my ?training wheels? away now?I got 33s !!!
The Final Results
++++++++++++
yea i found it a good read . the part im concerned about is the steering colum not to sure what hes goin on about down there . spose ill have to figure it out when i get to it.
lol get ready for some stupid questions and lots of pics outerlimits lol.
i ordered that kit tonight BTW guys . so ill porb be starting on it Mon night
lol get ready for some stupid questions and lots of pics outerlimits lol.
i ordered that kit tonight BTW guys . so ill porb be starting on it Mon night
Given you're only going 2" there should be enough flex in the rag joint near the steering box. I drove mine for a while before I put a spacer in, get either another rag joint or Bruce on www.nbs4x4club.com/forum makes poly (I think) ones for about $25, PITA to install though.
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