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Help with a 2F.

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 810
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Help with a 2F.

Post by brighty »

OK, I have a 2F sitting in an old rusted out 60 series. What I wanted to do was, pull it out and throw it into my sprung over 60 which is still in reasonable nic.

I have no problem doing the transplant, just need to get the motor running a bit smoother... it runs like a pig now and I'm used to working on diesels, where do I start???

It is hooked up to gas however the guy I bought it from said that it doesn't work and only runs on Petrol. If I can get it going well enough without spending toooo much $$$ is it worth getting the gas system to work????

Can anyone give me some pointers on what to look for or where to start??

Cheers
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by RAY185 »

First things first. Pull the plugs and do a compression test. Post up your results and we can go from there. If compression is ok it will hopefully be as simple as replacing points, condensor, plugs and resetting timing to get it running sweet. Also a good carby clean out does wonders.
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Post by brighty »

will have alook a the compression next week i guess.... got to get hold of a tester first...

What are your thoughts on trying to get it going on gas again if all goes well. remember that the previous owner said it didn't work on gas....
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by plowy »

before doing a compression test adjust the valves first
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Post by muddy12 »

ditto on the valves - if they're a bit tight, you'll get a misleading low compression. LPG is a really simple system - it may need a clean-out of the regulator cos it gets a wax build-up, but other than that, it should be just a matter of making sure there are no vacum leaks.
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Post by brighty »

am going to try and get some time on it this weekend.

Sooooo, can someone post up the valve clearances for me??? And i presume this is measured whilst still warm/hot???

Cheers.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by muddy12 »

.008in inlet, .014in exhaust Some good tips here:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html
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Post by brighty »

muddy12 wrote:.008in inlet, .014in exhaust Some good tips here:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html
While I'm at it, got any on adjusting fuel mixtures??? Remember, I usually work on deisels so forgive me. ;)
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by muddy12 »

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Post by iwanahuma »

ive got a complete running 2F here really cheap, all in perfect order, just putting a V8 in, you can even test drive it if you're quick... :cool:
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Post by iwanahuma »

it would save doing all that work!
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Post by brighty »

iwanahuma wrote:it would save doing all that work!
Thanks, but I don't mind the work..... and I need to save the $$$
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by brighty »

OK, I now got it running.... just got to adjust the valves.

Can someone tell me which ones are the inlet and which are the exhaust so I can adjust to the correct clearances??

Cheers.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by muddy12 »

Just look at the manifold & you can tell which valves go to which manifold.

I'm pretty sure the sequence is:
E I I E E I I E E I I E
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Post by brighty »

OK, valves are adjusted and compression test done....

Here is what I got:

Cylinder 1: 150psi
Cylinder 2: 140psi
Cylinder 3: 145psi
Cylinder 4: 140psi
Cylinder 5: 150psi
Cylinder 6: 155psi

Sooo, is this good, bad or other???? If it's good, where do I start going from there to fix things up and get her running smoother. I was intending on new plugs, leads, dizzy cap, points, rotor button??, and maybe a new coil. Are these the things I should look at first???

Once I get it running nicely, I'll rip it out and put it into the other SPOA rig. On another note..... are there any mods need to be done to to an HJ model to fit my 2F into it, think I heard something about the G'box needs to be moved forward/backwards????

Cheers,
Brighty.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Posts: 810
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 8:02 am
Location: Somewhere in NSW

Post by brighty »

brighty wrote:OK, valves are adjusted and compression test done....

Here is what I got:

Cylinder 1: 150psi
Cylinder 2: 140psi
Cylinder 3: 145psi
Cylinder 4: 140psi
Cylinder 5: 150psi
Cylinder 6: 155psi

Sooo, is this good, bad or other???? If it's good, where do I start going from there to fix things up and get her running smoother. I was intending on new plugs, leads, dizzy cap, points, rotor button??, and maybe a new coil. Are these the things I should look at first???

Once I get it running nicely, I'll rip it out and put it into the other SPOA rig. On another note..... are there any mods need to be done to to an HJ model to fit my 2F into it, think I heard something about the G'box needs to be moved forward/backwards????

Cheers,
Brighty.

ANYONE???? ADVICE PLZZZZZZ :?
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Location: Blenheim, NZ

Post by muddy12 »

Toyota reckon the minimum acceptable compression is 105 - from what I gather - anything above 120 is OK, with around 5% variation so your numbers look pretty good. I'm getting around 160 with new rings & reconditioned head...

You could spend a lot on ignition thats unnecessary if you just replace everything. Vacum leaks can cause pretty rough running & they're usually easy & cheap to fix.

I'd suggest posting your symptoms on the forum at
http://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=8

There's some real gurus on that forum who have given me heaps of good advice. You may have to filter out some of it because they have emission systems, but so long as you specify you don't - they'll still have the knowledge to tell you what you want to know.

Make sure you do a search on tuning first so that at least you can nail the obvious stuff before asking for detailed help.

Cheers
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Post by v840 »

muddy12 wrote:Toyota reckon the minimum acceptable compression is 105 - from what I gather - anything above 120 is OK, with around 5% variation so your numbers look pretty good. I'm getting around 160 with new rings & reconditioned head...

You could spend a lot on ignition thats unnecessary if you just replace everything. Vacum leaks can cause pretty rough running & they're usually easy & cheap to fix.

I'd suggest posting your symptoms on the forum at
http://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=8

There's some real gurus on that forum who have given me heaps of good advice. You may have to filter out some of it because they have emission systems, but so long as you specify you don't - they'll still have the knowledge to tell you what you want to know.

Make sure you do a search on tuning first so that at least you can nail the obvious stuff before asking for detailed help.

Cheers
What he said.
ih8mud.com have some very knowlegable guys who generally dont mind lobbing in with help as long as the qustions arent too noob.

Your compression is good also so I wouldnt worry about that. Id be checking for vacuum leaks in the inlet before spending $$$ on the ignition system and also having a play with the gas mixer. Then going from there.
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Posts: 810
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 8:02 am
Location: Somewhere in NSW

Post by brighty »

v840 wrote:
muddy12 wrote:Toyota reckon the minimum acceptable compression is 105 - from what I gather - anything above 120 is OK, with around 5% variation so your numbers look pretty good. I'm getting around 160 with new rings & reconditioned head...

You could spend a lot on ignition thats unnecessary if you just replace everything. Vacum leaks can cause pretty rough running & they're usually easy & cheap to fix.

I'd suggest posting your symptoms on the forum at
http://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=8

There's some real gurus on that forum who have given me heaps of good advice. You may have to filter out some of it because they have emission systems, but so long as you specify you don't - they'll still have the knowledge to tell you what you want to know.

Make sure you do a search on tuning first so that at least you can nail the obvious stuff before asking for detailed help.

Cheers
What he said.
ih8mud.com have some very knowlegable guys who generally dont mind lobbing in with help as long as the qustions arent too noob.

Your compression is good also so I wouldnt worry about that. Id be checking for vacuum leaks in the inlet before spending $$$ on the ignition system and also having a play with the gas mixer. Then going from there.
OK, I've finally had a chance to have another go at it.

Firstly.... I've found that the miss firing is coming from an inlet leak(hose not connected) but have no idea where the bloody hell it goes.At the moment I've just got it plugged and is running fine, but surely it's gotta go somewhere. It is at the cyl 5/6 inlet.

I guess I disconnected something at some stage and have no clue where it goes, so if one of you guys out there with a 2F could have a look at this pic and tell me where to hook it up to.

Secondly.... I am getting a back fire into the aircleaner when it's running on Petrol(hasn't done it on gas), but only seems to do it when idling them giving it a squirt to pick the revs up it backfires into the aircleaner. What could be the problem there???? Fuel too rich maybe???

Image
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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Post by pcman »

that hose goes to the brake booster

no idea on the petrol issue i cant afford to run mine on petrol even for 1km so im straight lpg
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Post by brighty »

pcman wrote:that hose goes to the brake booster

no idea on the petrol issue i cant afford to run mine on petrol even for 1km so im straight lpg
Ahhhh that would be why.... I pulled the brake booster off a few months back.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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