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4wd systems Lokka Diff Lock
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
4wd systems Lokka Diff Lock
Has anyone fitted one of these products?
If so how have you found the preformance?
I'm looking at fitting it to the front of a 92 Surf with auto locking hubs, another post I read said you also had to fit a manual hub kit.
If so how have you found the preformance?
I'm looking at fitting it to the front of a 92 Surf with auto locking hubs, another post I read said you also had to fit a manual hub kit.
Been interested with anyone with real world experiences as opposed to the "auto lockers are sh1t buy an AIRLOCKER crowd".
The couple of people WHO HAVE ACTUALLY DONE IT I've heard from were all positive - less impact on steering than a lockright, less violent reaction when power is applied.
Still, more examples would be good... spend your money and tell us.
The couple of people WHO HAVE ACTUALLY DONE IT I've heard from were all positive - less impact on steering than a lockright, less violent reaction when power is applied.
Still, more examples would be good... spend your money and tell us.
Ok, I'll give you a real-world experience on the 4wd lokka.
I used to have a suzuki sierra wide track with spoa and 31's.
I installed the lokka's on both ends. Note: 4wd systems no longer sell suzuki sierra lokka's as far as I know and have seen in their adverts.
I was probabaly one of the last to have them. In the front, with the part time activation of the diff it was fantastic. Made the steering harder but the climbing ability was amazing. You could crawl up anything and lift a wheel without affecting the momentum. I would definitely say if you have a part time 4wd its okay to have one in the front. Power steering would help, but apart from that its great.
The rear in another issue. On road the manners of the lokka are manageable but you need to drive accordingly. In car parks everyone will stare at you as they CLICK (not the capitals to emphasize the NOISE). When you change gears you almost change lanes. You wear out more rear tyres as they are running locked the majority of the time. When they unlock they are uncomfortable. I can only speak from short wheel base experience. Long wheel base is supposed to be better. You need to take the centre out every so often (every six months) to re-shim it. I did break the pins and apparently its common. You basically have to make new shims up every time you pull it apart. After two years I took the thing out and gave up on it. Sent it back to 4wd systems adelaide. After examination of the centre, they decided to stop selling them for sierra's and gave me a credit on the cost so I bought stuff for my cruiser a few months later. In the rear I would say save your pennies and get an air locker. Don't make the mistake I made. I thought getting two at the special price was a great deal and thats why I did it. In the end I sold the sierra with a standard rear and lokka front. Only probably the new owner had was a hublock wouldn't engage, giving him 3wd, but he easily fixed it and as far as I know the lokka is still in the front.
Hope this helps.
I used to have a suzuki sierra wide track with spoa and 31's.
I installed the lokka's on both ends. Note: 4wd systems no longer sell suzuki sierra lokka's as far as I know and have seen in their adverts.
I was probabaly one of the last to have them. In the front, with the part time activation of the diff it was fantastic. Made the steering harder but the climbing ability was amazing. You could crawl up anything and lift a wheel without affecting the momentum. I would definitely say if you have a part time 4wd its okay to have one in the front. Power steering would help, but apart from that its great.
The rear in another issue. On road the manners of the lokka are manageable but you need to drive accordingly. In car parks everyone will stare at you as they CLICK (not the capitals to emphasize the NOISE). When you change gears you almost change lanes. You wear out more rear tyres as they are running locked the majority of the time. When they unlock they are uncomfortable. I can only speak from short wheel base experience. Long wheel base is supposed to be better. You need to take the centre out every so often (every six months) to re-shim it. I did break the pins and apparently its common. You basically have to make new shims up every time you pull it apart. After two years I took the thing out and gave up on it. Sent it back to 4wd systems adelaide. After examination of the centre, they decided to stop selling them for sierra's and gave me a credit on the cost so I bought stuff for my cruiser a few months later. In the rear I would say save your pennies and get an air locker. Don't make the mistake I made. I thought getting two at the special price was a great deal and thats why I did it. In the end I sold the sierra with a standard rear and lokka front. Only probably the new owner had was a hublock wouldn't engage, giving him 3wd, but he easily fixed it and as far as I know the lokka is still in the front.
Hope this helps.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
Interesting experience with the Sierra. I wonder if the problem was lack of weight over the rear wheels, so the "road driven wheel" didn't have sufficient traction to cause the mechanism to unlock, and caused tyre slip instead?
I'd be interested to hear stories from owners of larger and heavier vehicles - see if there's any difference in performance.
Scott
I'd be interested to hear stories from owners of larger and heavier vehicles - see if there's any difference in performance.
Scott
I run the them front and rear in my Surf, the symtoms that toy80diesel do definatly exist but with the surf they have minimal effect, the changing lanes thing does not happen with my vehicle but the noisy CLICKING does when turning into driveways, carpearks etc. but you get used to that.
As for reshimming I have never touched mine (not even shimmed when first installed) and its been in the rear for two years and was daily driven up until the last 6 months. I have never broken pins either (front or rear) have broken an AVM hub on the front though.
Luko97, when i first installed my front lokka i had the fixed hubs and add that is standard on the surf, it had no problems driving, didn't even know it was there in 2wd so if you can't afford the free wheeling hub kit then its fine. I went to free wheeling hubs after about 3 months just to save on the wear and tear on the front as everything is turning when in 2wd just not connected to the transfer.
Its very confusing with what to believe and what not to but I think in the front you can't go wrong with an auto locker, in the rear they are a compromise for on road but if you go off road then its well worth the clicking and a slight change in driving habits for the added ability off road.
Catcha
As for reshimming I have never touched mine (not even shimmed when first installed) and its been in the rear for two years and was daily driven up until the last 6 months. I have never broken pins either (front or rear) have broken an AVM hub on the front though.
Luko97, when i first installed my front lokka i had the fixed hubs and add that is standard on the surf, it had no problems driving, didn't even know it was there in 2wd so if you can't afford the free wheeling hub kit then its fine. I went to free wheeling hubs after about 3 months just to save on the wear and tear on the front as everything is turning when in 2wd just not connected to the transfer.
Its very confusing with what to believe and what not to but I think in the front you can't go wrong with an auto locker, in the rear they are a compromise for on road but if you go off road then its well worth the clicking and a slight change in driving habits for the added ability off road.
Catcha
Bloody IFS bugger who slows down the SAS boys.
www.vickrawlers.com
www.vickrawlers.com
mate has front and rear in 80 series and no questions front is very good apart from obvious steering and side slope issues in wet but proved itself very useful on straight line steep slippery hills........
i suggest you would be made to have front in non manual hubs
the one in the back he wants rid of..... the strain it seems to put on everything as it violently releases is terrible and embarrasing....... turning corners in the wet and it sudently engages as round she goes(note this is a standard diesl 80!) he wishes he had air locked the back
claws nearly wear as you sit there on the back!
i suggest you would be made to have front in non manual hubs
the one in the back he wants rid of..... the strain it seems to put on everything as it violently releases is terrible and embarrasing....... turning corners in the wet and it sudently engages as round she goes(note this is a standard diesl 80!) he wishes he had air locked the back
claws nearly wear as you sit there on the back!
2015 200 Series Gx TTD - ................ Fark 3L's -
4WD Systems, the originator of secret squirel activities.
I had a 4WD Systems franchise and hold the deepest of regrets today in having heard of the name and their Lokka product. I have seen a lot of things from inside and if I could tell everything I know, it'd be a small novel and interesting reading.
In short relating to the what this thread is about ie. Lokka I can assure you that there has been some dodgy cover ups with this product. 4WD Systems was the original Lock Right distributor in Australia from about 93/94-98. Everything was rosie in the way of sales for Systems but working capital was always a problem for them, as was supply of the product. Guarranteed everytime we placed a locker order we'd wait a good 6-8 weeks for the product and were insisting on a 50% deposit when placing orders. Whilst I don't know exactly the reason for the change, in around 98' there was a change in the diff locks we were receiving from them. The finish was not the same and little charateristics differed from what we were used to. The tolerances in fitment were different and when we consulted 4WD Systems to get more detail on why were having trouble with fitment we were told that we lacked experience or didn't know what were doing. We were a little perplexed to be told this when we had been fitting these for a couple of years previously. These new lockers came in a Lock Right box but we knew it was not the Lock Right product. 4WD Systems obviously had changed the product and we knew it wasn't right.
A few good examples of problems we had related to both Sierra and Landcruiser. I remember receiving a batch of 4x LR15 diff locks for the rear of 75' and 80' Landcruisers with LSD. We fitted two units and sold another over the counter. The units we fitted kept snapping the pins and we tried everything we knew to sort the problem. Checked tyre pressures, trueness of the axles, R&R'd the diff 4x times to check tolerances and we just couldn't get this POS to stop snapping pins. We fitted another unit to another Landcruiser with the same results and the unit that I sold over the counter, the customer returned 3x times after he'd fitted it twice to get new spring/pin kit, the third time to throw the POS at me.
Similar problems were had with units for the Sierra. So in the end we gave up on the product and starting using Detroit EZ lockers. This product wasn't quite as good as the original Lock Right but was a darn sight better than than the Lokka product. The Lokka problems were only an example of bad product that came from 4WD Systems. There is countless stories relating bad manufacture of their bullbars, long range tanks etc. In the end the ACCC got involved as all of the franchisees were having major problems with 4WD Systems. There was a major blow up and it all ended up in court.
I had a 4WD Systems franchise and hold the deepest of regrets today in having heard of the name and their Lokka product. I have seen a lot of things from inside and if I could tell everything I know, it'd be a small novel and interesting reading.
In short relating to the what this thread is about ie. Lokka I can assure you that there has been some dodgy cover ups with this product. 4WD Systems was the original Lock Right distributor in Australia from about 93/94-98. Everything was rosie in the way of sales for Systems but working capital was always a problem for them, as was supply of the product. Guarranteed everytime we placed a locker order we'd wait a good 6-8 weeks for the product and were insisting on a 50% deposit when placing orders. Whilst I don't know exactly the reason for the change, in around 98' there was a change in the diff locks we were receiving from them. The finish was not the same and little charateristics differed from what we were used to. The tolerances in fitment were different and when we consulted 4WD Systems to get more detail on why were having trouble with fitment we were told that we lacked experience or didn't know what were doing. We were a little perplexed to be told this when we had been fitting these for a couple of years previously. These new lockers came in a Lock Right box but we knew it was not the Lock Right product. 4WD Systems obviously had changed the product and we knew it wasn't right.
A few good examples of problems we had related to both Sierra and Landcruiser. I remember receiving a batch of 4x LR15 diff locks for the rear of 75' and 80' Landcruisers with LSD. We fitted two units and sold another over the counter. The units we fitted kept snapping the pins and we tried everything we knew to sort the problem. Checked tyre pressures, trueness of the axles, R&R'd the diff 4x times to check tolerances and we just couldn't get this POS to stop snapping pins. We fitted another unit to another Landcruiser with the same results and the unit that I sold over the counter, the customer returned 3x times after he'd fitted it twice to get new spring/pin kit, the third time to throw the POS at me.
Similar problems were had with units for the Sierra. So in the end we gave up on the product and starting using Detroit EZ lockers. This product wasn't quite as good as the original Lock Right but was a darn sight better than than the Lokka product. The Lokka problems were only an example of bad product that came from 4WD Systems. There is countless stories relating bad manufacture of their bullbars, long range tanks etc. In the end the ACCC got involved as all of the franchisees were having major problems with 4WD Systems. There was a major blow up and it all ended up in court.
http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/4wd-products
I have been running a lokka in the front of my Lux with auto hubs for 2 years now with no problems at all. I have a couple of mates with the same setup also and again no problems. I cannot talk of the rear as I have not experienced it but I cannot fault mine in the front I am yet to have a problem with it!!!
They are a cheep short term option!!!
I had one in the back of the cruiser for 5 years. Pulled it out to place in new rusty cruiser and hole sh@# the splines had nearly worn off the axels.
Now I have stuffed axels and locker, add it all up and yep I could have had a real locker and nun of that banging going on around corners.
I had one in the back of the cruiser for 5 years. Pulled it out to place in new rusty cruiser and hole sh@# the splines had nearly worn off the axels.
Now I have stuffed axels and locker, add it all up and yep I could have had a real locker and nun of that banging going on around corners.
Put one in the back of a mates hilux, 308, 5 speed and they then fitted one to a mates shorty MQ, 350 chev and T700, Great bang for your buck the hilux ran 33 mudzilla's and the MQ had 36 simex's, both were faultless aslong as the odd bang around round abouts and in carparks doesn't worry ya!!
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I run Detroits front and rear. I swear by them. I have had A$B air lockers and I didn't like them.
Reasons - Detroit locker is always on. You always have the benfit and you can steer them where you want.
Front Detroit is the best option and has the least affect to the way the vehicle drives. Sure the steering is heavier and it wants to self centre the steering wheel in 4WD. Plus with the hubs unlocked or out of 4 wheel drive you don't know it's there.
Rear Detroit - Does affect the car on the road. You will notice the wheels biting and chirping from time to time in the car park.
If you run the correct oil you don't get the claimed banging of it unlocking very often. Probably 10 times in 12 months.
You definately need to adjust the way you drive the car, but I particulary love the rear.
For me the best bet is to fit a front locker. It will improve your off road performance by 100% I would only go a rear Detroit if you are an offroad junky. You probably won't notice the benfit of the rear after you have the front done. Bang for your buck is do the front and see how impressed you are.
My experience is only with Detroit Locker. I have a HZj75 series cruiser, weight will affect how the locker performs, heavier is better I think.
That's my 2 cents.
Reasons - Detroit locker is always on. You always have the benfit and you can steer them where you want.
Front Detroit is the best option and has the least affect to the way the vehicle drives. Sure the steering is heavier and it wants to self centre the steering wheel in 4WD. Plus with the hubs unlocked or out of 4 wheel drive you don't know it's there.
Rear Detroit - Does affect the car on the road. You will notice the wheels biting and chirping from time to time in the car park.
If you run the correct oil you don't get the claimed banging of it unlocking very often. Probably 10 times in 12 months.
You definately need to adjust the way you drive the car, but I particulary love the rear.
For me the best bet is to fit a front locker. It will improve your off road performance by 100% I would only go a rear Detroit if you are an offroad junky. You probably won't notice the benfit of the rear after you have the front done. Bang for your buck is do the front and see how impressed you are.
My experience is only with Detroit Locker. I have a HZj75 series cruiser, weight will affect how the locker performs, heavier is better I think.
That's my 2 cents.
75 series ute. 8 inch lift, Drop shackles, Shock hoops, ladder bar, Ubolt flip, 3 inch wheel spacers, intercooled turbo, winch, twin detroits, 35" Mtr's, etc, etc.
So why would anyone pay for the Chineese "Lokka" when you can order the original (read: good quality American) Richmond Loc-rite from the states for cheaper, landed. And it only takes a couple weeks at the worst.
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
I have bought 4 lockers from them, they are the cheapest and they get here.
I had 2 Loc-rites in my Surf, never had any problems (quality wise) for about 4- 5 yrs. The rear clicks and clacks (never changed lanes or otherwise) and the front does limit steering. Just do 5 point turns instead of 3. Made the Surf unreal off road. Definately install free wheeling hubs as the Loc-rite keeps the whole front end spinning even in 2WD (although not enguaged, just spinning and wearing).
Alec
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
I have bought 4 lockers from them, they are the cheapest and they get here.
I had 2 Loc-rites in my Surf, never had any problems (quality wise) for about 4- 5 yrs. The rear clicks and clacks (never changed lanes or otherwise) and the front does limit steering. Just do 5 point turns instead of 3. Made the Surf unreal off road. Definately install free wheeling hubs as the Loc-rite keeps the whole front end spinning even in 2WD (although not enguaged, just spinning and wearing).
Alec
GO the 80...The mods have started :-)
Detroit Locker
The Detroit Locker maximizes traction by delivering 100 percent of the torque to both drive wheels. It is engineered to keep both wheels in a constant drive mode, and has the ability to automatically allow wheel speed differentiation when required. Enthusiasts and professionals use the Detroit Locker in many off-road applications. It is the only differential used in NASCAR.
The Detroit Locker maximizes traction by delivering 100 percent of the torque to both drive wheels. It is engineered to keep both wheels in a constant drive mode, and has the ability to automatically allow wheel speed differentiation when required. Enthusiasts and professionals use the Detroit Locker in many off-road applications. It is the only differential used in NASCAR.
75 series ute. 8 inch lift, Drop shackles, Shock hoops, ladder bar, Ubolt flip, 3 inch wheel spacers, intercooled turbo, winch, twin detroits, 35" Mtr's, etc, etc.
hi i have a lokka lock rite in the front of my hilux, I reciently broke something on the weekend which i initially thought was the cv.
After jacking it up and spinning both front wheels it seems there is nothing wrong with cv or diff (no noises either side, forward or reverse), when i drive forward it doesnt crunch but when i change direction directly from forward motion to reverse it goes bang.
Would you think this is a problem with the lokka or maybe diff/cv.
What noises or how did it 'crunch' when the pins on the lock rite let go?
I have 33x12.5 muddies i was at the time on nearly full lock, only barley moving. I did nothing wrong but i know cv's are more likley to break when wheels are turned but i was only driving over a rut which could not be avoided...
Do other people have problems with breaking cv's with the lokkas in the front????
Cheers
After jacking it up and spinning both front wheels it seems there is nothing wrong with cv or diff (no noises either side, forward or reverse), when i drive forward it doesnt crunch but when i change direction directly from forward motion to reverse it goes bang.
Would you think this is a problem with the lokka or maybe diff/cv.
What noises or how did it 'crunch' when the pins on the lock rite let go?
I have 33x12.5 muddies i was at the time on nearly full lock, only barley moving. I did nothing wrong but i know cv's are more likley to break when wheels are turned but i was only driving over a rut which could not be avoided...
Do other people have problems with breaking cv's with the lokkas in the front????
Cheers
Nothing to do with Lokka's but
Scenario: You have a rear locker engaged, open front diff, your going up a gnarly hill, a front wheel lifts and maybe a back wheel momentarily loses contact with the ground, will the front wheel in the air start spinning faster than the others? No. Because the other front wheel still on the ground is connected through the driveline to the LOCKED rear and can only turn as fast as the rear wheels. The front wheel in the air will only spin if the rear wheels do. So you still have a bit of positive traction up the front even though its an open diff as long as the rear is locked.
Same goes for a good tight LSD too.
I would go for a rear locker before a front one. Most of the vehicles weight is transferred to the rear when you really need traction anyway.
Scenario: You have a rear locker engaged, open front diff, your going up a gnarly hill, a front wheel lifts and maybe a back wheel momentarily loses contact with the ground, will the front wheel in the air start spinning faster than the others? No. Because the other front wheel still on the ground is connected through the driveline to the LOCKED rear and can only turn as fast as the rear wheels. The front wheel in the air will only spin if the rear wheels do. So you still have a bit of positive traction up the front even though its an open diff as long as the rear is locked.
Same goes for a good tight LSD too.
I would go for a rear locker before a front one. Most of the vehicles weight is transferred to the rear when you really need traction anyway.
Bordertrek 4X4 & Fabrication
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
My detroit softlocker in the rear doesn't seem to disengage readily enough. If i apply any sort of power around corners (i pretty much have to coast) it stays lcoked/locks and i chirp/shuffle my way around the corner. (HJ75 Troopy, standard motor, 33's). I've only ever had the back come around unexpectedly once, but it's quite a pig to drive.
When i jack the car up and play with the wheels by hand, it's easier to disengage the front than the rear,
I need to get the diff rebuilt as it is (bearings are stuffed/massive backlash) but does anyone have any idea if this sort of behaviour is to be expected and if not what the problem could be (and $$'s)
-Stu
When i jack the car up and play with the wheels by hand, it's easier to disengage the front than the rear,
I need to get the diff rebuilt as it is (bearings are stuffed/massive backlash) but does anyone have any idea if this sort of behaviour is to be expected and if not what the problem could be (and $$'s)
-Stu
If the front is open and the rear is locked, the front in the air will spin twice as fast as the rear and the front on the ground will have no drive. Diff locks only effect the axle they're mounted to otherwise we would only need one, wouldn't we. Yes the drive shafts will spin at the same speed but once inside the diff an open diff will send all torque to the path of least resistance, ie wheel in airsudso wrote:Nothing to do with Lokka's but
Scenario: You have a rear locker engaged, open front diff, your going up a gnarly hill, a front wheel lifts and maybe a back wheel momentarily loses contact with the ground, will the front wheel in the air start spinning faster than the others? No. Because the other front wheel still on the ground is connected through the driveline to the LOCKED rear and can only turn as fast as the rear wheels. The front wheel in the air will only spin if the rear wheels do. So you still have a bit of positive traction up the front even though its an open diff as long as the rear is locked.
Same goes for a good tight LSD too.
I would go for a rear locker before a front one. Most of the vehicles weight is transferred to the rear when you really need traction anyway.
Had a Lokka in my old Surf and also have one in my GQ, both in the front.
Very happy and they are good value.
The click on corners, so what.
My only gripe with an autlolocker is using them in 4WD on tracks at speed, i.e. just did Cape York with lots of slippery-when-wet tracks which I would have liked to use 4WD on, but could not since the lokka tended to want to steer you off the track. Will be changing to a ProLocker one day....
Good on the rocks though.
Very happy and they are good value.
The click on corners, so what.
My only gripe with an autlolocker is using them in 4WD on tracks at speed, i.e. just did Cape York with lots of slippery-when-wet tracks which I would have liked to use 4WD on, but could not since the lokka tended to want to steer you off the track. Will be changing to a ProLocker one day....
Good on the rocks though.
its not allways good to have your diffs locked all the time, locked diffs can be scarey on sideslopes and dangerous aswell i have found on mud sideslopes with my air lockers on it wants to pull you down them but its fine with them turned off, in my opionion i have seen both in action and i know airlockers are expensive but just keep saving it will be worth the wait when you have a locked diff at the flick of a button, i love my 2 air lockers best mod i have done to date.
GQ LWB TD42, boost, lockers etc
http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
http://forum.mudrhino.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=262&start=30
Owners Comment - I had one in the REAR of my Surf. Loved it, never had a problem. I wouldn't put on in the front. In the rear of an auto they are near faultless with a faint clicking. Difference offroad was astounding, walked all over std cruisers and patrols. I know all teh debates, but in the surf I would go rear for the follwoing logic
a) Rear is 4 pinion diff - ensures cam plates are even at all times - stronger. 2 pinion doesn't even out the load.
b) rear is 8" diff - stronger. The front 7.5" is very weak (I broke mine)
c) I need a locker uphill, the rear wheels do 80% of the work uphill
d) The ADD system will give a locker hell in the front, would need to be disabled.
e) Rear is an easy fit at home, front is a bigger job
I loved it, simple. Yes I ent through tough stuff. No I never used full throttle rock hopping to spin tyres on wet rocks as per a comp car. I think that would break it. Yes I used 100% throttle in sand and mud, no worries. I never had a traction problem uphill after that, only thing that stopped me at Ormeo was BOTH front wheels starting to have weight come off when creeping uphill.
In a manual you will get more rear axle steer, auto is gentler.
I towed 3T of trailer regularly, never had problem. (yeah, exceeds the 1500 limit)
Had it fitted for 2 yrs before selling car to go overseas.
Mine was the Lokka from 4wd Systems
a) Rear is 4 pinion diff - ensures cam plates are even at all times - stronger. 2 pinion doesn't even out the load.
b) rear is 8" diff - stronger. The front 7.5" is very weak (I broke mine)
c) I need a locker uphill, the rear wheels do 80% of the work uphill
d) The ADD system will give a locker hell in the front, would need to be disabled.
e) Rear is an easy fit at home, front is a bigger job
I loved it, simple. Yes I ent through tough stuff. No I never used full throttle rock hopping to spin tyres on wet rocks as per a comp car. I think that would break it. Yes I used 100% throttle in sand and mud, no worries. I never had a traction problem uphill after that, only thing that stopped me at Ormeo was BOTH front wheels starting to have weight come off when creeping uphill.
In a manual you will get more rear axle steer, auto is gentler.
I towed 3T of trailer regularly, never had problem. (yeah, exceeds the 1500 limit)
Had it fitted for 2 yrs before selling car to go overseas.
Mine was the Lokka from 4wd Systems
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
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