rear axle move on SWB GQ?????

[Nelso]

Does anyone know of a SWB GQ thats had the rear axle moved back with the body still complete(ie not chopped into a ute)? I did move mine back 50mm when I had an A-frame in it, with the shocks (skinny rancho's) still in there factory position. I have since converted back to a five link and moved it forward 25mm(now 25mm behind original) in order to fit the panhard. I was thinking of changing to a four link and moving the shock and spring mounts back so they were 125mm (5inches) behind their factory positions. I have two mates who have done similar (a 300 & 500mm shift) to their chopped shorties but they both moved fuel tanks and modified chassis etc. but have not heard of anyone doing it with the body on. Any help is appreciated.

[nzdarin]

There's a few around the are wellside utes that have been done. They look pretty good as well. I haven't seen a full wagon that has been done though. I've moved mine 10" and used long arms and shifted the spring, shock and panhard mountings. Best thing I ever did.

[MKPatrolGuy]

Ben Russell has a full back Shorty with the axle moved back about 5"

[AFeral]

Theres a few around Kill Bill and GQ Hoon spring to mind.
There will be pictures of Kill Bills GQ on the outback challenge pictures
There will be pictures of GQ Hoon on 'On tracks' vic website as well as the outback challenge.

[Nelso]

There's a few around the are wellside utes that have been done. They look pretty good as well. I haven't seen a full wagon that has been done though. I've moved mine 10" and used long arms and shifted the spring, shock and panhard mountings. Best thing I ever did.

I'm so glad to hear it can be done. I'd actually prefer to move it back 10 inches with longer arms but couldn't work out where to fit spring and shock mounts. It must be so much more stable now on hill climbs. All mine wants to do is wheel stand and fall over onto its right side.

What did you do with your fuel tank? Did you use the original spring locators and reposition them or customise new ones? Did you have problems with the tyre clearing the rear body mount? And do you have any pictures of where you positioned things?

[ZOOK60]

I have been contemplating doing it to mine but I’m just wafting for the time to do it. I’m planning on running it on straight gas and putting the gas tank inside the cab behind the back seat. I want to put the back diff back as far as possible just enough so I can get mudflaps on it. I will also have to weld up the fuel filler as the tyre would now flex up there.
You would be better off just making some new spring mounts. Also you would need a smaller feul tank depending on how far back you went.

Any pics would be appreciated

[Nelso]

Ben Russell has a full back Shorty with the axle moved back about 5"

You wouldn't happen to know him well onough to know how he did it, and to ask if 5 inches made that much of a difference with handling would you?

[A1]

[quote="Nelso"]

I'm so glad to hear it can be done. I'd actually prefer to move it back 10 inches with longer arms but couldn't work out where to fit spring and shock mounts. It must be so much more stable now on hill climbs. All mine wants to do is wheel stand and fall over onto its right side.



Dude do you think it may want to do this beacuse your running 9" of lift .......for just 37" I had 6" in my shorty and cleared 37"s ( 4" springs 2" body) And there is many on here running alot less lift just by cutting the guards ....the stock five link is the prob just as much as the wheelbase if your 4 link the rear properly it will make it drive a hell of alot better .......

I 4 linked the rear of mine moved the axle back 30mm the front 12mm with the known spacers and ran the mentioned 37"s ...and it was a hell of alot better ....it was far more stable and also retain your coils upper n lower thats another good cuase of flopping it ........


MY OLD POS


this is Carltons ( Wendle off outers)
from memory he got it out to 99" wheelbase ......its now (has been for a year prob 2 ) a tube buggy has changed owners twice .....this was the last phase of Carltons build b4 having enough from the law inforcers in ACT .... carlton was only running 6" lift (springs) in the below pic

[Nelso]

I have been contemplating doing it to mine but I’m just wafting for the time to do it. I’m planning on running it on straight gas and putting the gas tank inside the cab behind the back seat. I want to put the back diff back as far as possible just enough so I can get mudflaps on it. I will also have to weld up the fuel filler as the tyre would now flex up there.
You would be better off just making some new spring mounts. Also you would need a smaller feul tank depending on how far back you went.

Any pics would be appreciated

Your right about it being much easier with relocating an LPG tank, unfortunately mines a diesel. Don't think I can put it inside.

Besides the fuel filler there's also the position of the rear bodymount that could foul on the tyre (depending on how far up into the well the tyre will flex) limiting how far back the axle can go.

[Nelso]

Dude do you think it may want to do this beacuse your running 9" of lift .......for just 37"

Already considering dropping to four or five inch springs. I know 7 is too big for a Shorty. The stupid thing is I had a four inch lift in it and turfed it for the 7. I blame the other 3 shorties in my club at the time that all had 6 to 7" spring and 3" body lifts. (2 have now been chopped into tray-backs an the other was sold) And the stupid mentality that bigger was better!

and also retain your coils upper n lower that's another good cause of flopping it ........

Coils are retained top and bottom in rear. Its more the ridiculous height and soft rear end. Would still prefer longer wheelbase as shorties seem to get stuck on more uphill ledges than longer wheel-based 4B's. Not just me either so don't assume its all the fault of my crap driving!

[A1]

Yeah I weren't saying that you cant drive ......but yeah the used to be formula bigga is betta has certainly died in the ass ...for a lower longer wider formula... for sure if you can get the 10" extra go for it but yes I would definatley loose alot of lift .


cheezy does the stretch on the shortys while keeping panels .....not sure if he done this 1 or not (IM sure some1 knows this fella on outers)

I do like this shorty (edit I meant MIDDY )

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 153&pos=49


Dan

[Nelso]

Yeah I weren't saying that you cant drive ......but yeah the used to be formula bigga is betta has certainly died in the ass ...for a lower longer wider formula... for sure if you can get the 10" extra go for it but yes I would definatley loose alot of lift .


cheezy does the stretch on the shortys while keeping panels .....not sure if he done this 1 or not (IM sure some1 knows this fella on outers)

I do like this shorty (edit I meant MIDDY )

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 153&pos=49


Dan

Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm after.

It's a good lesson for all the newbees that are looking to lift a 4B not to go too far. They might look good but they might not work well.

[MKPatrolGuy]

Yeah I weren't saying that you cant drive ......but yeah the used to be formula bigga is betta has certainly died in the ass ...for a lower longer wider formula... for sure if you can get the 10" extra go for it but yes I would definatley loose alot of lift .


cheezy does the stretch on the shortys while keeping panels .....not sure if he done this 1 or not (IM sure some1 knows this fella on outers)

I do like this shorty (edit I meant MIDDY )

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 153&pos=49


Dan

Here is another one from the same event

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 158&pos=10

[A1]

Yeah as I said above these new rigs coming through the OBC and winch challenge events are the poo ......thats a bling middy aswell I shoulda picked up aswell on that 1 Ive watched the dvd enough


Dan

[Beastmavster]

Looks pretty neat

[MKPatrolGuy]

Ben Russell has a full back Shorty with the axle moved back about 5"

You wouldn't happen to know him well onough to know how he did it, and to ask if 5 inches made that much of a difference with handling would you?

If I remember correctly, Ben converted to a 4 link rear and pushed the axle right back so the pumpkin just clears the front of the standard long range tank.

[badger]

i kno it aint a gq but if u look at zeros posts on his mq he has shifted the rear back 10 inches with a full body

[Nelso]

If I remember correctly, Ben converted to a 4 link rear and pushed the axle right back so the pumpkin just clears the front of the standard long range tank.


Do you know where his shocks were mounted?

[MKPatrolGuy]

If I remember correctly, Ben converted to a 4 link rear and pushed the axle right back so the pumpkin just clears the front of the standard long range tank.


Do you know where his shocks were mounted?

Nope, but I'll try to remember to ask the next time I see him.

[Nelso]

Thanks heaps. Keep me posted.

[Gabriel]

Hi,

I did moved the rear axel. If you move it with 250 mm, you don't touch the gas deposit. This is what I did about 3 years ago. Then I move it again with another 100 mm (or something like...), but I did moved the rear crossmember and I choped the gas deposit.
The set-up is using a 4 link tringulated, custom, with sway-a-way coil over shocks, 16" travel, double cardan joint.

The result worth the efforts...;-)

There should be some picts somewhere on the net...
If you go with 37" tires, you must chop the rear wings as well....even with 35"...
The job can be done with the body on the chassis...but its much easier to take it out. I didn't doit, anyway...;-))

Regards, Gabi

[/img]

[Gabriel]

BTW: the wheelbase now is 2650 mm.

[TUFFRANGIE]

Rohan Canavan has done his too, he bought second hand doors and cut the piece out of them and welded it in place to allow for the extension. It has a frame rear, king coilovers and custom fuel tank. It was full bodied and stretched before it was a ute

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4even ... 113&pos=55

[nzdarin]

To extend mine to 104" ie plus 10", I cut of the spring platforms then used the left platform on the right and the right on the left. With a 10" extension you effectively move the spring platform from the front of the arch in the chassis to the rear of the arch. It ends up being the same hieght on the curve (if that makes sense?). I got the cross member with the shock mounts from another chassis and then positions that and the panhard rod mount back the relevant distance. My lower arms were 265mm longer which added about 250mm, but that's not how far we moved the mounts. We fitted the arms then moved the axle through it travel arch and worked thing from there. It's a lot easier than it sounds. Also when the panhard mount was fitted we dropped it to retain factory specs so I use a standard panhard in the rear.
I had the same problem with wheel standing and that was with a 3 + 2 lift and a trayback! With the new setup it just puts power to the ground and goes. Hill climbs are great. First comp out with no testing ie got it back together the week before, I came 3rd which was best placing ever.
I used a standard 65l tank and just lifted it up so it was in the same place but higher.
I don't think you'll have any issue with the rear body mounts with a 10" extension but I cut mine off so not positive.
You will definitely need to retain spring as the articulation is massively increased with the arms being that much longer.
I also fitted twin shiocks in the front at the same time and that is also a huge improvement. The combination is an amazing difference.

[Nelso]

Thanks all. I'm a lot more confident about doing this now. I think the easiest way is going to change the rear to a 4 link and move the axle 5 to 6" back, putting the spring platform about 4.5" lower than standard (with lower springs) so it doesn't foul on the crossmember with the shock mounts. I'll then move the shockmounts behind the same crossmember, i.e. between the chassis and fuel tank, and then do the body work to move the wheel arches back.

I just had a shoulder reco a month ago so the project isn't due to start untill January when I have hol's. It'll give me a bit more time for fine tuning my plan as well. I'll work out how and include pictures when I do it and put them here for all to see.

If anyone has anything else to add, drop a line. It all helps.

[justinshere]

Im in the first stages of doing this also.

Im clearing out my engine bay a little first, moving the precleaner (4.2 carby motor) and all the air intake pipes, as well as the dual batterys, they will go in the back somewhere. Doing this so i can put coilovers in there. Plan is to move front forward about 4" just havent decided on the linkage i want to use yet. Wether it be a 5 Link or a 3 Link w/Panhard. Still have to drive on the road a little so i want decent handling..

For the rear i want to keep the full cab (for the moment) so ill be chopping out the rear floor and lifting it so the tank is still outside the cabin. Then making another floor thats above the tank. The body mount will have to be removed and ill make a bit of tube work around the tank to put lights and the body will be secured to that.

In total the new wheelbase should be about 110" 7" shorten that a LWB



The red line is the new level of the floor and all the red will be removed.




Hopefully it'll look something like this. It looks abit crap but it'll work!

[justinshere]

[quote="A1"][quote="Nelso"]

I'm so glad to hear it can be done. I'd actually prefer to move it back 10 inches with longer arms but couldn't work out where to fit spring and shock mounts. It must be so much more stable now on hill climbs. All mine wants to do is wheel stand and fall over onto its right side.



Dude do you think it may want to do this beacuse your running 9" of lift .......for just 37" I had 6" in my shorty and cleared 37"s ( 4" springs 2" body) And there is many on here running alot less lift just by cutting the guards ....the stock five link is the prob just as much as the wheelbase if your 4 link the rear properly it will make it drive a hell of alot better .......

I 4 linked the rear of mine moved the axle back 30mm the front 12mm with the known spacers and ran the mentioned 37"s ...and it was a hell of alot better ....it was far more stable and also retain your coils upper n lower thats another good cuase of flopping it ........


MY OLD POS


Hey A1,

When u 4 Linked the rear did u lenghten the arms or still used the standard chassis mounts?

Cheers Justin

[ZOOK60]

this is kinda how i want mine same as my zook was but on a larger scale

[Nelso]

Im in the first stages of doing this also.

Im clearing out my engine bay a little first, moving the precleaner (4.2 carby motor) and all the air intake pipes, as well as the dual batterys, they will go in the back somewhere. Doing this so i can put coilovers in there. Plan is to move front forward about 4" just havent decided on the linkage i want to use yet. Wether it be a 5 Link or a 3 Link w/Panhard. Still have to drive on the road a little so i want decent handling..

For the rear i want to keep the full cab (for the moment) so ill be chopping out the rear floor and lifting it so the tank is still outside the cabin. Then making another floor thats above the tank. The body mount will have to be removed and ill make a bit of tube work around the tank to put lights and the body will be secured to that.

In total the new wheelbase should be about 110" 7" shorten that a LWB



The red line is the new level of the floor and all the red will be removed.




Hopefully it'll look something like this. It looks abit crap but it'll work!

Why not convert it to LPG and just put the tank in the back behind your rear seat? Cheaper fuel and you can keep your body in one piece, apart from the wheel arches. With Johnny kicking in a lazy $2K its the option I would take.

[A1]

Hey A1,

When u 4 Linked the rear did u lenghten the arms or still used the standard chassis mounts?

Cheers Justin

All new brkts had alot of help from Wendle ...with pics and actual cad design of the brkts that he had done for his (at the time) SWB

Uppers and lowers were triangulated all new mounts lowers were moved forward as you can see from the inside pic you can see the inside tube sleeve for the old mount..

ps just make sure to plate the chassis before the stress on the inside part of my rails actually deformed it after a while ...instead of cutting it all off and plating I just added braces to the top of the mount to spread the load and it never moved after that

pics










cheers