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Rust Proofing
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Rust Proofing
Hey There
A) Where in Brisbane is the best place to get my Cruiser rust proofed? and roughly what it would cost me????
B) Or, if I was to do it myself,
Whats the best stuff to use Underneith (guards, underbody, chassis etc) and best stuff to use inside (doors, panels, engine bay, etc)?
Where Do i get all the stuff from Whats the best method to go about aplicating it, i.e spray? brush? spray gun?
How do i go about coating down inside the walls of the chassis rails?
Cheers
Troy
A) Where in Brisbane is the best place to get my Cruiser rust proofed? and roughly what it would cost me????
B) Or, if I was to do it myself,
Whats the best stuff to use Underneith (guards, underbody, chassis etc) and best stuff to use inside (doors, panels, engine bay, etc)?
Where Do i get all the stuff from Whats the best method to go about aplicating it, i.e spray? brush? spray gun?
How do i go about coating down inside the walls of the chassis rails?
Cheers
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Depends on how old your Cruiser is....
If its getting on, with a bit of surface corrosion on all underbody surfaces, then I would be spraying Lanolin everywhere. Ideally after a good water blast and dry-out.
Its to bits you cant see that will end up being a problem.
I have an ERPS electronic system but as yet I cannot confirm that it is doing anything, I think it works, but will not guarantee it.
If its getting on, with a bit of surface corrosion on all underbody surfaces, then I would be spraying Lanolin everywhere. Ideally after a good water blast and dry-out.
Its to bits you cant see that will end up being a problem.
I have an ERPS electronic system but as yet I cannot confirm that it is doing anything, I think it works, but will not guarantee it.
Its a 89 HJ61 Sahara underneith is fairly clean, rust wise its just alot of the paint is chipped off. there are a few spots here and there but nothin i cant fix before hand
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
I had my cruiser for a few years without rust proofing and just made sure I kept her nice and clean.
About a year and a half ago i got it rust proofed.
Wish I had never got it done. I now have mud and sand inside the panels and its all kind of gummy and i can't get it off.
If I had my way again would not rust proof and just make sure I washed her down good and proper after beach work.
At the end of the day steel only rusts when the paint comes off so if you look after it and keep it clean and tidy there should not be a problem.
Having a rust proof coating in my opinion only makes it harder to keep it clean as shit tends to stick to it.
This theory probably does not work for older cars that are a bit beat up with ordinary paint work or cracks in seams etc.
Burnsy
About a year and a half ago i got it rust proofed.
Wish I had never got it done. I now have mud and sand inside the panels and its all kind of gummy and i can't get it off.
If I had my way again would not rust proof and just make sure I washed her down good and proper after beach work.
At the end of the day steel only rusts when the paint comes off so if you look after it and keep it clean and tidy there should not be a problem.
Having a rust proof coating in my opinion only makes it harder to keep it clean as shit tends to stick to it.
This theory probably does not work for older cars that are a bit beat up with ordinary paint work or cracks in seams etc.
Burnsy
My 98 lux was done at Rust Free before I bought it. Looks like a really good sturdy coat on the underside but they didnt do interior. It dries hard and doesnt stick but i think you need to get spot checks evey now and then for it to work well. Reciept says it costed >400.
I used to do my old sierra with mixture of 4L fishoil and 4L tectol. Round 100 bucks to do whole car inside and out. Just need a friend with a compressor and spray gun. Smells a bit but goes away after a while. Also is very stcky and remains so. Use to take it for a spin down a dirt road to give it a nice coating.
I used to do my old sierra with mixture of 4L fishoil and 4L tectol. Round 100 bucks to do whole car inside and out. Just need a friend with a compressor and spray gun. Smells a bit but goes away after a while. Also is very stcky and remains so. Use to take it for a spin down a dirt road to give it a nice coating.
I have had 2 ERPS systems and think they are unreal. Also my family has 5 other cars with them and they are very effective, would not even consider spray on again.
I also know someone who does huge amounts of beach work who recently replaced his rust free dual cab hilux which was fitted with ERPS with a new one, and took the ERPS unit onto the new one.
I also know someone who does huge amounts of beach work who recently replaced his rust free dual cab hilux which was fitted with ERPS with a new one, and took the ERPS unit onto the new one.
92 WT Sierra
04 Navara STR Dual Cab 3.0di
04 Navara STR Dual Cab 3.0di
and yet science would disagree with you.waxhead.. wrote:I have had 2 ERPS systems and think they are unreal. Also my family has 5 other cars with them and they are very effective, would not even consider spray on again.
I also know someone who does huge amounts of beach work who recently replaced his rust free dual cab hilux which was fitted with ERPS with a new one, and took the ERPS unit onto the new one.
I got all the gear to do it myself but the only thing i cant do is the inside of the chassis rails. I was thinking about ERPS but then, i hear its good and i hear its sh!t the inside of my car still has a heap of rust proofing wax stuff so im only gonna do under body.
Keep the info commin fellas every little bit helps
Cheers
Keep the info commin fellas every little bit helps
Cheers
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
Dont leave it there, explain ....Shadow wrote:and yet science would disagree with you.waxhead.. wrote:I have had 2 ERPS systems and think they are unreal. Also my family has 5 other cars with them and they are very effective, would not even consider spray on again.
I also know someone who does huge amounts of beach work who recently replaced his rust free dual cab hilux which was fitted with ERPS with a new one, and took the ERPS unit onto the new one.
2008 Patrol wagon and 99 Patrol TD Ute
Cairns
Cairns
ERPS systems dont just get used on vehicles. major companies have used them on steel frame houses/sheds etc that are close by sea water, aswell as on jettys and piers.
http://www.erps.com.au/contents.php?Pid=2&Sid=4
visit that for more info.
http://www.erps.com.au/contents.php?Pid=2&Sid=4
visit that for more info.
These systems are a cathodic protection system working on the same principal as boats that bolt big lumps of magnesium to thier hull(i think sacrificial rusting ie magnesium blocks is an anerodic process). The magnesium corrodes first producing an excess of electrons. These electrons are then consumed instead of the steel coroding(which also free's electrons). Boats and bridges use these electronic systems very successfully.
They work on a boat because the salt water is a good conductor and completely covers the hull (except the part of the hull out of the water which must be protected by paint).
They dont work on a vehicle because the vehicle is surounded by air, and air is a shit conductor.
If the surface being protected is not completely surrounded by a good conductor the excess electrons produced by the block of magenesium or electonic cathodic protection system wont work.
I really cannot be bothered digging up all of the science behind this process, but it has been discussed many many times, and every discussion comes down to the fact that the surface being protected MUST be coated by a good conductor. IE, water (park your car in the surf) or coat your chassis/body in a conductive paint (why not just paint it with rust guard).
There have been rulings in the US which deem the claims of such devices as fraudulent and systems sold in the US must now come with disclosure such as "Surface being protected must be completely coated by a conductive film".
I remember a thread, probably a year or more ago on pirate forum discussing this topic at length.
They work on a boat because the salt water is a good conductor and completely covers the hull (except the part of the hull out of the water which must be protected by paint).
They dont work on a vehicle because the vehicle is surounded by air, and air is a shit conductor.
If the surface being protected is not completely surrounded by a good conductor the excess electrons produced by the block of magenesium or electonic cathodic protection system wont work.
I really cannot be bothered digging up all of the science behind this process, but it has been discussed many many times, and every discussion comes down to the fact that the surface being protected MUST be coated by a good conductor. IE, water (park your car in the surf) or coat your chassis/body in a conductive paint (why not just paint it with rust guard).
There have been rulings in the US which deem the claims of such devices as fraudulent and systems sold in the US must now come with disclosure such as "Surface being protected must be completely coated by a conductive film".
I remember a thread, probably a year or more ago on pirate forum discussing this topic at length.
i did it myself. under the guards body dentner painted it on nice and thick and inside the doors and and panels. i used fish oil in a pump bottle that way u can get every where with it. the only problem is it smell fishy for a week or two .and if u think about it oil and water dont mix, so its all good. just make shore your drain hole are clear so it runs out ...to_easy
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