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They can get stuck pretty hard.
INOX is great, but wd40 will help.
Wacking is needed.
I hurt myself severley doing this, for the power steer conversion, so be careful.
I just used 2 of the rubber rag joints for a long time, as my original shaft wasnt collapsible. So if unsuccessful, thats a 2nd idea.
The plastic pegs don't go in far, they are designed to give way in a crash, so your steering wheel don't hit you so hard.
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
i just ended up lubeing the rods with wd40 and placing a long big screw driver up the inside of the shaft. turning it upside down and banging it on the ground. worked a treat.
i moved it a bit over a inch out . how far should it be extended ? i take it if you can just add another rubber rag joint instead . u can just extend it as long as a rubber rag joint is ?
i read " it is best to undo the bracket on the brake hardlines just below where the battery sits. You may have a small hole lower down where this can bolt straight back into after the lift which is the easiest way or you can also just drill your own hole. A body lift itself does not require an extension to the flexible brake lines, these terminate at the chassis, and you haven't altered this relationship with a body lift. "
im looking for this bracket heres a pic of my assembly if someone could tell me what bracket hes talkin about and the new holes to put it into would be awesome.
i just ended up lubeing the rods with wd40 and placing a long big screw driver up the inside of the shaft. turning it upside down and banging it on the ground. worked a treat.
i moved it a bit over a inch out . how far should it be extended ? i take it if you can just add another rubber rag joint instead . u can just extend it as long as a rubber rag joint is ?
Cheers chris.
It's the screwdriver that bit me, went up too far, so on way down I banged hand hard on pointy end of screwdriver
When you fit it back in it will be obvious how far to extend it, just extend it till it reaches both ends properely.
2 rag joints is only if you can't extend it. 1 will be fine, an inch could be about right.
keep lubing and sliding, maybe even sanding, till it moves freely...then when fitting it back in, it will slide easily to correct length.
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
I didnt refasten mine I let them float had no dramas they stay where there ment to I was going to do something later and never got arond to it that was three year ago, just a thought
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/
Some are captive nuts. As long as the thread is same and good, its best to leave them there.
Also some are captive bolts, and the nuts may be for these.
They may have stuck spares in the kit, too.
It will be obvious when you get started.
And if you get into trouble, me or somebody in the zook club could help out, anyway.
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
I did what just criuzin said and when it came to the captive bolts, I blew them out with the oxy, if you dont have an oxy, carefully use a grinder to grind it down then drill whats left and put big thick washers over hole to hold bolts from tearing through floor its the ones under wear your feet go on the floor pan
GU Twin cab TD42T compound turbos
lwb sierra ca18det, 37" "CANT HOLD ON"
lwb sierra g16a, daily driver
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/