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dieseldude wrote:
So does this mean that I measure the hub on say the front of my cruiser, go to the engineering shop (I know of a local trailer component manufacturer), and get the tapers on a heavy duty axle spun up to match to match these bearings?
I think I'd be far more confident in using a 100 series hub with their bearings compared to the off the shelf 'Supercheap' hubs (which I've used in the past).
Has anyone got any clarification about this? It'd be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
NO - it means you go to the wreckers and buy a pair of front hubs, a pair of front (bolt-on) stub axles/spindles (which the hubs run on) and bearings (2nd hand 100 series bearings should still be fine).
You then make/get made two flat steel plates which the stock 100 series spindles/stub axles can bolt to, and you weld these plates onto your axles/suspension arm. Make sure that the method of attaching the plate to the rest of the axle will be approved first though.
On my camp trailer I used Nissan 720, front 2 wheel drive hubs, which I got from the wreckers. The bearings are bigger than ford bearings, I had a local machine shop turn the axils to fit. This gave me the Nissan 6 stud wheel pattern, and I was able to use the disk brakes with a hydraulic override braking system.
1986 Nissan MK Deluxe, 1uzfe quad cam V8, Bull bar, Thomas Winch
Super Oscar Spotlights, Sliders with Body lift, And Long-range Fuel Tanks.
I would 45deg cut all the corners for the frame, then do a full weld around the sides.
Also prep the weld parts by griding 45deg angles and remove any paint it'll stuff up a stick weld, after each pass clean all the black heat off with a hammer/chipping hammer.
If your after full strength do a tripple fillet weld, that is one fillet (weld in the middle then two on each side of the first weld, make sure to clean all the black heat off after each pass other wise it'll weaken the weld.
Don't grind down the weld unless your putting something on it as that can weaken the weld the other 3 sides will hold the frame together.
If you have everything set up prefect the black heat will peal off and you simply brush it off with your hand.
For the frame and A frame use 8mm for your main beam then 5mm RHS for the rest of the frame, 3mm for the other bits.
If all the welds are done well enough the only cracks you'll get is along the steel itself, welds if done proper are usually stronger than the metal itself.
IF your've had cracks on the weld itself then it hasn't been welded correctly.
dieseldude wrote:That's excellent. Cheers for that! It makes a lot more sense to me now.
I'm going to set about starting this over the Xmas break so I'll keep you all posted with how it comes along.
Cheers
Anthony.
Dont fall into the same mistake i did , buy all of your components prior to christmass. as i found last year most shop dealing with trailer part did not re-open until the second week in january.
