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Help with moving diff - steering
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Help with moving diff - steering
Howdy, my lux has a nasty habit of the front weels rubbing (sometimes quite hard) on the lower rear of the front guards. It only has 33" MTR's, and a 3" body lift, stock springs.
I was looking into moving my front diff forward about an inch or so, but I noticed that it mould seem to have more lock towards the left than the right ( at least thats what I worked out).
Is there a way of doing this to keep the steering normal, well as normal as possible ( it steers like a wheelbarow with a flat tyre), is there a adjustable drag link or pitmant arm or something available?
Any help would be very much appreciated
cheers, Jono
I was looking into moving my front diff forward about an inch or so, but I noticed that it mould seem to have more lock towards the left than the right ( at least thats what I worked out).
Is there a way of doing this to keep the steering normal, well as normal as possible ( it steers like a wheelbarow with a flat tyre), is there a adjustable drag link or pitmant arm or something available?
Any help would be very much appreciated
cheers, Jono
YN65 X-Tra cab, 33's, 3" body lift otherwise stock. (the brumby got stolen)
ONE OF THE FRONT SPRING PERCHES HAVE AN EXTRA HOLE,MATCH THIS ON THE OTHER SIDE AND I THINK YOU GAIN 3/4 .AN ADJUSTABLE DIFF LOCATOR AND DRG LINK ARE AVAILABLE,I THINK SNAKE HAS THEM.HAVE YOU TRIED BELTING THE BODY SEAM AND FIREWALL A LITTLE?OR ADJUSTING YOUR STEERING STOPS ON THE BACK OF THE KNUCKLES,DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SPEND.AND HOW BAD THE RUBBING IS. GOOD LUCK
get new front main leaves made up custom, get them to drill the hole 50mm forward
use your old leaves to make up a pack with these main leaves
adjustable drag link
and shorten the torque rod
your 33's wont rub then.
you wont be able to redrill the perches to gain another 35mm forward without modifying the steering (x over).
use your old leaves to make up a pack with these main leaves
adjustable drag link
and shorten the torque rod
your 33's wont rub then.
you wont be able to redrill the perches to gain another 35mm forward without modifying the steering (x over).
Yurich Design Services
www.yds.net.au
www.yds.net.au
Did this last week and works fine,there is a little bit of playing around with the bump stops but that about itTOYTRUK wrote:ONE OF THE FRONT SPRING PERCHES HAVE AN EXTRA HOLE,MATCH THIS ON THE OTHER SIDE AND I THINK YOU GAIN 3/4 .AN ADJUSTABLE DIFF LOCATOR AND DRG LINK ARE AVAILABLE,I THINK SNAKE HAS THEM.HAVE YOU TRIED BELTING THE BODY SEAM AND FIREWALL A LITTLE?OR ADJUSTING YOUR STEERING STOPS ON THE BACK OF THE KNUCKLES,DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SPEND.AND HOW BAD THE RUBBING IS. GOOD LUCK
I to have done this last week and all is good,but I wish to do cross over steering,I have got hold of a IFS steering box but it looks like it will hit the spring pack with the drag link?the box will run down the out side of the chassis is this correct or do I need a different model to run down the inside to clear the spring?any help would be good,also do I need a bigger lift then 2" for it to work?bastard wrote:Did this last week and works fine,there is a little bit of playing around with the bump stops but that about itTOYTRUK wrote:ONE OF THE FRONT SPRING PERCHES HAVE AN EXTRA HOLE,MATCH THIS ON THE OTHER SIDE AND I THINK YOU GAIN 3/4 .AN ADJUSTABLE DIFF LOCATOR AND DRG LINK ARE AVAILABLE,I THINK SNAKE HAS THEM.HAVE YOU TRIED BELTING THE BODY SEAM AND FIREWALL A LITTLE?OR ADJUSTING YOUR STEERING STOPS ON THE BACK OF THE KNUCKLES,DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SPEND.AND HOW BAD THE RUBBING IS. GOOD LUCK
I reckon get a large hammer and roll the seam, so then the tyre will
only rub, not cut the crap out of your MTR's but I tell you that every
time we go out 4Bin' and you still haven't done it HAVE YOU!!
only rub, not cut the crap out of your MTR's but I tell you that every
time we go out 4Bin' and you still haven't done it HAVE YOU!!
GQ Patrol, TB42, 7" spring, 2" body and 37" MTR's, factory locker
and alot of cutting with the angle grinder!
GU Patrol, 2.8 turbo diesel Daily Driver
and alot of cutting with the angle grinder!
GU Patrol, 2.8 turbo diesel Daily Driver
Thanks again Adam (LET54B), but i was looking at the "Body friendly" method of NOT USING a hammer, mallet or any other blunt metallic objects. No grinders either you butcher!!!
Thanks TOYTRUK, I Will look into that wahe I get a chance
Thanks TOYTRUK, I Will look into that wahe I get a chance
YN65 X-Tra cab, 33's, 3" body lift otherwise stock. (the brumby got stolen)
i forgot to add, the reason i came to this conclusion was i wanted to do a u bolt flip on the front, which is why the standard steering wouldnt work, just need to modify the bumpstop as stated with the standard u-bolts and you should be able to do it.Drop Bear wrote:get new front main leaves made up custom, get them to drill the hole 50mm forward
use your old leaves to make up a pack with these main leaves
adjustable drag link
and shorten the torque rod
your 33's wont rub then.
you wont be able to redrill the perches to gain another 35mm forward without modifying the steering (x over).
Yurich Design Services
www.yds.net.au
www.yds.net.au
Thanks Drop Bear, and everyone.
I have already got an adjustable torque rod but Snake, overkill, and the rest of the aftermarket adaptor makers charge worse than a wounded bull on speed!!! is there a cheaper option to correct the steering? (no hammers!)
Will the shock bushes be 'greatly' affected by this??
I have already got an adjustable torque rod but Snake, overkill, and the rest of the aftermarket adaptor makers charge worse than a wounded bull on speed!!! is there a cheaper option to correct the steering? (no hammers!)
Will the shock bushes be 'greatly' affected by this??
YN65 X-Tra cab, 33's, 3" body lift otherwise stock. (the brumby got stolen)
The drop drag link that bbm or snake sells can be moddified,roger brown on his 4crawler site has info on how he did his.i think it involves un screwing the ends and cutting a little off both ends of the main rod.i guess about 1/4 inch each end. which allows you to adjust everything back to center. hope that helps mate.
unsure about shock angle at worst it will chew the bushes up a little.if you have access to a welder you could always move the lower bracket back a little.
unsure about shock angle at worst it will chew the bushes up a little.if you have access to a welder you could always move the lower bracket back a little.
as for the shockie just mount it to the rear of the original mount and put a spacer in to stop it crushing, fit a longer high tensile bolt and all is sweet.Depending on your shock size it may rub on the j arm when nearing full lock,I have just done this on mine and will be going to cross over but im fitting 37" tyresTOYTRUK wrote:The drop drag link that bbm or snake sells can be moddified,roger brown on his 4crawler site has info on how he did his.i think it involves un screwing the ends and cutting a little off both ends of the main rod.i guess about 1/4 inch each end. which allows you to adjust everything back to center. hope that helps mate.
unsure about shock angle at worst it will chew the bushes up a little.if you have access to a welder you could always move the lower bracket back a little.
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