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Acute uni-joint angle - Cheap solutions?
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Acute uni-joint angle - Cheap solutions?
flex up the rear of my truck today to make sure my park brake cables were ok, which they were, but instead found that the top uni binds up.
i know i can get a custom shaft from Dobbin for about $800, but the budget is getting very tight now trying to finish it for tuff truck.
any sugestions for a cheaper alternative, using a cv or cardin joint, that i can do?
i know i can get a custom shaft from Dobbin for about $800, but the budget is getting very tight now trying to finish it for tuff truck.
any sugestions for a cheaper alternative, using a cv or cardin joint, that i can do?
HoldFast RocKrawlin
may not have to worry
Usually one wheel will be up while the other is dropped, so you won't ever put the uni through that angle. Wait until you ramp it to see if it binds and then, if you need to, you can run a limiting strap to the middle of your diff.
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
A limiting strap in the middle will stop dropout like that but will not affect side to side articulation much if anything. so you can still get you diffs all crossed up like \ or / but not _
The rear of that tub is also looking quite cool ...
The rear of that tub is also looking quite cool ...
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
You might get more travel out of the UJs by easing out the 'gussets' with a die grinder, but not that much to fix the angle you have there I suspect, and under load the whole lot is likely to fail cause of the acute angle.
Double C joints will give more angle and are stronger cause they spread the load across two UJs. 60 series DS might be worth a go.
Another option is to make up your own CV-based drive shaft, or to limit full drop as already said.
Double C joints will give more angle and are stronger cause they spread the load across two UJs. 60 series DS might be worth a go.
Another option is to make up your own CV-based drive shaft, or to limit full drop as already said.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
It will be crap because the 2 shafts are so far out of sync, you will end up destroying the joint in no time flat.redzook wrote:pretty sure the single uni he has on there now will operate at a higher angle then a double cardan
can you explaing why a limiting strap is no good?
A limiting strap is no good because it does excactly that, limit the suspension. However, in Mark's situation its a good tempory fix if he cannot fix the driveline issue. If it was my 40 and had no budget restraints I would fix the driveline issue and leave the suspension to do its thing "unlimited".
\m/
...I have one of those 'dobbin' style shafts sitting on the floor of my garage... well, bits of one anyway.
I have the CV end, including the (massively long!) slip joint. Also have a spare CV. Those should be the expensive bits I reckon. You'll have to get it built to suit though.
If you are interested in buying them PM me.
S.
I have the CV end, including the (massively long!) slip joint. Also have a spare CV. Those should be the expensive bits I reckon. You'll have to get it built to suit though.
If you are interested in buying them PM me.
S.
www.TeamFireBug.com
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
good point. There is barely enough suspension droop as it is. Limiting it by an inch or so to stop the unis binding will make a huge differance to the trucks performanceA limiting strap is no good because it does excactly that, limit the suspension. However, in Mark's situation its a good tempory fix if he cannot fix the driveline issue. If it was my 40 and had no budget restraints I would fix the driveline issue and leave the suspension to do its thing "unlimited".
How about some offset U-joints?
10 degrees more per joint than standard and you can get a little more if you get busy with the grinder
http://www.4xshaft.com/Super-Flex.html
10 degrees more per joint than standard and you can get a little more if you get busy with the grinder
http://www.4xshaft.com/Super-Flex.html
lolGribble wrote:It will be crap because the 2 shafts are so far out of sync, you will end up destroying the joint in no time flat.redzook wrote:pretty sure the single uni he has on there now will operate at a higher angle then a double cardan
can you explaing why a limiting strap is no good?
A limiting strap is no good because it does excactly that, limit the suspension. However, in Mark's situation its a good tempory fix if he cannot fix the driveline issue. If it was my 40 and had no budget restraints I would fix the driveline issue and leave the suspension to do its thing "unlimited".
u notice it is at full droop how often do u think it is gunna be at full droop not very often so i dont think he has to worry about destroying the uni
have u eva seen a limit strap being used ? set up properly the only thing it stops is droop wich is what he needs
also go to a werock event every buggy has a winch on the front and most on the back to hold the diffs from drooping to far
but they must have just went this way cos they couldnt afford a good shaft eh
Road Ranger
yes a winch not a strap this alows the driver to vary how much the diff is limited to control body roll, tramp etc. you can not creat a prellell to a winch on the front of a buggy and a strap on the rear of the 40 to stop the uni binding.redzook wrote:
also go to a werock event every buggy has a winch on the front and most on the back to hold the diffs from drooping to far
but they must have just went this way cos they couldnt afford a good shaft eh
That said, I think a strap is the cheapest easiest short term solution
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
A Hilux DC joint wont go to the same angle as a stock Cruiser Uni so that isnt going to fix it.Gribble wrote:Double cardan off a Hilux front shaft. Dont run a limiting strap, its like tying one hand behind your back.
DC joints are not usually made to run at higher angles but to help take out vibrations from shafts running at higher than normal.
You will notice that there are not many vehicles with big flex running DC joints.
Grind the Ears of the shaft and run a limmiting strap in the centre.
Or convert to an early range rover Square flange shaft with a Tom Woods Offset SuperJoint 1310 uni. ZZZ posted the link above. With a small amount of machining on the back of the toyota flange and re-drilling it will fit. I run one of these in the back of my buggy with 18" shocks and get full droop out of it.
I said its not a bad soloution but its not the best. What if he bellys out and the limiting strap doesn't allow both rear wheels to reach far enough downwards to get some forward traction happening? Theres one scenario where a limiting strap is bad.redzook wrote:lolGribble wrote:It will be crap because the 2 shafts are so far out of sync, you will end up destroying the joint in no time flat.redzook wrote:pretty sure the single uni he has on there now will operate at a higher angle then a double cardan
can you explaing why a limiting strap is no good?
A limiting strap is no good because it does excactly that, limit the suspension. However, in Mark's situation its a good tempory fix if he cannot fix the driveline issue. If it was my 40 and had no budget restraints I would fix the driveline issue and leave the suspension to do its thing "unlimited".
u notice it is at full droop how often do u think it is gunna be at full droop not very often so i dont think he has to worry about destroying the uni
have u eva seen a limit strap being used ? set up properly the only thing it stops is droop wich is what he needs
also go to a werock event every buggy has a winch on the front and most on the back to hold the diffs from drooping to far
but they must have just went this way cos they couldnt afford a good shaft eh
Last edited by Gribble on Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
\m/
I run Tom Woods Super Flex joints (1350's) on the FireBug too... on the diff end of both the front and rear shafts. Got them through Sean at ABT4x4.
Without them, with the 16" shocks fully edxtended, the uni joint binds and goes bang... ala WE Rock finals this year...
S.
Without them, with the 16" shocks fully edxtended, the uni joint binds and goes bang... ala WE Rock finals this year...
S.
www.TeamFireBug.com
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
I very much doubt that these guys offer a cheap solution.... but I thought I would share with everyone something that we might be seeing in high-angle applications in the future.
http://cvcoupling.com/
They are based in Orange, NSW, and have a potentially very usefull invention.
Matt
http://cvcoupling.com/
They are based in Orange, NSW, and have a potentially very usefull invention.
Matt
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