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Vendors of weld on bead lock rings
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Vendors of weld on bead lock rings
I know OnAll4, CORE, BBOffRoad, Snake and M&M Engineering make beadlock rings. Who else makes them? What are their prices?
How do they compare to each other (strength, materials, sharp edges...)? What's the best bang for buck option?
How do they compare to each other (strength, materials, sharp edges...)? What's the best bang for buck option?
Re: Vendors of weld on bead lock rings
what about internal beadlocks??
Do they compare with externals?
Do they compare with externals?
From my limited experience the way to go about this is to choose the tyre you want to run and then hunt down the beadlocker that fits the application, ie the tyre size/sidewall. The beadlocker needs to fit the tyre and visa-versa.
No beadlocker in Australia is ADR'd as far as I know, for on-road use. Which rules out getting to and from comps on those rims.
"But Officer, the rims are stamped inside with an ADR approved! Do you want to remove the rim, deflate the tyre and remove it here in the rain to check the stamp???"
Internals are expensive, a prick to fit and balance and may not be all that effective. Very effective in emptying your wallet. If you have a puncture "on road" then imagine the crap you have to go through just for a repair....
Beadlockers are needed for continuing rock work or where the steering tyres are continually subjected to side stress. (Opps, I hit the gutter dear! Can I go shopping now?) These stresses are rarely seen in rear tyres as they are not presented against tree stumps and rocks in a steering application.
Getting to the end. Ever thought about tubes???? You might spin the valve out - but that can happen anyhow. How low do you really need to go with tyres pressures? Or is that a "blokey" thing?
All points raised in respect to good discussion....
No beadlocker in Australia is ADR'd as far as I know, for on-road use. Which rules out getting to and from comps on those rims.
"But Officer, the rims are stamped inside with an ADR approved! Do you want to remove the rim, deflate the tyre and remove it here in the rain to check the stamp???"
Internals are expensive, a prick to fit and balance and may not be all that effective. Very effective in emptying your wallet. If you have a puncture "on road" then imagine the crap you have to go through just for a repair....
Beadlockers are needed for continuing rock work or where the steering tyres are continually subjected to side stress. (Opps, I hit the gutter dear! Can I go shopping now?) These stresses are rarely seen in rear tyres as they are not presented against tree stumps and rocks in a steering application.
Getting to the end. Ever thought about tubes???? You might spin the valve out - but that can happen anyhow. How low do you really need to go with tyres pressures? Or is that a "blokey" thing?
All points raised in respect to good discussion....
Non-funded retiree.
OzJeeper wrote:From my limited experience the way to go about this is to choose the tyre you want to run and then hunt down the beadlocker that fits the application, ie the tyre size/sidewall. The beadlocker needs to fit the tyre and visa-versa.
No beadlocker in Australia is ADR'd as far as I know, for on-road use. Which rules out getting to and from comps on those rims.
"But Officer, the rims are stamped inside with an ADR approved! Do you want to remove the rim, deflate the tyre and remove it here in the rain to check the stamp???"
I decided this wasn't much of an issue for me since i'm already running swampers - which are also no ADR approved.
OzJeeper wrote:Getting to the end. Ever thought about tubes???? You might spin the valve out - but that can happen anyhow. How low do you really need to go with tyres pressures? Or is that a "blokey" thing?
I don't think that tubes perform the same job - what they will do is stop you from getting slow leaks when you have mud / dirt in the bead of the tyre. But in the event of a puncture I believe you'll need to unseat the tyre from on of the beads and remove the tube before fitting another tube / valve stem.
I run my tyres at 5 or so psi - they work well at this pressure. Another fellow in the suzuki club runs his swampers at 2 - 3psi and has lost the inner bead a few times...
But i have to agree that they are an expensive modification to add to your car.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Re: Vendors of weld on bead lock rings
N*A*M wrote:I know OnAll4, CORE, BBOffRoad, Snake and M&M Engineering make beadlock rings. Who else makes them? What are their prices?
How do they compare to each other (strength, materials, sharp edges...)? What's the best bang for buck option?
Check out the new 4wd monthly - there is an ad near the back for a company up in QLD that also make them that i hadn't heard of until now.
There is also Oz-Wheels i think (Sydney?). And don't Eastern Wheel Works (down near Phillip Island) do them too?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
I recall a vendor selling them at last years Wandin for $100 a throw (both rings, not sure about nuts/bolts) and I believe they were PGS but you'll have to give them a ring to confirm.
Cheers.
PS. Just went to their site http://www.pgs4wd.com.au/ but it looks like they've closed it, I guess that prob means the business is gone too.
Cheers.
PS. Just went to their site http://www.pgs4wd.com.au/ but it looks like they've closed it, I guess that prob means the business is gone too.
KRiS
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