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Body lifting and roll cage
Moderator: Micka
Body lifting and roll cage
I'm doing my own body lift. Can i get away with welding heavy wall tube to the chassis and the washer to the top or does it have to be solid? Can i use normal mild steel tube for my cage? Where the rear diagonal from main hoop passes back seat will it be too close to pass engineers report.
'78 2 door Rangie, 3.9L , 2" body, 4" long travel, 35s, rear locker, disco auto, caged. GQ 4.2 18psi, 5" lift, ARB lockers, 33s,
might need to check in your own State, but here in Tassie poly blocks are still OK (I think), and solid or thick walled tube is OK too. I'd avoid welding them to the chssis (they will crack, and u may weaken the chassis). instead use some diagonal braces either fixed to, or welded to the body lift blocks to brace/bolt back to the chassis. Two either side is good enough to stop excessive body movement.
Can't help with the cage, but mild steel is probably not going to be strong enough, or if it is, then it may end up being too big/heavy.
Can't help with the cage, but mild steel is probably not going to be strong enough, or if it is, then it may end up being too big/heavy.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
body lift wise, just get hold of a metre of 50 solid alloy tube - won't cost you bugger all, and you'll have leftovers. cut to your desired length, drill through the centre and away you go. If you have access to a lathe, makes it even easier, but its not entirely necessary - just makes getting the holes through the centre vertical a lot easier.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
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