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v8 lux
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
v8 lux
hey guys.
i am looking at a conversion for my new '84 lux (it will be used for winch challenging and weekend warrioring);
1uz, th400R (or th700r) and a patrol transfer, the conversion adapters can be purchased
what do you think?? is it worth going to the patrol transfer, i will be running 35 simex and coil suspension with probally either dana44 or patrol diffs.
also could anyone recomend an enginner in melbourne, i have a list but yet to ring around. thanks
luke
i am looking at a conversion for my new '84 lux (it will be used for winch challenging and weekend warrioring);
1uz, th400R (or th700r) and a patrol transfer, the conversion adapters can be purchased
what do you think?? is it worth going to the patrol transfer, i will be running 35 simex and coil suspension with probally either dana44 or patrol diffs.
also could anyone recomend an enginner in melbourne, i have a list but yet to ring around. thanks
luke
hey mate i've got an 84 extra cab hilux which i'm abotu to do similar conversion to. mines gettin a 308 or a 333 stroker holden v8 with turbo 350 and twin hilux transfer cases. i'm not going injected however cause i'm running straight gas.
my opinion unless your gonna run big power keep the hilux transfer but still go with gq or gu diffs if u can afford. i'll hopefully be running up a 38'5" tyre so hoping everything holds up
my opinion unless your gonna run big power keep the hilux transfer but still go with gq or gu diffs if u can afford. i'll hopefully be running up a 38'5" tyre so hoping everything holds up
84lux-project. A-frame, 350 chev, turbo 350 auto, duals, rears up front, crossover, twin locked and a 118" wheelbase
i have finally settled on what i want after reading more of this forum and some of the members cars.
lexus v8
auto
twin transfers
80s front diff
ifs rear diff (to gain track)
all coil
wondering which auto would be the best?? haven't had much dealings with autos. TH350, TH400, TH700R or the lexus auto????
alos i though i read a post on the fitting of the 80s diff with the control arms fitted to the top of the diff instead of the bottom but carn't find it, can anyone help???
thanks
luke
lexus v8
auto
twin transfers
80s front diff
ifs rear diff (to gain track)
all coil
wondering which auto would be the best?? haven't had much dealings with autos. TH350, TH400, TH700R or the lexus auto????
alos i though i read a post on the fitting of the 80s diff with the control arms fitted to the top of the diff instead of the bottom but carn't find it, can anyone help???
thanks
luke
There are 2 reasons why running an auto behind the 1uz is bad.
One is the location of the starter motor. If you are out in the bush and the starter shits its self then its not an easy thing to unbolt and replace, or even get to to give it a tap, remember you have an auto so no tow/roll starting it.
Two is the fact that there is not a strong enough auto (thats affordable atm) that will bolt straight up to it without adaptors. Then if you still want to run a hilux tcase then you need another adaptor to go to that.
If I was going to run an auto behind my 1uz I`d be using an auto and tcase from a 80 series and MAKE it fit under the hilux tunnell.
One is the location of the starter motor. If you are out in the bush and the starter shits its self then its not an easy thing to unbolt and replace, or even get to to give it a tap, remember you have an auto so no tow/roll starting it.
Two is the fact that there is not a strong enough auto (thats affordable atm) that will bolt straight up to it without adaptors. Then if you still want to run a hilux tcase then you need another adaptor to go to that.
If I was going to run an auto behind my 1uz I`d be using an auto and tcase from a 80 series and MAKE it fit under the hilux tunnell.
For a comp truck and weekend warrior, out bush probably isn't much of an issue. But while we are on the subject, 1UZ starter motors are not something you can buy for a few $ for the sake of having a spare. They are expensive. So you would need to find a convenient parts store with very good and unique selection to change the starter out bush.Guts wrote:There are 2 reasons why running an auto behind the 1uz is bad.
One is the location of the starter motor. If you are out in the bush and the starter shits its self then its not an easy thing to unbolt and replace, or even get to to give it a tap, remember you have an auto so no tow/roll starting it.
Apart from the auto that Toyota released with it? Venom charged $500 to mate my Toyo TCase to a 1UZ Auto and it bolted up easy. The UZ ECU will control it without any problems because of the following.Guts wrote: Two is the fact that there is not a strong enough auto (thats affordable atm) that will bolt straight up to it without adaptors. Then if you still want to run a hilux tcase then you need another adaptor to go to that.
If I was going to run an auto behind my 1uz I`d be using an auto and tcase from a 80 series and MAKE it fit under the hilux tunnell.
There is the consideration that no vehicle has ever been released from the factory with both a 1UZ engine and a manual transmission. These things where always made to have autos.
My 2c anyway, and I am a very strong supporter of autos as the best 4WD transmission. My conversion should be on the road shortly so can show it to you racer. (I used the 1UZ transmission, my TCase and have to give alot of the credit to Scott from Venom - if you need an expert to talk to).
Hay I`m not against autos, in fact I bloody love em. Its just that without spending some largish amounts of money you can not get a strong auto behind a 1uz with a GEAR driven tcase behind that. The reason for having a gear driven case is so you can add reduction gears to it to bring the 1uz`s torque down to where you can use it at slow speeds.
I guess for Racer, who does want a comp truck, that is an important reason.
I didn't think the part of the starter motor would be and a weekend warrior doesn't need to worry too much about the kind of gearing you are talking about (unless he wants to).
Certainly ny way is not expensive. I am selling a UZ Auto for $200, and it cost $500 to get the one in my truck modded. So $700 plus a surf TCase and it is done. That assumed you don't already have any parts.
I didn't think the part of the starter motor would be and a weekend warrior doesn't need to worry too much about the kind of gearing you are talking about (unless he wants to).
Certainly ny way is not expensive. I am selling a UZ Auto for $200, and it cost $500 to get the one in my truck modded. So $700 plus a surf TCase and it is done. That assumed you don't already have any parts.
power I disagree with ... The same engine, etc.
Tyres, lockers and terrain - you may have a point.
But I have a very strong and logical defence against that comment.
it is however, in my other briefcase. So in conclusion, I haven't heard anyone actually with a UZ Auto in a 4x4 complain.
Oh and smpththspcth (thats the noise my mouth makes when I poke my tongue out and blow
Tyres, lockers and terrain - you may have a point.
But I have a very strong and logical defence against that comment.
it is however, in my other briefcase. So in conclusion, I haven't heard anyone actually with a UZ Auto in a 4x4 complain.
Oh and smpththspcth (thats the noise my mouth makes when I poke my tongue out and blow
I'd have to qgree with Guts.
Forget using a mini Toy auto.
I had one hooked to my Ford V8 for 7 years and although it never gave me any major problems from a strength point of view the torque convertors are crap and only suited for the cafe' set in their luxury limo's. They are just way too small for 4wd use.
I even swapped in a T700 convertor to the Toy auto, which wasn't easy and it transformed it but it later developed a seal leak so I couldn't trust it for long trips so I ditched it.
I then swapped in a lexus V8 converter but it is still only a little converter compared to a C4 or T700's.
My V8 would easily overpower the stall and ark it up with consequent trans oil temps etc, which I managed to control, but all in all the Toy auto scenario is a complete waste of time and money.
I then went for a 5 speed and the difference is chalk and cheese.
For slow comp work with the Toy autp you will have major cooling issues to overcome. The 1UZ doesn't have a lot of bottom end but with gears it could be made better so a 5 speed would be useable and a much better proposition.
Forget using a mini Toy auto.
I had one hooked to my Ford V8 for 7 years and although it never gave me any major problems from a strength point of view the torque convertors are crap and only suited for the cafe' set in their luxury limo's. They are just way too small for 4wd use.
I even swapped in a T700 convertor to the Toy auto, which wasn't easy and it transformed it but it later developed a seal leak so I couldn't trust it for long trips so I ditched it.
I then swapped in a lexus V8 converter but it is still only a little converter compared to a C4 or T700's.
My V8 would easily overpower the stall and ark it up with consequent trans oil temps etc, which I managed to control, but all in all the Toy auto scenario is a complete waste of time and money.
I then went for a 5 speed and the difference is chalk and cheese.
For slow comp work with the Toy autp you will have major cooling issues to overcome. The 1UZ doesn't have a lot of bottom end but with gears it could be made better so a 5 speed would be useable and a much better proposition.
they reason i was looking at auto's was because i can use the th700r behind the lexus motor and then go to a gear driven transfer case.
i DO want a gear driven transfer case
is there anyreal problem with running v8,adapter,th700r, adapter transfer???
other than the cost??
the reason i was looking at the auto was ease to drive blah blah blah , but also getting a 5speed to hold up would nesseitate a dyna box (which from marks is around $2700). i do give drivetrain's a hard time.
i agree that if the starter fails i will be up the creek, but such is the problems with auto's.
thanks
luke
i DO want a gear driven transfer case
is there anyreal problem with running v8,adapter,th700r, adapter transfer???
other than the cost??
the reason i was looking at the auto was ease to drive blah blah blah , but also getting a 5speed to hold up would nesseitate a dyna box (which from marks is around $2700). i do give drivetrain's a hard time.
i agree that if the starter fails i will be up the creek, but such is the problems with auto's.
thanks
luke
hay racer..have you herd ol Laurrie Sternback
drives dulecab lux with lexus v8 & auto
competes in, & comes home at the pointy
end of the field too regueraly in events as
OBC,xtreme winch,ateco,QLD winch,allterain ect..
ask Shaun Calicino (owner of S/E 4x4 at nerange,
on Gold Coast) he built it & knows the FORS &
AGAINSTS first hand, esp water proofing & comp
proofing....all the best.......PIGLET..........
drives dulecab lux with lexus v8 & auto
competes in, & comes home at the pointy
end of the field too regueraly in events as
OBC,xtreme winch,ateco,QLD winch,allterain ect..
ask Shaun Calicino (owner of S/E 4x4 at nerange,
on Gold Coast) he built it & knows the FORS &
AGAINSTS first hand, esp water proofing & comp
proofing....all the best.......PIGLET..........
Yep I'd agree the auto's are hard to beat for slow climbing work etc and with transfer gears descent wouldn't be too bad. But a low geared manual would also have benefits.backyard_racer wrote:t........the reason i was looking at the auto was ease to drive blah blah blah
Aaaaagh we won't go into the Mark's $2700 for a Dyna etc but if you consider that would do the job then you know what a Dyna box is don't you ?? Its only an R series in a cast casing , ie R452 so any R series is exactly the same in strength, ie R150/151 and they aren't $2700, but also getting a 5speed to hold up would nesseitate a dyna box (which from marks is around $2700). i do give drivetrain's a hard time......
The Dyna version also uses a crap gear selection but if you want the dyna first gear ratio get a Dyna and swap all its iternals into a normal R150/151 so you get the low 5.14 first but have the normal R series gear selector etc.
Dyna boxes are not hard to find and aren't expensive. I got one off eBay awhile back for $250 I think .
But the only benefit using a dyna is to get the lower first gear, ie 5.14 versus the 4.31 in the R151. A change in diff gears would give you more so really I'd be just looking at using an R151 and its all a simple straight bolt up and with no heat issues All you need is the bell and you can then get a Marks adapter to mate up a gear transfer so all is sweet.
The R series is a strong trans and you would have to be a real abuser to lunch one. I'm using a R154 and my V8 has WAY more grunt than a 1UZ.
The R series swap to a 1UZ is simple as bells are readily available as are R series trans.
I'm looking at the same conversion for my lux. I was thinking of following a conversion from the states witch used the auto out of the surf with the bell, input shaft and oil pump out of the 1uz auto. There are also HEAPS of how to's on the internet (read lextreme.com) to make the A340 series (surf and lexus auto) tranny's stronger and more efficient for next to nothing.
I agree that u still need to pay extra for an adaptor from marlin's to go back to the gear driven transfer (as next i will be getting reduction gears or deul transfers), but by my calculations the auto will still be cheaper than going the R15* series and the standard 1uz ecu will control it all.
I agree that u still need to pay extra for an adaptor from marlin's to go back to the gear driven transfer (as next i will be getting reduction gears or deul transfers), but by my calculations the auto will still be cheaper than going the R15* series and the standard 1uz ecu will control it all.
Your choice but you have been warned I will put any amount of money on it that at the end of the day it will cost you a lot more than you think.
I also had the Lexus converters high stall extensively modified as well but it was still useless and easy to overcome and flare up and you moved nowhere.
But maybe with the lower HP 1UZ it will be fine
You may have to trick the Lexus ECU as the Lexus auto has an extra solenoid
I also had the Lexus converters high stall extensively modified as well but it was still useless and easy to overcome and flare up and you moved nowhere.
But maybe with the lower HP 1UZ it will be fine
You may have to trick the Lexus ECU as the Lexus auto has an extra solenoid
I went that way initially (modifying my Surf Auto) and changed to modify my UZ auto. Give it a shot if you like but I recommend you PM me and I will give you my number - happy to share my lesson learnt.diby_2000 wrote:I'm looking at the same conversion for my lux. I was thinking of following a conversion from the states witch used the auto out of the surf with the bell, input shaft and oil pump out of the 1uz auto. There are also HEAPS of how to's on the internet (read lextreme.com) to make the A340 series (surf and lexus auto) tranny's stronger and more efficient for next to nothing.
I agree that u still need to pay extra for an adaptor from marlin's to go back to the gear driven transfer (as next i will be getting reduction gears or deul transfers), but by my calculations the auto will still be cheaper than going the R15* series and the standard 1uz ecu will control it all.
lexus auto
I may be wrong but isn't the A434F the same trannie as in 2lte surfs, v8 cruisers, T/D Prados etc, I think with all autos the cooling in the absolute key element and as for tranfer cases, It appears the R series gear driven transfer case can be used, just check with that marlin crawlers site.
It will be the old price versus cost, I think that if you fit the biggers torque converter you can in there it would be a wise move, as mentioned previously.
It will be the old price versus cost, I think that if you fit the biggers torque converter you can in there it would be a wise move, as mentioned previously.
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