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Calbah 5link for Range Rovers
Moderator: Micka
Calbah 5link for Range Rovers
Hey does anyone have any comments on the front 5links?
I would love to see some pictures of how it all works and what needs to be done. Does it utilise the original front radius arms at all???
cheers people
I would love to see some pictures of how it all works and what needs to be done. Does it utilise the original front radius arms at all???
cheers people
OK, here come the questions:
1. How much does it cost?
2. Is it bolt-on or weld on?
3. Does it have ANY negatives onroad at high-speed?
1. How much does it cost?
2. Is it bolt-on or weld on?
3. Does it have ANY negatives onroad at high-speed?
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
They are a full weld in kit and handle well on road.
I think he sells the kits for around $2500 installed
but it would be best to contact Chester at Calbah directly to talk price.
http://www.calbah.com/calbah.htm
I think he sells the kits for around $2500 installed
but it would be best to contact Chester at Calbah directly to talk price.
http://www.calbah.com/calbah.htm
TUFFRR - I like the idea of the bolt on kits personally, I am gonna try obtain a second hand SG 3link or brand new depending on cost. But if all that fails I might have to accept you proposal
I typed this in another post but does anyone know the OZ distributer for SG 3link (if there is one) or even better does anyone have one second they might want to sell me????
I typed this in another post but does anyone know the OZ distributer for SG 3link (if there is one) or even better does anyone have one second they might want to sell me????
The centre link is better on the lower part of the diff housing as its clears the engine more on full up travel. And having the two radius arms up top also puts less strain on the radius arm joints.
I really do like the SG kit but like everyone seems to say its not cheap stuff.
Bill mentioned that he mounts the centre link closer to the passenger side (so as to clear the engine sump) He also noted that he does not manufacture (sell) his 3 link setup, but he was quiet happy to tell me how it all worked and is sending me some pics.
I dont know about you guys but I still want the SG 3 Link
I really do like the SG kit but like everyone seems to say its not cheap stuff.
Bill mentioned that he mounts the centre link closer to the passenger side (so as to clear the engine sump) He also noted that he does not manufacture (sell) his 3 link setup, but he was quiet happy to tell me how it all worked and is sending me some pics.
I dont know about you guys but I still want the SG 3 Link
TuffRR wrote:Bodge - are those photos the underneath of the silver RR ute that was in the NZ challenge??
If so, you said that it struggled a bit in that event because of its setup not being ideal for the terrain??
Yep thats the one. Its a well set up truck but I think he really intended it for Tuff Truck styled RC events rather than Winch Challenges. A lot of the off camber stuff threatened to put it on its side and there are a couple of classic video moments where the crew were a bit freaked by the pitch and roll...
I think it essentially about the height [COG] and the flex of that 3 link.
Don't forget it has a 4" body lift too....
The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark."
Here's my feeling (for what the hell it is worth!):
If I were to go for a rock-crawler uniquely, meaning that my fastest speed would be 5km/h OFFROAD, I'd go with a 3-link.
If I were to go for an allround offroad performance truck (challenges, comps...), I'd stick to the Rover set-up, which, after all, is not really THAT bad when put to the longest shocks you can put there.
Just my feeling...
If I were to go for a rock-crawler uniquely, meaning that my fastest speed would be 5km/h OFFROAD, I'd go with a 3-link.
If I were to go for an allround offroad performance truck (challenges, comps...), I'd stick to the Rover set-up, which, after all, is not really THAT bad when put to the longest shocks you can put there.
Just my feeling...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
i'm with you Dino
It all depends on what sort of wheeling you will be doing.. the Rover front can be made to work reasonably well just be drilling the bushes, some decent length shocks and retained springs...
If all you want is a ramp bitch, then fair enough, go the 5 link
Look at how many Rangies have won comps in Oz and Malaysia... AFAIK they all run pretty basic setups.
It all depends on what sort of wheeling you will be doing.. the Rover front can be made to work reasonably well just be drilling the bushes, some decent length shocks and retained springs...
If all you want is a ramp bitch, then fair enough, go the 5 link
Look at how many Rangies have won comps in Oz and Malaysia... AFAIK they all run pretty basic setups.
Landy...and I agree with you for agreeing with me!
Anyways, I vouch for systems like Simon Buck's...off-the-shelf OME units for dependable, yet effective suspension. That is what I finally have. Still working on those rear shocks.
I have seen WAY too many Landies with stock articualtion in cross-axled situation (with lockers) having a see-saw effect when they lift a tire and then land dramatically on it. I am all for having all for tires on the ground through smart articulation...its far more stable...STABLE...that is what we need to go for...
Anyways, I vouch for systems like Simon Buck's...off-the-shelf OME units for dependable, yet effective suspension. That is what I finally have. Still working on those rear shocks.
I have seen WAY too many Landies with stock articualtion in cross-axled situation (with lockers) having a see-saw effect when they lift a tire and then land dramatically on it. I am all for having all for tires on the ground through smart articulation...its far more stable...STABLE...that is what we need to go for...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
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