hi can anybody tell me whats involved in doing a springover on a 75 series trayback.would like to fit 37s on.any imfo would be great 
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75 series springover
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
75 series springover
hi can anybody tell me whats involved in doing a springover on a 75 series trayback.would like to fit 37s on.any imfo would be great one sick 75
Try http://www.ih8mud.com and go to 'technical links'
More information than you can poke a stick at.
More information than you can poke a stick at.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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Brad,
If you are just trying to get 37's under your truck a spring over may not be needed. But if thats what you want COOL.
Is it a street driven truck? If so what are the regs like over there? Once you do a soa it is a hell of a lot of work if you ever have to change back.
Depends on your long term plans for the truck i spose.
catch ya round
If you are just trying to get 37's under your truck a spring over may not be needed. But if thats what you want COOL.
Is it a street driven truck? If so what are the regs like over there? Once you do a soa it is a hell of a lot of work if you ever have to change back.
Depends on your long term plans for the truck i spose.
catch ya round
I thinks the regs over here say no SOA .I saw a jaheep the other night that had a small fortune spent on it and a soa and it was wearing a work order.I heard from a suspension company there is a new rule that says 2in maximum lift no excuses.Brad are you going to the gymkana sat?
1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
maybe for a look.work away every second week so chopp'n time is limited.would love to have entered but left it to long.definately next year though.how bout you?roscoFJ73 wrote:I heard from a suspension company there is a new rule that says 2in maximum lift no excuses.
I would find a recognised engineering signatory (aka engineer) and ask him about the legality of SOA in WA. Probably tell you over the phone. Rumours and such aint worth shit IMO. Ask someone who knows exactly what they are talking about.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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and you could always rego it to a buddy in NSW ;)
SOA is not super difficult but fiddly and time consuming, especially if you're manufacturing spring perches etc from scratch.
extra time and effort involved if you want an anti-tramp bar on the rear which is more or less essential if you take any leaves out of the pack, which is essential if you want good articulation (one thing leads to another)
you also have to decide if you're investing in hi-steer arms/links or engineering a welded 'Y' steering arm for the left knuckle to keep the draglink above the springs with the tierod below.
be prepared to cough up around $500 in parts even if you're doing all the work yourself (not including hi-steer arms!) - while it's all apart it's a good idea to renew wheel bearings, knuckle kits (king pin bearings, knuckle wiper seals, inner axle seals etc), repack CV's, brake pads/shoes, paint, fresh oil in the diffs, plus welding wire/gas/sticks, bits of steel etc all add up on a big job.
also need extended brake lines, mods to LSPV linkages, there are a lot of details to work out before it's all happy - but still should all come out cheaper than buying a set of off the shelf 2" - 4" lift springs and having them fitted.
cheers
Brian
SOA is not super difficult but fiddly and time consuming, especially if you're manufacturing spring perches etc from scratch.
extra time and effort involved if you want an anti-tramp bar on the rear which is more or less essential if you take any leaves out of the pack, which is essential if you want good articulation (one thing leads to another)
you also have to decide if you're investing in hi-steer arms/links or engineering a welded 'Y' steering arm for the left knuckle to keep the draglink above the springs with the tierod below.
be prepared to cough up around $500 in parts even if you're doing all the work yourself (not including hi-steer arms!) - while it's all apart it's a good idea to renew wheel bearings, knuckle kits (king pin bearings, knuckle wiper seals, inner axle seals etc), repack CV's, brake pads/shoes, paint, fresh oil in the diffs, plus welding wire/gas/sticks, bits of steel etc all add up on a big job.
also need extended brake lines, mods to LSPV linkages, there are a lot of details to work out before it's all happy - but still should all come out cheaper than buying a set of off the shelf 2" - 4" lift springs and having them fitted.
cheers
Brian
dumbdunce wrote:I'm serious. what's included, what's not?
Ive just cut-and-turned the front housing. 10 degrees diff up, and 3 degrees extra castor. $10 worth of steel for the perches, $3 for metal cutting disk for my angle grinder, $200 for welding course. I prep everything up at home and then take it to TAFE and weld it up. I'm taking the rear axle in Wed night to do the perches and the traction bar mount.
Extended brake lines will be less than $60. Extra left hand steering arm $20. Extra conewashers and longer studs to bolt it together around $50 I guess. Longer shocks $400 good second hand, but I should be able to do better than that.
I'm using FJ55 springs (free) in the rear so my wheelbase will get longer and I should get very cose to being able to use my front driveshaft in the rear. If not, I'll get it cut down - $180 or so. Steel for square tube front driveshaft $20.
My time & patience - priceless!
I have Old Man Emu lift springs under it at the moment. I'm doing SOA to get rid of them. The sale of the OMEs will reduce the nett cost.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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so it's really only under $1000 if your time is worth nothing? that's not really under $1000, not many people have access to all the gear you need to do that sort of job (though I guess it's possible to do using a $50 angle grinder and a $200 stick welder - only if your time is cheap).
why so much extra caster angle?
you doing a front shackle reversal?
why so much extra caster angle?
you doing a front shackle reversal?
I'm using FJ55 springs (free) in the rear so my wheelbase will get longer
on a 75 series? The rear spring length is basically the same in the 75 and 55 series to the best of my knowledge. So you won't get any increase in wheelbase, unless your talking about a 40 series.
Is the steering arm bolt together? There will be a lot of leverage on that! I would recoment welding it and installing a gusset.
dumbdunce wrote:so it's really only under $1000 if your time is worth nothing? that's not really under $1000, not many people have access to all the gear you need to do that sort of job (though I guess it's possible to do using a $50 angle grinder and a $200 stick welder - only if your time is cheap).
I'll be spending less than $1000. Anyone can get access to TAFE welders.
why so much extra caster angle?
Improves handling at high speed with larger tyres
you doing a front shackle reversal?
No. My front springs are virtually flat, so the gains from SR don't justify the extra effort.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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Tojo wrote:I'm using FJ55 springs (free) in the rear so my wheelbase will get longer
on a 75 series? The rear spring length is basically the same in the 75 and 55 series to the best of my knowledge. So you won't get any increase in wheelbase, unless your talking about a 40 series.
Is the steering arm bolt together? There will be a lot of leverage on that! I would recoment welding it and installing a gusset.
Yes, I'm talking about a 40. Bolted arm will be fine for my 35s.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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welded arms are ok if you use the right welding rods (not sure if you can get MIG wire for welding castings?), with the extra length of the studs required to get 2 arms in there I think you will have problems with just the 2 arms bolted together. even with just the single stocker arm they come loose with hard trail use.
anyway if you've done a welding course I would assume it includes a bit on welding cast iron?
anyway if you've done a welding course I would assume it includes a bit on welding cast iron?
dumbdunce wrote:welded arms are ok if you use the right welding rods (not sure if you can get MIG wire for welding castings?), with the extra length of the studs required to get 2 arms in there I think you will have problems with just the 2 arms bolted together. even with just the single stocker arm they come loose with hard trail use.
anyway if you've done a welding course I would assume it includes a bit on welding cast iron?
It does include cast iron, but I'm pretty sure the arms are cast steel (could be forged steel). Standard MIG wire should be OK, but I want to keep this engineerable. I'll be use the highest strength studs I can find, torque them 30% above spec, and use Loctite.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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good tech, shorty :) I had a quick look at your rig at appin and I had thought it had a welded brace in there, obviously I didn't look real hard. my own experience is that even with just stocker steering they can come lose, snap studs, and go all grumpy, and it's not a super easy trail fix.
if the arms are steel (cast or forged) then welding should not be a problem, might required simple heat tratment for stress relief and/or x-ray crack testing for engineering approval.
I find when I weld castings with ordinary MIG or midl steel sticks, the weld itself is super strong but the casting breaks very easily next to the weld when stressed, especially shock/impact loading. could be just down to poor technique though, I never went to tafe to learn to weld, spent the $200 on a stick welder instead of a course.
2car do you do oxy welding in the course too? I wonder how that would go on castings/forgings. lot more heat involved.
cheers
Brian
if the arms are steel (cast or forged) then welding should not be a problem, might required simple heat tratment for stress relief and/or x-ray crack testing for engineering approval.
I find when I weld castings with ordinary MIG or midl steel sticks, the weld itself is super strong but the casting breaks very easily next to the weld when stressed, especially shock/impact loading. could be just down to poor technique though, I never went to tafe to learn to weld, spent the $200 on a stick welder instead of a course.
2car do you do oxy welding in the course too? I wonder how that would go on castings/forgings. lot more heat involved.
cheers
Brian
i had a double flipped arm machined and made up for a future spring over. (haven't got all the bits ready to do the spring over yet) It uses the stock studs and cone washers, no need for longer studs. They actually TIG welded it and cooled it slowly in lime or something overnight so that the steel cooled very slowly. They also did several short welds and not weld the whole thing at once. I had the welding and machining done by an industrial firm who do offshore work in the oil and gas industry, so i trust the quality of their workmanship and welding! I expected them to use an arc welder but they used a TIG. I had it crack tested and it passed ok. If i were to do it again i would get a material analysis and welding procedure done first. Registration authorities like these things, as well as x-ray and crack tests etc.
dumbdunce wrote:good tech, shorty
2car do you do oxy welding in the course too? I wonder how that would go on castings/forgings. lot more heat involved.
cheers
Brian
Yep - oxy welding on cast iron and lots of other stuff. Pre heat and post heat will help to alleviate cracking problems when welding on castings.
For me, the bolted double arm is the cheapest engineerable solution. High steer arms are a nice upgrade that I can bolt on later.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
'''_ ______
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?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
'''_ ______
'/|_[_____]__
|?[_L/-\_|o=o|_
?:__;-?__-,==,_
()_)O()_)O== )_)
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