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tyre for fraser
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tyre for fraser
I have a shorty GQ lpg and got 33 muddies on it but I also have 4 31 road (nearly worn )in the shed.
What are the best tyre for Fraser ?
Should I keep the muddies on it ?
Cheers.
What are the best tyre for Fraser ?
Should I keep the muddies on it ?
Cheers.
And I'd go the other way. On Fraser. or any big sand dune for that matter, you want flotation over traction. HT patterns are nearly the best, aircraft tyres, with their long grooved treads around the diameter of the tyre are near perfect, but hardly roadworthy. If your AT's are legal, I would use them over the muddies.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Traction is traction - whatever the surface. When the chips are down, traction (mud) tyres will beat road (bald A/T) tyres on sand - but the traction tyres will (generally speaking) be much more inclined to dig.
What does this mean? Good question, I'll try again.
Most of the time a H/T or bald A/T will have sufficient traction, and less tendency to dig - so they will perform better than a more aggressive mud terrain (or similar) tyre at higher pressures.
When things go wrong (as they do) and the sphincter tightens, there is no substitute for traction - where an appropriately inflated mud terrain will pull you through terrain which would require recovery of a vehicle shod with lesser tyres.
You make your choices and you take your chances.
Good luck,
Scott
What does this mean? Good question, I'll try again.
Most of the time a H/T or bald A/T will have sufficient traction, and less tendency to dig - so they will perform better than a more aggressive mud terrain (or similar) tyre at higher pressures.
When things go wrong (as they do) and the sphincter tightens, there is no substitute for traction - where an appropriately inflated mud terrain will pull you through terrain which would require recovery of a vehicle shod with lesser tyres.
You make your choices and you take your chances.
Good luck,
Scott
id run the 33s the bigger the better on sand , tread pattern doesnt make much differance on sand its all about tyre pressure let them down to 15psi and you will go anywhere
'05 GU Patrol coil cab ST
6" lift
Tough dogs
Snake Racing drop arms
3rds Rear Arms
Twin ARB air lockers
37" trepadors
ARB bullbar
WARN winch
High flow turbo
3" mandrel bent exhaust
6" lift
Tough dogs
Snake Racing drop arms
3rds Rear Arms
Twin ARB air lockers
37" trepadors
ARB bullbar
WARN winch
High flow turbo
3" mandrel bent exhaust
For flat sand driving, M/T tend to dig in whereas H/T and A/T will tend to float a bit more and require less effort to push through the sand.
However, when tackling dunes, M/T is the way to go as you need to grip and propel yourself up the slope, where a balder type tyre may spin and dig in.
But as said, the 33" over the 31", no matter what pattern.
However, when tackling dunes, M/T is the way to go as you need to grip and propel yourself up the slope, where a balder type tyre may spin and dig in.
But as said, the 33" over the 31", no matter what pattern.
Whatever you run, run it at the lowest pressure you can, and keep the speed down when you are underway. As stated the muds will bite more in the sand, tending to dig yourself in if you try anything sudden, but your 31's may not have enough footprint. In the soft sand the extra 1" of clearance isn't going to make much difference.
50:50 on this one...
My only advice, learn how to reseat a tyre and take a decent compressor, +/- an exhaust jack.
50:50 on this one...
My only advice, learn how to reseat a tyre and take a decent compressor, +/- an exhaust jack.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
You could run virtually any tyre you wanted to run.
Its all in the tyre pressures. Each type of tyre reacts differently on various terrain depending on their pressure.
work your way down from 20 psi downwards until you find a satisfactory ride and grip on the sand.
I've had mine sittin at 12psi a few times on really soft sand with pro comp mud terrains 33s and they got thru the soft stuff really easy.
TOM
Its all in the tyre pressures. Each type of tyre reacts differently on various terrain depending on their pressure.
work your way down from 20 psi downwards until you find a satisfactory ride and grip on the sand.
I've had mine sittin at 12psi a few times on really soft sand with pro comp mud terrains 33s and they got thru the soft stuff really easy.
TOM
custom bar work, 4x4 parts, trailers, anything out of steel/alloy :D
tread causes you headaches in sand unlike mud to a degree....... but run them both at 20lb on the sand and this within reason disappears and 33s will run circles around 31s due to simply surface area!!! factoring in also how Grimace 31s look after having 33 muds on
2015 200 Series Gx TTD - ................ Fark 3L's -
Well said,Daisy wrote:You could run virtually any tyre you wanted to run.
Its all in the tyre pressures. Each type of tyre reacts differently on various terrain depending on their pressure.
work your way down from 20 psi downwards until you find a satisfactory ride and grip on the sand.
I've had mine sittin at 12psi a few times on really soft sand with pro comp mud terrains 33s and they got thru the soft stuff really easy.
TOM
there is no point say run x or y tyre presure unless you have the same truck with the same load and tyre. I run 315 x 75 x 16 xterrains on the rangie and normally between 8-10psi, but what works for me may not work for you.
Having said that, I have never got stuck on fraser, and i'm there 3=4 times a year.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
took 25 cars to Robe on the Nov long weekend, with every type of tire around.
And as said, pressures is what its about.
We had blokes on 31 AT's, OEM GU Bridgetones, through to a plonk with 35 Procomp muds...
All had their advantages, but once everyone had pressures down to ~15 and got some confidence up, nobody got stuck.
The MTR's I ran at 15psi all weekend, nearly without issue, stopping and starting with out issue on the beach and dunes. The only time I got into trouble, was tryin to get back onto the beach once, when it was quicksand, and I shit hot coals.
funny, the ones with most problems were 17in rim new GU's both on ST's... the tires just wouldnt bag at all.
And as said, pressures is what its about.
We had blokes on 31 AT's, OEM GU Bridgetones, through to a plonk with 35 Procomp muds...
All had their advantages, but once everyone had pressures down to ~15 and got some confidence up, nobody got stuck.
The MTR's I ran at 15psi all weekend, nearly without issue, stopping and starting with out issue on the beach and dunes. The only time I got into trouble, was tryin to get back onto the beach once, when it was quicksand, and I shit hot coals.
funny, the ones with most problems were 17in rim new GU's both on ST's... the tires just wouldnt bag at all.
I originally ran my factory 29" HT's at about 25psi for a year or so and i never got stuck with them up the beach, but they were too narrow and i had trouble fitting other vehicle's wheel ruts. However i could drive in 2wd all over the place.
I then moved up to 31" BFG AT's and ran them at full pressure they were pretty good but i needed 4wd more often. Only got stuck once towing a trailor at 20 psi but that was at the beach entrance.
I have now taken my 31" MTR's up the beach a few times and i reckon at 20psi they feel a bit too much like i'm sinking. I even managed to get bogged on the freshwater track last year at double island point, which i never did on the HT's or AT's. I have no concerns about using the MTR's on the beach but i have to take more care when taking off from stationary otherwise it'll dig in.
I then moved up to 31" BFG AT's and ran them at full pressure they were pretty good but i needed 4wd more often. Only got stuck once towing a trailor at 20 psi but that was at the beach entrance.
I have now taken my 31" MTR's up the beach a few times and i reckon at 20psi they feel a bit too much like i'm sinking. I even managed to get bogged on the freshwater track last year at double island point, which i never did on the HT's or AT's. I have no concerns about using the MTR's on the beach but i have to take more care when taking off from stationary otherwise it'll dig in.
On fraser with 32x11.5's BFG A/T i usually run 25psi on the car and 20psi on the trailer along the beach but before tackling indian head and places like that i normally drop her down to 20psi on the car and 16psi on trailer then motor on up.
Ide run the 33's, yes the M/T tend to dig, but thats when you gotta adjust your driving style, When they start to dig and you find yourself going further south then you are forward, reverse out while you can and get a bigger run up and stay on your right foot. Im no expert but IMO i would choose bigger tyre size over tread pattern.
my 2c
Troy
Ide run the 33's, yes the M/T tend to dig, but thats when you gotta adjust your driving style, When they start to dig and you find yourself going further south then you are forward, reverse out while you can and get a bigger run up and stay on your right foot. Im no expert but IMO i would choose bigger tyre size over tread pattern.
my 2c
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
LESS tread
LESS pressure
HIGHER profile
Apart from pressure, the profile of the tyre makes a big difference - taller is better because footprint gets longer as pressure drops.
Longer footprint is MUCH better than a wide footprint in sand. Footprint doesnt get much wider as pressure is dropped, its the length that changes.
Give me a tall skinny road tread (but not the poxy 17" tyres coming out on new vehicles) over a wide mud trye in sand any day of the week. I live half an hour from Rainbow Beach and have proven this many times on many different vehices including a lot of towing trailers in soft sand. Even bald tyres work well on sand, provided the profile and the pressure is right. While you may not get stuck with less than optimal sand tyres, your car will be working a lot harder than it has to.
And you wont wear out your muddies driving there either.
LESS pressure
HIGHER profile
Apart from pressure, the profile of the tyre makes a big difference - taller is better because footprint gets longer as pressure drops.
Longer footprint is MUCH better than a wide footprint in sand. Footprint doesnt get much wider as pressure is dropped, its the length that changes.
Give me a tall skinny road tread (but not the poxy 17" tyres coming out on new vehicles) over a wide mud trye in sand any day of the week. I live half an hour from Rainbow Beach and have proven this many times on many different vehices including a lot of towing trailers in soft sand. Even bald tyres work well on sand, provided the profile and the pressure is right. While you may not get stuck with less than optimal sand tyres, your car will be working a lot harder than it has to.
And you wont wear out your muddies driving there either.
Re: tyre for fraser
Q1. RoundMiteus wrote:What are the best tyre for Fraser ?
Should I keep the muddies on it ?
Q2. Yes unless you planned to change them anyway.
As a few of the blokes have said generally IMHO the right pressure for the conditions is more important on sand.
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
About 25 years ago Toyo brought out a sand tyre, it was very similar to an aircraft tyre. The grooves were primarily for water dispersion on the bituman. The sand miners at Straddy had them on all of the vehicles but once Desert Duelers and the like became popular and much cheaper they switched. As said a number of times, bald is is good (read non agressive tread pattern) bigger is better. I was there in October, on 31x10.5x15 Maxis 751. Hit the soft stuff in 2nd high if you have the grunt or else 1st high and wear ear muffs, drive it like you stole it. Same at Indian Head. Apart from the tyre pressure the, the biggest cause for getting bogged is hesitation. Make sure you have front and back recovery points and someone will always offer to help.
Enjoy.
Enjoy.
I've been on the sand once (1st time) on a tour but I thought the same thing some decent tyres plus the right engine helps as well.scotyz wrote:Ive just returned from 1800 sand kilometeres on maxxis mudzillas where i towed out car after car with road tyres ,i wasnt stuck once ,it would bog down to the belly but still keep moving foreward
Had a brand new narva with HTs had stopped on the sand and end up digging into the sand when trying to get going, I think you need some tread other wise you won't get that little bit of bite you need to get going.
There was also a land crusier with 35s MTs on it and never had a problem anywhere.
The only other problem I seen was height the higher up you can be all the better you'll go on the sand.
Proves nothing - what diameter, profile and pressure were the tyres on the other vehicles (and how much clearance did they have etc etc? I never said muddies dont work on sand but all other things being equal, less aggressive is better. (Unless you think bogging down to the belly is cool) I have two sets of tyres - BFG M/T's and a set of road patterns (Simex Road Trekkers) which I use for sand. They're both the same size tyre. If the muddies were a lot taller than the road tyres, MAYBE they'd work better on the sand. But I'd doubt I'd bother because the Road Trekkers work so well. (and they're only $139 each)scotyz wrote:Ive just returned from 1800 sand kilometeres on maxxis mudzillas where i towed out car after car with road tyres ,i wasnt stuck once ,it would bog down to the belly but still keep moving foreward
If you can afford to waste expensive muddies for sand driving when you dont need them and are happy to put up with the noise and handling shortfalls on the way to the sand, go right ahead.
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