leaking injector pump 2.8 hilux

[Slayer]

Recently noticed diesel dripping from the injector pump on my hilux when i first start it up. hard to tell exactly where the leak is coming from but while ever the engine is left to idle its a steady drip drip drip running down the engine mount, onto the sump then onto the ground. If the engine is reved up to say 2500 rpm for more than a few seconds the drip disapears, but soon returns if let back down to idle speed. anyone else had probs like this?
how should i go about tracking it down and fixing it? its so hard to see the origin becase of engine mounts and other odds and sods in the way!
Also the engine starts fine even if left standing for a week or more, no air apparent in the system, doesnt run rough at all. Does seem to be lacking power on the highway but this could just be the fact that its done almost 300k kicking in and its prob time for some new injectors.
engine is also overheating on the highway on hot days (35+) and i first thought the cooling system was at fault but now im thinking it could be a side effect of this leaking fuel!

Finally im living just out of adelaide atm so if it turns out i need specialist help can anyone recomend a good diesel place in adelaide?
cheers

[bigcam]

had a similar leak on my 2lt (2.4 turbo D) there is a linkage on the passenger side of the pump and has something to do with the air con idle up, it had a shaft running into the pump that has a 2 way return spring on it, there is a small (6mm ID) ish O ring on that shaft and that was the source of the leak, it was leaking through the return prings so was hard at first to see where it was coming from. might be worth a look, you dont need to pull the pump off but its all a bit fiddly becasue of the limited real estate.

as for the over heating id get a deisel specialist to run it up on the dyno check fuel and EGT's before you either blow your motor or waster 100's on chasing down a cooling problem that isnt there.
cheers
cam

[79series]

Sounds like you'll need new pump seals - they can be stuffed by by low sulphur fuel on older vehicles.

Hitech Diesel Services on Churchill Rd are very good, and know Hiluxes well.

[Yumsylux]

Yeah I'd be agreeing it's new pump seals you need. I had that prob on my lux a few years ago. It only leaked when it was starting up. Once it got warmer the internals and pump itself would expand from the heat and seal itself up again. Sounds like you've moved onto the next stage of leakage. No big deal though. Couple hundred bucks'll fix that... You can still drive it. It's just another leak. But I dunno about the cooling, usually you overheat if it's running too rich. I'd check when you last flushed the coolant out and how old the thermostat is.

[Slayer]

so the pump will have to come out to get the seals re done im guessing??
Moving back to canberra in 3 weeks and i was hoping i could get it home before i get it all fixed, will have injectors and pump checked out, get it re tuned etc.. as long as i wont do any damage by holding out a few weeks then id much rather that!
as for the cooling, well the rad is 2 weeks old along with the coolant. Thermostat checks out ok too!
Thought it could be either water pump or clutch fan, although both seem to work ok from the limited testing that can be done to check them... now im leaning towards the engine running too lean! im boosting 10psi but i might drop it back to 7 and see if it makes a differnce!

[Ruffy]

If it's only leaking out the throttle shaft or top plate then you wont need the pump removed. It's a simple job to replace the shaft seal and top plate gasket. $150 max. Could be cheaper depending where you go.

With the over heating issue, if it's only on the highway it's not likely to be a lean mixture thing. More likely a radiator flow problem. When it's warm after a good drive, pull up, leave it running, and check the temperature of both the top and bottom radiator hoses. If theres a lot of variation then the radiator is most likely blocked.
Cheers, Dan

[RUFF]

If it's only leaking out the throttle shaft or top plate then you wont need the pump removed. It's a simple job to replace the shaft seal and top plate gasket. $150 max. Could be cheaper depending where you go.

With the over heating issue, if it's only on the highway it's not likely to be a lean mixture thing. More likely a radiator flow problem. When it's warm after a good drive, pull up, leave it running, and check the temperature of both the top and bottom radiator hoses. If theres a lot of variation then the radiator is most likely blocked.
Cheers, Dan

If its only the top cover or throttle shaft its a very simple job. Disconnect everything off the top of the pump. Unbolt the Linkages off the pump so only the shaft is left. Unbolt the top plate. Carefully remove it and replace the shaft seal and the top housing seal. The seals are worth less than $10 for the pair and you should be able to buy them from anywhere that services/repairs injector pumps. Or Toyota for a fw more $$$. It all goes back together fairly easy as well. Took me 25 min to do the one i did the other week. And i had never had one apart before that.

Before doing any of this make sure everything is very clean. You dont want dirt falling inside the pump.

[Slayer]

So hard to tell where the leak comes from, no worries having a crack at fixing it if i could find it! seems to be coming from the underside of the pump, hard against the side of the engine! think ill just wait it out and get the pump pulled for a service in a few weeks time..
as for the over heating i changed the wastegate spring today, found one laying around that took me from 10psi to 6, was pretty warm here today and it didnt take much of a drive out on the highway before the temp started creeping up.. leaning back towards fan or water pump probs now!...

[RUFF]

So is this a Surf or a 2.8 with a turbo?

[high n mighty]

So is this a Surf or a 2.8 with a turbo?

It's a 2.8 with a turbo

[Yumsylux]

Get your car on a long drive up to operating temp, when you get home turn off the motor and run your hand against the back of your radiator. It should all feel an even temp. No hot or cool spots. If you do find a particular section that is cooler or hotter than the rest of the rad you have a blockage there. If you have access to one of those laser thermometres it'll be a easier for you.

do you still have the radiator shroud still there?

[Slayer]

Get your car on a long drive up to operating temp, when you get home turn off the motor and run your hand against the back of your radiator. It should all feel an even temp. No hot or cool spots. If you do find a particular section that is cooler or hotter than the rest of the rad you have a blockage there. If you have access to one of those laser thermometres it'll be a easier for you.

do you still have the radiator shroud still there?

Thanks everyone for the help! a few of u have been very helpful, some not so much... as mentioned several times already the radiator is only 2 weeks old.. well, 3 and a half now.. but still! this is not a radiator problem. also the shroud is still fitted

With the over heating issue, if it's only on the highway it's not likely to be a lean mixture thing. More likely a radiator flow problem. When it's warm after a good drive, pull up, leave it running, and check the temperature of both the top and bottom radiator hoses. If theres a lot of variation then the radiator is most likely blocked.
Cheers, Dan

corect me if im wrong but wouldnt a lot of variation between top and bottom hoses be a good thing?? not that it would be a very acurate test, dont much fancy grabing things with 80+ degree water inside but none the less.. I would expect the bottom hose to feel considerably cooler than the top one, and so alot of variatoin would indicate a working radiator, not a bloked one!

[dmcruising]

hi i know its been a while but did you end up fixing the leaking pump as i have just developed the same issue and was wondering what you ended up doing.
thanks
dave

[trains]

Just to add.

those that do replace their own seals, and its not that difficult a job.
2 things to remember.

Mark the throttle shaft with the throttle assy, so you can put it back on its correct splines. and sometimes the mixture screw may need to be unwound to fit the top cover back on again, and this also should be marked and then refitted exactly to a mm of where it was.

Ps that shaft also has a seal that is worth replacing too, as it can leak air once disturbed.

cheers

Trains

[dmcruising]

i'm guessing i need to replace the seals does anyone know who the best is to see in newcastle to have it done.
thanks
dave

[joel HJ60]

i'm guessing i need to replace the seals does anyone know who the best is to see in newcastle to have it done.
thanks
dave

See Rosier Diesel ( I think that's what he's called) He's just near Westfield at Kotora. near Altapac also. While your there go to All Four x 4 Spares just up the road and get the seals you need.

[904Runa]

Yeah Rosiers are accredited Denso service guys. Rob's a nice bloke too, not your usual couldn't be bothered grumpy mechanic.

[Slayer]

Just dug this thread up, funny enough about a week after i posted it the first time the leak went away.. i never got around to fixing it.
anyways its back now as of a few days ago. what a pain in the arse! all the old info is still relivent so ill strip the top of the pump down and replace the seals this weekend, might even try get some pics for a sticky.

[ferrit]

Give Queanbeyan diesel service a ring- theyre out at queanbeyan (strangely enough) and are brilliant with diesels

[Slayer]

Give Queanbeyan diesel service a ring- theyre out at queanbeyan (strangely enough) and are brilliant with diesels

the boys at qybn do good work, ive used them before as have mates of mine.. but this one sounds like a job easy enough for me to tackle myself.. if replacing the seals as mentioned above doesnt solve the leak then ill consider booking it in.