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SR20 in a ZOOK (or J20 or 2.5)/fittment Toyota SC12 to 1.3
SR20 in a ZOOK (or J20 or 2.5)/fittment Toyota SC12 to 1.3
Anyone done one of these in a Sierra?
Last edited by Singo17 on Tue Sep 23, 2003 10:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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greg wrote:There's a fellow with an SR20 (Out of a silvia) in the zook club mounted in a sierra - goes pretty darn hard too
So greg what are the mounting issues with the SR20, do you know of any like mandatory body lift, firewall clearance etc.
How did he adapt it ?
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
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johnboy wrote:i know a fella with an SR20 in a 180sx that is producing 258kw at the wheels. just imagine that in a sierra, it would just about tear it in half
I'm talking SR20 not SR20DET. No need for a turbo as 2 litres is bulk in a Zook. Turbo and associated plumbing etc adds unneccesary complications.
I'd like to know if the SR20 + auto can fit in without moving the xfer case from the stock position.
Singo17 wrote:greg wrote:There's a fellow with an SR20 (Out of a silvia) in the zook club mounted in a sierra - goes pretty darn hard too
So greg what are the mounting issues with the SR20, do you know of any like mandatory body lift, firewall clearance etc.
How did he adapt it ?
I'll check with Christover - perhaps he can post some pics of it to give you an idea about how it fit... but it was definately a squeeze (even more so when compared to the roomy fit of the cappo ).
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
I don't see what all the fuss is about moving the transfer case. I have moved a suzi case by 60mm backwards and 40mm up and it has had no effect at all with drive line vib or anything.
As with anything take your time to make sure that everything is square and true and get a reputable person to modify shafts or use spacers and the like.
You will have to get rid of the intermediate shaft between gearbox and transfer case though as the engine gearbox combo is toooo long. You will have to make up a CV based drive shaft to send drive though the transfer case as space is definaley an issue.
We were able to fit a 4FB1 isuzu motor and 5sp gearbox to a zook and it is absolutley awsome. Now that we know it works I think I will have to build myself one but this time with a 4FC1-T back by a factory auto.
by the way the isuzu - 5sp combo is way longer than a SR20 combo.
break out the welder and get going times awasting.
I wonder how long a 2.7lt turbo deisel and auto out a nissan terrano is.......where is my tape measure............remember deisel means no computer and all the added benefits of no carb or side angle issues. Give them feul and air and service them relegiously and you will have a heart that lasts for years with heaps of grunt and more importantly torque in a place that is usable looooooww down.
cheers
James
As with anything take your time to make sure that everything is square and true and get a reputable person to modify shafts or use spacers and the like.
You will have to get rid of the intermediate shaft between gearbox and transfer case though as the engine gearbox combo is toooo long. You will have to make up a CV based drive shaft to send drive though the transfer case as space is definaley an issue.
We were able to fit a 4FB1 isuzu motor and 5sp gearbox to a zook and it is absolutley awsome. Now that we know it works I think I will have to build myself one but this time with a 4FC1-T back by a factory auto.
by the way the isuzu - 5sp combo is way longer than a SR20 combo.
break out the welder and get going times awasting.
I wonder how long a 2.7lt turbo deisel and auto out a nissan terrano is.......where is my tape measure............remember deisel means no computer and all the added benefits of no carb or side angle issues. Give them feul and air and service them relegiously and you will have a heart that lasts for years with heaps of grunt and more importantly torque in a place that is usable looooooww down.
cheers
James
joey is using a manual as auto was way too long, but his next zook is a lwb, and will be using the auto..he had to do much cutting of floor and firewall, tho his lwb is a 1.3, we think it will fit more easily, further forward, with a thermo on outside of rad. I have more detailed pix, later, christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
i messed around with a SR20DET.it will fit but the distributor will hit the firewall if its not massaged a bit,as said before the tunnel will need mods and youll have to shorten the jackshaft.also fit a thermo fan.
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Was tossing up the turbo/supercharger option but I think dual transfer case will be the go instead for me, as I was only after power to compensate for gearing issues in both high and low range.
Power wasnt really a problem with the Vitara until i hit 31" rubber. After all it already has a 1.6 and similar overall gearing and weight as the Sierra, so something like 30% better power to weight ratio to start with than a 1.3 Sierra and even more for a 1.0 Sierra.
If I was to do it, I'd still turbo or supercharge rather than engine swap. Both are pretty easy for the Suzuki's as there's room on the left of the motor for either option.
However, this is on a 1.6 engine......Of course if you're already starting with a 1.0 you need a lot of boost pressure to get the same power.
For the price of Suzuki EFI engines there are better options out there, especially for a Sierra where you have all the gearbox/bellhousing issues to consider. The Vitara EFI engine really only makes sense when it's going into a Vitara.
My recommendations for a sierra swap are (not a fan of old crappy K series corolla engines unless they are cheap) - may as well keep the 1 litre and turbo it as put one of them in.
Toyota: 4AG (Carb), 4AGE, 4AGZE
Nissan - A14 (carb), A15 (carb), CA20 (carb twin spark), CA16DE, CA18DE, CA18DET
Suzuki - GSX1400 or F5A!!!!!
GSX1400. Y? You just have have to love 60 forward gear options - 6x5x2= YUM!
Power wasnt really a problem with the Vitara until i hit 31" rubber. After all it already has a 1.6 and similar overall gearing and weight as the Sierra, so something like 30% better power to weight ratio to start with than a 1.3 Sierra and even more for a 1.0 Sierra.
If I was to do it, I'd still turbo or supercharge rather than engine swap. Both are pretty easy for the Suzuki's as there's room on the left of the motor for either option.
However, this is on a 1.6 engine......Of course if you're already starting with a 1.0 you need a lot of boost pressure to get the same power.
For the price of Suzuki EFI engines there are better options out there, especially for a Sierra where you have all the gearbox/bellhousing issues to consider. The Vitara EFI engine really only makes sense when it's going into a Vitara.
My recommendations for a sierra swap are (not a fan of old crappy K series corolla engines unless they are cheap) - may as well keep the 1 litre and turbo it as put one of them in.
Toyota: 4AG (Carb), 4AGE, 4AGZE
Nissan - A14 (carb), A15 (carb), CA20 (carb twin spark), CA16DE, CA18DE, CA18DET
Suzuki - GSX1400 or F5A!!!!!
GSX1400. Y? You just have have to love 60 forward gear options - 6x5x2= YUM!
I had a chat to someone who does engine conversions for a living last week. I suggested the SR20DE, and he said not to expect any change from 7K. I would not attempt this conversion myself, because a new transmission tunnel would need to be fabricated, not to mension firewall clearance.
The CA18DE and CA18DET motors would be a bad idea, unless they were CHEAP!!! They are Very long in the tooth, and there are better jap motors to be had for the same money. The 4AG 20 valve would be ideal, but is still an expensive motor.
As for turbocharging the 1.0 litre, I have thought of doing this, but it will make you power band very peaky, as the only way to get any real power from that setup would be to rev the nuts off it. This would be no good for anyone without a series 3 rockhopper. Not to mention the full rebuild with stronger internals (if they exist) that would be required for longevity.
There are many people who have done the vitara EFI conversion, and know what is involved. I have driven a sierra with this conversion and it was impressive. I know that it can be done by a proffesional for about the 4K mark. For this you get a useful power increase, and a very useful torque increase, not to mention the benifits of doing away with the carby. I'm pretty sure it is bolt in with the appropriate adapters for the bell housing, and you will need 1.3 engine mounts. other things like fuel pump and radiator should be considered. It may even work out cheaper just to buy a vitara front cut. They are not easy to find, but it would be worth the wait IMO.
The CA18DE and CA18DET motors would be a bad idea, unless they were CHEAP!!! They are Very long in the tooth, and there are better jap motors to be had for the same money. The 4AG 20 valve would be ideal, but is still an expensive motor.
As for turbocharging the 1.0 litre, I have thought of doing this, but it will make you power band very peaky, as the only way to get any real power from that setup would be to rev the nuts off it. This would be no good for anyone without a series 3 rockhopper. Not to mention the full rebuild with stronger internals (if they exist) that would be required for longevity.
There are many people who have done the vitara EFI conversion, and know what is involved. I have driven a sierra with this conversion and it was impressive. I know that it can be done by a proffesional for about the 4K mark. For this you get a useful power increase, and a very useful torque increase, not to mention the benifits of doing away with the carby. I'm pretty sure it is bolt in with the appropriate adapters for the bell housing, and you will need 1.3 engine mounts. other things like fuel pump and radiator should be considered. It may even work out cheaper just to buy a vitara front cut. They are not easy to find, but it would be worth the wait IMO.
Gutless wrote:I had a chat to someone who does engine conversions for a living last week. I suggested the SR20DE, and he said not to expect any change from 7K. I would not attempt this conversion myself, because a new transmission tunnel would need to be fabricated, not to mension firewall clearance.
The CA18DE and CA18DET motors would be a bad idea, unless they were CHEAP!!! They are Very long in the tooth, and there are better jap motors to be had for the same money. The 4AG 20 valve would be ideal, but is still an expensive motor.
As for turbocharging the 1.0 litre, I have thought of doing this, but it will make you power band very peaky, as the only way to get any real power from that setup would be to rev the nuts off it. This would be no good for anyone without a series 3 rockhopper. Not to mention the full rebuild with stronger internals (if they exist) that would be required for longevity.
There are many people who have done the vitara EFI conversion, and know what is involved. I have driven a sierra with this conversion and it was impressive. I know that it can be done by a proffesional for about the 4K mark. For this you get a useful power increase, and a very useful torque increase, not to mention the benifits of doing away with the carby. I'm pretty sure it is bolt in with the appropriate adapters for the bell housing, and you will need 1.3 engine mounts. other things like fuel pump and radiator should be considered. It may even work out cheaper just to buy a vitara front cut. They are not easy to find, but it would be worth the wait IMO.
Yeah I keep coming up with the same answers but I have found a site that does the 4A-GE 1.6 litre 16 valve DOHC 86kw $650.00 4A-GE 1.6 litre 16 valve DOHC 100kw $950.00 but I think it's engine only so loom/ECU would be a hassle.
Even looked at Diesel but until the lightwieghts are released here (unlikely due to crap fuel) this is not an viable option.
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Gutless,
I agree the 4AG series of motor is definately the way to go, but I would give the 20V a miss, they're like driving a 2 stroke, I think peak power is up around the 6-7k mark, a lecturer at my uni put one in a lotus 7 for hill climbing and he is very dissapointed, he said the GZE would have been a heaps better choice but he had to go 20V to pass 2002 emissions (not a problem putting them in an old zuk).
You get a your power and torque a bit lower down with the GE/GZE, and they're heaps cheaper, should get a half cut GZE 1200-1500 last time I looked.
Grant
I agree the 4AG series of motor is definately the way to go, but I would give the 20V a miss, they're like driving a 2 stroke, I think peak power is up around the 6-7k mark, a lecturer at my uni put one in a lotus 7 for hill climbing and he is very dissapointed, he said the GZE would have been a heaps better choice but he had to go 20V to pass 2002 emissions (not a problem putting them in an old zuk).
You get a your power and torque a bit lower down with the GE/GZE, and they're heaps cheaper, should get a half cut GZE 1200-1500 last time I looked.
Grant
Joey's sr20de cost him 750 bucks to buy from an importer(non turbo makes them less attractive for other users)plus another $300 for box etc, self fitting cost relatively nothing much. If you wish to pay somebody for fitting, then it would cost the earth. Best to stay with common conversions when paying people..christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
Gutless wrote:I had a chat to someone who does engine conversions for a living last week. I suggested the SR20DE, and he said not to expect any change from 7K. I would not attempt this conversion myself, because a new transmission tunnel would need to be fabricated, not to mension firewall clearance.
The CA18DE and CA18DET motors would be a bad idea, unless they were CHEAP!!! They are Very long in the tooth, and there are better jap motors to be had for the same money. The 4AG 20 valve would be ideal, but is still an expensive motor.
As for turbocharging the 1.0 litre, I have thought of doing this, but it will make you power band very peaky, as the only way to get any real power from that setup would be to rev the nuts off it. This would be no good for anyone without a series 3 rockhopper. Not to mention the full rebuild with stronger internals (if they exist) that would be required for longevity.
There are many people who have done the vitara EFI conversion, and know what is involved. I have driven a sierra with this conversion and it was impressive. I know that it can be done by a proffesional for about the 4K mark. For this you get a useful power increase, and a very useful torque increase, not to mention the benifits of doing away with the carby. I'm pretty sure it is bolt in with the appropriate adapters for the bell housing, and you will need 1.3 engine mounts. other things like fuel pump and radiator should be considered. It may even work out cheaper just to buy a vitara front cut. They are not easy to find, but it would be worth the wait IMO.
I have to agree with Gutless here - it's a proven upgrade that works well and there's plenty of knowlege, parts etc around for this type of conversion.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Darren,
Fair enough, I guess the 20V is fine, but I would still say the GZE is the better option bit better value for money. I didn't mean there would be any issues with power, you've replaced a pretty low powered 1.3, of course its gunna go better everywhere in the rev range.
But for off road work it will be hard to get the best out of a 20V, my only experience with it is in a hill climber where the driver is really trying to squeeze every little bit out of it that he can, and he reakons its a prick to drive, saying that he prefered his worked escort.
Ideally for a 4WD we would want an early peaking and flat torque curve (I reakon).
Grant
Fair enough, I guess the 20V is fine, but I would still say the GZE is the better option bit better value for money. I didn't mean there would be any issues with power, you've replaced a pretty low powered 1.3, of course its gunna go better everywhere in the rev range.
But for off road work it will be hard to get the best out of a 20V, my only experience with it is in a hill climber where the driver is really trying to squeeze every little bit out of it that he can, and he reakons its a prick to drive, saying that he prefered his worked escort.
Ideally for a 4WD we would want an early peaking and flat torque curve (I reakon).
Grant
Darren wrote:Recently bought a hardtop with a 4AGE 20V and have to disagree with the comments about the 20V, awsome power up high but it has still got good power down low, nice and light and a fairly simple install worth considering
Who did the install and what is the G/Box
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Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
:armsup:"ARMS UP":armsup:
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Gutless wrote:I had a chat to someone who does engine conversions for a living last week. I suggested the SR20DE, and he said not to expect any change from 7K. I would not attempt this conversion myself, because a new transmission tunnel would need to be fabricated, not to mension firewall clearance.
The CA18DE and CA18DET motors would be a bad idea, unless they were CHEAP!!! They are Very long in the tooth, and there are better jap motors to be had for the same money. The 4AG 20 valve would be ideal, but is still an expensive motor.
As for turbocharging the 1.0 litre, I have thought of doing this, but it will make you power band very peaky, as the only way to get any real power from that setup would be to rev the nuts off it. This would be no good for anyone without a series 3 rockhopper. Not to mention the full rebuild with stronger internals (if they exist) that would be required for longevity.
other things like fuel pump and radiator should be considered. It may even work out cheaper just to buy a vitara front cut. They are not easy to find, but it would be worth the wait IMO.
Vitara 1/2 cut cheap if you know what you are doing, but the stock EFI on the vitara is pretty crap so you have to take that into consideration and with aftermarket ECU you don't need a lot of the sensors and loom. You pay $1000 extra for a half cut but get discs and stuff as opposed to an aftermarket ECU you can tune for more power and better fuel economy.
I would rate a CA18DET over a SR20 any day on bang for buck. SR20 DET are waaaaaaay overpriced by comparison. I'd prefer a Z18T but they pretty thin on the ground these days. I believe the old Bathurst lap record (pre Caltex Chase) is still held by a George Fury Z18 powered Bluebird and they still had a dizzy......
I hunted everywhere for one of these for my datto 1200 ute before I rebuilt the A15 and 5 speed dogleg rally box....
SR20 has more potential power but at big cost and at high rpm (2.2 stroked versions of 800hp are possible). CA18 can get 300kw (400kw with stroking) and has some design advantages over the SR20, particularly for our application - much smaller and lighter (thus easier to fit), better valve actuation, less peaky delivery etc etc..
Ask around - while the wank3r WRX wannabee set believe the SR20DET is the tool to have, there is a lot of support from true datto fans for the CA18's.
The best SR20's are those quad throttlebody ones from the Pulsar GTi but at $3000-4000 each without box they are stupidly pricey.
SR20DE's are also substantially cheaper than SR20DET's but, CA16 and CA18 DE's are really really cheap - wreckers regularly sell CA16's for a few hundred bucks. Much chaper than a SR20 or a Vitara engine if you're gonna risk killing em with dust and water, and with about 110hp that's about 3 times the power of a 1.3 Sierra and twice what a 1.6 Vitara engine does.
My datto "sex"perience showing up. Go the 24 0z L24 w/ 220hp!
jtraf wrote:We were able to fit a 4FB1 isuzu motor and 5sp gearbox to a zook and it is absolutley awsome. Now that we know it works I think I will have to build myself one but this time with a 4FC1-T back by a factory auto.
by the way the isuzu - 5sp combo is way longer than a SR20 combo.
break out the welder and get going times awasting.
cheers
James
Holden Piazza (Isuzu) turbo intecooled 2.0 can be got for well under a grand and match up to most Isuzu boxes.... My friend with the MU is assessing whether the MU gets repalced witha patrol or he gets the turbo bits off one fo these to go on the 2.6.
They go well in a Gemini or an early Jackeroo too...
greg wrote:Suzuki Viagra wrote:Suzuki - GSX1400 or F5A!!!!!
F6A or a K6A would be better than the older F5A
But I can get a F5A cheap......
I still have sick dreams after a slab and a pepperoni pizza of Suzuki 800 hatches (not the 550 as they didn't have the auto box) with the worked GSXR 1100 (1340cc) nitrous drag engine and 6 speed air shifted box mated to the 3 speed auto and fully tubbed at the front.
Satans very own WRX traffic light eliminator I am sure of it.......
schoey wrote:Gutless,
I agree the 4AG series of motor is definately the way to go, but I would give the 20V a miss, they're like driving a 2 stroke, I think peak power is up around the 6-7k mark, a lecturer at my uni put one in a lotus 7 for hill climbing and he is very dissapointed, he said the GZE would have been a heaps better choice but he had to go 20V to pass 2002 emissions (not a problem putting them in an old zuk).
You get a your power and torque a bit lower down with the GE/GZE, and they're heaps cheaper, should get a half cut GZE 1200-1500 last time I looked.
Grant
4AG are really cheap for the power you get and heaps better than old corollas. K series corolla engines are crap.
Any of the EFI Seca or even better the 20V or AGZE are pretty damn awesome in such a light bus.
They're a very popular engine - for their size and power to weight not much beats them - turbo rotaries and RB series nissans and that's about it.
f5a did come in auto.as for the 1 liter.just put a smaller turbo on it.we have had 20psi through a std charade turbo.these spool up very quick and with that boost pressure it holds the power.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Had a quick look but couldn't find it, but somebody here mentioned a 2.7L turbo deisel motor for a conversion. Wouls said person have any stats on this donk? How old is it? Power/torque etc.
I have a 1 litre with Series 3, 4.55 diffs and 33" rubber, and it really is pushing $hit uphill......or not pushing to be more accurate. i was thinking about a 253 V8 with VN heads, running on gas. This would be a relatively cheap conversion, and is possibly the lightest V8 conversion around.
Any ideas on these two motors?
I have a 1 litre with Series 3, 4.55 diffs and 33" rubber, and it really is pushing $hit uphill......or not pushing to be more accurate. i was thinking about a 253 V8 with VN heads, running on gas. This would be a relatively cheap conversion, and is possibly the lightest V8 conversion around.
Any ideas on these two motors?
Not sure of the gearbox or who did the conversion mod plate says owner but that wasn't the person I bought it off, not too bad a job just sorting out the wiring and a few other little things when they did the conversion they used the complete donor harness rather than splitting it and getting rid of all the crap
Not sure of the gearbox or who did the conversion mod plate says owner but that wasn't the person I bought it off, not too bad a job just sorting out the wiring and a few other little things when they did the conversion they used the complete donor harness rather than splitting it and getting rid of all the crap
Gutless,
you can get a pathfinder(terreno) half cut for around the $2500 mark from my limited looking. These had a 2.7lt turbo deisel backed by an auto.
Look at the length and see if it works. If it does it would be an absolute monster that would ultimately leave the V8 for dead. I know the 1.8lt deisel works very well.
This engine has been in the thinking process and is yet to come into any real workings.
cheers
James
you can get a pathfinder(terreno) half cut for around the $2500 mark from my limited looking. These had a 2.7lt turbo deisel backed by an auto.
Look at the length and see if it works. If it does it would be an absolute monster that would ultimately leave the V8 for dead. I know the 1.8lt deisel works very well.
This engine has been in the thinking process and is yet to come into any real workings.
cheers
James
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