just a few questions

[matthewK]

hi guy and girls

iv been reading into it a bit to do a 2 inch body lift just lil puzzled on one thing, when they say mods to the gear levers how do they mean excatly?

second question where about is it best recommed to get these feul line repacement

Replace fuel feed and return hoses, body to fuel pump, with longer ones

iv got the 1988 GQ 4.2L petty LWB


im priotty clear on everything else

thanks matt

[chops]

you can either trim the inside of the shifter plates where the levers will touch about 10mm or so, or just move the whole plate boots and all backwards and tek screw it back down again

for replacement fuel hose, autobarn, supercheap etc etc

[matthewK]

next stupid question


exteneding the feul lines how much is excatly needed? i know supa crap sell the stuff i need, what size and lengths dose anyone remember?


last stupid question


now iv got solid steel body blocks but they r 50mm dia 3inch wich will be cut down to 2inch.

now im thinking of cutting the blocks a tad more further 10mm
to weld 70mm dia x5mm thick plate the each end to give it the bigger surface to sit on what do ya reacond about this?
is this reasonable and passable on a engineers certificate?

thanx

matty

[killer_garden_gnome]

marks adapters sell a bracket for ur low range shifter so u dont have to touch the metal and u can nearly get away with just cutting a small amount of rubber out from around the gearbox shifter

[matthewK]

after been under the nissn for a bit im a lil confued at witch point the feul lines need to be exteneed?

at the tank? where it comes off the chasi to the feul send on the tank that bolted to the chasi or at the feul pump? or filter im a lil lost now


any help is good some under standing

thanks guys and girls

[tropey]

I wouldn't weld the 5mm plates on the ends... 1 solid piece will always be stronger and the 50mm width is the standard with no problems.

[bogged]

never extended my fuel lines with 40mm lift

[killer_garden_gnome]

weve done a few body lifts on gq's all lengths and motors and never needed to touch anything but the shifter surrounds and steering coupling, on the odd occasion we manually stretched the coiled metal brake lines or just unbolted the brackets off the chassis.

[matthewK]

well im doing 50mm 2inch that shouldnt be a problem then with feul lines,


managed to get 1 nut off one of the bolts but now found the bolt dosent wanna come up even after hitting it with hammer and trying to push it up with the jack so iv drowned all of the bolts WD40 hope fullt this will help

[HeathGQ]

managed to get 1 nut off one of the bolts but now found the bolt dosent wanna come up even after hitting it with hammer and trying to push it up with the jack so iv drowned all of the bolts WD40 hope fullt this will help

haa haa - That would mean the boilts are stuck in the standard body mounts. When we removed the old cab from mine, we had thge same problem with one or two. As we were putting in new mounts, we just cut the bolt.

The WD40 should help to get them out, but I would start planning on re-doing the body mounts.

[blkmav]

Make sure you loosen the steering coupling before fitting the bodylift

[matthewK]

ok if thats the case and iv gotta get the body mount parts who best place to get them from??


can any one tell me if all the body mount bolts are the same??
spec the back 2?


as for the steering i havent forgotten that or to bend a few other things

[HeathGQ]

ok if thats the case and iv gotta get the body mount parts who best place to get them from??

Only place is Nissan. If you have a mechanic mate, have them order them under trade price - I got mine - all 12 - for $370 instead of $495 retail. A word of advice - dont take em out all in one hit - replace one at a time so you know which one goes where. The front two and the rear two are different to the remaining 6, with the little ones under the rear floor.

can any one tell me if all the body mount bolts are the same??
spec the back 2?

All the front 8 are the same, and the 2 at the rear are different, as captive nuts. Oh and be prepared to cut the floor out to get to these, as if they are rusted in cut them out and replace with normal nuts. The easiest way would be to take one of teh front and one of the rear to a nuts'n'bolts place and ask for 'x' of these but 50mm longer.... get it?

[matthewK]

looking more and more to be a bastard of a job started unding the back bolts ok but the nuts let go so reacon im gonna cut the floor open to get to it,
but as long as i keep it neat i can weld it back later

[killer_garden_gnome]

do yourself a favor open up the captive bit over the nut with a screwdriver or cold chisel cut the head off the bolt and pull the rest of the bolt and nut up thru the floor then all u need is a bolt a nut and a decent washer

[bogged]

replace your body mounts while your at it... not cheap, but they seem to flog out faster with a body lift in.

[killer_garden_gnome]

i got an extra 30mm lift when i replaced mine coz they were that squashed but yeh at 45 bucks each its not cheap

[Nelso]

after been under the nissn for a bit im a lil confued at witch point the feul lines need to be exteneed?

at the tank? where it comes off the chasi to the feul send on the tank that bolted to the chasi or at the feul pump? or filter im a lil lost now


any help is good some under standing

thanks guys and girls

The only thing to do with the fuel system is to loosen the rubber filler line so it's not pulled tight when you lift the cab.

[matthewK]

good news only one bolts rusted slightly in place over the drivers foot ,rest were still nearly shiny

not sounding to sutpid how did ya cut the rusted bolt out with body mont without too much damage

[HeathGQ]

Well if you can hammer it up enough to get to the bolt head, then cut that off, and hammer the bolt back down. Then you should be able to get the body mount out with the bolt attached.