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MQ Transfer Case Questions.

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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MQ Transfer Case Questions.

Post by Wallace »

Hi All,

My old man's MQ patrol is struggling to go into 4wd from 2wd.

If you are moving more than about 5 km/h then it will grind the gears until you slow down. As you slow down it will then click into 4high. Obviously, if you are standing still.. then it doesnt grind at all.

What would cause this? We were up at Jurien Bay (WA) last week and it worked fine the one day, then the next day we went out again and it was grinding like this. We came back, and all the fluid's were replaced throughout, as i thought the transfer case may have run a little dry... but even with new oil it still does it.

Anyone ever had this before? Is his transfer case cactus?

Thanks,

Will
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Post by lay80n »

MQ's from memory are stationary egagement transfers. If the hubs are locked in it is possible to go from 2wd to 4wd and back without stopping, with only a slight crunch every now and then. Did you have the hubs locked in when you tried it? NEVER go between high and low on the move though.

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Post by chimpboy »

Sounds like it might just be the stick/linkages to me... it's simply not getting pushed all the way into 4WD.

I would stop driving it in 4WD until you've fixed the problem, because it may be wearing the gears unevenly at the moment, especially when it pops back out.
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Post by killer_garden_gnome »

i had a mk with a 5 speed and it was shift on fly like a gq between 2wd and 4 high and u could even rip it into low while rolling if the revs were right and u were quick enough so yeh u should be able to goto 4 high no clutch so its obviously not shifting all the way into 4 or not at all
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Post by NZ4x4 »

my MK and my MQ are stationary egagement transfers (have both types)
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Post by pongo »

I found if you do a "real " double clutch you can get from 4 low to 4 high with out cruching.

My mk's all shift on the fly between 2h and 4h as long as the hubs are locked in.

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Post by mattstar »

I have an Mq SD33 4speed and it's stationary engagement
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Post by Wallace »

Thanks for the help!!

So... it could be stationary engagement? Although - we used to be able to shift on the fly no worries...?

It is an SD33T 5 speed... is there any way to find out whether it is stationary engagement or on the fly (other than, driving down the road and crunching the hell out of the gears)?

Thansk again all.

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Post by Hoppy11 »

I thought that all MQ/MK's came with the same transfers (T100 and T130) so can they be shifted on the go or not, I always stop to shift, Mine was a MK deluxe wagon with automatic hubs that engaged when 4wd is selected, so can I shif between 2H and 4H on the go or should i stick to a stationary shift.
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Post by David_S »

Never heard of an MQ or MK having to stop to engage 4wd Hi Ratio. Been doing it on the run for 25 years with no problems. Have had 2 gearbox/transfer combinations and both worked fine. And yes with judicious matching of revs you can change from Hi to Lo ratio and back on the fly.

This is with the T130 transfer as fiited to Hardtops. Don't know about the T100 which was fitted to some vans and pickups.

As for your crunching problem first check that both free-wheeling hubs are engaging properly. If one is stuck in the free position or not engaging fully you will not be able to engage 4wd on the move and will probably have a smoking diff too!
Last edited by David_S on Mon Jan 08, 2007 2:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by dromana7411 »

while on the subject of transfers... when i put mine into 4wd, hi or lo... i ge a clunking sound, as if iv lost a tooth or something in there... havnt had a chance to drain oil as yet, as im wating on my new bank card.

is it possible to of damaged it in some way like that?
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Post by lolergram »

dromana7411 wrote:while on the subject of transfers... when i put mine into 4wd, hi or lo... i ge a clunking sound, as if iv lost a tooth or something in there... havnt had a chance to drain oil as yet, as im wating on my new bank card.

is it possible to of damaged it in some way like that?
When I had the MQ, mine did the same... If you open them up and have a look inside, you will see this sleeve that runs over a split shaft... Just imagine a clutch fork pushing the sleeve over the the split shaft (which is toothed) and when its over the split, the whole shaft rolls as one...

That sound most likely is the sound when it goes over the split and is in position on the stop...


Thats my stab in the dark for today, I could be wrong...
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Post by g60boy »

my t100l will not shift on the fly, mmmm crunchy noises........ woops i didnt need that any way :D .
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Post by Wallace »

David_S wrote:As for your crunching problem first check that both free-wheeling hubs are engaging properly. If one is stuck in the free position or not engaging fully you will not be able to engage 4wd on the move and will probably have a smoking diff too!
Mind if i ask how to check whether they are engaging or not? My TJ has automatic hubs, and as such i have never had any dealings with free wheeling hubs.

Thanks for the help all!!!

Will
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Post by lolergram »

Wallace wrote:
David_S wrote:As for your crunching problem first check that both free-wheeling hubs are engaging properly. If one is stuck in the free position or not engaging fully you will not be able to engage 4wd on the move and will probably have a smoking diff too!
Mind if i ask how to check whether they are engaging or not? My TJ has automatic hubs, and as such i have never had any dealings with free wheeling hubs.

Thanks for the help all!!!

Will
Lift up front end, both wheels off ground, put in 2wd high in cockpit, you (person 1) turn one wheel continously, while another person (person 2) is on the other wheel, now the other person (person 2) has to switch the hub on their side, if front driveshaft doesn't spin and the other persons (person 2) wheel doesnt spin it is all good (all this while you (person 1) are spinning your wheel). Repeat exercise with you and ur friend changing jobs.

Somebody correct me if this logic is incorrect!!!

That is for free wheeling hubs!!! Sorry, my bad

Now put into 4wd if you have auto locking hubs....
Lift front end so both wheels in air, spin one wheel, if other spins (in opposite if you have standard diff or in same if LSD or locker) then the auto locker is locked, if other wheel is stationary... Its not engaged somewhere, but cant tell you where!

Get someone to grab the other wheel and hold it while you are spinning yours to check if it is locked properly. Get him to hold it tight. And you try spin yours, if you can hold each other off with adequete force, I would presume engagement is on!


Somebody correct me if this logic is incorrect!!!
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