Hey All.
I have my eye on a 91 Vitara, but I am curious how I can test if the 4h/4l/2h is ok? If there are problems would there be obvious noises etc?
Are there any tips you have for testing it with?
Also feel free to comment on what you think it is worth. 91 JLX (1.6 carbi) , SWB, 192,000kms. He wants $5000, redbook says they sell for between $1800 and $4100....that said, most I have seen have been $3000-7000 but most were the 16B.
Cheers
Chris
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Buying My 1st 4x4 - Testing the box/transfer case?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
id say just head to an empty lot throw it into 4h, 4L listen for any noises, feelings through the car, anything that dosent soiund right check it out,
test ya CV's full lock left then full lock right if ya hear a clicking noise their stuffed
its all i did with the nissan GQ when i was looking at buying it
test ya CV's full lock left then full lock right if ya hear a clicking noise their stuffed
its all i did with the nissan GQ when i was looking at buying it
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
That Red Books site can be terribly missleading for car prices (In QLD anyway).
You say that the engine has done 192,000km; my question is has any work been done to the engine. The smaller Suzuki engines are great, but are likely to be looking a little tired at 200,000.
I know my father was looking at buying a SWB Vitara a while ago, it was a '90 model, done just over 200, and it blew smoke.
Do factor this into looking at any car, but also remember zook engines aren't too bad to rebuild.
You say that the engine has done 192,000km; my question is has any work been done to the engine. The smaller Suzuki engines are great, but are likely to be looking a little tired at 200,000.
I know my father was looking at buying a SWB Vitara a while ago, it was a '90 model, done just over 200, and it blew smoke.
Do factor this into looking at any car, but also remember zook engines aren't too bad to rebuild.
This is a good tip for testing the driveline, when in 4wd low range blip the throttle on and off and listen for slack in the transfer etc.matthewK wrote:id say just head to an empty lot throw it into 4h, 4L listen for any noises, feelings through the car, anything that dosent soiund right check it out,
test ya CV's full lock left then full lock right if ya hear a clicking noise their stuffed
its all i did with the nissan GQ when i was looking at buying it
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
It doesn't blow smoke. It has not had engine work. It has had very little off road experience, and the guy gets it services by a dealership...he is going to find the reciepts for me today so I can make sure it was regular.
Most that I have seen (not in person - just on net) are $3000-4000 with 250,000 kms with no engine work. I can get a newer one with the EFI for $6000, so I am tossing up if it is worth it or not. I cannot afford $6000 but is worth saving for the 16B engine (ok...I should put this into the suzuki thread now as it's gone off topic)
Ok to keep things on topic, I have a new thread for other parts of the car (so we can keep this thread on the topic of testing 4h/4l )
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... 566#983566
Most that I have seen (not in person - just on net) are $3000-4000 with 250,000 kms with no engine work. I can get a newer one with the EFI for $6000, so I am tossing up if it is worth it or not. I cannot afford $6000 but is worth saving for the 16B engine (ok...I should put this into the suzuki thread now as it's gone off topic)
Ok to keep things on topic, I have a new thread for other parts of the car (so we can keep this thread on the topic of testing 4h/4l )
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... 566#983566
In a vitara box and tcase, 4H and 2H use the same bits in the gearbox, except for the bits that 4H and 4L share. So, testing 4H is kind of pointless - just test 2H and 4L. Testing 4L should be done one a loose surface with hubs locked.
Potentially you can do really REALLY low speed 4L in a straight line with a few steering wiggles on a solid surface (I did with mine for maybe 100m max at walking pace) but be aware it's at own risk and can cause transfer case destruction due to transmission windup. If you do so it's on your own head.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF THE FRONT AND BACK TYRES ARE CLEARLY DIFFERENT SIZES.... (eg different brands bought at different times).
250,000km is pretty much the end of the line fo a carby EFI motor and even thats doing well. They can go much further after a rebuild but an untouched top end at 250,000 km is asking for money spent. It is only a little 4cyl after all.
Most vitaras dont really use 4wd Low or even 4wd so its exceedingly unlikely there is any damage - in fact there may even be no wear AT ALL. Of course there is the potential for some dumb hairdresser to decide 4wd is safer all the time... but luckily most dont know how to use manual hubs anyway.
Potentially you can do really REALLY low speed 4L in a straight line with a few steering wiggles on a solid surface (I did with mine for maybe 100m max at walking pace) but be aware it's at own risk and can cause transfer case destruction due to transmission windup. If you do so it's on your own head.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF THE FRONT AND BACK TYRES ARE CLEARLY DIFFERENT SIZES.... (eg different brands bought at different times).
250,000km is pretty much the end of the line fo a carby EFI motor and even thats doing well. They can go much further after a rebuild but an untouched top end at 250,000 km is asking for money spent. It is only a little 4cyl after all.
Most vitaras dont really use 4wd Low or even 4wd so its exceedingly unlikely there is any damage - in fact there may even be no wear AT ALL. Of course there is the potential for some dumb hairdresser to decide 4wd is safer all the time... but luckily most dont know how to use manual hubs anyway.
Sorry if i took it off topic with the engine subject.
Beastmavster raises the lack of use issue, which is quite possible. The only possible problem arrising from this is the front diff. If won't be worn obviously, but the oil might be past its time, and bearings may have flat spots for never having been rotated. This is why its good to go find a dirt road and put you car in 4WD at least once a month if your not getting the chance to go wheeling.
Sorry if I sound pessemistic but i can be paranoid at times. Don't be scared from buying the car, when I bought my Sierra, a few things had to be done to get it in state I felt OK with, and I paid $4500 just over 2 years ago, then spent about $600 'fixing' it.
Beastmavster raises the lack of use issue, which is quite possible. The only possible problem arrising from this is the front diff. If won't be worn obviously, but the oil might be past its time, and bearings may have flat spots for never having been rotated. This is why its good to go find a dirt road and put you car in 4WD at least once a month if your not getting the chance to go wheeling.
Sorry if I sound pessemistic but i can be paranoid at times. Don't be scared from buying the car, when I bought my Sierra, a few things had to be done to get it in state I felt OK with, and I paid $4500 just over 2 years ago, then spent about $600 'fixing' it.
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