Hey i was just wondering if people could give me an idea of what shocks and lengths they are in travel. For Range Rover that is
Cheers
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Travel of your RR shocks
Moderator: Micka
I have OME 764s up front (free length of 435mm @ 220lbs), and 762 rears (free length of 435mm @ 300-340ibs - soon to be 763: 425mm @ 360lbs) with 20mm spacer. No castor correction.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
A 14in travel shock in the rear is about the most you can use IMO. The centre A frame ball will limit the articulation before the 14in travel shock will. Its very hard to fit 14in travel shocks under a rangie floor while maintaining stock bumpstops.
In the front the most you can get from the radius arms is about 10inches of shock travel flex. This is with either the drilled bushes or the new slotted bushes that we are making. The beauty of running 14in travel shocks in the front is that they are overkill for travel and you dont have to worry about setting them at the correct mounting heights to allow max travel.
Sam
PS We have actually done a run of 50 sets of these slotted bushes but arnt selling then yet cause we are evaluating there on road performance and our liability issues with such a suspension modification producing more body roll on road. These bushes arnt a big dollar money making product for us by any means - more of just an interest thing and if we sell them to somebody and they run off the road and hurt somebody because the car handles differently I can imagine that we could easily get our arses sued and loose much, much more that the sale of these bushes could ever produce in a life time. So ATM the risk associated with us selling these bushes isnt worth anywhere near the gains which is a big PITA. But we are working on it.
In the front the most you can get from the radius arms is about 10inches of shock travel flex. This is with either the drilled bushes or the new slotted bushes that we are making. The beauty of running 14in travel shocks in the front is that they are overkill for travel and you dont have to worry about setting them at the correct mounting heights to allow max travel.
Sam
PS We have actually done a run of 50 sets of these slotted bushes but arnt selling then yet cause we are evaluating there on road performance and our liability issues with such a suspension modification producing more body roll on road. These bushes arnt a big dollar money making product for us by any means - more of just an interest thing and if we sell them to somebody and they run off the road and hurt somebody because the car handles differently I can imagine that we could easily get our arses sued and loose much, much more that the sale of these bushes could ever produce in a life time. So ATM the risk associated with us selling these bushes isnt worth anywhere near the gains which is a big PITA. But we are working on it.
Sam, sell them to me!...I'm all the way in Lebanon and there is no legal system what so ever here, so I can't sue your arse!
NB. If you want me to try them out for you on twisty mountain roads with my truck, shoot them over, I'll even pay the shipping...
NB. If you want me to try them out for you on twisty mountain roads with my truck, shoot them over, I'll even pay the shipping...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
basically one front arm is cut in half about 10 inchesfrom the diff mount
2 plates are welded on the piece that connects to the body
one each side so they extend about six inches foward, past the cut
place the cut off bit of arm back where it came from, sliding it between the 2 plates
drill a hole just forwards of the cut through the 2 plates and arm
place a bolt in this hole, this provides the pivot
drill another hole 5 inches foward ofthe other one
this is the removable pin-hole
the pin is left in for on-road travel
remove the pin offroad
this should take some bind from the four bolts on the diff housing.
to test this theory, just remove one of the 4 front radius arm bolts, then ramp the rover or nissan
you should undo the bottom of the shock to check extra travel
this is a rough explanation and i don't know how to post photos
(canlifthevyfingstho)
can anyone help????
2 plates are welded on the piece that connects to the body
one each side so they extend about six inches foward, past the cut
place the cut off bit of arm back where it came from, sliding it between the 2 plates
drill a hole just forwards of the cut through the 2 plates and arm
place a bolt in this hole, this provides the pivot
drill another hole 5 inches foward ofthe other one
this is the removable pin-hole
the pin is left in for on-road travel
remove the pin offroad
this should take some bind from the four bolts on the diff housing.
to test this theory, just remove one of the 4 front radius arm bolts, then ramp the rover or nissan
you should undo the bottom of the shock to check extra travel
this is a rough explanation and i don't know how to post photos
(canlifthevyfingstho)
can anyone help????
I ran a hinged arm for about a year. thought it was the best thing till I finally took it out and went with the drilled bushes.
The hinge gets you lots of travel but gives is a few stability problems in off camber situations. This setup will try to flip you over sometimes because all the front axle reaction torque is reacted by one arm only and it will lift up and push down on one side only which is a PITA if you are on the limit of rolling and it pushes you the wrong way.
Lots of travel though - I could max out 14in travel shocks with the arm hinged.
Had a bit of a look on my harddrive and this is the only pic I could find. The rear half is welded and the rear too bolts are only there to reinforce the joint. The front most bolt is the "hinge" bolt and the second bolt is the removable "pin" bolt.
Ill see if I can find any more pics of it in action. The actual arm is in my shed if anybody wants it.
Sam
The hinge gets you lots of travel but gives is a few stability problems in off camber situations. This setup will try to flip you over sometimes because all the front axle reaction torque is reacted by one arm only and it will lift up and push down on one side only which is a PITA if you are on the limit of rolling and it pushes you the wrong way.
Lots of travel though - I could max out 14in travel shocks with the arm hinged.
Had a bit of a look on my harddrive and this is the only pic I could find. The rear half is welded and the rear too bolts are only there to reinforce the joint. The front most bolt is the "hinge" bolt and the second bolt is the removable "pin" bolt.
Ill see if I can find any more pics of it in action. The actual arm is in my shed if anybody wants it.
Sam
modman wrote:can someone please explain where and which bushes are drilled
thanks
Here is lots of reading - check out these threads.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56697&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=81597&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61187&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115952&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
These links were found using a search and this is the search results page so check out the other links here as well.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=903709&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
Lost of reading!!
Sam
Strange Rover wrote:Damn - theres some modifications going on in that pic. All you fawkers wont know what the hell you are looking at
Sam
Frankly.... effin scary
Never seen one in action but some of those off camber weight transfers scare the bejessus out of me as it is without one of my suspension components being able to fold up
and only on one side!!!
Try these for more freak factor...
http://www.roverworld.com/hingedra.htm
http://www.d-90.com/prod/hinge.html
The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark."
modman wrote:holy shit sam!!!
sometimes you make my head hurt and i did't even put a ring on your finger
any quick ideas how to extend the front turret??
i want to run 80 series konis
spacers between the ring and turret?
Cut them and weld them. Here is a pic of one of mine. This has been extended by about 100mm and runs 14in travel shocks. The top of it has also been modified to clear the brake master cylinder on the range rover. The other side just has the normal top welded back on but this is the best pic that I can find.
Sam
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