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GU NISSAN PATROL PROBLEM

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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GU NISSAN PATROL PROBLEM

Post by Hardzy »

I Have just purchased a gu patrol 3.0 TD, i live in newcastle and have done roughly 3000kms in it since ownership (2 weeks). the car has 192000kms on the clock but has been well looked after. now my problem is on my way home the other day, i decided to call in at stockton beach to see how the patrol handles the sand. but since then, the car has no guts above 2rpm. i can still hear the turbo whistle below and above the 2000rpm but its like the turbo has been switched off. it doesnt blow any smoke or make any weird noises so it has got me completely stuffed. has anyone out the had this problem before??
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Re: GU NISSAN PATROL PROBLEM

Post by bogged »

Air flow sensor... about $1100
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Post by Inshore »

No the mass air flow sensor is part no 22680-AD210 and costs around $200.00. This will fix your flat spots and get the car running like it should. By the way, it is $1100.00 for the whole air box/filter assembly. I hope this helps. Cheers. Russell.
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Post by bogged »

Inshore wrote:No the mass air flow sensor is part no 22680-AD210 and costs around $200.00. This will fix your flat spots and get the car running like it should. By the way, it is $1100.00 for the whole air box/filter assembly. I hope this helps. Cheers. Russell.
in that case some dealers need reaming, since thats the going rate everywhere for these poor saps :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Post by bluemq »

If it's a hot wire AFM try (very gently) cleaning it.

Worth a try, worst case you have to replace it anyway.

Used to work a charm for my old AFM's.

Have since ditched them for mechanical injection :D
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Post by XR6T »

I had a new AFS installed for $260.00
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Post by nqgu »

Be careful driving it when it is like this. The boost will be very high , 21 psi at 2000 rpm in my auto GU, due to the VNC not controlling boost when the MAF is dead.
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Post by mud4b »

bluemq wrote:If it's a hot wire AFM try (very gently) cleaning it.

Worth a try, worst case you have to replace it anyway.

Used to work a charm for my old AFM's.

Have since ditched them for mechanical injection :D

hi bud. any suggestions as to how to clean these?
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Post by MJP »

Do the 3 litres have the "thimble" fuel filter like the 4.2's? If so this sounds like the same problem 'RoldIT' had two weeks ago when we went camping. Couldn't rev over 2 grand and was gutless under load. Cleaned the filter and it was as good as new again. I have seen a post on here with pics showing where it is.

here's the link:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... uel+filter

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Post by Mrs Ludacris »

You can try an electrical contact cleaner in a pressure pack to clean it.

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Post by mud4b »

MJP wrote:Do the 3 litres have the "thimble" fuel filter like the 4.2's? If so this sounds like the same problem 'RoldIT' had two weeks ago when we went camping. Couldn't rev over 2 grand and was gutless under load. Cleaned the filter and it was as good as new again. I have seen a post on here with pics showing where it is.

here's the link:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... uel+filter

Cheers,
Mark

i have the gu 2.8 td. it had no filter at all.. so this did not work.
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Post by mud4b »

Mrs Ludacris wrote:You can try an electrical contact cleaner in a pressure pack to clean it.

LudaCris

done this yesterday (it was dirty as hell) so thanks for that. but it did not work..


ive got a feeling its the injectors.
does anyone know if they are the old type single squirt (cheap) or the newer type multi pattern (expensive)..
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Post by MyGQ »

i think they are the multi patern since they are a Direct Injection system on the 3L TD.
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Post by Dee »

3.0 Turbo Diesel AFM replacement cost me $290... not $1100.

That sounds like what your problem is. Maybe change the air filter at the same time, and use a standard nissan paper jobbie, not a k&n.
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Post by Dzltec »

Injectors on the 3L are twin spring,multi hole, non servicable. I would be looking at simple cheaper items first before doing injectors, they really dont stop a vehicle from revving up.
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Post by manno74 »

Check for your fault first dude.

If it's gone into limp mode, then the engine check light should be on too...? If so, get the fault off the ECU and you can look in the right place (maybe - it generally points you in the right direction).

Look on here for similar threads, I have posted it all before, if you can't find it, I'll try to fill in th gaps. Best bet, get the manual (Gregory's make the manual for the ZD30 Patrol, good for chasis info too).
2000 GU II, 6.5L Chev Diesel (ex ZD30), lift, bar+winch, rear bar, drawers, fuel tanks I need a personal loan to fill... most of the regular touring gear.
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Post by bluemq »

mud4b wrote:
bluemq wrote:If it's a hot wire AFM try (very gently) cleaning it.

Worth a try, worst case you have to replace it anyway.

Used to work a charm for my old AFM's.

Have since ditched them for mechanical injection :D

hi bud. any suggestions as to how to clean these?
Take it apart (there is 4 screws that reveal the hot wire), very carefully use a cotton tip soaked in metho or carby cleaner and give the wire a clean.

Be very careful as they can be fragile if forced hard and you really don't need much pressure to clean oil/dirt off the wire.
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Post by dirtyGQ »

AFS is very very common problem on the 3.0 .
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