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HD track rods
Moderator: Micka
HD track rods
Who has made their own track rod or sleeved a stock one? What did you do (and any pics?).
Managed to turn mine into a boomerang yesterday driving a very easy track at the powerlines (had a slight bow in it already which didn't help). Thanks to the high-lift jack I got it reasonably straight again.
Managed to turn mine into a boomerang yesterday driving a very easy track at the powerlines (had a slight bow in it already which didn't help). Thanks to the high-lift jack I got it reasonably straight again.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
good idea - only problem is it will look very home made if I get pulled up for an inspection.cloughy wrote:Straighten it and weld 20 x 20 angle to it, works a treat, the angle is tougher alone then the original arm
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
HD track rods
G'day Ben
I have sleeved my original one with some heavy wall seamless tube
and it bent where the adjuster is.
I think the best solution is a one piece unit with one end threaded left hand to adjust toe in/out .
Evidently the MD units are very good .
Smithy jnr told me to keep the standard drag link as this will be the fuse instead of your steering box.
Regards
Michael.
I have sleeved my original one with some heavy wall seamless tube
and it bent where the adjuster is.
I think the best solution is a one piece unit with one end threaded left hand to adjust toe in/out .
Evidently the MD units are very good .
Smithy jnr told me to keep the standard drag link as this will be the fuse instead of your steering box.
Regards
Michael.
out of my mind, back soon.
HD track rods
G'day Ben
I have sleeved my original one with some heavy wall seamless tube
and it bent where the adjuster is.
I think the best solution is a one piece unit with one end threaded left hand to adjust toe in/out .
Evidently the MD units are very good .
Smithy jnr told me to keep the standard drag link as this will be the fuse instead of your steering box.
Regards
Michael.
I have sleeved my original one with some heavy wall seamless tube
and it bent where the adjuster is.
I think the best solution is a one piece unit with one end threaded left hand to adjust toe in/out .
Evidently the MD units are very good .
Smithy jnr told me to keep the standard drag link as this will be the fuse instead of your steering box.
Regards
Michael.
out of my mind, back soon.
Thanks for the responses guys. My track rod was too bent to sleeve, and I had no luck finding a 2nd hand one that was straight. I looked at making one, but there was no way I could get the LH 11/16x20tpi tap in time.
So I ended up buying one from Jordan Rover Tech - looks like it is the one made by QT services in the UK. Should have bought a MD one, but needed it ASAP, and this one looks pretty solid.
So does anyone else have one of these? And has anyone ever bent one?
So I ended up buying one from Jordan Rover Tech - looks like it is the one made by QT services in the UK. Should have bought a MD one, but needed it ASAP, and this one looks pretty solid.
So does anyone else have one of these? And has anyone ever bent one?
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Hi Ben.
The track rod you 've bought is a SUMO bar, now supplied through QT.
They are very good bars, but not indestructible. They are about 29mm OD. I ran them on my winch comp 90 for 3 or so years and I did end up bending one. Later on i added a box section guard as well to stop it hapening again.
At least if they bend slighylt they will protect something further down the line. IMHO the locknuts are a better system of clamping the rods in place on the tie rod ends than the more traditional "clamp" such as on OEM or MD.
I am looking at buying stronger rods soon and would like to go with them over MD if only for cost. Plus the MD steering damper relocaion kit does not fit these bars as its designed for a 32mm rod.
Hope this helps.
James
The track rod you 've bought is a SUMO bar, now supplied through QT.
They are very good bars, but not indestructible. They are about 29mm OD. I ran them on my winch comp 90 for 3 or so years and I did end up bending one. Later on i added a box section guard as well to stop it hapening again.
At least if they bend slighylt they will protect something further down the line. IMHO the locknuts are a better system of clamping the rods in place on the tie rod ends than the more traditional "clamp" such as on OEM or MD.
I am looking at buying stronger rods soon and would like to go with them over MD if only for cost. Plus the MD steering damper relocaion kit does not fit these bars as its designed for a 32mm rod.
Hope this helps.
James
Hmm - should have bought an MD one if they are 3mm bigger diameter - might have to sleeve it... If you want to buy one James - PM me if you want to know the price I paid.James Brittain wrote:Hi Ben.
The track rod you 've bought is a SUMO bar, now supplied through QT.
They are very good bars, but not indestructible. They are about 29mm OD. I ran them on my winch comp 90 for 3 or so years and I did end up bending one. Later on i added a box section guard as well to stop it hapening again.
At least if they bend slighylt they will protect something further down the line. IMHO the locknuts are a better system of clamping the rods in place on the tie rod ends than the more traditional "clamp" such as on OEM or MD.
I am looking at buying stronger rods soon and would like to go with them over MD if only for cost. Plus the MD steering damper relocaion kit does not fit these bars as its designed for a 32mm rod.
Hope this helps.
James
Now you tell me - so where is mine?duncan wrote:I made one for Jbell and a disco owner out of 32mm 4340 chrome molley bar dont think it will bend.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
...as said protect it with a box section. Used a Defender rod on the D1 and build a box section around it and so far very good....unless of course you are bending it because of high steer loads??
The US has ones available that are shaped to 'hide' them behind the diff housing better too.
The US has ones available that are shaped to 'hide' them behind the diff housing better too.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
Wouldn't be anywhere near as strong as increasing the diameter - and what would you fill it with.disco95 wrote:Ok, so plenty of you guys sleve them, is there a reason why you couldn't fill one instead?
Make the bar solid so to speak. Obviously you'd still have he issue where the adjuster is.
Happy with the quality and standard of machining of the QT/Sumo track rod.
The box section guards are an idea, more heavy bolt-on steel bits though... However the stock one bent because of side loading - front right wheel dropped into a hole, and must have copped a hit at the rear, which buckled the tie rod. No actual tie-rod contact, so in that case a guard wouldn't have helped.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Maxi drive are 32mm diameter - AFAIK the largest (and probably strongest) commercially available track rods.Aquarangie wrote:Curiously, has anyone bent a Maxi Drive one? Dunno if anyone on here has them but I was considering buying a set.
Could make my own but the rear one has been re-bent back into shape too many times in the last few months
Trav
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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