Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ruff, see where the housing is sitting. That is about the height it has to be from the chassis. Even at that distance i will not get much uptravel on the drivers side. I am probably going to cut the chassis off the front and make a new crossmember that steps up from the rails.

its going to be a bit taller than i wanted.

I am thinking about making new housings for the diffs. Keep the centre and knuckle sections and basically retube them. The housing are bloody thick, its not going to be carrying loads so i think i can lighten them up a bit.

mickbj42 wrote:Ruff, see where the housing is sitting. That is about the height it has to be from the chassis. Even at that distance i will not get much uptravel on the drivers side. I am probably going to cut the chassis off the front and make a new crossmember that steps up from the rails.

its going to be a bit taller than i wanted.

I am thinking about making new housings for the diffs. Keep the centre and knuckle sections and basically retube them. The housing are bloody thick, its not going to be carrying loads so i think i can lighten them up a bit.

that's a lot more work! keeping cog down is good but that'll take you a long time to do, even if it just the front housing. if it's mounted in the same position as the pic, what percentage of up travel do you think you'd get compared to down travel?

i think it up travel at the shock will be around 4 inches. Not exactly sure. I am going to wait til i make my links up before i measure shocks etc.

The links will be really flat with the diff in that position.

just notch the housing and the frame, bout 3 inch out of the frame and 1/2 inch off the housing

EASY

bj on roids wrote:just notch the housing and the frame, bout 3 inch out of the frame and 1/2 inch off the housing

EASY

it is the centre that is going to hit the chassis, not the housing

mickbj42 wrote:

bj on roids wrote:just notch the housing and the frame, bout 3 inch out of the frame and 1/2 inch off the housing

EASY

it is the centre that is going to hit the chassis, not the housing

turn it around...how gay is that

maybe mill down the ring gear a little, its clear someone has milled a little off your brain

So are you looking to work for TIP TOP Bakeries when this is finished?

































Because it looks like you are making a bread crate on the back of it

let me finish it! It will look ok when its done.

Cheeky devils ha mick----






Need any wood ?

Dozoor wrote:Cheeky devils ha mick----






Need any wood ?

I will need some soon, i just have to finish mocking it all up in steel first!!

I will go get a pic of how it looks now for you smart ass bastards!

ok here they are

and another one

and another

Does that rear section bolt on?
Why?

RUFF wrote:Does that rear section bolt on?
Why?

It is welded to the chassis but it bolts to the back of the cage. I want to be able to pull the body off it if i need to do any major engine, g/box or transfer work.

Plus i am a bolt on bandit!

Dude, if you line that thing and fill it full of ice....... It will hold a lot of beer.













Seriously though it is lookin good Mick, i'm only hanging shit on ya cause i'm jellous.
I take it the frame work on the back is to house the fuel tank?

fuk the fuel tank off, the beer idea is a good one. As is being able to strip the body off quickly

Wendle wrote:fuk the fuel tank

dont try and give him any ideas now

it just so happens that an esky will fit in there quite nicely! :wink:

The body will come off by pulling about 30 bolts plus some wires and hoses. I think it should be about a 30-40 minute job to do it.

i nearly have all the body mounts completed now

Thats looken real good Mick
Hayden is good at fibre glassing so he should help you out no worries with lining the esky. It's gunna be great you'll be able to cart all the piss for the trips out

the cage mounts are pretty much done now

some pics

another

another

another

cool! now i get how you plan to take the body off. the rear section will stay on but the cab and front will be removable right? nice work. taking shape quite well now. will your head be behind the b pillar? you've got room for the seat to go back a bit. no more ROPS behind the b-pillar?

N*A*M wrote:cool! now i get how you plan to take the body off. the rear section will stay on but the cab and front will be removable right? nice work. taking shape quite well now. will your head be behind the b pillar? you've got room for the seat to go back a bit. no more ROPS behind the b-pillar?

The front section of the cage, firewall etc will pull off and the rear will stay.

My head will be directly under the b pillar. I still have to make the stays that will go from the b pillar to the top to the rear hoop on the chassis.

Very nice work Mick, it's a credit to you.
I'll look foward to seeing it at xrcc.

man it looks filth..it really does...and the best part is..it still resembly what it was created from

But on a more serious note..,

With all these chasis mods your doing , it's obviously for hard caw comps and so forth...is there any design rules and regulations for this vehicle to be permitted into competitions like..TTC etc etc..

EG:
rally cars must follow CAMS rulings
drag cars must follow ANDRA rulings

You get the idea

Of course if the car if just to be trailers everywhere and used for private fun, i would think it would be "run what you brung"..and not be subject to anything accept public and peer prasies

Any directions to design regs and rules would be great for competition vehicles

Punchy wrote:man it looks filth..it really does...and the best part is..it still resembly what it was created from

But on a more serious note..,

With all these chasis mods your doing , it's obviously for hard caw comps and so forth...is there any design rules and regulations for this vehicle to be permitted into competitions like..TTC etc etc..

EG:
rally cars must follow CAMS rulings
drag cars must follow ANDRA rulings

You get the idea

Of course if the car if just to be trailers everywhere and used for private fun, i would think it would be "run what you brung"..and not be subject to anything accept public and peer prasies

Any directions to design regs and rules would be great for competition vehicles

This is where 4WDing is a little backward! Every comp has it own rules, most are similar though. The majority of comps require rego and engineer certificates but i think this will change with more and more unreg'd rigs being built.

I am basically building this for XRCC, the rules for this are posted on their website www.quantemtek.com.au/xrcc

I will trailer it, why drive a noisy old slug around when you can tow it in climate controlled comfort!

The idea was to build a buggy that still looks like sort of like a landcruiser.