Outer Limits 4x4 Board

thanks mate, yeah you certainly will as the booster retains vacuum with a one way valve factory so it has vacuum in it even when on boost, and as soon as you let go of the throttle the car goes back to vacuum anyway.

Nutter,

what nozzles are you using for your water/meth (brand, where to buy) i've got a hold of some 'Flat jet 65 deg spray' (JBR 0260 T1, www.techpro.com.au) nozzles that will flow 0.230 lpm at 3 bar.

Is this too much flow for a td42 or too little pressure at 3 bar?

Instead of using an electric pump i'm going to use air pressure. Using an old 9L fire extiguisher as a reservoir, and on board air compressor. I'll use a regulator to control the pressure on the reservoir to the desired pressure (spec sheet from techpro gives flow rates through nozzle at different pressures) to deliver the water/meth to the nozzle through a solenoid valve (egt controlled).

My egt guage is one of the Auber digital ones with the inbuilt relay, so i can trigger the water/meth at 400 ish degrees.

I also want to add lpg but only a small constant amount kicking in around 6 psi or so. I'm planning on doing this a similar way, Regulator at a constant pressure feeding through a nozzle at a known rate on a Hobbs switch.

My patrol is a 93 Td42 ute with DTS kit, Pump with aneroid(standard pump i think), i'm fitting a front mount intercooler in the next week or 2 (evil bay 600x300x70 deltafin) cheers


please post your thoughts

Steve_GQ wrote:Nutter,

what nozzles are you using for your water/meth (brand, where to buy) i've got a hold of some 'Flat jet 65 deg spray' (JBR 0260 T1, www.techpro.com.au) nozzles that will flow 0.230 lpm at 3 bar.

Is this too much flow for a td42 or too little pressure at 3 bar?

Instead of using an electric pump i'm going to use air pressure. Using an old 9L fire extiguisher as a reservoir, and on board air compressor. I'll use a regulator to control the pressure on the reservoir to the desired pressure (spec sheet from techpro gives flow rates through nozzle at different pressures) to deliver the water/meth to the nozzle through a solenoid valve (egt controlled).

My egt guage is one of the Auber digital ones with the inbuilt relay, so i can trigger the water/meth at 400 ish degrees.

I also want to add lpg but only a small constant amount kicking in around 6 psi or so. I'm planning on doing this a similar way, Regulator at a constant pressure feeding through a nozzle at a known rate on a Hobbs switch.

My patrol is a 93 Td42 ute with DTS kit, Pump with aneroid(standard pump i think), i'm fitting a front mount intercooler in the next week or 2 (evil bay 600x300x70 deltafin) cheers


please post your thoughts

ok 60psi+ plus is best for water atomization so 4 bar, the compressed air idea will work but with good quality 90PSI 12V pumps for $100 is it worth it?

In terms of water a good starting point is to run 10-12% water v fuel on a petrol motor...on a diesel i just cant find anything to give me a good base point so the one I did I did by experimentation, with the tips i use cone spray pattern but they need to be a misting/atomizing tip (expect to pay $30-$35 a tip. On my own setup I have ended up settling on 230cc tip much like the one you listed, this gave the best results on mine. The tips i buy here locally from a place behind Moorabbin airport, cant remember their name right now but could get it if need be.


Danny

hey mate great build
i just sortd out methanol and water injection on my sd33t turbo diesel

currently running a 120cc injector (too small) i am going to upsize to a 280cc injector to come on @ 10psi.

what size tank do you run?
i am using a 150psi sureflow with a check valve (25psi break pressure)

Hey nutter,thuoght i would drop a line.had the job done on my GQ for about 8 weeks now.bloody hell what a difference that made.threw the old carby away and did the fuel injected turbo conversion.pretty much standard but turbo was high flowed.running 32's at time of dyno at 7psi she made 153hp.A hole lot better car to drive now.i would recommend it to anyone with the carby rb30

yeah certainly makes a difference, mines getting some more poke as we speak.....

specialist wrote:Hey nutter,thuoght i would drop a line.had the job done on my GQ for about 8 weeks now.bloody hell what a difference that made.threw the old carby away and did the fuel injected turbo conversion.pretty much standard but turbo was high flowed.running 32's at time of dyno at 7psi she made 153hp.A hole lot better car to drive now.i would recommend it to anyone with the carby rb30

Hey specialist, who done it and how much was it roughly?
Cheers. Lee

Specialist - Huh only 153hp, Is that the same conversion as what nutter did? What hp did you get nutter to do 0-100 in 6.2 seconds?

the 0-100 in 6.2 was 2 years ago with 200 RWKW/ 270 RWHP

Hmm that doesnt sound right. Ive got 310 and mine is 7 seconds flat.

thats ok you can doubt it like the hundreds of others who changed their minds after seeing the videos .

NutterGQ wrote:the 0-100 in 6.2 was 2 years ago with 200 RWKW/ 270 RWHP

what size tyres are you making 200rwkw on

Oh im not doubting it mate. Just wondering why it is quicker to 100 than mine. Maybe its all about the turbo.

it makes that power on 31's......single gas converter is maxed out until i fit another.

Mines quicker than a few more powerful setups becuase i make fullboost by 2500rpm and it holds it to 6000 rpm so its always on boost, lots of guys using big roller turbos becuase they make bigger peak numbers on the dyno but can be slower on the road.

Well i have that option . Mines stock with no boost yet.

Built a new motor 6 weeks ago, new turbo cam, high comp again new extractors and of course all internals, so much better than the old one, it was getting a lot of blow by in the end lol, but now comes the pain in my ass.....

Its for sale guys if anyone's interested including brand new motor i built only 6 weeks ago.

hey nuttergq im in the process of turboing mine, did you need to get the dizzy changed or modified?

Look at the dyno accuracy thread. Rear wheel kW is a s accurate as a guess. On our dyno one Gasresearch converter runs out at 170 ish rear wheel kW. We have a turbo GU 4.5 that makes 380 rwkW that is no faster to 100 than another GQ with 220 rwkW, something to do with the extra ton of weight.

Ive had mine on 3 separate dynos all dyno dynamics and had figures all with in 10kw highest to lowest, all at similar altitudes and winter runs, also at nearly 2.5 tonne even on 10 pound it was running 6.2 secs 0-100 so i'm not doubting it made good power for what it was....the new owner doesn't even want to know about the 10 or 15 psi settings.


As for the dizzy i originally ran it stock with both mechanical and vacuum advance, which worked fine for 2.5 years, i then built the new motor had the vacuum removed and mechanical locked (very well known ignition specialist in s.e melb) and had massive issues with backfiring unless i had the timing so advanced it would ping on 6psi, so 10-15psi wasn't even a dream. after arguing multiple times and having them deny it was the dizzys fault i took it else where had the mechanical returned and surprise surprise runs like a dream, so yeah get it done but i wouldn't lock it i would regraph it.

NutterGQ wrote:Ive had mine on 3 separate dynos all dyno dynamics and had figures all with in 10kw highest to lowest, all at similar altitudes and winter runs, also at nearly 2.5 tonne even on 10 pound it was running 6.2 secs 0-100 so i'm not doubting it made good power for what it was....the new owner doesn't even want to know about the 10 or 15 psi settings.


As for the dizzy i originally ran it stock with both mechanical and vacuum advance, which worked fine for 2.5 years, i then built the new motor had the vacuum removed and mechanical locked (very well known ignition specialist in s.e melb) and had massive issues with backfiring unless i had the timing so advanced it would ping on 6psi, so 10-15psi wasn't even a dream. after arguing multiple times and having them deny it was the dizzys fault i took it else where had the mechanical returned and surprise surprise runs like a dream, so yeah get it done but i wouldn't lock it i would regraph it.

Dyno Dynamics dynos use a standard that is 20 years old, deleted and for engine of less that 0.82 liter capacity and a maximum of 20 hp. You might as well measure the power with a piece of string.
I am not sure what happened with your distributor but locked timing works fine, it sounds to me that your distributor phasing was out...this is when the rotor is not pointing directly at the pickup in the cap, advancing the timing obviously improved the phasing but at too greater amounts of timing. The only way you could run a curve with boost over 10 psi is if you had a boost retard unit.

Joel

Joel i mucked around so much with it and the strike pattern was nearly in the middle of the rotor button but i still had problems so I gave up and had it re graphed, with that said it ran 3 years at 10-15psi with mechanical advance hooked up, using only the vacuum advance unit as a retard unit (on boost it would pull timing out) never melted the motor even with a 6 minute sustained standstill in second gear with the throttle wide open, so it wasn't pinging or leaning it was pretty happy for a long time.

I know a lot of guys lock them and have good run but the "professionals" who did mine did something that made it un happy lol.

Either way the cars new owner will be happy as its all in order now.

Can anyone tell me if the gr throttle body/mixer can be used with other brand coverters etc? And what size throttle bodie would be a minimum for the RB30 N/A. And what size minimum for turbo in low boost application?

Yes it can be used with other simple type converters, The B2 style converter im pretty sure was based on the old IMPCO L (could be wrong its been a while), main difference is the B2 is usually fitted with a lighter spring on the primary side I think.

Why would would bother when a genuine new B2 is $175-$200 with steel h at is beyond me, if your thinking to use one you've got lying around or a wreckers special....I would suggest you don't.


Low boost doesn't say much without knowing the size of the turbo your using, so I couldn't comment on the sizing.