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!! Has Anyone Put a 4age in a Sierra LWB OR SWB !!
Bazooka wrote:As Drew says use the T50 gearbox. Swap to a hydraulic clutch and you wont have any problems. If you dont/cant make your own custom mounts etc then there is a guy up near Bundaberg that will put together a conversion kit for you. He will supply engine mounts, gearbox mount, jackshaft and radiator. This does make things easier to fit the engine in.
If you dont already have upgraded springs you will need to due to the extra weight of the new engine. A brake upgrade is also a good thing. As the 1L wont have a brake booster you can use a remote unit from an old Ford or similar. I did this along with Vitara front brakes. Makes a big improvement and engineers like it. A swirl pot in the fuel system is also a good idea when changing to EFI.
how much u tihink for the set up can u find out for me and let me know or maybe a number and ill get into contact with the bloke
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
bought the beast cost me $650 so going to cost me $850 to get home
has a little bit more rust that wat i expected tho so yeh needs new guards doors some welding work nothing to mayor also needs the part that runs over the top of the car as has rust in the bottom of one side need bits in fire wall to e choped out and re welded one side can be sanded and welded back the other needs a new piece umm what elese has rust in some other parts nothing to mayor i hope lol
has a little bit more rust that wat i expected tho so yeh needs new guards doors some welding work nothing to mayor also needs the part that runs over the top of the car as has rust in the bottom of one side need bits in fire wall to e choped out and re welded one side can be sanded and welded back the other needs a new piece umm what elese has rust in some other parts nothing to mayor i hope lol
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
Try_me,
Take this the right way, but that's one rusty car you have there, in fact, I don't think I have seen one that rusty that was still saleable. I guess it has spent a fair amount of time on stockton or similar.
You will need a whole lot of rust repair parts judging by what you can see so if I were you, before you get carried away with engine swaps etc, I would go looking for a non running SWB soft top, or even just a tub. If you are keen, try and find a 1.3 NT tub, this will net you boosted brakes, a better dash design and lots of other useful bits, including a wider transmission tunnel to help fit the bigger gearbox.
There are a couple of areas that will be rusty that you haven't seen yet, once the guards come off, you will find rust in the tub behind the guards around the door hinges and along the bottom of the guards.
The real issue will be rust under the windscreen base in the cowl. you will need to strip the car down and fold the windscreen. You might get a nasty shock - sometimes the foam between the windscreen and cowl will bring half the cowl with it.
Suzuki aren't making more of these, and LWB's make up about 10% of sierras in Australia - take you time and do it properly. They are worth the effort for the extra length - they climb so much better and the extra room makes it all worthwhile.
PS I recently rebuilt a nasty old ex farm ute and I really enjoyed the therapy of bringing something that was ready to go to the tip into something that is a different colour and ready to go to the tip (after I had driven it on a few hard trips
)
As I said, don't get offended, you have done well for the money, I just can't stress enough that trust me, it is worth repairing properly with steel rather than bogging it up and hoping for the best.
Steve.
Take this the right way, but that's one rusty car you have there, in fact, I don't think I have seen one that rusty that was still saleable. I guess it has spent a fair amount of time on stockton or similar.
You will need a whole lot of rust repair parts judging by what you can see so if I were you, before you get carried away with engine swaps etc, I would go looking for a non running SWB soft top, or even just a tub. If you are keen, try and find a 1.3 NT tub, this will net you boosted brakes, a better dash design and lots of other useful bits, including a wider transmission tunnel to help fit the bigger gearbox.
There are a couple of areas that will be rusty that you haven't seen yet, once the guards come off, you will find rust in the tub behind the guards around the door hinges and along the bottom of the guards.
The real issue will be rust under the windscreen base in the cowl. you will need to strip the car down and fold the windscreen. You might get a nasty shock - sometimes the foam between the windscreen and cowl will bring half the cowl with it.
Suzuki aren't making more of these, and LWB's make up about 10% of sierras in Australia - take you time and do it properly. They are worth the effort for the extra length - they climb so much better and the extra room makes it all worthwhile.
PS I recently rebuilt a nasty old ex farm ute and I really enjoyed the therapy of bringing something that was ready to go to the tip into something that is a different colour and ready to go to the tip (after I had driven it on a few hard trips
)As I said, don't get offended, you have done well for the money, I just can't stress enough that trust me, it is worth repairing properly with steel rather than bogging it up and hoping for the best.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
yeh well understood Gwagensteve
like the little thing how bad do u guys think it will be to fix this rust?? any ideas also
looking into getting a doner car or just parts whats the better option??
how much would a wrecker want or should i wait and buy them off here or something. only thing now is the rust in the guards the window dsnt look that bad not to worried but it might be not sure if its going to be that bad apart from that the car isnt to bad.
my old sierra the side skirts when i removed them looked as tho someone had made swiss cheese out of the metal so this dsnt look that bad i dont no you guys think its really worth doing up or should i just waste my 50 deposite and tell him not to worry
like the little thing how bad do u guys think it will be to fix this rust?? any ideas also
looking into getting a doner car or just parts whats the better option??
how much would a wrecker want or should i wait and buy them off here or something. only thing now is the rust in the guards the window dsnt look that bad not to worried but it might be not sure if its going to be that bad apart from that the car isnt to bad.
my old sierra the side skirts when i removed them looked as tho someone had made swiss cheese out of the metal so this dsnt look that bad i dont no you guys think its really worth doing up or should i just waste my 50 deposite and tell him not to worry
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
I just called the guy who makes them. He is in hospital at the moment which is unfortunate. He says he can still put the kits together if needed. Cost is $960AUS which supplies custom 3 core radiator, new weld on engine chassis mounts, bolt on gearbox mount, new jackshaft and required nuts and bolts. He does take some time to make them so if your not in a hurry thats fine. What we need to know is what gearbox your using and what model Sierra its for as gearbox mounting can be different.zuku26 wrote:bazooka:
This guy that will supply motor and tranny mounts to bolt on...Can I have his info. As I would like to buy a set or 2 and ship them here to the states.
I can probably get some pics of what it comes with as I have a half mounted kit at home.
I have an 84 LWB with a 4k and toyota 5 speed in it whats the best ugrade from there?Bazooka wrote:The number at the front of the engine code for the Toyota engines designates the capacity for that particular engine but it does not always refer straight to the same numeric displacement. They also differ between series of engine.
K series engines;
K = 1100cc
2K = 1000cc
3K = 1200cc
4K = 1300cc
5K = 1500cc
7K = 1800cc
These numbers are specific to the K series engines. Take the A series engines;
2A = 1300cc
3A = 1500cc
4A = 1600cc
5A = 1500cc
6A = 1400cc
7A = 1800cc
Being a K gearbox an A motor wont bnolt up right???
thanks
speaking of time how long and what gear box would be the best to use???Bazooka wrote:I just called the guy who makes them. He is in hospital at the moment which is unfortunate. He says he can still put the kits together if needed. Cost is $960AUS which supplies custom 3 core radiator, new weld on engine chassis mounts, bolt on gearbox mount, new jackshaft and required nuts and bolts. He does take some time to make them so if your not in a hurry thats fine. What we need to know is what gearbox your using and what model Sierra its for as gearbox mounting can be different.zuku26 wrote:bazooka:
This guy that will supply motor and tranny mounts to bolt on...Can I have his info. As I would like to buy a set or 2 and ship them here to the states.
I can probably get some pics of what it comes with as I have a half mounted kit at home.
98 Vitara 2dr Soft Top
Try_me, I am going to sound like my normral "ranty offend everyone" self here but have a think about this.
You have bough a car that will take many many many days to get into presentable condition. I don't know what the RWC rules are like in your state, but in Vic, no structural rust is permitted.
If your car currently has an even close to going 3K and 5 speed in it, that's fine - it will have plenty of power to get the car around, and enough low end torque for you to be able to run a bit of tyre. (once geared properly) IMHO, it would have been better if it had a running 1.0 in it, but there you go, because then you woudln't have to undo an old conversion.
IMHO, you are trying to run before you can walk. You need that car registered and running. If you try and get it 100% finished (i.e 4AGE or something) before you reg it, you will get over the amount of work and bin it before you get close.
Forget about what motor is in it, it will be months before you have it anywhere close to drivable.
An engineer won't go near it until there is no rust in it.
If it currently doesn't have an engineers report for the corolla motor, you will need to get the car certed regardless of what you plan on doing (except for putting a 1.0 back in it)
Step one, ring engineers and find out if they will cert the car you are planning.This will effect what you go looking for in parts because they might demand boosted brakes etc which will mean you would be better going for a wrecked 1.3 tube and putting a whole new firewall in.
100% strip the car. Get it to a bare chassis. There is no guarantee the chassis isn't rusty inside, judging by the body. If you are metro brisbane, maybe call an NDT company like INTICO in Brisbane and ask to get the chassis thickness tested. It might cost you about $300 or so, but you will have peace of mind that the rails are sound.
Just pull the whole body apart and weld in good material. Start with an actual wrecked suzuki tub, forget about making your own patch panels, it will end up hack unless you are a wizard at metal forming.
In about 6 months of weekends, you should have a clean, rust free STEEL (not bog) car that you can now spend some $$$ on to build a legal car that you can trust. I will breeze through a RWC and you will be proud of what you have achieved.
Then you can talk to us about what gearbox to put in it.
If you try and botch it together to get a RWC and bung 100kw in it I give it 12 months max and it will be down the tip.
PS In case you are wondering why I feel so strongly about this, this is exactly what I did 6 months ago to bring back a ex farm hack 1.0 trayback. New cab floor, weld up guards, new doors etcetc. It breezed trhough a roady and now I am working on it, but I had everything I needed to build it up months before I even started working in it and all I did to start with was take it back to stock. If I tried to build it up when I started rebuilding it I would have given up by now.
Steve.
You have bough a car that will take many many many days to get into presentable condition. I don't know what the RWC rules are like in your state, but in Vic, no structural rust is permitted.
If your car currently has an even close to going 3K and 5 speed in it, that's fine - it will have plenty of power to get the car around, and enough low end torque for you to be able to run a bit of tyre. (once geared properly) IMHO, it would have been better if it had a running 1.0 in it, but there you go, because then you woudln't have to undo an old conversion.
IMHO, you are trying to run before you can walk. You need that car registered and running. If you try and get it 100% finished (i.e 4AGE or something) before you reg it, you will get over the amount of work and bin it before you get close.
Forget about what motor is in it, it will be months before you have it anywhere close to drivable.
An engineer won't go near it until there is no rust in it.
If it currently doesn't have an engineers report for the corolla motor, you will need to get the car certed regardless of what you plan on doing (except for putting a 1.0 back in it)
Step one, ring engineers and find out if they will cert the car you are planning.This will effect what you go looking for in parts because they might demand boosted brakes etc which will mean you would be better going for a wrecked 1.3 tube and putting a whole new firewall in.
100% strip the car. Get it to a bare chassis. There is no guarantee the chassis isn't rusty inside, judging by the body. If you are metro brisbane, maybe call an NDT company like INTICO in Brisbane and ask to get the chassis thickness tested. It might cost you about $300 or so, but you will have peace of mind that the rails are sound.
Just pull the whole body apart and weld in good material. Start with an actual wrecked suzuki tub, forget about making your own patch panels, it will end up hack unless you are a wizard at metal forming.
In about 6 months of weekends, you should have a clean, rust free STEEL (not bog) car that you can now spend some $$$ on to build a legal car that you can trust. I will breeze through a RWC and you will be proud of what you have achieved.
Then you can talk to us about what gearbox to put in it.
If you try and botch it together to get a RWC and bung 100kw in it I give it 12 months max and it will be down the tip.
PS In case you are wondering why I feel so strongly about this, this is exactly what I did 6 months ago to bring back a ex farm hack 1.0 trayback. New cab floor, weld up guards, new doors etcetc. It breezed trhough a roady and now I am working on it, but I had everything I needed to build it up months before I even started working in it and all I did to start with was take it back to stock. If I tried to build it up when I started rebuilding it I would have given up by now.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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