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hey ppl
just asking if this is going to get in a little bit of trouble
most likely going to buy a 83 LWB sierra with a 4K corolla in it
going to buy my mates 4age with engine work pistons etc for $300
just had a fresh rebuild but crank bearing need to changed as the guy he bought it off didnt run it in properly and blew them
just asking what and how will i set it all up and is it really worth it etc
has anyone done this
cheers nick
Last edited by Try_Me on Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sean wrote:If it has 1.0L NT running gear i would probably stick with the 4K.
Cheers,
Sean
There is no significant difference in strength between 1.0 running gear and 1.3 running gear. (except of the front CV's which are a straight swap)
The best upgrade would be to put 1.3 NT front axles in the 1.0, they are a straight swap and the CV's are bigger, apart from that, rear axles are the same strength, and diffs are very similar.
I have posted before but power is only one side of the driveline breakage problem, the other aspect is traction. Look at it like this- if you were driving on ice, you could put 1000hp through 1.0 stuff an it woudl never break, because you have no traction to work against.
If you have enough traction, you can break stuff with a 1.0. tyres, lockers and gears.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
1.3 cv's are the same on the output end but have one extra spline on the input side (axleside) the bell is phyiscally bigger also, 1 litre cvs are the same as a jimny cv except for the location of the circlip grove being on the inside of the spline insead of the end I guess like a coily sierra too.
Suzuki went backwards here.
1.0 diffs are slightly smaller but not dramatically.
1.0 driveshafts are smaller diameter and have smaller splines.
1.0 yoke pattern is smaller
1.0 CV's are smaller but interchangeable
Transfer case is the same as 1.3 on "luxury" 1.0's (those that have a 4WD light) but has slightly lower gearing.
1.0 front brakes are the same if disc as 1.3 NT/WT
That's a start.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Steady on - my Gwagen doesn't have a 4WD light, but does have a light for each difflock
PS The older (Non 4WD light) transfer cases are apparently superior as the intermediate shaft runs on bearings rather than stationary with little needle bearings on the gears.
Unflortunately, there are no aftermarket gears for these earlier cases.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I have been in and had a lot to do with zooks converted to 4AGE and 4AGZE.
The 4AGE is not good for going slow all the power comes on with a rush at high RPM and this makes it hard to crawl rocks and steep hills. This dosent help the life of the running gear.
It was too mach power for the sierra. It would pretty much flex the chassis up if you planted it. Vibes were really bad and after heaps of stuffing around never got sorted out. Then there were overheating problems etc as well.
I would do the Vitara or Cappacino conversion before going 4age. Im never going down that path again.
The number at the front of the engine code for the Toyota engines designates the capacity for that particular engine but it does not always refer straight to the same numeric displacement. They also differ between series of engine.
K series engines;
K = 1100cc
2K = 1000cc
3K = 1200cc
4K = 1300cc
5K = 1500cc
7K = 1800cc
These numbers are specific to the K series engines. Take the A series engines;
These are not exact sizes. The 3A and 5A do have specifically different capacities but are only slight. They all still fit into the 1500cc profile.
As you can see these numbers do not relate to all families of engine. Take for example the 4A and 4K. Although they have the same number they are different capacities. Yes this can get confusing but thats how they do it.
Oh by the way I do have a 4AGE in my Zook. Running the 1L drivetrain for years without a lot of drama. Blew a few rear diffs with some hard driving but nothing serious enough to worry about an upgrade in the short term. The 4AGE does not have a hell of a lot of torque off the line so breakages are minimal. If you were considering the 4AGZE then there will be more issues, much more torque right from idle. I say do it! You wont regret it. Sure its not an easy conversion like the G16 or whatever but they are so much more of an engine. I wouldn't put anything else in a Sierra.
And once more you cannot bolt an A series engine to a K series gearbox. I will do a writup in the near future about these gearboxes.
like i no obniously engine mounts etc what other stuff wil i need as im not to sure what im getting my self into
also if the car has a 4k it cant be running the 1L gear box it has to be running the 4k gear box right so im going to need to gear box also out of what to fit??
Last edited by Try_Me on Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
first 1 was 83 1.0 litre with jap rwd ge easy to break rear diffs on the road . "broke 3".
next was 86 narrow track with jap rwd ge then supercharged it no broken bits, drove it sydney to perth, killed a headgasket due to contaminated fuel.swapped in a gze as it was quicker than getting the head serviced & i needed the car on the road.
put a gze in a 86 long wb(double locked) for a mate he broke c/v's axles & a diff but he did the same type of damage with the stock 1.3,he's currently going to lux diffs & 35's
then on to a 89 widetrack put the gze in that had some vibe issues because of bent t/case mounts sorted that out broke a rockhopper so put a standard t/case in,fitted lockers then broke a couple of c/v's, more to to with gearing than power,twincharged the gze then broke c/vs,axles,diffs,lockers but not the standard t/case.
now coiled on lux diffs & finally my poor tired jap ge gearbox stripped 2nd gear after 8 years of my driving & 3 zuks. can't complain as they are only good for 200hp in sprinters.
its in pieces getting a lux gearbox/transfer some tidying up & more power.
also have done a 4age 20valve for another mate, nothing broken yet but its driven very hard so something probably will.
for a ge mild gze i would use a jap spec rwd t50 gearbox as its the best of the factory boltup options from toyota
cheers drew....
sound like u kow what ur talking about
what gear box etc would be recommended for me to run a 4age with flat top piston port and polish and i think some other crap not to sure.
and can anyone tell me what i need to drop this enigine into this car?? or does anone know of any wright ups on this type of conversion
you need to do mounts eng & box
can be made bolt in (all mine were before the lux diffs then i made a whole new gearbox crossmember because of the double cardan shafts ).
if you use the jap spec t50 gearbox (the only 1 would use for most) you have to convert to hydraulic clutch, depends on what body type for what options for this,
the neatest way is with 85ish hiace mastercyl with hiace/sierra pedal mounted under the dash to the sierra pedalbox.
jackshaft between box & transfer.
thermofan & 3 core or preferably vitara radiator
hoses
As Drew says use the T50 gearbox. Swap to a hydraulic clutch and you wont have any problems. If you dont/cant make your own custom mounts etc then there is a guy up near Bundaberg that will put together a conversion kit for you. He will supply engine mounts, gearbox mount, jackshaft and radiator. This does make things easier to fit the engine in.
If you dont already have upgraded springs you will need to due to the extra weight of the new engine. A brake upgrade is also a good thing. As the 1L wont have a brake booster you can use a remote unit from an old Ford or similar. I did this along with Vitara front brakes. Makes a big improvement and engineers like it. A swirl pot in the fuel system is also a good idea when changing to EFI.
@ "4wd" light
