Outer Limits 4x4 Board

WOuld you be able to email them too me? Need to find a simple solution while i save for one of those kong ones! Not spend the money on that just now ehn the zook needs more then that!

I only have 4.16 t/c with 4.8 toys and 33s all I did was weld some flat bar along the 2 sides of the long mount this held for years then the short side bent so I bent some flat to the shape and welded it to the top of the mount then welded flat on its side to the underside of the mount to stop it flexing. I run 5psi in the 33s on rocks with a 1600 now and it seems to have held up although Im getting 6.5s VERY soon so I might brace it to the bolts tha hold the case together to help spread the load.
Nik

NIK wrote:I only have 4.16 t/c with 4.8 toys and 33s all I did was weld some flat bar along the 2 sides of the long mount this held for years then the short side bent so I bent some flat to the shape and welded it to the top of the mount then welded flat on its side to the underside of the mount to stop it flexing. I run 5psi in the 33s on rocks with a 1600 now and it seems to have held up although Im getting 6.5s VERY soon so I might brace it to the bolts tha hold the case together to help spread the load.
Nik

are you going up in tyre size also? won't 4.8 R&P & 6.5 t/case gears be too low for on-road driving?

The answer is yes it will be too low. But the 1600 may make up for it. I have 6.5 T/c and 4.88 in the diffs and with my 35's it is driveable but cant expect much more than 70kms/hr with the carby 1.3.

what about reinforced tail shafts and reinforced jesus bars

adam runs and hides

i still sell the rings!
you don't need to open the case to install the ring, but it must be braced properly to the arms.
pm me if interested.

Chris

tna racing wrote:what about reinforced tail shafts and reinforced jesus bars

adam runs and hides

I need a new jesus bar because you ripped it out when we had a sleep.......

Roctoy you have a pm!

Yes it will be way to low on road! Atm it does 4000rpm @ 85km/h gps verified. If looked into it and 4.8 is the replacement going from 26" tyres to 33 (32" tall). So Its basically "stock" high range without the t/c gears. Now add 6.5s with 20% high range reduction you would have to change r&p by 20% to get bak to stock. So that brings it back to 3.9 but I think 4.1 might be better as the 33s are heavier with more rolling resistance.
The 1600 with weber does help but it rans out of revs REAL quick. In 60 zones your well into 5th gear so long trips suck atm.
Nik

I've just had a fresh batch of the rings dine, so those who have ordered and paid will have yours in the mail tommorow, those that want them send me a email to roctoy@bigpond.net.au as they tend to go pretty quick.

Cheers Chris

Steve do you have any pics of the mounts that also bolt to the bolts that hold the case together? Or anyone else, I had a look at the case on the weekend trying to work out how you guys have done it. Do you go off the front portion of the case or the half way point? Do you do this with both mounts or just one?
Thanks for any input Nik

Roctoy you just fab up your own Mounts and Bracing to the ring?

NIK how have you found? your 4.1?? Strong enough?? Holding up well??

the roctoy ring is the way to go it will work out better in the long run

Ive wailed on the 4.16 t/c for years without using new bearings when I installed it ( I know bad idea but I was young) Im now up to 33s and the only reason Im changing it is because its not low enough for what I want to do. For "normal" people it would be goodwith the 4.8s and 33s but I like to go were the others are scared to go
I have reinforced both mounts and put a bolt through the short side mount with shock rubbers and washers either side and its all held up great.
I know the rock ring would be great but not sure I could design mounts off it that would keep the t/c in the correct position.
Nik

here are some pics of what people have done with the roctoy rings.

Roctoy im not sure if u have said it else where but, what thickness steel do u use? and do u have to run longer bolts?

They look great! If they came with the mounts Id be very interested as I have limited fab skills. But I supose it would be a bugger to post.
Nik

suzuki boy wrote: The roctoy ring looks preety easy but i don't really want to open up the case again!:

I Borught roctoy's buggy and that runs a serria transfer he put on the ring he ran it will 37 creepys or some sort of maxxis tyre

ive now got some 37 mtrs and havent had a issue yet (touch wood)

all thats needed to put the ring is to take out the bolts slide the ring over so the holes line and your up all done......


Mark

ANDY_M wrote:Roctoy im not sure if u have said it else where but, what thickness steel do u use? and do u have to run longer bolts?

the rings are 6mm thick and some of the holes require a washer as a packer between the case and the ring, yes as a rule all the bolts will need to be 6mm longer however some bolts are longer than others in the case so you may only need a few new ones.

Chris

Is it right to say the main reason for Transcase reinforcement is so the Case cant twist,etc with the Torque loads from the shafts. The loads breaks the mounts and can break the gears??


Roctoy
The LWB I have now came with a Ring but separate and not bolted up.
I run Lux 4.8 and Currently S3 but will prob go to S1 as they are a bit too Low. Any thoughts on how too make up a mounts etc? I like the idea of the photos you posted.
OR
I was thinking of making up a flat belly bash plate type set up like Markil.

Remydog05 wrote:Is it right to say the main reason for Transcase reinforcement is so the Case cant twist,etc with the Torque loads from the shafts. The loads breaks the mounts and can break the gears??


Roctoy
The LWB I have now came with a Ring but separate and not bolted up.
I run Lux 4.8 and Currently S3 but will prob go to S1 as they are a bit too Low. Any thoughts on how too make up a mounts etc? I like the idea of the photos you posted.
OR
I was thinking of making up a flat belly bash plate type set up like Markil.

Yep people to brace it and some said you would not need to but i bent my mount as in twist it becasue of the force on the transfer case! Lucky i didnt break the gears and stuff!

it's main purpose is to distribute the load normally placed on the 4 threaded holes into the aluminum case evenly amongst all the other bolts around the case.

did that make any sense?

Yeah Crystal mate

Sorry Roctoy one more question I understand the theory of how and why they work but Ive never seen one in person so if its bolted to the case is it cut out to allow fitment of the standard arms to be bolted back on then welded to to ring? Like I said I have limited fab skills but if it all fit up or just had to be cut to fit around the standard mounts that would be sweet but I dont think I could fab up new mounts to get it in the correct spot so the shafts line up.
How much PM me if you want.
Thanks for your patience Nik

hey guys, not sure if i posting up old info. but i had not seen that skaneracing had a transfer braket out. there site says $410. whats every one think of these? anyone useing them?

that's nice! I like it!

I believe its a product of Calmini....? looks fairly strong too.

looks very similar to the one on calmini's web site. but better.

[quote="jono_785"]hey guys, not sure if i posting up old info. but i had not seen that skaneracing had a transfer braket out. there site says $410. whats every one think of these? anyone useing them?


Yes

I have a Calmini mount which is the same one (I think the Calmini image is an old one) Its heavy but a nice strong mount, I have been through bending the factory ones, then streghening them, then the long side elongated the 4 holes, then cracked the case....... So when I built the LBW I ordered one of these. Only thing is due to a transfer mounted handbrake I had to modify the mount a little to clear the drum.

Mark

hyzook wrote: Only thing is due to a transfer mounted handbrake I had to modify the mount a little to clear the drum.
Mark

I worried about that problem when ordering the Spidertrax mounts but it clears the mount with about 1cm to spare.....

mighty kong has worked well. I wanna flat belly though so i hate to cut it up. I have improved with the welder and will probably sell the mighty kong and make a custom one with a roctoy ring