Outer Limits 4x4 Board

joeblow wrote:mark, various model cressidas.

Hey mark, the rocky road site I posted above suggests 1978 to 1981 model celicas, coronas & cressidas...

Dee wrote:
I'd still prefer to drill a 10mm plate & have it all bolt on/removable though, rather than drillng the chassis & cutting & welding in crush tubes, but that me, as I'm after a bolt on solution.

x2
still looks great all CAD drawn and stuff.
got any pics of it mounted in real life form

You have teh skills in Solidworks.

Thanks for sharing dude.

If I didnt already have the bits and pieces for my ps conversion sitting here Id look into this for sure.

For the record, Im using a 70series cruiser box, Surf pitman arm, and ford teardrop pump.

sweet... now all I need is a design for one on the LJ80 lol

Out of interest do the pitmans suggested already have the correct taper at the tie rod end? I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.

i'm hoping the vit box isn't only bolted to this plate. all box bolts should go through the chassis and not just into the plate.look at the vitara and you will see it has shanked studs that go all the way through.

Hey joe congrats on the baby by the way

joeblow wrote:i'm hoping the vit box isn't only bolted to this plate. all box bolts should go through the chassis and not just into the plate.look at the vitara and you will see it has shanked studs that go all the way through.

Yeah I understand where your coming from. The way the plate works 3 bolts run through the plate and chassis from the passenger side in the standard sierra location. This mounts the plate to the chassis. Then 3 bolts run back through the plate and box from the drivers side. This mounts the box to the plate. This effectively spreads the load across the same area of the chassis as the standard box. I dont see how this is any weaker as standard. Any force on the box would pull the bolts and crush tube through the 3mm chassis wall long before it pulled the bolts through the 10mm plate I would have thought.

Once again I'm not simply trying to defend the way I've done mine. I think your design is fantastic. I like hearing other poeple's points of view. That way if someone points out something inately wrong in what I've done I can improve/ change it. Especially if it saves me from rolling at 100km/h

not saying my way is better, and never have and its not really my design[just using bits and pieces]. just hope people are going about things in the right way.

Hybrid wrote:

joeblow wrote:i'm hoping the vit box isn't only bolted to this plate. all box bolts should go through the chassis and not just into the plate.look at the vitara and you will see it has shanked studs that go all the way through.

This effectively spreads the load across the same area of the chassis as the standard box. I dont see how this is any weaker as standard. Any force on the box would pull the bolts and crush tube through the 3mm chassis wall long before it pulled the bolts through the 10mm plate I would have thought.

x2.

going by what gwagensteve said 11_evl has had this method approved by an engineer. I doubt they would approve somthing weaker than standard/something that would comprimise strenght & safety. They wont even approve cut,welded or modified steering links/arms. And the ones who will, would want to have them x-rayed.

WHAT THE! when did this post turn into a competition? just tryin to show people a different method is all.

joeblow wrote:WHAT THE! when did this post turn into a competition? just tryin to show people a different method is all.

Sorry, Its wasn't my intention to start a competition. I wanted you to point out where you feel the weakness is in the vitara box mount. That way if I feel its credible i can take action to try and make my personal set up better.

my setup IS NOT engineered.

11_evl wrote:my setup IS NOT engineered.

ok, sorry i must have mis-interpreted.

FOR F%$K sake give the guy a break!!
all he was doin is givin you an idea, i say cheerz joe for the info i will probly use it on my sierra project, was gonna use a cruizer setup but i think your idea will save me cash and labour.

I have a Cressida power steering box in my zook, and its a pretty nice install.

Gwagensteve wrote:What makes the cressida box better than a vitara one? The mounting pattern is pretty much the same so the labour to fit doesn't really look any different.

Steve.

The Celica box mounts with the steering shaft parallel to the chassis, unlike the Vitara box where you either need a wedge or a uni joint. This means you just use a rag joint, just like stock.
The steering shaft also bolts straight up without having to cut / weld it to change the length. You just slot out the holes a little on the Toy rag joint. The box also clears the radiator mount and front guard.
Oh, and you can either use the Vitara pitman arm (which has the same taper as your stock drag link but little drop (good for hi-steer), or you can fit a Tarago arm, which has about the same drop as a stock zuk pitman arm, although then the taper is larger, so you need a different TRE.

Hybrid wrote:I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.

What you need is an adaptor plate like this:


Thats what I made to fit mine. I have sold a couple to guys over here in NZ, and I know of one in a truck that has been certified (what you guys would call "engineered") with the conversion.

Ben

Price please Ben Does the plate move the box out enough to use the standard steering column and rag joint, or do you need an angled wedge?

Thanks for the clarification BenT.

Steve.

BenT wrote:

Hybrid wrote:I personally think making an adapter plate for the vit box would be easier than the new bolt pattern, crush tubes and hose work but I love the idea of having the steering line parrallel with the chassis. I overcame the the vit box angle with an additional uni in place of the rubber vibration joint.

What you need is an adaptor plate like this:


Thats what I made to fit mine. I have sold a couple to guys over here in NZ, and I know of one in a truck that has been certified (what you guys would call "engineered") with the conversion.

Ben

Hey Ben,

That plates for the vit right? If so thats exactly what I've done. Just not as fancy with all those pretty curves. Shes just a plain old rectangle.

John

Dee wrote:

11_evl wrote:my setup IS NOT engineered.

ok, sorry i must have mis-interpreted.

X2

Sorry for any misunderstanding.

Bens plate is for a toyota
-----
"I have a Cressida power steering box in my zook, and its a pretty nice install. "
-----

It moves that box out about 10mm to line up wit the standard shaft . His is a copy of my plate I believe .Link to my old web site on the install .

http://www.geocities.com/rota_zuk/Suzuk ... rsteer.htm

Chris

Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.

Hybrid wrote:Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.

x2
i find my vit set up is the same but i was thinking pump

Hybrid wrote:Ah ok. I wasn't sure which box it was for. Is the cressida box a more powerful box than the vit one, as in turning force? Or is the force determined by the pump? I find my vit setup one a bit lacking at times but its intermittent making me think there might be an issue with my box.

The Cressida box seems powerfull enough. I'm using a Vitara pump. I have beadlocked simexs and a front lockright and don't have too many issues. Having said that I haven't driven vit p/s for any length of time, so couldn't really compare. If you believe the Rocky Road website the Toyota setup is stronger.

If you shim the pressure releif valve in the pump you should be able to up the pressure and get some more grunt out of your current setup

neil_se wrote:Price please Ben Does the plate move the box out enough to use the standard steering column and rag joint, or do you need an angled wedge?

Yes, as above, you just use this plate and don't need a wedge. The stock steering shaft then bolts up without needing the length changing or any extra uni's etc.
I'll look into the price again - it's been a couple of years since I made some. I would need to make a few to make it worthwhile, so maybe PM me if you're interested.

Ben

hi just seen you adapter for the cressida. i'm keen so can you please let me know a price for one and to be sent to 2905, A.C.T Australia

thanks

hi just seen you adapter for the cressida. i'm keen so can you please let me know a price for one and to be sent to 2905, A.C.T Australia

thanks

Cressida box is geared strongly in my opinion as my mate had one not connected to his p/s pump and i compared to my vit box with no pump connnected and you can tell the difference in gearing. Only my experience.

looking at the adaptor....do they make m12 countersunk grage 8 bolts?

M12 X100mm Gr 10.9 socket screw seems available. Should be stronger than a Gr8 bolt.

Steve.

the vit power steer box imho is crap, i ran 33 jt2s with air lockers and it struggled pretty bad in ruts, was ok in a straight line.