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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 2:11 pm
by turbodiesel
yes i will put some up over the weekend

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:24 pm
by ianga
I have been speaking to alot of people and they say 2+2 to all you need.

What is wrong with just 4inch springs?

Why is 2+2 better?

what lift

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:39 pm
by 265grunter
hey wazza can u make the 2" blocks out of 75mm diameter stuff be it ali or urethane so i can get 10m blocks for a gq wagon.the 2'' diameter ones are too small.......

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:42 pm
by atari4x4
wild boys 4x4 patrol built by tufflux88 :shock: :? :roll: ;)
Image

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:11 pm
by ianga
i have heard that the alloy body lifts are no good because it stiffens the body up and ends up cracking.

have to go urethane ones so it still has some flex.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:30 pm
by big lux
I think the up side of 2+2 for us qld ppl is its the biggest lift we can run legaly. And i just got my body lift approved and they want urethane blocks with steel crush bars through the center and min grade 8 bolts used.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:37 pm
by bogged
ianga wrote:i have heard that the alloy body lifts are no good because it stiffens the body up and ends up cracking.

have to go urethane ones so it still has some flex.
They will still crack the floor...

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:56 pm
by steel
ianga wrote:i have heard that the alloy body lifts are no good because it stiffens the body up and ends up cracking.

have to go urethane ones so it still has some flex.
Mate,, don't believe everything you hear.

How could a lifting block possibly stiffen the body??

Too many people spout off their opinion as fact.

I've had a few bodylifts on different vehicles, and i've never had a single issue. If they are fitted and maintained properly, you won't have problems.

Most GQ's i've seen that have had cracking floorpans, have never had a bodylift anyway.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:57 pm
by coxy321
steel wrote:
ianga wrote:i have heard that the alloy body lifts are no good because it stiffens the body up and ends up cracking.

have to go urethane ones so it still has some flex.
Mate,, don't believe everything you hear.

How could a lifting block possibly stiffen the body??

Too many people spout off their opinion as fact.

I've had a few bodylifts on different vehicles, and i've never had a single issue. If they are fitted and maintained properly, you won't have problems.

Most GQ's i've seen that have had cracking floorpans, have never had a bodylift anyway.
My 2c, but making the distance between the chassis and body bigger will increase movement between the two (so it wont "stiffen" the body), it will also speed up the floorpan cracking process as there is more leverage placed on the actual mounting points. Personally, i don't like body lifts, and yes, i have had cars with BL's before.

Really, i though someone would have asked about body lifts on here before. Why hasn't anybody asked this previously?

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:25 pm
by PeowPeow
I got 5 inch, with everything mentioned to correct it drives fine as it's not a race car, no sway bars, flexy coils, mega flex radius arms, still chopped the fronts and rear quarters.

Not a fan of body lifts, had a shorty 2+2 went fine but shorties are way different to lwb cars so can't compair them really

I was thinking 4 +2 but happy with 5 and if it sags then think of bl but sliders I don't think it's worth it

depends what you want really... Isn't it every 2 inches you got up you need to go out 1? But running cruiser offset so there is a little wider there

reading this thred I think it hasn't answered anything lol

good luck

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:27 pm
by BGH
now 7 inch lift with 35's

was 9 inch but i took the body lift out




BGH

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:55 pm
by coxy321
BGH wrote:now 7 inch lift with 35's

was 9 inch but i took the body lift out



BGH
Quoted for reference.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:20 pm
by young pup
4"dobinson springs 6" shocks, super flex dropped radius arms, superior adj panhards, extended brake lines, drop out cones and spring retainers, no sway bars, 35" tyres. works really well for me...

soon to have superior long arm kit and extra extra long shocks,

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:56 am
by BGH
coxy321 wrote:
BGH wrote:now 7 inch lift with 35's

was 9 inch but i took the body lift out



BGH
Quoted for reference.

why ???????



BGH

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:26 am
by anzac
why has no-one mentioned a brake proportioning valve bracket?

If you don't move that you won't have rear brakes. Patrols are under braked as it is in my opinion. It's a $20 part that takes half hour to fit if you're a retard.

That aside, I run 2" lift with 30mm packers. It's all Old Man Emu springs and shocks, I've used land rover front shocks because they are slightly longer than patrol ones, then I've put in HD superior lower control arms in the rear but used GU ones so they are a touch longer.

Up front I've put radius arm spacers, used pedders rubber castor bushes and I've installed superior track rod and draglink. Used front and rear panhard rods too. Don't need half that stuff for the lift, all the rods are because the factory stuff was bent. I've kept factory sway bars, just extended my swaybar links.

My truck flexes great but if I wanted to run 35"s I'd have to chop or body lift. More importantly, it handles really well. Corners better than my XR8 ute (not saying much I guess).

The future for my suspension holds 3" coils, sway bar disconnects, super flex radius arms, shock hoops and long travel shocks. I want to get as much flex as possible without going any higher than I need to. Guards are going to be replaced by fibreglass, wider and chopped replacements to fit larger tyres and the rear is either going to be gone all together or have to be cut out a fair bit.