1HDFTE Conversion in V8 100 Series Lexus LX470

[CustomTurbos]

Thanks for the help Jonathon,

Today I had a MAJOR win.

I found and bought from Toyota the latest CD with complete wiring for all models TO THE END for all engine types. $97.85 delivered TODAY

I took the opportunity to buy the genuine toyota synthetic trans oil and the red coolant - there isnt any better. And a genuine oil filter - just in xcase since the FTE oil filter is a twin screen style.

Hiopefully the wiring in a 2000GXV spec V8 is the same exactly as an LX470 - i suspect it is!

If I sound excited, I AM!

[drr]

I found and bought from Toyota the latest CD with complete wiring for all models TO THE END for all engine types. $97.85 delivered TODAY

Should have just went down to your local toyota dealer with a six pack and got one of the mechanics to burn you a copy. I had all the Toyota CD's for pre 2006 models on my computer until the hard drive shat itself.

[CustomTurbos]

Fair enough if you can organise it; but the time I would spend doing that, chatting etc; I would be far better off spending at work!

Plus I own the disk - legally.

I made an iso last night so that the disk doesnt need to be in the computer plus the read access is much faster straight off the drive.

Now starts the process of going through and joining the dots - or at least working out the dots for now.

[CustomTurbos]

VNT 1HDFTE - The CD i got shows that the VNT was ONLY used on Euro Spec 1HDFTE from 08/2001 onwards and the power and torque figures were listed as identical. JDM versions were the same as ours.

Turns out the VNT turbo I bought off ebay was the same spec as the Euro 1HDFTE. Only difference is that mine has servo controlled vanes vs vacuum/boost actuator. I would be happier if it hd the older style.

Too small for me anyway ;-)

[bj on roids]

For pics, go to http://www.photobucket.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CustomTurbos]

OK, will try photobucket.

I put coolant in last night and over the weekend installed the full exhaust system. I also bought a pump to get the transmission oil in.... much more difficult than conventional tranny since there isnt a dip stick. I also bought the new fuel lines and a heap of shrink wrap tubing for the wiring.

Other than tranny oil, power steering oil, the wiring and making a larger cutout in the floor pan for the 5spd gear selctor system, it is all systems go.

I have gone through the CD and yes, it is easy to do the wiring since the GXV wiring for the engine/trans is the same bar a few wires.

My biggest concern is the integration of the entirely different security system. But in the end, so long as the protocols are the same it should work out fine and hopefully the security system is really only required for the engine.

The fuel lines were too hard to remove from the wreck so I bought 12mm and 8mm 400 psi flexible fuel line that I hope to install tonight along with starting the wiring.

Having the car totally stock is a real plus. I hope to drive it around for a week and will then get a base line dyno. From there the exciting times start.

I also discovered that the 2006 and possibly earlier HDJ100R with the 5spd auto had 4.1:1 diff ratios while the 4spd auto HDJ100R hd 3.9:1 diff ratios. Since the LX470 has 4.1:1 diff ratios, I am in no hurry to change them (I thought I needed to change to 3.9). I will wait and see if there is a case to reduce the ratios after I play with the power. It may be that if I do install the GT37V, the 4.1 might be the better option. I have both 3.9 and 4.1 diffs with factory diff locks. Currently the conversion vehicle has an LSD in the rear, so I will be changing it at some point (and also going part time 4wd)

[KiwiBacon]

Why part time 4x4? 700Nm with part time will be a bastard to drive in the wet or on gravel.

[thrashlux]

Why part time 4x4? 700Nm with part time will be a bastard to drive in the wet or on gravel.

X2
you will not get any better fuel economy from it with an fte as it does not even feel the difference because of the buckets of torque

[CustomTurbos]

Well, I agree to some of that. While the FTE "wont even feel it", that doesnt mean the parasitic and drive to ground losses arent there; so yes there will be a fuel benefit. The other issue is tyre wear in the 100's 4WD system. Front tyres scrub out quickly.

Part time 4wd effected soley by operating the centre diff lock and putting in free wheeling hubs. That way I can have part or full time 4wd on bitumen if I wish. yes the front diff is still turning etc but my theory is that 80% of the losses are probably related to where the power hits the road. On that basis I will take the convenience of full time 4wd availability on the road.

The dilemma in my mind is wanting a locker in the rear. In many ways I would prefer a tight pack LSD and a locker in the front. Having 2wd and open center in rear with 700nm would be a drama especially gassing it out of corners....

Problem is, I have the diff locks available and a switch ;-)

[thrashlux]

Well, I agree to some of that. While the FTE "wont even feel it", that doesnt mean the parasitic and drive to ground losses arent there; so yes there will be a fuel benefit.

trust me i have actually done this
unfortunately you will not have any fuel economy difference if that is your main reason you are doing this you r wasting your time
the fact you are turning the diff still negates this effort even more
you are still pushing the wheels around and everything is stll turning axles driveshats etc etc
now you are turning the front wheels axles etc etc but doing by applying more effort thru your back tyres to the ground than if you were doing it thru the axles and driveshafts that are already fitted
700nm torque on 2 tyres means they will wear a hell of a lot faster than if you spread it around a little

will interesting to see your different fuel figures for 2wd 4wd

[ferrit]

Not to mention that if you fit Free wheeling hubs to the 100 series with ABS it causes the ABS to crap out and stop working- the front sensor rings are on the CV's, not the hub rotating assembly.

[hdj105]

Not to mention that if you fit Free wheeling hubs to the 100 series with ABS it causes the ABS to crap out and stop working- the front sensor rings are on the CV's, not the hub rotating assembly.

Only applicable to RFS (live axle) models, IFS are fine as the sensor is on the wheel hub.

[hdj105]

I also discovered that the 2006 and possibly earlier HDJ100R with the 5spd auto had 4.1:1 diff ratios while the 4spd auto HDJ100R hd 3.9:1 diff ratios. Since the LX470 has 4.1:1 diff ratios, I am in no hurry to change them (I thought I needed to change to 3.9).

All Aussie HDJ100's with the 5 speed auto were 3.9:1, 4 speed autos and manuals are 4.1:1.

[CustomTurbos]

Apologies for the misinformation, I stand corrected - just took a look at the Toyota CD again and yes the A750 vehicles had the 3.9:1 ratio....

Does the 8" centre from a live axel front fit into the IFS?

If so, I might try and source the 3.7:1 from the newer V8 Troopy...

[hulsty]

From what I have found they are 3.909. Are all the new VD7X series the same ratio? The older HDJ7X were 4.1 I think. Newer ones must rev lower if the gearbox ratios have not changed for the v8 compared to the 6

[hdj105]

Apologies for the misinformation, I stand corrected - just took a look at the Toyota CD again and yes the A750 vehicles had the 3.9:1 ratio....

Does the 8" centre from a live axel front fit into the IFS?

If so, I might try and source the 3.7:1 from the newer V8 Troopy...

Yes, although the Toyota part numbers are different they will interchange, sometimes you may need to change the drive flange.

As far as I'm aware, all the VDJ7* V8's run 3.9:1 too.

[CustomTurbos]

Well, all up and running. I have been driving it around for a couple of weeks and working through some teething issues. The first was that the gearbox wouldnt shift manually - the main plug for the solenoids on the box wasnt pulled down....

Then I found the box fluid level was way low even though I filled it up to the correct level. Only found out later that to check the true level for the auto, you need to have it running in park....

Anyway, done that now.

ABS wasnt working; now is.

Current problem is that it wont shift into 5th or lockup in 4th. All seems in order; shifts very well.

I am wondering if the ecu is in limp mode and in limp mode, that is the result. I guess I need to check the ecu for faults - not sure how to do that.

Other than that; zero smoke from the moment you hit the accelerator to when it shifts at 3800rpm. Moves along very well indeed! Oil still crystal clear after 500kms. I realise this isnt much but my 1HDT and 12HT dirtied the oil far more quickly than that.

Any help appreciated

[thrashlux]

Well, all up and running. I have been driving it around for a couple of weeks and working through some teething issues. The first was that the gearbox wouldnt shift manually - the main plug for the solenoids on the box wasnt pulled down....

Then I found the box fluid level was way low even though I filled it up to the correct level. Only found out later that to check the true level for the auto, you need to have it running in park....

Anyway, done that now.

ABS wasnt working; now is.

Current problem is that it wont shift into 5th or lockup in 4th. All seems in order; shifts very well.

I am wondering if the ecu is in limp mode and in limp mode, that is the result. I guess I need to check the ecu for faults - not sure how to do that.

Other than that; zero smoke from the moment you hit the accelerator to when it shifts at 3800rpm. Moves along very well indeed! Oil still crystal clear after 500kms. I realise this isnt much but my 1HDT and 12HT dirtied the oil far more quickly than that.

Any help appreciated

need more details as now you have non standard wiring
how have you patched the computer in??
have you connected the 100 series computer to the lx multiplexer system(body computer, and aircon panel etc etc)

[CustomTurbos]

OK, problem solved.

A few days ago I wasnt happy to have power reduce when going around a tight corner, so I disabled both traction control and vehicle stability control from the ecu. I was hoping this might solve the auto changing issue too - it didnt. I havent used the multiplex since the functionality of it is far greater in the later models than the early (the only thing I appear to be missing is a cruise control light on the dash when in cruise mode, all else fine).

I then fiddled with the plug on the box that fires the gear change and lockup solenoids. This got me changing gears automatically whcih it disnt do before, but no 5th or lockup.

I had a long think about it, considered a few persons thoughts but decided that the ecu might need to be reset in it's "new" configuration (ie: gerabox plug in, vsc and trc off). Well, I was right!

Last night I rest the ecu and low and behold it all works perfectly. I have done 120kms now, half towing a 3.5T Bushtracker caravan and its fine!!!

Also picked up some HP, seems the ecu was limiting it a bit.

For the 60km's I did with the van last night, I was eager to check fuel economy. I averaged 7.1km/L for the 60kms travelling at 90-95 and quite a few stop starts. Will need a reall run to get accurate figures but all indications are that it uses just under half what the V8 petrol used in the same circumstances.

[KiwiBacon]

Good to hear.

Now it's rebuilt to toyota's standards, when does the tuning begin?

[CustomTurbos]

Ah, yes, I have a chip lined up on "trial"

Still to fit boost gauges and egts gauge.... Will come. But, I do plan to juice it up a bit around the 1400-2000rpm range for towing :-)

This thing fairly hammers as it is and NO SMOKE AT ANY TIME. Must be some room for power methinks.

I am rebuilding a "special" interim (ie: before the vnt) turbo for it first and will install a hopefully very good water to air intercooler. Then get on to the exhaust.....

One thing at a tim.

LOL, happy with just how good thee are stock lasted 2 days..........

[KiwiBacon]

I'm interested in stock boost and EGT numbers too. I've long been impressed by the FTE in my fathers 100 series, but he's got the 4 speed slushbox.

[CustomTurbos]

Hi, well long time between posts but....

Still no pyro, but have had a base dyno with a minor boost mod to maximize before fuel cutoff.

Dyno results for 1HD-FTE Auto 5spd, done in 4wd in 4th.

132kw @ wheels, 17psi, very little smoke - very light grey; not at all noticable on the road from a standing start standing right behind the car on a bright day!

Also with factored losses on the dyno, 165kw and 503nm @ flywheel.

I was so certain it was better than average - they usually do ~ 110wkw, not sure whats so special about mine.

I certainly is impressive to drive anyway.

New turbo has been balanced , I just need to assemble. However, I will do the intercooler and exhaust and fit gauges and totally max out the stocker before I change something as radical as that.

Also plan on fitting a Q45 MAF so that I can check if increasing boost after a certain point does in fact increase mass flow....

[CustomTurbos]

Photos here

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24- ... ost6336523" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;