1HDFTE Conversion in V8 100 Series Lexus LX470

[CustomTurbos]

OK, so first of all, I am previously known as Big12HT because that was the engine I was initially going to use. Dieslex covers all options of fitting a diesel to my Lexus LX470 (aka IFS 100 series V8 2000 model 4spd auto).

The donor - a half cut - which took 8 months to get after order (dont ask) arrived last night. It is a 2006 5spd Auto. Since it was a povo pack (GXL lol) half cut, I got a 2006 instrument cluster from a full spec diesel Sahara with the AHC suspension....

I had hoped that being late model Jap it has a VNT turbo. It doesnt. I have no way of verifying what year my half cut is. They said 05 or 06. Who knows. But at 43,000km, I am happy.

As for plans for this vehicle, it should be noted that it is a tow truck. That is, to tow the http://www.offroadcaravanhire.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Bushtracker around. I want alot of torque and alot of power with very little smoke and excellent economy. The plan it to persevere with the VNT controller that I built a while back and fit it to a GT3782VA turbo from a 2003/04 6.0 Powerstroke. It might need some mods to get to work best (like decrease trim on both ends), but we will see.

In any case, I will max out the stock setup first with excellent intercooler and high flow exhaust. Next will be a high flow turbo (I do this myself) based on my own specs (not over the top - enough to do the job and no more) and once that is as far as I can go with a CT20B or high flow CT26 the VNT will be fitted.

The goal is over 700nm from 1900rpm to 3800rpm. Or as flat as I can get it - happy for a 10% taper down from say 2000-4000. This would mean increasing the fuel with rpm as the BSFC reduces.

I will be measuring:

Exhaust manifold backpressure (EMP)
Inlet Manifold Pressure (IMP)
Exhaust manifold Gas Temp (EGT)
Air Fuel Ratio (AFR)
Inlet Air Temp (IAT)
Opacity (this is the only one I dont have yet, it will be a long way off if it happens since I need to design, build, test)


OK, so, we need to look to now, not then.

So far, I have:

* removed the V8 and 4 spd auto (mint condition both of them advertised yesterday for 1st time) and all the fuel tanks and front/rear tail shafts, front exhaust etc
* removed the wiring harness and computer
* removed both fuel tanks (I also have a donor HDJ100R roll over - I will be selling another 1HDFTE complete with engine, computer and gearbox in a few months after I take what I need off the car)
* Installed the diesel main tank
* started removing dash related stuff (not easy to pull out the dash eh?)

Next to do

* remove the engine and gearbox from the half cut
* cut engine mounts (on the chasis rails) from both the LX470 and the donor half cut.
* weld the 1HDFTE mounts on to the chasis rails of the LX470 (or should that be LX420TD....)
* measure the distance between the gearbox cross member to the engine mounts and pray that they are the same for both models (I doubt it....) and make mods as necessary...
* change front 4.3 diff to diesel 4.1 diff (with ARB air locker installed)
* change over steering rack (if not damaged in half cut)
* bolt in the engine and bolt in the box
* Roll LX420TD out on the front lawn
* strip half cut of anything useful and take it away (cant wait for that!!)
* remove fuel lines from the donor rolled HDJ100R (will require pulling the interior from the car (GXV spec - real nice interior, also for sale some day). Fuel lines are 12/8mm for supply and return where petrol are 8/7mm for supply and return!. But, the clips all fasten from INSIDE the car, so I have to pull the carpet up on one side at least in both cars. I need to do it anyway - could do with a good clean!
* Install new fuel lines and carpet
* Buy long range rear tank and do a few mods to it....
* Change over fuel filler point to diesel. I did remove the restricor plate inside the V8 filler and this makes a huge difference, but I still dont think the high flow diesel bowser nozzels will go in, so I will (sigh) change that as well.
* install rear tanjk
* Buy and install a swing out rear spare carrier (factory type)
* Start on the electrics. This is a bit scary actually..... Still, I will see how I go one step at a time. I figure the electrics shouldnt be that hard. At the moment my issue is how to remove the darn dash - any pointers.... I have the center out (radio/climate control etc), the cluster out etc but man......
* Start her up
* do a dogy exhaust section between the V8 rear muffler and the rear of the cat.
* Should be good to go to the pits - better apply for that permit eh?

[KiwiBacon]

Subscribing.

[oldmate]

Personally, I would have put a blower on the v8

[smaddock]

The problem with the blower on the v8's is they chew through the fuel when towing, got a mate with one and its veeerrryyy thirsty when towing.

[GO79]

obviously there is a good reason why you didnt sell the lex and buy a hdj100, but im wondering whats beter about the lex than the toyota 100, or is it just for something different?

[oldmate]

obviously there is a good reason why you didnt sell the lex and buy a hdj100, but im wondering whats beter about the lex than the toyota 100, or is it just for something different?

I was wondering that too.

Will this make it an LX420?

[CustomTurbos]

Yep, it will be an LX420TD. I might even try and make a custom badge for it from the stock 4.2TD Badge... LOL

Look, the LX470 does have a few more features than the optioned out Sahara, but thats all the difference. They are an IFS 100 series V8 with a different headlight setup.

Great engine, but the V8 is lousy for towing economy. 3.25Km/L (3 Tonne van). This makes for msierable range. Changing to TD and adding a long range tank should almost quadruple the range and that suits me to a tee!

The other thing is torque. If you havent driven a tuned up 6cyl Di diesel (that means 12ht/1hdt/1hdft/1hdfte) then you probably wont appreciate what I mean when I say low end torque. With the stock turbo the 1HDFTE can turn at 600nm chipped from ~ 1800RPM. Over 500 from 1400rpm. This makes for effortless grunt. A gasser feels a bit strained under boost at full torque, the diesel just eats it up and feels smoother the more you get out of it. Since I would like to cruise at ~ 1800rpm, I want full torque at that rpm to be able to hold top gear most of the time. The diesel can do this, the petrol cannot (ok, turboed you could get it, but buy shares in BP and turboed for that low rpm will give you a diesel like powerband anyway).

So, in summary; I like all the options of the LX, I like diesel performance (when considerabley modded over stock), I like the fuel economy, I like being able to use alternative fuels (I didnt mention that one), I like the fact that I will know alot about how the vehicle goes together and communicates with different sections of the car (for troubles when in the bush - particularly electronic) and I like that it might work out cheaper.

[CustomTurbos]

*Update*

Well, engine and gearbox is in.

I used the factory mounts from the half cut. I cut them off the chassis, weld preped and welded them on the chassis of the Lex.

Had all sorts of dramas trying to stupidly get engine and box and transfer case in the engine bay as one unit. Dumb idea, dont try it because it doesnt work and takes up alot of time!

The gearbox crossmember mounts need to be moved towrds the rear of the vehicle. Two of 4 bolts from each side line up (what were the rear bolts are now the front). I will sort that out later since for now it serves its purpose of holding the box in position while I do a million other things required.

I am in the process of fitting the power steering cooler from the FTE and removing the V8 one - all the plumbing is opposite since the PS pump is on the opposite side. Also same for air conditioning hoses and that includes the connection to the firewall side and the connection to the heat exchanger....fortunately I have all the parts needed. I do not know how to remove the plastic clips on the firewall mounted aluminium pipes. I really need to post a pic of what I mean.... They act the same way as a v band clamp but bulkier and in black plastic - looks like a special tool is required.

Intercooler plumbing getting set up. I dont like the factory stuff much.......they certainly didnt optimise for outright performance.

The EGR may be removed (for testing....). It lets an UNBELIEVEABLE amount of sludge into the engine. Must reduce the life expectancy something chronic. Glad this is low kms......

Fuel filter installed

Computer that sits on LH fender installed - not wired in though

Gearbox loom all plugged in

Had to clearance the sub frame cross bar that sits right behind the transfer case. Took about 6mm off so that the transfer case wouldnt hit it. Either I set the motor back too far or from factory there is a slight difference.... either way wasnt a big issue and all fixed.

Front drive shaft (tailshaft) installed. V8 tailshaft is too long, so will need to be shortened. I have a FTE one but it has a small ding in it - maybe sufficient for getting going so might install just for testing.

I removed the turbo to check for any damage and cleanliness and chucked the turbine housing in my lathe, machnied the turbine outlet area so I can fit a best possible flowing downpipe. We are talking awesome here. Will it make any difference.... well it cant hurt. basically allows 2.5" tube to fit right up behind the turbine wheel. The wastegate will exit via a 1.5" tube outlet separately. Since the turbines are so small anyway, they spool up awesome. So, maybe it want matter but I just couldnt help myself and had to mod something.

I cant think of anything else that I have done. Really doesnt seem like much considering I still have to bolt up quite a few items. Then on to the wiring.

I have decided to leave the LX loom in place and patch in the FTE loom where necessary. It is a hard decsision but I dont want to chance issues with all the electronic gizmos the LX has. Honestly, even the rear side windows are electric!. Someone who works on these all the time would probably change the whole loom over, but the other issue is the car is 2000 and the donor is 2006 - Toyota may have changed even small things like plug styles in some areas for all I know. patching the FTE engine/box loom in means at least I know what has been connected. Hmm, there is the issue with the Dash though - now it is a 5 speed...... and I have of course the 5 speed dash. Hmmmm I will think more about it.......

Well thats all I can think of. I will load some photos when I get a chance

[CustomTurbos]

More updates

Last night, didnt have much time especially since a mate who bought the original 12HT engine I built came over with his turbo and I did a nice little mod to the exhaust housing to enable a great flowing dump pipe to be fitted (removes turbulence around wastegate area by running wastegate as a divorced pipe outlet).

Still, I decided my aircon condensor was a bit corroded so opted to fit the low km newer one from the half cut (after straightening it a bit....). The newer one was really dirty, so I gave it a high pressure clean and all is good. I did the same with the FTE half cut power steering cooler (*EDIT *- Tranny cooler), straightened the odd fin etc and fitted it up.

Radiators are the same in both the V8 and diesel. Go figure, finally something is the same.....

Thats it. Not much but at least I am now in a position to finalise all the plumbing at the front and fit the radiator - exciting stuff.

[GO79]

Sounding good sofar mate
seem to be plenty of good info your posting very interesting

[CustomTurbos]

Update

pressure cleaned my radiator (dirty as...) and installed. Then discovered that the fan which I removed earlier wont fit. So, need to remove the radiator and install with fan just sitting in place and the shroud installed, all as one item. Fortunately it is 4 bolts :-)

So under an hour spent last night. I hope to do a late one tonight and fit the radiators (and fan) and complete ALL the plumbing up front (tranny cooler hoses, power steering hoses, coolant hoses) and fit the turbo dump/cat pipe and intercooler and plumbing - all stock for now

I still need to fid out how to remove these darn aircon clamps....

[bj on roids]

For the amount you pay for a half cut, you could buy a lot of petrol no?

[KiwiBacon]

For the amount you pay for a half cut, you could buy a lot of petrol no?

That thought isn't a big consolation when you can see the fuel gauge dropping on hills. I think Graeme has a similar mindset to me. I don't mind capital cost, but I absolutely hate running costs. Capital cost doesn't really matter because it's paid for and it's mine, but I hate paying other people more than necessary so I can use my toys.

[thrashlux]

For the amount you pay for a half cut, you could buy a lot of petrol no?

That thought isn't a big consolation when you can see the fuel gauge dropping on hills. I think Graeme has a similar mindset to me. I don't mind capital cost, but I absolutely hate running costs. Capital cost doesn't really matter because it's paid for and it's mine, but I hate paying other people more than necessary so I can use my toys.

X2 plus range you double your range with the diesel
so you say put long range tanks then u carry more weight
plus go big tanks with the diesel and u just doubled that range

as a matter of interest do the jap cars have the same imobaliser system as the aus cars???

[CustomTurbos]

Well, a few things:
* money spent as capital can be recovered in sale - I dont plan on selling it, but that is inevitable one day.
* I bought a high km mint condition LX470 for low $ with view to doing conversion. I think it will come in under $30K and have 43kkm running gear - try to find a HDJ100R Sahara 5 speed auto (actually, all Sahara HDJ100R are 5 speed) for under 45k
* I like the idea of near on 4 x the range by adding the big tank and changing to DI diesel
* Already I have learned a great deal about the mechanical aspects of the 100 series. If it breaks in the bush, I know how stuff bolts/connects together, what needs to come off first before something else, how hard some things are to access etc, the list goes on
* I aim for a minimum 600nm torque and with stock turbo and aftermarket exhaust and intercooler that is available from near 1400rpm. I have been told by a Diesel Injection Co. that I requested to look it up for me, that the stock pump is set for 105cc @ 2200rpm @ engine (never goes more than 75 as controlled by the computer, stock). Also said they are confident the pump ROM can be flashed to over 130cc, so alot of Torque may be possible. Try that in a gasser and more to the point, the fuel economy generally decreases with a gasser when its tuned for power, the diesel might actually go the other way and get slightly better.
* I spent alot of time building a vnt controler, I plan to use the GT3782VA from a 6.0 powerstroke to burn the 130+cc available down the track....

Regarding immobiliser - same system. BUT, I found a guy that can reprogram the computer to accept a new key! Yep - tricks the computer into thinking it is brand new and never had a key, so checks the code of the key and says "yours for life" and all OK. He does all Euro cars too (Mercs and BMW etc). The other day I stuffed the system in my Wifes LX470. Wouldnt start. In the end took it to this guy and he reset the computer to accept the key (as if for the first time) and all good. Cost me $275 for the privaledge though. But - good news to ALL wanting to use a 100 series donor in an 80 series for example and not getting the key etc. A new key with the chip costs ~ $80, so doesnt break the bank either.

*UPDATE*

Cleaned out intercooler, ready to fit.

I drilled 32mm holes in side of subframe to enable fitting tranny crossmember nuts. Nuts need to be welded and small bracket needed which will also cover/reinforce the 32mm hole.

Not much really, but hey.....

Hope to have the crossmember firmly and finally in place and intercooler fitted over the weekend. My birthday this weekend so family stuff on.

Cheers

[KiwiBacon]

All very interesting.
The 75cc I'm guessing is quite a way from peak efficiency as I get 255 g/kwh to produce 430Nm from that.

Is your one the same M-OBD or whatever it's called that all the pre OBD2 versions use? There's an 01 VX in my family and I'd be very interested to find out how to talk to it's computer.

[CustomTurbos]

EDIT - I previously said in earlier post that I fit the power steering cooler.

I was wrong, it was the tranny cooler. First the tranny sends oil to the radiator, the radiator outlet goes to the tranny cooler. I realised this the other day when plumbing it all up - not to mention the fact that it is non sensical to think that the power steering system/pump wastes THAT much energy.

[CustomTurbos]

Hi, my Bad, I should have given more detail.

62cc required at peak torque (430nm) at/below ~ 1800rpm, but 73cc (I rounded to 75cc) required for 430cm @ 3400rpm/151kw

Hence what I meant was that ~ 75cc is the max called for std (Computer ramps it up to try and maintain a flat torque curve). That is why these things have the flatest torque curve around - 430nm from 1400-3400rpm!!!

[KiwiBacon]

Hi, my Bad, I should have given more detail.

62cc required at peak torque (430nm) at/below ~ 1800rpm, but 73cc (I rounded to 75cc) required for 430cm @ 3400rpm/151kw

Hence what I meant was that ~ 75cc is the max called for std (Computer ramps it up to try and maintain a flat torque curve). That is why these things have the flatest torque curve around - 430nm from 1400-3400rpm!!!

That's better, 210g/kwh which is what I was expecting. Very conservative tune, doesn't even really need the intercooler. Which makes sense looking at the size of the stock intercooler.
I've got a pdf here documenting the changes from the 1HD-T to FTE, but I suspect you'll already have a copy.

[CustomTurbos]

[quote="KiwiBacon" That's better, 210g/kwh which is what I was expecting. Very conservative tune, doesn't even really need the intercooler. Which makes sense looking at the size of the stock intercooler.
I've got a pdf here documenting the changes from the 1HD-T to FTE, but I suspect you'll already have a copy.[/quote]

Actually Dougal, I don't but would be forever grateful for you to email me a copy :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

[thrashlux]

Regarding immobiliser - same system. BUT, I found a guy that can reprogram the computer to accept a new key! Yep - tricks the computer into thinking it is brand new and never had a key, so checks the code of the key and says "yours for life" and all OK. He does all Euro cars too (Mercs and BMW etc). The other day I stuffed the system in my Wifes LX470. Wouldnt start. In the end took it to this guy and he reset the computer to accept the key (as if for the first time) and all good. Cost me $275 for the privaledge though. But - good news to ALL wanting to use a 100 series donor in an 80 series for example and not getting the key etc. A new key with the chip costs ~ $80, so doesnt break the bank either.

can be a toss up against just buying a new imobaliser computer at around 300 bucks it will also accept any new key offered to it
its a bit of a pain
to reprogram you must have the body computer connected and this is not the case when it is in an 80 or such
thanks for the info

[CustomTurbos]

Regarding immobiliser - same system. BUT, I found a guy that can reprogram the computer to accept a new key! Yep - tricks the computer into thinking it is brand new and never had a key, so checks the code of the key and says "yours for life" and all OK. He does all Euro cars too (Mercs and BMW etc). The other day I stuffed the system in my Wifes LX470. Wouldnt start. In the end took it to this guy and he reset the computer to accept the key (as if for the first time) and all good. Cost me $275 for the privaledge though. But - good news to ALL wanting to use a 100 series donor in an 80 series for example and not getting the key etc. A new key with the chip costs ~ $80, so doesnt break the bank either.

can be a toss up against just buying a new imobaliser computer at around 300 bucks it will also accept any new key offered to it
its a bit of a pain
to reprogram you must have the body computer connected and this is not the case when it is in an 80 or such
thanks for the info

OK, well the V8 is different to the 1HDFTE in that regard - I havent got into the 1HDFTE bit yet and it did seem like there was another black box that said something that aluded to security.... I will report when I get into the electrics

[bj on roids]

Regarding immobiliser - same system. BUT, I found a guy that can reprogram the computer to accept a new key! Yep - tricks the computer into thinking it is brand new and never had a key, so checks the code of the key and says "yours for life" and all OK. He does all Euro cars too (Mercs and BMW etc). The other day I stuffed the system in my Wifes LX470. Wouldnt start. In the end took it to this guy and he reset the computer to accept the key (as if for the first time) and all good. Cost me $275 for the privaledge though. But - good news to ALL wanting to use a 100 series donor in an 80 series for example and not getting the key etc. A new key with the chip costs ~ $80, so doesnt break the bank either.

can be a toss up against just buying a new imobaliser computer at around 300 bucks it will also accept any new key offered to it
its a bit of a pain
to reprogram you must have the body computer connected and this is not the case when it is in an 80 or such
thanks for the info

OK, well the V8 is different to the 1HDFTE in that regard - I havent got into the 1HDFTE bit yet and it did seem like there was another black box that said something that aluded to security.... I will report when I get into the electrics

Take some pictures!!!

[CustomTurbos]

I took some photos - how to load them I have no idea????

Anyone know where I can get an EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagram) for a late 2005 onwards HDJ100R Auto???

I also need one for a 2000 RHD LX470. I have a LHD and the wiring is sufficiently different to be painfull.....

All done now except the wiring!

[thrashlux]

I took some photos - how to load them I have no idea????

Anyone know where I can get an EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagram) for a late 2005 onwards HDJ100R Auto???

I also need one for a 2000 RHD LX470. I have a LHD and the wiring is sufficiently different to be painfull.....

All done now except the wiring!

yep its the variable bit
i am doing a couple of fte's at moment
toyota were not helpfull on the diagrams
there was a big change in 2003 for the fte its when it got the 5 speed auto and the ect got intergrated into the ecu the only information is in a supplement book i could not find the pin outs your bigest drama will be the imobaliser
i just follow every wire that way i am safe

cheers

[CustomTurbos]

I guess I should clarify, I have the service manual (EWD) for a LHD98 Lexus. It is close to mine, but not close enough.

Yeah the ECT in the ECU is a good thing (at least to me), because it eliminates alot of wiring errors. I just need to know where the "other" wires need to go and it will be happy days....

As for the security bit, I have separated the wires from the security ecu that go either side of the car (to the wiring boxes in each side kick panel) and have left the wires connected to the plug that goes into the ecu. So at least part of it is OK.

The LX470 had the auto control and the security in the same ecu. As a result, all the in's and our's should be at the old ecu area - just need to determine which ones go where. Probably could put the security ecu near where the engine/trans ecu sits and have all the right wires there to connect up.

I guess the FTE version is the only one to have an external security ecu??

Thanks for the comments

[CustomTurbos]

[img][/\\PERFP01\Users$\graeme.bentink\My Documents\My Pictures\LX470 Photos\IMG_0140.jpg]

[CustomTurbos]

Can anyone advise how to upload a picture? I click on Img and it brings up what looks like a file location. Doesnt seem to wor4k like that though.

Thanks

[KiwiBacon]

I don't think this forum has space to upload photos to, so you need to host them on another site and link them across.
Does your ISP give you some free webspace you can upload to? If so throw them on there and link to them in the same way you've just tried (image button and paste the link in).

[thrashlux]

I guess I should clarify, I have the service manual (EWD) for a LHD98 Lexus. It is close to mine, but not close enough.

Yeah the ECT in the ECU is a good thing (at least to me), because it eliminates alot of wiring errors. I just need to know where the "other" wires need to go and it will be happy days....

As for the security bit, I have separated the wires from the security ecu that go either side of the car (to the wiring boxes in each side kick panel) and have left the wires connected to the plug that goes into the ecu. So at least part of it is OK.

The LX470 had the auto control and the security in the same ecu. As a result, all the in's and our's should be at the old ecu area - just need to determine which ones go where. Probably could put the security ecu near where the engine/trans ecu sits and have all the right wires there to connect up.

I guess the FTE version is the only one to have an external security ecu??

Thanks for the comments

the way i would do it is basically build a stand alone loom to run the engine and gearbox ie intake heater ,edu etc etc
like this one i made for an fte into and 80 series

then hook up all your minor things ie cruise control and dash lights, guages etc etc you should be able to track all these down at the old ecu connector pretty easy with meter
you may have problems with the multiplex system ie not get the glow light or cruise light, maybe even your ECT lights to work either as you are running the petrol multiplex system
i would not connect the ecu to multiplex system as it may introduce faults
shame you r not closer

cheers

jonathan