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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:26 pm
by BOGAN V8
Smack really hard on the end with a big hammer decent hits and lots of WD-40 until it comes off..... shouldnt need a 2nd hammer..

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:37 pm
by De-lux
ok, i will hit there really hard.

but dont i want to keep that part? what if i damage it? or am i supposed to be replacing it? :?


yes i am aware that im a rookie and don't know shit :finger:

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:49 pm
by MY45
Buy the farking tool.....then next time u do it it'll be easy as well :idea:

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:51 pm
by RaginRover
De-lux wrote:ok, i will hit there really hard.

but dont i want to keep that part? what if i damage it? or am i supposed to be replacing it? :?


yes i am aware that im a rookie and don't know shit :finger:


The seperator tool is less than $20 IIRC

Tom

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:57 pm
by De-lux
whats IIRC mean?

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:01 pm
by BOGAN V8
you wont damage the steering arm its all good

just make sure you smack it on the end of the steeringarm like in the pic :) :) :) :) :)


The tool is a waste of time and money to get you wont need it :roll: :roll:

All you need is a hammer

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:05 pm
by ozy1
BOGAN wrote:you wont damage the steering arm its all good

just make sure you smack it on the end of the steeringarm like in the pic :) :) :) :) :)


The tool is a waste of time and money to get you wont need it :roll: :roll:

All you need is a hammer


i too will agree with this, all i have ever used is a BFH, big farkin hammer, and i have never had a problem, there has not been one tierod that hasnt popped out to date, touch wood,

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:11 pm
by BOGAN V8
ozy1 wrote:
BOGAN wrote:you wont damage the steering arm its all good

just make sure you smack it on the end of the steeringarm like in the pic :) :) :) :) :)


The tool is a waste of time and money to get you wont need it :roll: :roll:

All you need is a hammer


i too will agree with this, all i have ever used is a BFH, big farkin hammer, and i have never had a problem, there has not been one tierod that hasnt popped out to date, touch wood,


You know whats going to happen now dont you ozy 1 now you said that

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:14 pm
by De-lux
i'll just give it a good hard tonking with a lump hammer tomorrow arvo. i'mm belt the shit out of it. i'm a bit concerned that these wheel nuts have fused themselves on.... :?

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:22 pm
by BOGAN V8
if your not worried bout the paint on the rims you always try an oxy

on a "LOW HEAT" and just warm them up to expand them a bit it may help Dont cut them off :D :D :D :D
Then try a rattle gun



Also if your going to change the tie rods anyway try a low heat on the ball joints as welll "DONT GET THEM RED HOT" just a small amount of heat may free them up then smack with the hammer

Not too much heat or you mite mess with the casting of the arm "So i have heard" ;) ;) ;) ;)

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:00 pm
by RUFF
De-lux wrote:i'll just give it a good hard tonking with a lump hammer tomorrow arvo. i'mm belt the shit out of it. i'm a bit concerned that these wheel nuts have fused themselves on.... :?


Are you trying to turn the wheelnuts the right way?

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:03 pm
by Mytqik
De-lux wrote:whats IIRC mean?


IIRC ---> If I Recall Correctly

When using the hammer on the tie rods, it will not work if you use one hammer, you must use two. As mentioned before it is not the force, but the timing that is important. You need to hit the steering arm from both sides at exactly the same time. This will ensure that all the force form the hammers are transfered into the steering arm. This force will compress then expand the steering arm, which will lead to the ball joint popping out.

Obviously this is much easier if your wheels are off so you are in a catch 22. You really need to pull the wheels, then do the ball joints.

Another good trick when using the + style wheel brace, is to support the other end on bricks/wood etc then put a long piece of pipe onto the cross portion. This will ensure that the wheel brace doesn't slip/strip your wheel nuts.

In regards to the wheel nuts, when you put them back on, make sure you coat the studs with a copper anti-sieze. This will ensure that they will always come off.

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:05 pm
by "CANADA"
from the look of the pics if it is anything like a quad then you should be hitting the ball joint threads.....so straight down from the top..should not take that hard of a hit either...they way your hitting the steering arm now is just squishing the rod end into the arm....

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:05 pm
by Gribble
RUFF wrote:
De-lux wrote:i'll just give it a good hard tonking with a lump hammer tomorrow arvo. i'mm belt the shit out of it. i'm a bit concerned that these wheel nuts have fused themselves on.... :?


Are you trying to turn the wheelnuts the right way?


Lefty, loosy.
Rightie, tighty.

:D

(dont give me shit about that all depends on which way you look it at, its a joke, so get over it.)

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:41 pm
by Hoonz
RUFF wrote:
De-lux wrote:i'll just give it a good hard tonking with a lump hammer tomorrow arvo. i'mm belt the shit out of it. i'm a bit concerned that these wheel nuts have fused themselves on.... :?


Are you trying to turn the wheelnuts the right way?


HAHAHAHAHAHA :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:56 am
by De-lux
RUFF wrote:
De-lux wrote:i'll just give it a good hard tonking with a lump hammer tomorrow arvo. i'mm belt the shit out of it. i'm a bit concerned that these wheel nuts have fused themselves on.... :?


Are you trying to turn the wheelnuts the right way?



:rofl: yeah i thought about that, but its anticlockwise, ay?

excuse my ignorance, but i'm only a rookie.


and BOGAN i dont have an oxy or any sort of proper equipment... i'm a dodgy backyard retard mechanic

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:09 pm
by HIL01X
mad_landie wrote:from the look of the pics if it is anything like a quad then you should be hitting the ball joint threads.....so straight down from the top..should not take that hard of a hit either...they way your hitting the steering arm now is just squishing the rod end into the arm....

That would be the quickest and easiest way...
To stuff the tie rod end completly, you would never use it again.

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:32 pm
by Nev62
mad_landie wrote:from the look of the pics if it is anything like a quad then you should be hitting the ball joint threads.....so straight down from the top..should not take that hard of a hit either...they way your hitting the steering arm now is just squishing the rod end into the arm....


Noooooooooooooo

One hammer will work a lot of the time but every now and then it needs the second. Try resting the second hammer on the other side and if that don't work, then go for the double hit.

I have brought a couple of the tools but never got them them to work (wrong width with one, second just started to bend itself).

t r

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:50 pm
by blackmav
I do alot of the work on my car at a mechanic mate of mines place and when he sees me getting angry with the ends he just cruises up hits it on the side and out it comes. He does give it a good whollop but also trys to whollop me when I even tap them up(or down.) Sometimes its just a knack i guess.

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:09 pm
by Hoonz
ok heres what seems to work with me .. my 2c worth

got my mate with a crowbar to lever the tie rod in the direction required
with a little bit of pressure
and 1 good smack with a decent size hammer
works for me every time

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:34 pm
by customhilux
dude, just pay someone, it hasn't worked for u yet,

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 10:02 pm
by skootin
Locking at your pics I couldn't see where you had been hitting it.

TAP TAP TAP HIT THE F#*KIN THING AND HIT IT HARD. :bad-words:

Wheel nuts prob are your tyres still touching the ground :?:

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:15 pm
by RUFF
Mick stop hitting it like a fairy :finger:

And yes anti clockwise.

Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 2:20 am
by HEY CHARGER
The hammer trick does work , but if youve never seen any one do it your probably a bit scared to hit it , but you must give it a serious whack for it to work.
Dont heat it with the oxy cause you'll cook your rubber boot and piss grease everywhere , but i get the impression that youve probably never used a oxy anyway , and dont hit the nut you'll only stuff it.
Go and spend 15.00 bucks at super shit and get the tool and youll be done in 10 minutes , before you do yourself an injury !
Learn how to do it the right way then worry about shortcuts later.

Good Luck.

Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:00 am
by STUMPY
hit it hard, like a one nighter :D

Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:30 am
by De-lux
STUMPY wrote:hit it hard, like a one nighter :D



oooh, so now your speaking my language!!

i didnt have a go at it last night because i was drinking beer and went to watch the reds get flogged by the damn crusaders. maybe this arvo.

i will return with updates

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:07 am
by De-lux
:armsup: :D :armsup: its all off now :armsup: :D :armsup:

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:44 am
by Hoonz
yeh so how did u do it?

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 9:04 am
by De-lux
finally got the front wheels off by affixing a big pole to the end of the tyre iorn, then got a big fukkin hammer and belted the shit out of the top of the thread. it popped off after a good solid 5-10 belts.

:armsup:

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 9:27 am
by phippsy
De-lux wrote:a big fukkin hammer and belted the shit out of the top of the thread.

:armsup:


doesn't that fix everything :D