Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hope you give dad a few beers for all that

NICE, very nice work !!!!

Man you won't know yourself when its done.

You wanting the IFS hubs off this?

i have some pics of the grinding so far i have been a little held up with work being to busy at the moment so there hasnt been to much progress

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Awsome are you going to plate the chassie where the steering box bolts on?

there are no plans to plate the steering box i wasnt even going to remove it i will be welding plates in were the upper control arms brackets were just to neatin it up a bit. should be picking up the rest of my parts on thursday so if i have the grinding done this week i should have everything welded next week cant wait

dreama wrote:there are no plans to plate the steering box i wasnt even going to remove it i will be welding plates in were the upper control arms brackets were just to neatin it up a bit. should be picking up the rest of my parts on thursday so if i have the grinding done this week i should have everything welded next week cant wait

move the box forward and plate it - you dont want to risk ripping it off the frame and cracking it

moving the box forward im not under standing the plate is this fitted because there is no steering dampener just to reinforce the steering box or is there more purpose behind this

Moving the box forward is not needed unless you are moving the axle way forward. The steering box section of the frame is not designed for the amount of side forces you are going to get with the solid axle swap and they are very prone to cracking i plated mine both sides with a 6mm plate just to be sure it wont fail.
I have seen failures on chassies without this plating and it makes a mess thatr is twice as hard to fix and could also see you stuck in a realy bad situation if it snapes in the middle of the bush or even worse while driving down the road.

The shorter one is short because it runs on the inside of the frame from the front corner back to the engine mount.
The other one runs from the front edge back to where my Shock hoop is mounted.

well thanks for the input ruff i will definately look into this

thanks for the advice on the steering box ruff today i had a closer inspection the chassis rail allready has two small cracks so today i cut some plates i will post photos some photos tomorow

pictures

finaly this weekend i weld done abit of brain storming about the ass end one of my mates has just finished his conversion and used 50mm lift blocks and 1inch extended shacles to make up the hieght difference in the rear. im not to impressed with how it looks and dont think it will work to well so i will be cutting the old shackle mounts of and weld a 75mm block to the chassis and weld a under chassis shackle mount on so i can run a standard greaseble shackle this way it will be 100% legal. so i will have new photos and more progress reports on monday

Are you converting the rear to leaf as well? Or is this an Extra Cab?

the rear is allready leaf

just ran a sample weld and i have the go ahead for tomorow there were some douts on wether the mig was big enough but its all good now so there will be photos sunday night

dreama wrote:just ran a sample weld and i have the go ahead for tomorow there were some douts on wether the mig was big enough but its all good now so there will be photos sunday night

can't wait

not a very productive day got the rear blocks welded the crossmember welded on u bolt flip kit in the front on steering box plate welded on had hoped for more but as allways ran in to a few problems but will progress more through the week

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Are they IFS rear springs you are fitting to the front?

so your rear shackles mounts for the front are spaced down 3" from the frame as well?

RUFF wrote:Are they IFS rear springs you are fitting to the front?

i wood guess so Tony thet have the bumpstop thingy on the fixed mount end i think the IFS rears r they only springs with this.

BTW Dreama, its looking good

yes they are ifs reaer springs they measure in at about 52 inches
the shackle mount at the rear of the front spring goes hard against the bottom of chassis rail were as a standard hilux the shackle bolts up through the chassis rail the blocks in the photo were made up for the rear springs purely to make up the hieght difference rather than running a extended shackle and lift blocks

this aftternoon i ran into yet another problem the rear shackle mount on the front springs fall in the bend on the chassis rail so half the shackle mount is 30mm off the side of the chassis rail so now i need to make up yet another block to build up the distance on yhe inside of the chassis rail there was a hell of alot of bad words used this afternoon and i now no that nothing is as simple as it looks and i hate four wheel drives

gone

i think the key is to research what needs to be done before jumping in with the angle grinder
why no duals or rear ubolt flip ???

dreama wrote:the time and money factor and plain and simpley just had enough because of this conversion i now no longer want a four wheel drive i have just had enough

dude dont give up so easy half the fun is building your rig up
my POS has been driven off road like 3 times this year and has spent the rest of the time in the garage busted up or half way through mods.

Stick with it once you get it together go for a wheel and it will all be worth it

i did heaps of reaserch into this one its all the small things that are cracking me

dreama wrote:this is now something i would not recomend for someone to have a shot at if you want this conversion pay someone to do it but even then i would be going it over with a fine tooth comb when it was finished this car will still be finished it will be different specs though the dual transfers are now sold and the springs will be approx 49inches and the aframe shock kit is gone

Im guessing you are swapping springs because of the forward half of the IFS spring being so long?

Have you welded the dropped hanger in the stock position or moved it forward some?

In order to run the IFS in the front you must move the front mount forward 4" total and usually down 2" to clear the pitman arm on full compression.

To run Stock non IFS rears in the front you realy need to be forward at least 1" and again down the 2" to clear the pitman arm.

With both of these set-ups you will prob have to run castor wedges under the diff to get the steering right or rotate the knuckles.