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Torque
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:22 pm
by Jimbo
Torque figures from a dyno are easily stuffed by keying in wrong ratios and tyre sizes in the dyno computer.
The dyno measures the force and then divides the wheel radius to get the torque at the axel, then the figure is DIVIDED by the diff ratio, then divided again by the gear box ratio the car was in at the time of the dyno (usually 1:1 if in 4th)
Remember
Horsepower equals torque times rpm divided by 5252.
Horsepower = (Torque X RPM) / 5252
Torque equals horsepower times 5252 divided by rpm.
Torque = (Horsepower X 5252) / RPM
RPM equals horsepower times 5252 divided by torque.
RPM = (Horsepower X 5252) / Torque
Torque in lbs-ft
Thats why a 1 litre motorbike engine can make 200hp....it makes hardly any torque but revs to 16,000rpm
Cheers
Jimbo
Anyway wack a blower on it.....failr cheap and plenty of down low grunt
torque
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:31 pm
by Jimbo
Another thing...one way of telling if some1 has fudged a dyno sheet is that torque and hp should always be the same at 5252rpm. Above this Hp is more and below this torque is more
Jimbo
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:48 pm
by scout392
My scout 392 was 103kw

and 900nm

on the dyno
Eric
That enought to beat skylines, and V6 dunnydoors to 70KMH at the lights.And big cheers durning burnout comps.
Havent raced off road with the new motor YET.
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:46 am
by zuffen
The easiest and cheapset way to get the torque you want is buy a Bullet Cars manifold or one off Jordy's Ski Boat on
www.lextreme.com and fit an eaton M90 running around 5-6lb.
You can use the stock ECU and you'll see a vast improvement in drivebility. It's a simple easy cheap conversion. You should be able to do this well under $1,500.00.
My Kelford cams (from NZ) cost over $2,000.00 and will give less than the blower.
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:34 pm
by mico
zuffen wrote:The easiest and cheapset way to get the torque you want is buy a Bullet Cars manifold or one off Jordy's Ski Boat on
www.lextreme.com and fit an eaton M90 running around 5-6lb.
You can use the stock ECU and you'll see a vast improvement in drivebility. It's a simple easy cheap conversion. You should be able to do this well under $1,500.00.
My Kelford cams (from NZ) cost over $2,000.00 and will give less than the blower.
it'll cost more then $1,500 as it costs about $7000 to put an m90 onto a soarer there's alot more to it then you would think
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:35 pm
by -Scott-
1. A more restrictive exhaust means the exhaust doesn't exit the cylinder as quickly, so it's like decreasing your valve overlap. This generally helps with low-rpm smoothness/tractability - and torque. At higher revs, you've decreased the engine's ability to breathe - so less power.
Anybody know an easy way to switch a restriction in and out of your exhaust - rev dependent?
2. I always thought longer intake runners were better for low rpm torque - wasn't this part of the reason for "slanting" the 6? Put the cylinder head on one side of the engine bay, and the carby on the other side on a really long intake manifold...
3. Please forgive my ignorance, but can't you make up for a small supercharger by spinning it faster? At the expense of high-speed flow, obviously...
Scott
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:31 pm
by MissDrew
mico wrote:
it'll cost more then $1,500 as it costs about $7000 to put an m90 onto a soarer there's alot more to it then you would think
Ya thats drive in drive out with them suppling the blower.