Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Would something like the turbo found on an RB30 or even one of the rollerbearing cored motors like a Nissan Rb26 work ? (Multivalve inline 6 cyl 2.6 litre motor .. makes lots of horsies)

Or for a bolt on .. perhaps a CT26 from a supra ? (no idea how "bolt on" it would actually be)

better to use a turbo thats off a similar sized deisel. i think the early toyota 3 litre turbo use a CT26 as some people have them fitted (with adaptors) to the 2LT.

love_mud wrote:

bastard wrote:no i couldnt find a pre fabbed dump pipe but it wasnt hard to make,and to increase the boost you pack washes behind the bolts on the front of the turbo which moves the bracket forward,i moved mine forward about 3mm and my boost went from 7 to 9.

Ahh the old washer as "shims" My sort of engineering

I was told to do it that way from a reputable deisel shop when i bought my new injector pump,if there is a better way i would be glad for you to let me know how.thanks Richard

I had a new dump pipe made up from Jack Beedham's I think it was around $110. Then decided to go the whole way with a 2.5inch system with a flexi joint near the gearbox so I don't need to cut it next time I take the gearbox out off. That costed a bit more to do but it was worth it.

bastard wrote:

love_mud wrote:

bastard wrote:no i couldnt find a pre fabbed dump pipe but it wasnt hard to make,and to increase the boost you pack washes behind the bolts on the front of the turbo which moves the bracket forward,i moved mine forward about 3mm and my boost went from 7 to 9.

Ahh the old washer as "shims" My sort of engineering

I was told to do it that way from a reputable deisel shop when i bought my new injector pump,if there is a better way i would be glad for you to let me know how.thanks Richard

Richard, I used to use the washers, now have a bleed valve (under hood) in line and dial up what ever boost I want (need a gauge tho so it dosen't go too far), usually 1/4 turn for a little more offroad push and back for a bit better economy. Usually 9 - 10 psi.
Doug.

one advantage boost controllers have is elimateing waste gate creep.

a bleed valve with a long tube on it also helps with waste gate creep as the tube takes a bit of time to fill with presure to operate the waste gate.

Thanks guys.

was told today that if iam doing the turbo conversion that i would need to swap the head

Ive never seen anyone talk about his here ...

4x4Monkey wrote:was told today that if iam doing the turbo conversion that i would need to swap the head

Ive never seen anyone talk about his here ...

No, you don't need to swap the head.

no need to swap the head just have to tap in some manifold studs on the exhaust side to marry up with the 2lt turbo manifold. Some 3L's already have the holes just need to clean em up a bit and thread in ya studs

4x4Monkey wrote:was told today that if iam doing the turbo conversion that i would need to swap the head

Ive never seen anyone talk about his here ...

how on earth did they get that idea ? what on earth could you swap it to?

the only other thing not often done is to swap the cam in case the turbo motors have different cam timings.

it is a common conversion, just try and source the manual boost compensted pump as the full load injection volume is 3.4 cc's more at max boost, which gives you the extra power gain of the turbo, if you run the stock pump (3L) it will be enriched over the whole range, giving that puff of black smoke just before boost kicks in so a bit more heat and wasted fuel, a very worthwhile conversion, just choose the best bits first up. The Ct 20 off a 2L can be run on a 5L it will come on boost quicker, but be limited at the top end of boost, but most worthwhile is the boost compensated pump.

The pump off a 2LTE come with one of these compensators as stock. So if you're lucky try to source yourself a pump off a wrecked surf while you're getting it's turbo and pumbing kit.

Yumsylux wrote:The pump off a 2LTE come with one of these compensators as stock. So if you're lucky try to source yourself a pump off a wrecked surf while you're getting it's turbo and pumbing kit.

sorry, but no. the 2LTE dosn't have a comp on it. its electronic and uses the boost sensor and ecu to tell the pump to add more fuel while under boost.

the 2lt and 2lt-(2) have manual comps (ie vac hose goes from manifold to diaphragm on the pump).

Oh apologies for the misinfo then. I was just regurgitating what I was told from the mech that sold me the bits for my turbo and motor. I shoulda looked into these things first before posting.

I have all my bits for the conversion but I dont have the boost compensator. Does anyone know anyone selling one for a 2.8D?

Highway diesel,for around the 550 mark.

possibly going this weekend to get some stuff

what things should i grab
I know the turbo and exhaust manifold
the oil filter bracket
do i need to brap the pump aswell
or what other things should i grab

juit been quoted around $950 for a complet ct20 turbo setup from all four x four parts at minden

dame thast sounds freaking expensive

4x4Monkey,

If the turbo is in good condition thats a fairly good price

$900 is a good price monkey. As long as it's in good nick. The local turbo shop in Windsor here charges $3100 for a complete DTS kit. +fitting and mod plate for 3L. Hope that gives you a good indication what it'll cost...

ijust a question i have heard from a friend who's looking at supercharging his 2.8 that if you put a turbo or supercharger on you need to replace the gear box i thought its not needed but wanted to check here.

thanks dave

4x4Monkey wrote:juit been quoted around $950 for a complet ct20 turbo setup from all four x four parts at minden

dame thast sounds freaking expensive

I was quoted similar by the 4x4 spares in The central coast. All 4x4 in Newy wanted only $560, but they don't have one in.


I picked one up privately for $400, has some oil marks on the induction side (Im telling myself the engine had blow by) but all in all looks well.

So I figured that the turbo sits above the manifold (my previous one sat low), but what can I do with this fricken wastegate?? I don't want it around behind the engine, just looks like a pita. Can I block it shut?? 3L engine.


How do I plumb the water lines in?? They look to be inline with the heater hoses?

*edit* 2LT-E engine(turbo)

dmcruising wrote:ijust a question i have heard from a friend who's looking at supercharging his 2.8 that if you put a turbo or supercharger on you need to replace the gear box i thought its not needed but wanted to check here.

thanks dave

Ive heard of people who drop 1KZ-TE's and Supra motors into LN106 hilux's have to fit cruiser gearboxes as the poor little G52 doesnt cope well with over 300nm of torque!

If i go the prado motor swap option for my LN106, then i'll have a prado gearbox behind it (without the full time 4wd tho)

ferrit wrote:

dmcruising wrote:ijust a question i have heard from a friend who's looking at supercharging his 2.8 that if you put a turbo or supercharger on you need to replace the gear box i thought its not needed but wanted to check here.

thanks dave

Ive heard of people who drop 1KZ-TE's and Supra motors into LN106 hilux's have to fit cruiser gearboxes as the poor little G52 doesnt cope well with over 300nm of torque!

If i go the prado motor swap option for my LN106, then i'll have a prado gearbox behind it (without the full time 4wd tho)

For a turbo or supercharger a gearbox change is not needed ferrit.

Spent a couple of hours tinkering today, have it at the stage that I can bolt it on almost, it sits flush with the head now anyway...

Bought new manifold studs(lost the jar mine where in) and fitted them in the correct pattern for the surf manilfold.

Had to move the water cooling lines to the other side of the turbo as they were wedged against the heater hoses and wouldn't bolt up flush, had to remove the braces underneath aswell because they were hitting the oil filter and not allowing the turbo on.

I worked out what I thought to be the wastegate, I was getting ahead of myself. The wastegate is definately bolted onto the turbo as I have seen on my other two turbo's, it just needs the hose.

The part I was referring to was a long pipe that connected directly to the exhaust manifold and went around the back of the engine to connect with the inlet manifold with what looks a diaghram of sorts. I am guessing this has something to the efi on surfs? and that I should just remove the pipe(done already) and close off the hole in the manifold??

The oil feed line doesn't connect with my existing setup which comes out of the oil pressure switch port. The fitting seems to have no-where to go on my engine either, the one place it looks like it would fit into doesn't seem to be an oil gallery. It doesn't look like it will be too hard to adapt to my current set-up though if I modify the pipe to fit my hose.


So the problems I need answers to if anyone knows are...

Should I make a plate to shut the hole off in the exhaust manifold? I can't see this diaghram being of use to me.

Will the remote oil filter fix my problem with the oil line not connecting to the engine? I think I read that it will fix my problem with the support brackets though I wouldn't fit it just for that purpose.

How exactly do I plumb the water lines into my cooling system, It looks like I have to use tee peices but I just can't picture exactly how that will work.

Make the plate to shut of the exhaust manifold,the water cooling lines i got a copy of from the turbo shop they printed it out for me,and i dont understand what you mean by the oil line not conecting to the engine.cheers

The current setup has a fitting, the type you would slot a bolt through into an oil gallery. It's name escapes me atm but the bolt you put through it has holes in it and allows oil to pass through the whole fitting.


I took my old braided line along with the fittings off the ct20 to pirtek today and will pick up the modified hoses tomorrow at lunch, that issue is fixed I hope

Im thinking of brazing some tubes into my heater hoses but will take some measurements of the pipe and hose sizes tomorrow before going to pirtek and will try to arrange some sort of tee set-up. I still can't picture it in its position though.

I bought some tee's to fit into the heater hose and they wouldn't suit, so I bought some brass fitting and brazed them into the steel heater hoses. Im guessing I now have to make a join between the heater hoses so it flows while the heater is turned off.

How do I spin the outlet of the turbo around to face upward more? Mine blows almost directly at the rocker cover and the make do pipe I have on sits firmly on it.

Does anyone know the type of flange I have to buy? I don't want to take the whole turbo off again to get a single flange.