Outer Limits 4x4 Board

redzook wrote:
why are u extending the chassis?

how much are u planning to lay over ur coilovers

No we have not with the engineer...YET
That is why we are hear to throw ideas up for group feedback prior
I agree with the panhard

Re Engine and box: Got a VP runner cheap so that is what we are using. the idea is keep the buld cheap without skimping on quality of workmanship and safety

Re Suspension: It's all swings and round abouts atm. So many options.

Re Chassis Extension: particularluy with the Nissan Difs under the chassis need extending maily to so it does not look stumpy (short and fat)plus 100 inch or there abouts seems to be the choice for comp rigs. Looking at using a McDonald Bros rear ute clip ( http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/utechassis.html ) with custom 3 or 4 link on coilovers

Check the Mcdonal Bros site out
They have some good gear from rod ends to brackets the sell everything as a kit or seperatly
My save some anguish with custom setups

Thinking of asking will they consider making 4x4 rails with a greater wall thickness (currently 3mm) and pick up points for the main types of diffs used (Lux, Cruiser and Patrol). Do you guys think there is a market for these?
What is the recommendod wall thickness for chassis rails

3link a frames coilovers , or coil rears with hydro/pneumatic coil mounts (can get good pricing) or floating mounts,

noelb1 wrote:3link a frames coilovers , or coil rears with hydro/pneumatic coil mounts (can get good pricing) or floating mounts,

email me some info, looking at a few ideas.

thinking of making a coil over sleeve to run a standar 14" traval shock into as a cheap option and something different

links looking at chome moly hex or tube with female thread and eys with threaded slubs for some degree of adjustability, something to fit nissan slotted bushed into it for flex.

want to get the arms close to all the same lenght or maybe 2 lenths top cut donw the amoutn of spares needed.

coil overs front pretty much straight

layed over on rear but maintan as much tray as possible.

custome space cab ute, maybe soft tom maybe bit sunrood thing maybe hard top

may run trans brake, will have two rams for cutting brakes left and right rear, prolly disk on tail shaft for hand brake, tl230 set up for digs, there is a nice but very expensive gearing uption which we may look at for the tansfer, but at this stage will just be diff ratios as the transfer set up will cost over $5k

for now,

cut body and strip, play with drive train and get it mocked into place so we can play with where and how the suspension sits

from Wayne..... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_40.html

these would be awsome

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

one word "klune" (sp) the varible hydrulic drive

save some money run patrol xfer with crawlersc and a rear disconnect?

correction Klunev check out these http://www.klunev.com/

http://www.klunev.com/samurai_article_l ... ersion.htm

noelb1 wrote:correction Klunev check out these http://www.klunev.com/

any idea on $$? looks the goods

I have a trimatic 3sp auto with a underdrive thats modified to bolt up to 1.3 ltr seirra transfer if you are interseted. this way its under driven before the transfer case then use rockhoppers and your in a serious low gear

that klunev for seirra is sweet I want one does any one in australia sell these

noelb1 wrote:correction Klunev check out these http://www.klunev.com/

http://www.klunev.com/samurai_article_l ... ersion.htm

hit the second link they have a unit that bolts to the front of the zook transfer for up to 250:1

got a price no change from $5000 for the zook kit

twinn stick it with lux xfers

noelb1 wrote:

noelb1 wrote:correction Klunev check out these http://www.klunev.com/

http://www.klunev.com/samurai_article_l ... ersion.htm

hit the second link they have a unit that bolts to the front of the zook transfer for up to 250:1

yeah but is uses a zook transfer......breaky breaky seriously though, the underdrive box at the right price is a serious option, as far as drive train goes we are pretty set so it need to fit into what we have now

I want to steer awayt from rear disconnects, I think a teanfer capable of digs is a better option personally, thats why I sold the nissan transfer I had

$1799 USD for the klunev that just sit inline between the xfer and gbox

noelb1 wrote:$1799 USD for the klunev that just sit inline between the xfer and gbox

so $2500 give or give by the time its landed...hmmmm would be nice, I think if it was to be done it would want to be done whiule it is being built rather than trying to fit it later ie moving mounts, tail shaft lenths etc

Snake racing are dealers for them.

anyone got one who can give any feedback

alot of guys on pirate4x4 run them

Tiny wrote:anyone got one who can give any feedback

gear the lt230 way cheaper i think there is a 4.9:1 or somthing set for them

try to get ur coilovers wide as possible and only leaned in a little

lt230 really dosent dig that well at all i have seen one case that digs well out of a hole heep that try it

most front engine buggys running lt230 have a proper rear disconnect on the back of the transfer

redzook wrote:

Tiny wrote:anyone got one who can give any feedback

gear the lt230 way cheaper i think there is a 4.9:1 or somthing set for them

try to get ur coilovers wide as possible and only leaned in a little

lt230 really dosent dig that well at all i have seen one case that digs well out of a hole heep that try it

most front engine buggys running lt230 have a proper rear disconnect on the back of the transfer

true but I dont want the weight of an np205 so will see what control / success we have with the lt230 and go from there.

from what I have seen the rear engine buggies with lt230s work well, front engined not as well

if we just gear the lt230 we will go 4.8s and it should be ok, with the auto it will be a little more forgiving. super low with an extra splitter would be very nice though

the coils over will be near straight at the front, layed a little in the rear more for profile than anything, but when we get to that we will have a bit of a play with what looks / will work best

Tiny wrote:

redzook wrote:

Tiny wrote:anyone got one who can give any feedback

gear the lt230 way cheaper i think there is a 4.9:1 or somthing set for them

try to get ur coilovers wide as possible and only leaned in a little

lt230 really dosent dig that well at all i have seen one case that digs well out of a hole heep that try it

most front engine buggys running lt230 have a proper rear disconnect on the back of the transfer

true but I dont want the weight of an np205 so will see what control / success we have with the lt230 and go from there.

from what I have seen the rear engine buggies with lt230s work well, front engined not as well

if we just gear the lt230 we will go 4.8s and it should be ok, with the auto it will be a little more forgiving. super low with an extra splitter would be very nice though

the coils over will be near straight at the front, layed a little in the rear more for profile than anything, but when we get to that we will have a bit of a play with what looks / will work best

they work well in the rear engine buggys because they weld the center diff in them making exact same as the patrol/sierra/hilux case but since the motor is in backtofront when they put it in 2wd it makes the front wheels spin and not the rear

redzook wrote:

Tiny wrote:

redzook wrote:

Tiny wrote:anyone got one who can give any feedback

gear the lt230 way cheaper i think there is a 4.9:1 or somthing set for them

try to get ur coilovers wide as possible and only leaned in a little

lt230 really dosent dig that well at all i have seen one case that digs well out of a hole heep that try it

most front engine buggys running lt230 have a proper rear disconnect on the back of the transfer

true but I dont want the weight of an np205 so will see what control / success we have with the lt230 and go from there.

from what I have seen the rear engine buggies with lt230s work well, front engined not as well

if we just gear the lt230 we will go 4.8s and it should be ok, with the auto it will be a little more forgiving. super low with an extra splitter would be very nice though

the coils over will be near straight at the front, layed a little in the rear more for profile than anything, but when we get to that we will have a bit of a play with what looks / will work best

they work well in the rear engine buggys because they weld the center diff in them making exact same as the patrol/sierra/hilux case but since the motor is in backtofront when they put it in 2wd it makes the front wheels spin and not the rear

so there no really using the centre diff just putting it in 2wd?

noelb1 wrote:

so there no really using the centre diff just putting it in 2wd?

yes sort of like twin sticking an np205 coz it is in reverse, from wh8at I have heard the problem getting them to dig the right way around is getting them to wind up enough or something, it will be interesting to have a play, if it doesnt work then mybe look at a disconect then.

let me play with it pleeeaaase

noelb1 wrote:let me play with it pleeeaaase

lol, maybe

noelb1 wrote: so there no really using the centre diff just putting it in 2wd?

correct

what about an atlas 2