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Diesel Oil - Your Pick?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
oil
I use Valvaline 15w 40 super diesel in my 80. Only cause the previous owner had brough it by the drum load and only used it. It seems to work well and stays clean.
Just another question how long before you oil is black after you put in fresh. I am up to 4000km's since the last change and it is only starting to darken now. The Mrs pulsar oil is more black at that many km's than the 80.
Just another question how long before you oil is black after you put in fresh. I am up to 4000km's since the last change and it is only starting to darken now. The Mrs pulsar oil is more black at that many km's than the 80.
Dave, Nat, Braiden, Ethan and now Elizabeth
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Re: oil
Engine oils are designed to clean, cool, lubricate and transfer waste. Much like your blood in your body.Toli wrote:I use Valvaline 15w 40 super diesel in my 80. Only cause the previous owner had brough it by the drum load and only used it. It seems to work well and stays clean.
Just another question how long before you oil is black after you put in fresh. I am up to 4000km's since the last change and it is only starting to darken now. The Mrs pulsar oil is more black at that many km's than the 80.
If your oil isn't getting black in a diesel then you've either got the worlds most efficient engine or maybe your engine oil isn't doing it's job.
Alot of people running LPG are of the misconceiption that they don't need to change there oil because it doesn't go black. this is wrong. Oil collects all the crap from your engine. As soon as it comes in contact with carbon monoxide it starts to break down so the color isn't relevant in that respect.
The dirtier your oil is the more it's cleaned and the more crap it's collected.
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
Hmm looks like the Penrite HPR 15w50 it is for me.
One more question.
Im guessing the majority of people on this forum are from the cooler climates of OZ. Ive just moved to the NT and was wondering if I should look into a slightly different oil as I dont think it ever gets below 20 degC here?
Cheers
One more question.
Im guessing the majority of people on this forum are from the cooler climates of OZ. Ive just moved to the NT and was wondering if I should look into a slightly different oil as I dont think it ever gets below 20 degC here?
Cheers
Re: oil
Thanks for that. It is not like it is the same from when I first change it to 5000km. When it gets to 5k it is black. When I owned a a pajero TD it was more black (if that sounds right).Ruffy wrote:Engine oils are designed to clean, cool, lubricate and transfer waste. Much like your blood in your body.Toli wrote:I use Valvaline 15w 40 super diesel in my 80. Only cause the previous owner had brough it by the drum load and only used it. It seems to work well and stays clean.
Just another question how long before you oil is black after you put in fresh. I am up to 4000km's since the last change and it is only starting to darken now. The Mrs pulsar oil is more black at that many km's than the 80.
If your oil isn't getting black in a diesel then you've either got the worlds most efficient engine or maybe your engine oil isn't doing it's job.
Alot of people running LPG are of the misconceiption that they don't need to change there oil because it doesn't go black. this is wrong. Oil collects all the crap from your engine. As soon as it comes in contact with carbon monoxide it starts to break down so the color isn't relevant in that respect.
The dirtier your oil is the more it's cleaned and the more crap it's collected.
When I did a oil change in the pajero I could put a litre of new oil in the top let it run out the bottom and it was as black as the stuff I just took out. This does not happen in the crusier. May because of direct injection.
Dave, Nat, Braiden, Ethan and now Elizabeth
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Bye Bye 80 Series............Hello XR6T
Re: oil
your right, direct injection is much cleaner than indirect injected enginesToli wrote:Thanks for that. It is not like it is the same from when I first change it to 5000km. When it gets to 5k it is black. When I owned a a pajero TD it was more black (if that sounds right).Ruffy wrote:Engine oils are designed to clean, cool, lubricate and transfer waste. Much like your blood in your body.Toli wrote:I use Valvaline 15w 40 super diesel in my 80. Only cause the previous owner had brough it by the drum load and only used it. It seems to work well and stays clean.
Just another question how long before you oil is black after you put in fresh. I am up to 4000km's since the last change and it is only starting to darken now. The Mrs pulsar oil is more black at that many km's than the 80.
If your oil isn't getting black in a diesel then you've either got the worlds most efficient engine or maybe your engine oil isn't doing it's job.
Alot of people running LPG are of the misconceiption that they don't need to change there oil because it doesn't go black. this is wrong. Oil collects all the crap from your engine. As soon as it comes in contact with carbon monoxide it starts to break down so the color isn't relevant in that respect.
The dirtier your oil is the more it's cleaned and the more crap it's collected.
When I did a oil change in the pajero I could put a litre of new oil in the top let it run out the bottom and it was as black as the stuff I just took out. This does not happen in the crusier. May because of direct injection.
when i do an oil change, it takes 5 minutes for the oil to be completely black. Hj60 indiorect injected 2H
In the toyota 2H manual it does show a graph of temperatures and the oil that should be used.danos wrote:Hmm looks like the Penrite HPR 15w50 it is for me.
One more question.
Im guessing the majority of people on this forum are from the cooler climates of OZ. Ive just moved to the NT and was wondering if I should look into a slightly different oil as I dont think it ever gets below 20 degC here?
Cheers
Im not really certain on how to read the graph properly as it is very vague, but from what i think is going on, 15/40 is good for as low as -12degrees C and any temp above this.
It does show 20-50 and 20-40 weight oils on the same arrow thingo-majig so im assuming 20-50 can be used for the same range.
10-40 and 10-50 go a little lower to -18 degrees C and any temp higher than this, and 5-30 shows a max temperature of 10 degrees C and any temperature below this.
So if you plan on seeing temps close to 5degrees C best to stick witha 15-40 or 15-45, but if you dont plan on seeing temps below 16 degrees C you could use a 20-50, but seriously, a 15-40 or 15-45 is really the oil to use.
If you plan on driving the arctic circle use 5-30 oil.
edited
Last edited by joel HJ60 on Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
i ran CAT 15 -40 in my old mans navara, flushing with about 50 L before fillling it up every time. Before that it had 390 kms on it, using the same oil. Its got 450 now running like a dream. I dont recommend CAT oil for engines that are going from hot to cold alot, CAT detergents operate at a higher temps to normal domestic oils, but if you travel alot it's good. I run synthetic oil in my cruiser now, i had a metullurgist tell me to change to this. I haven't noticed any difference in performance or anything, but i do flush it as im changing it as well (i would only flush it if the oil is free, i waste a least 80-100L flushing and synthetic isnt cheap or so ive heard). And you were right before about if you oil isnt turning black somethings wrong. If you dont flush which is about everyone, it should turn black in about 500 km if that. but at the end of the day everyone, even guys with doctorites that went to uni and been doin this shit for 25 years still dis-agree with each other. I would though try and stick roughly to the same oil. (there is no evidence to back that up, i just guess that staying with the same isnt going to hurt the engine, but changing it might or might not...who knows). Best advice trial and error, there are an endless amount of opinions.
Lewi
Vinegar Stroke 4x4
Central QLD
Vinegar Stroke 4x4
Central QLD
Anecdotal evidence only .. butlewi_cruiser wrote: I would though try and stick roughly to the same oil. (there is no evidence to back that up, i just guess that staying with the same isnt going to hurt the engine, but changing it might or might not...who knows). Best advice trial and error, there are an endless amount of opinions.
My older brother used to always use the smae oil in his MQ (what he got from the workshop .. I belive it was penrite) When he left his job he switched to mobil oil (not the cheapie stuff) same weight .. ate oil faster than a GU on the beach ate petrol Thought the motor was stuffed and by the look of the smoke billowing from the exhaust most people would agree ...
My grandad (retired mechanic) told him to swap back to the old oil he had been using .. oil consumption dropped massively ... kept the car another 55,000k's with further drama ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Anyone used the german FUCHS oil? My spare parts bloke was selling that at a good price and used it for the last 4 years. Seemed to be a good oil as the vavoline i was running when i got it, the motor seemed to be a little noisier. I've been told by a few people that the fuchs is good stuff and was surprised no one is using it on the forum. Was i led down the wrong path?
penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.
am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?
am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
a car is there to serve man.gu town wrote:penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.
am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?
my opinion, If you cant get in a car and drive it, why have it.
I think it is very old fashioned to wait and warm a car up.
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
We were using FUCHS oil at work in all the trucks it was a multifleet oil and they all burned between 10-15liters of oil between changes didnt matter how old the truck was.rowenb wrote:Anyone used the german FUCHS oil? My spare parts bloke was selling that at a good price and used it for the last 4 years. Seemed to be a good oil as the vavoline i was running when i got it, the motor seemed to be a little noisier. I've been told by a few people that the fuchs is good stuff and was surprised no one is using it on the forum. Was i led down the wrong path?
Since changed to shell rimula x and no more oil burning.
If you look at the Shell lubefinder on their website they list the RIMULA X as the premium engine oil for a 2H.
how long do you want it to serve for?Shadow wrote:a car is there to serve man.gu town wrote:penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.
am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?
my opinion, If you cant get in a car and drive it, why have it.
I think it is very old fashioned to wait and warm a car up.
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
how long do you want it to serve for?Shadow wrote:a car is there to serve man.gu town wrote:penrite HPR 15-40 here every 5000. when i was in vic in winter my car would NEVER move until it was up to operating temp. even then i took it easy for a while because it's worth noting your oil warms up slower than your water.
am i the only one that cringes when people start their cars or anything and just drive?
my opinion, If you cant get in a car and drive it, why have it.
I think it is very old fashioned to wait and warm a car up.
GU td42 ute with go fast bits and go futher bits
penrite make a 15/50
Z9s are shiite
I went to a shell 15/40 whick seems to cause less smoking
and use at the moment a K&N Oil filter which even for me is expensive
dose a great job
but I will be trying a westfield filter next as its been ok on my wifes car and a fark lot better than a carp ryco one
P.s i sell them for a living and have fitted them all to my car
Z9s are shiite
I went to a shell 15/40 whick seems to cause less smoking
and use at the moment a K&N Oil filter which even for me is expensive
dose a great job
but I will be trying a westfield filter next as its been ok on my wifes car and a fark lot better than a carp ryco one
P.s i sell them for a living and have fitted them all to my car
Manuels= 4wd,cars,bikes,guns,trucks,race cars
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
oils
I use mobil 15w 40 in my 1hz 80 series has fixed rear main leak
used 15w40 in gq 4.2 diesel nissan oil
used 10w40 in gu 3litre nissan oil
use mobil 1 0w40 in all mercedes benz cdi diesels
used 15w40 in gq 4.2 diesel nissan oil
used 10w40 in gu 3litre nissan oil
use mobil 1 0w40 in all mercedes benz cdi diesels
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