Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have to agree with Steve here. You have plenty of time to get everything together before you go converting the engine. I wouldnt be worried about how quickly you can get a conversion kit right now. Concentrate on the body for now, get it up to scratch and then look at other things.
But to answer your questions the last kit he made me took a few weeks. The best gearbox is the T50 from the AE86 Sprinter. There are 2 types, one is 20 spline and the other 22, although I have yet to see a 20 spline box they are apparently not as strong. All Jap spec boxes are 22 spline (from what I have heard) and have the clutch slave cylinder on the R/H side. The Aussie spec gearboxes have the slave on the L/H side. I can only assume the differences here were for either the 4A-C or 4A-GE engine but not sure why.

Aerenandmel off this forum had a 4age in his 1 litre swb zuk backed up by a t50 box,extractors,xhaust microtech computer etc and it was awesome.it copped some abuse and the 1 ltr diffs etc held up fine,much better than his other 4k zuk n my std 1.3 zuk. Id love to own one after seeing the difference it makes,very impressive.

got the little beast home

steve
had a big releif when i removed the windscreen only to find no bog work and no rust appart from where it could be seen will most likely need new windscreen tho as has rust on the inside but might still be good for rego but will see




the back bar is covered in bog and rust will need to chop and weld new bar in going to use like 2mm think fla bar bunnings can supply that at a good price as i work there will be getting a wire fed cigwelder from there also to assist in the wellding jobs as the stick weld will be to hot and burn every thing



umm engine works put new points in went ok had no petrol put 10bucks in and the carbie needs a mad clean the guards need to come off and found a small whole of rust on the rear wheel arch which has eaten through the floor but easy fix


umm the front diff needs a sand and a spray?? not sure tho if thats the case might need to get new ones will see and post pics up soon also the brakes and all are rusted bad not worth fixing i think anyway umm rear diff looks or leaf springs are rusted and will need to be changed also the shocks need changing the completly gone. apart from fire wall and the few spots and te bar in the back car seems so far to be in good order very pleased with her so far

managed to get a front cut off a 92 swb got me guards and front clip etc fire wall and anything elese i need


also managed to pck up a complete hard top for the girl for a very good price thanks to butnuckle ( russ ) also who i bought the front cut off cheers


also bonnet has a few holes of rust nothing to bad tho i think at this point in time

i may want your engine after you stick the 4age in

will be in a while tho going to go for what steve said do the car right fisrt and then think about engine conversion lol

Nice work Try_me - you have done well getting all that stuff - looks like an easy job now - just time consuming.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:

Nice work Try_me - you have done well getting all that stuff - looks like an easy job now - just time consuming.

Steve.

yes i agree buying a welder from bunnings tomorrow and going to have to see either a flat, C channel or L channel bar to weld up in the rear

what do you guys think flat bar or L or C channel bars

50mmX25mm 'C' channel, 3mm thick, is a tight but good fit over the top of the rails. I did this with a club members car last year and it worked a treat. It adds a lot of strength to the tub - we mounted a luggage rack onto it.

Be careful though, there are a few issues with welding onto this rail. It is a double skin and there is seam sealer between the two. You will struggle like crazy to weld if there is any rust between the two panels.

Also, a quick word about bunnings welders.
Cheap Mig welders tend to have the following characteristics:
Some of them have very little adjustability If you need to turn it right down to weld body panels you will need to be able to turn it right down. Some only have a "high" and "low" setting.
Some do not allow gas to be used. Being committed to flux core wire is expensive and leads to messy welds.
Some don't take 5kg spools, only 500gm spools. 500gm spools are achingly expensive and you will go through it really fast, especially if you are running flux core wire (which doesn't pack as much steel in is solid wire for the same welding time)

I'm not saying you can't buy a good welder at Bunnings, but there are lots of rubbish ones available.

My folks bought me my Mig as a 21st present.... 11 years ago. It's an Esab 140amp model (runs off a 10amp socket) It's been perfectly reliable. It's the most useful thing I own.

They are alot cheaper than they used to be and quality migs start at about $700 now.

With the amount of welding you have ahead of you, don't rush in and buy a cheapie. If you buy a decent one it will become your best friend.

Steve.

got mine at a garage sale for $500, it's 195 amp single phase.

hunt around in the trade & post, ebay and local garage sales you will find a cheap good mig easy. even try the welder supply shops, they sometimes have cheap ones that have been traded.


Mitch

http://www.ozito.com.au/productinfo.aspx?prodid=OZMW90A

what u think of that???

or

not sure cant find a link buts its a $699 CIG WELD brand welder from bunnings??

the ozito and the cig weld have practically same features the only difference is the brand my mate at work told me and $400 dollars but ye the cig also needs gas i dont have gas and the ozito is gas less more practical for me to use

http://www.cigweld.com.au/uplFiles/prod ... %206pp.pdf

The 90 is gasless only
The 135 will do gas/gasless.

Any welder that uses gas will also weld gasless with the right wire. If you buy a welder that is advertised as "gasless" you won't be able to add gas later on when you get sick of gasless wire (which you will)

Flux core wire is about 3 times dearer than solid wire. It is actually cheaper to weld with gas and it gives a much cleaner, better result.

I ran flux core for ages but once I went to gas I would never go back.

Flux core (gasless) is really intended for welding outdoors or in remote locations where gas is not practical.

Every cheap tool I have ever bought has had to be replaced. Spend the money and get the trade quality tool (cigweld)

I work in the industry - I do non destructive testing and inspection of welds for a living.

Steve.

PS saying that the $400 product and the $700 product are the same on features is like saying a Lada Niva and a vitara are the same because they are both 1.6 and coil sprung

so i think i will be buying the cig weld 135 pretty sure thats the same one at bunnings for 699 so got to save a little dsnt matter as allot of prep work before i can weld needs to be done lol

removed seats carpet not rust on floor the part which runs over your head in the car where its rusted out hasnt rusted the shell of the car but there was rust there previously so need to fix there also


fire wall
can i get it registered in NSW if i cut and weld it my brothers mates which work for mercedes said no way in hell can i get a blue slip like that.


car needs new exhause dont think i want that one looking like that for the blue slip going to have it all painted and looking spik and spam for the blue slip so it passes first go.


under the front seats the guy has cut and welded holes in??? not sure why but the bolts need to be held from the bottom to come off or the nut moves and when loosen the bolt and nut comes off doesnt that need to be welded to the car??? the bolt i mean

oh yes steve were u located?? also going to looking into ur C channel find one an see how we go.

The issue with the firewall might get a bit tricky, it depends on how you want to approach it. Removing the whole firewall is no big deal. Buy yourself a spot weld drill (just a specially shaped drill bit) this will become your new best friend. that way you can get the whole firewall out clean.

the complicated bit is how you approach it in regards to legality. If you talk to an engineer, odds are he will want you to run boosted brakes. As you already have the firewall from a boosted brake model, and need a rust repair, I reckon the engineer will love it.

If you try and do the repair before then engineer sees the car, he might pick up what you have done and become a bit suspiscious. If the engineer is not aware of the repair and the RWC tester picks it, you could have a stalemate. If the engineer knows, then it will be on the cert - maybe something like - "firewall replaced with later model to permit fitment of boosted brakes" will be on the cert and you will be in the clear.

Personally, If you want to engineer the final product, start talking to the engineer now, don't do any work until you speak to him.

People get scared of talking to engineers because they think they will stop them doing what they want to do. I have not found this to be the case. you will be surprised what and engineer will permit you to change and then you will have the satisfaction of knowing the car is legal end to end.

Steve.

anyone know of a good engineer???

preferably in syd

cheers nick

consulmotive?
i got my GU engineered by him

number???

il go to the car and have a look if its on the report

consulmotive pty ltd
unit 15/17-37 lorraine st peakhurst
02 91530011

cheers

no worries mate let me know how you go