Outer Limits 4x4 Board

germo,
have you found a wiring diagram for this conversion of are you using afer market ecu???

only just found your post 11_evl.
no aftermarket computer, I have a manual on cd and I think I will be able to get it going, but there is alot of stuff that won't be needed, heaps like elec window, headlight stuff. I think I can get it sorted! but that later

one of these would be nice
http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/wiringlooms.shtml



but $400, I will have a go at it myself

pm sent

ashley

is the motor in yet any update pics,
I have a sr20 out of a pulsar what manual gearbox is the best to get for this converson will the transfer have to be moved back will box fit in tunnel with a 2" body lift?

jimbo

jimbo jones wrote:is the motor in yet any update pics,
I have a sr20 out of a pulsar what manual gearbox is the best to get for this converson will the transfer have to be moved back will box fit in tunnel with a 2" body lift?

jimbo

Yes your Tcase will definately need to move back.

ive had mine in and running, SR20DE AUTO, have cooling issues, auto wiring issues and general lack of power issues.
i had to move the transfer back at least 150mm.
im using the STD wiring loom and computer. want33s gave me some great links to wiring it up, took about 2 hrs and it fired up with no problems at all.
i have 2" body lift and still had to modify the tunnel lots to make it all fit, have fun

11_evl wrote:ive had mine in and running, SR20DE AUTO, have cooling issues, auto wiring issues and general lack of power issues.
i had to move the transfer back at least 150mm.
im using the STD wiring loom and computer. want33s gave me some great links to wiring it up, took about 2 hrs and it fired up with no problems at all.
i have 2" body lift and still had to modify the tunnel lots to make it all fit, have fun

what about with the manual box do you still have to mod the tunnel to fit?

im not sure about the manual, but the manual should be a bit smaller than the auto. as in tunnel width

you will need to move the transfer back as has been said.

I think the tunnel will still need a rework for the manual

I am using a c4 auto and it should fit no worries, its sitting in my garage at the moment waiting for a instruction maunal so I can pull it apart and get a hilux gearbox female spline machined onto the c4 main shaft. I will be using the c4 to hilux adaptor to bolt the two together.
I could not justify paying money to marks adaptors for something I can get my old man to do!
the marks kit uses a new main shaft which obviously the c4 needs to be pulled apart for anyway!

once this is in it will be same length a suzuki gbox and transfer combo

also have the loom pulled apart in the lounge room on the floor, giving it a bit of a shakedown.

11_evl - what cooing system do you have?
ie radiator + themo

ashley

jimbo
is does your sr have the dizzy out the back like the gti motor? what will be your fix for this?

ashley

i had a vitara radiator that was is very average condition, mated to a 16" thermo. it ended up getting hot and spliting the top tank (i rushed alot to get this whole set up in and running)
than i put in a X2 hyndai excel radiator and 300zx thermo with a small one on the side. it seams to be working fine.
its all off the road now doing coils and wiring up the auto.

germo wrote:jimbo
is does your sr have the dizzy out the back like the gti motor? what will be your fix for this?

ashley

I havent checked its in a mate shed if it has one and not coil packs might not use it

jimbo jones wrote:

germo wrote:jimbo
is does your sr have the dizzy out the back like the gti motor? what will be your fix for this?

ashley

I havent checked its in a mate shed if it has one and not coil packs might not use it

all SR20DE run dizzy (unless some one has swaped it) only the SR20DET have coil packs

here is an easy guide to using a stock computer and loom!

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Eng ... _t_26.html


ashley

now if could only find one like that for the auto

getting a bit further along. c4 is apart and mainshaft is going to get sent to be cut and splined to 21 spline hilux.

below is pics of the gearbox - adapter and transfer all bolted together,
unfortunately I could not get the bellhousing on because the bolts I had were not long enough.

the shaft pieces are the main shaft that needs to be shortened
the output of a hilux gear box and coupling
and the input gear of the transfer case. just a bit of a visual really on what needs to be done!







oh and the motor, gbox, transfer, shafts and diffs are all basically sold, so once the motor is gone its time to spin the spanners!

ashley

bit more done

Looking good.
Do you no if there is another auto box that will bolt up to the SR with no adaptor plates?

only the standard auto will bolt on with no adaptors

hey 11_evl....did you say in a previous post that you used 2 hyundai excel radiators for your setup? if you did have you got pics? i'm interested to see it

dank wrote:hey 11_evl....did you say in a previous post that you used 2 hyundai excel radiators for your setup? if you did have you got pics? i'm interested to see it

lol
no no i meant x2 as in the model. X2, X3 hyundai excel. its the earlier type

hmm thought that may have been the case! the excel radiators are quite thin. I thought they wouldn't have enough balls to cool an sr20?

reason I ask is that i'm looking for a suitable radiator to use for my 20v 4age..can't seem to decide. the huyndai one is only used to cooling 80kw compared to the 119kw 20v....anyway thanks for the reply this isn't relevant to the rest of the thread. cheers

My 4age uses a corolla radiator with crank fan and 2 thermo's on the front, no shroud. I think most newer style alloy radiators will work as long as its properly shrouded and draws enough air through. You can get reasonable quality alloy ones of e-bay quite cheap.

looking at using one of these, it wont fit between the rails but may just fit under the bonnet, a bit expensive so I am open to ideas on production radiators, I have not been looking at other options yet, not at that stage!
this radiator is what the datto guys use

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT

that would be painfull to have a stick to go thru.
but i guess if the deminsions are near enough than it would work really well.

ordered one these should just fit!


RADIATOR DETAILS

MAKE = FORD / MAZDA

MODEL = LASER / 323

DETAILS = 94 - 98, KJ,

TRANSMISSION = SUITS AUTO OR MANUAL

CORE DIMENSIONS = 330X690X16

RADIATOR TYPE = PLASTIC/ALLOY


also got one of these on the way!





from here
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info ... f07a2ce193

Pressure Drop: Less than 0.1 PSI. This is not a typo! Liquid/Air Intercoolers have incredibly low pressure drop.
Inlet: 2.5" Outlet: 2.5"
Core Size: 9.25"x3.5"x3.5" (Endtanks add to length)
Maximum water/air pressure: 70 PSI



saves on trying to get inter-cooler pipes around the radiator and gives me more room at the front.
I also wont have to cut the grill and have an intercooler as a grill

the engine bay is getting tighter though!

I have to buy a dump pipe flange and make a new dump pipe to get it down before the firewall and in between the chassis and gearbox/motor

I'm getting excited!

ashley

[img][img]http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww19 ... rip183.jpg[/img]

looks a little different to that now though, all intake is gone from passenger side and now runs a pod on drivers side[/img]

very cool!

looks like its sitting in there well!

can you put up a few specs
including radiator, gbox etc

did you put a body lift in it?

and more pics

thanks ashley

running s13 gearbox, radiator is unknown but looks dodgy, will post up some pics soon

g'day stranger,

progress report? have heard that the pressures on to get it done....

Cheers,

Drewfus

wireing up an sr or ca is very easy there is a plug near the afm on silvias it right behind the left head light all power to this there is 2 acc power and 1 constant 12v

any update on this yet?