sr20det conversion

Post by **germo** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:31 pm

alot of people ask about and none do it.
there is no info on here about an sr20det into a suzuki sierra

this will be a tech thred I will jibber about my truck in the members thred.

this thred will take a while to complete, but I think there will be more info if I do it as I go, rather than a summary at the end!

first off options

sr20det + stock auto + zuk xfer 1Lt
sr20det + c4 auto + hilux xfer

another
sr20det + c4 auto + range rover auto

Prices - updated as I go
actual spent

LWB zook - stock $1300
sr20det motor w/loom and sensors - $800
sr20det auto loom - $200
sr20 auto gearbox inc shaft, converter and shifter - $100
auto computer - $100

(c4 option)
c4 auto to hilux xfer (by marks) $60 ebay
c4 auto needs possible rebuild $50

another option which is on the cards is and may be cheaper or easier.
I got a c4 auto to hilux transfer case adapter, $60 inc postage on ebay

the idea here is that you can run a maunual sr20det loom and computer (the auto loom and comp were a pita to find) , buy a c4 to sr20 bellhousing, they are not so cheap $400 - $500.

run the c4 auto which are cheap and small!! $100 - $200 and can be build up at a cost to run as much power as you want!

then run a c4 to hulix adaptor so you can run a hilux transfer case!

and use hilux diffs everything is sweet.

LWB suzuki sierra $1300, this thing is as stock as they come, I was wanting to put it into a SWB but LWB has more room for the longer transmission of an sr20.

at first I am going to get the sr20det and sr auto working, as this should be plug and play.
with the extra length of a LWB it should fit with a small jackshaft adaptor to the zuk xfer and diffs
possible upgrade to mq which I got for free!

I think a better plan would be the c4 auto which will most likely be a shorter unti in total lenth, due to the auto body being a bit smaller, it is only a 3 sp, and the extension housing is taken off and the xfer adaptor bolted to the rear of the auto!
the c4 doesn't need the sr20det auto computer to run either, making it possible to use a stock ecu or an after market one!

will update
ashley

Post by **joshnz1** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:51 pm

youll have to move the transfer back a heaps,and why auto they are really heavy

Post by **mugginsmoo** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:07 pm

what to you mean it hasn't been done.

there is a complete build up thread on it here

Post by **Dee** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:19 pm

mugginsmoo wrote:what to you mean it hasn't been done.

there is a complete build up thread on it here

no pics

christover???

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:25 pm

IMHO the auto is necessary to soften the hit and make the car more controllable. Running an auto was the biggest reason that Joey in our club rebuilt from a SWB into a LWB - to have room for the auto. It increased the drivability of the car out of sight - and he was DE not DET.

Yes they are heavier, but the SR20 itself isn't very heavy and the added weight of the auto is in a favourable spot at least.

Steve.

Post by **germo** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:23 am

joshnz1 wrote:youll have to move the transfer back a heaps,and why auto they are really heavy

thats why I'm looking at the c4 option.

the auto is for drivability and driveline protection of the torque converter.

weight is not a huge concern of mine, it will have enough power to move it and I am not a fan of super lightweight cars, they can't get traction.

ashley

Post by **germo** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:34 am

mugginsmoo wrote:what to you mean it hasn't been done.

there is a complete build up thread on it here

I've read that through a few times
that is all second hand info, with no direct input from the creator, and no pics. could you really find out as much info as you may need to do a conversion in that thread?

there is no options on completing the task. there is no info about the magic shortened 5 speed. which in my many searches on the web, found for sale in another forum a few years back by cristover maybe. is that box still around?? (christover)

so sorry if this is a re -post , but its better already than the other one!

ashley

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:57 am

germo wrote:
mugginsmoo wrote:what to you mean it hasn't been done.

there is a complete build up thread on it here
I've read that through a few times
that is all second hand info, with no direct input from the creator, and no pics. could you really find out as much info as you may need to do a conversion in that thread?

there is no options on completing the task. there is no info about the magic shortened 5 speed. which in my many searches on the web, found for sale in another forum a few years back by cristover maybe. is that box still around?? (christover)

so sorry if this is a re -post , but its better already than the other one!

ashley

Joey who built the car isn't on line so Christover was just photographing it as it went, so no, it's not a step by step guide.

The 5 speed was an SR20 silvia unit with a Skyline tailshaft housing. Joey was able to get this into a SWB, but the jackshaft was very short, the motor was mounted very stiff to prevent unwanted movement, and the end result did work but was quite harsh and vibration prone I think.

A key factor with the SR20 is that the head ends up sitting higher than the top of the radiator, so a header tank is required, along with some bleedsl. Joey ended up with a large radiator, thermo, and some holes in the bonnet too but I don't think it gets warm at all. Another 30kw of heat though will make this more critical.

look forward to reading about your progress.

Steve.

Post by **mugginsmoo** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:44 pm

chris is very close to joey ( the man who built the car), if you have any real questions, i suggest that you PM christover

Post by **christover1** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:36 pm

The first pix disappeared after an OL server update.
The rest disappeared when my image host dissolved.
I have all the original pix still.
Info wasn't too specific on request of the owner.
I have too many pix to upload them all again, but have done and can do pix for specific questions.
But I am still limited to what original owner and present owner allows, and limited by my own lack of specific knowledge, too..
It has been done by a few, but not too common.
I was in contact with a few who were attempting similar conversions, during the build.
If I can help I will try.
christover

Post by **ca18zook** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:45 pm

Hey
I have a ca18de in my zook. It a lwb ute and it has heaps of power. Having a turbo on the side, would make it a little wide to drive around on the street and would scare a few fellow races. The motors are very similar in grearbox length and the overall width of the sr motor are a lot bigger. Going with the auto is a good idear and im about to do a ca18de auto in my brother zook ute in the next mouth on so and im going to use the electronic auto that comes with the ca. These boxers are very strong and there able to be done up, get shift kitted and able to manaulise the box also. U will have to move the tranfer back for sure and do some cutting and shutting of the tunnel when u fit the auto. I was able to just fit the manaul box in the standed tunnel, but was very tight.

Here my build up
http://nbs4x4club.com/forum/index.php?t ... 8#msg81888
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Post by **mysterioussasvit** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:29 am

condem the 80 and use the diffs with hilux xfer and c4 go on i know u want to

Post by **germo** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:45 pm

where do I put the cab of the 80 after I flog the diffs.
just ring a srapie and get $100.

that makes them $10000 diffs!
no thanks

hilux will be nice and keep it looking half standard!

Post by **christover1** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:05 pm

A teaser pic

Post by **germo** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:22 am

oh that does look nice.

got any more of the engine bay?
pm me if you do please.

Post by **christover1** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:46 am

germo wrote:oh that does look nice.

got any more of the engine bay?
pm me if you do please.

I think I have more on an older disc, will have a look see.

Post by **christover1** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:02 pm

more

Post by **germo** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:19 pm

thanks for that!

it fits like a glove.

enjoy ashley

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:23 pm

germo wrote:thanks for that!

it fits like a glove.

enjoy ashley

a very very tight glove

Note this is a DE not a DET. There are a few different inlet manifold designs on the DET and some might be harder to work with than others around the brake cylinder. You'll notice in the photo of the inlet side if the motor Joey used banjo fittings on his master cylinder to clear the manifold.

Steve.

Post by **ca18zook** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:53 pm

As i said the ca18 are a lot smaller motor and give u more room to move

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Post by cj » Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:43 pm

ca18zook wrote:As i said the ca18 are a lot smaller motor and give u more room to move
[/img]

but not as small as a 660cc

I drove Gwagensteve's today and I was impressed with the way it pulled with 34's up the hills (on road)

Post by **tuf045** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:26 am

germo wrote:thanks for that!

it fits like a glove.

enjoy ashley

Germo all this talk not much work!

Christover what is with the long front body mounts? they the body mount with body lift in one?
Did he need the lift to fit motor or just for tyre clearance?

Post by **christover1** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:45 am

tuf045 wrote:
germo wrote:thanks for that!

it fits like a glove.

enjoy ashley
Germo all this talk not much work!

Christover what is with the long front body mounts? they the body mount with body lift in one?
Did he need the lift to fit motor or just for tyre clearance?

Yes it is bl and mount as one.
It was also to do with the fitting of long ranchos, and the shock towers et al.
Lift was always planned, so not sure if lift was needed for engine, but was needed for tyres. It is a very tight fit under the bonnet.

He did major suspension and body work on top of the engine drive line mods, so a lot of it is interwined, may not be needed if just doing engine.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:48 am

That car is running cressida power steer and full RUF so the steering box would have heavily interfered with the body mount.

Steve.

Post by **christover1** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:00 am

Gwagensteve wrote:That car is running cressida power steer and full RUF so the steering box would have heavily interfered with the body mount.

Steve.

Thats true. That was a big part of it, too.

Post by **waxhead..** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:04 am

So what has happened to this SR20 build? is it still around? is it comped or daily driven?

Post by **GRPABT1** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:25 pm

Are those huge shock towers and shocks necessary? Does thing car run drop shackle or eliptic? I can't see them anywhere near full extension with just ruff and normal shackles.

Post by cj » Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:52 pm

waxhead.. wrote:So what has happened to this SR20 build? is it still around? is it comped or daily driven?

About to be for sale.

Post by **christover1** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:23 pm

waxhead.. wrote:So what has happened to this SR20 build? is it still around? is it comped or daily driven?

It was used properely off road and on road legally, quite a lot, altho not daily as he has a werk van.
Was sold recently due to marriage and children.
I'm not sure if cj means its up for sale again?

Post by **christover1** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:25 pm

GRPABT1 wrote:Are those huge shock towers and shocks necessary? Does thing car run drop shackle or eliptic? I can't see them anywhere near full extension with just ruff and normal shackles.

yes.

front is ruf with small extensions to shackles, with very huge cuts out of wheel wells and firewall

rear was lockable 3/4 elyptic and slight ext to shackles

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