Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hj 45 wrote:Quick question, I have a Lincoln 210C mig and I want to use 0.6mm wire instead of the 0.9 I have been using, do I need a specific roller in the wire feed mechanism for the 0.6 stuff?

AFAIK most welders have 2 wire sizes on the one roller. Check the size shown on the roller. If its 0.6 just flip the rollers over and away you go.

Cheers,

Micko

Ok cheers, I'll check it out.

If i've missed it somewhere, Forgive me for being lazy and not reading the whole thread but i'd like to know if one of the small inverter sticks (<160amp) can weld sheet steel like car panels etc? Im talking floors, so a bit thicker than a door or whatever.
Reason being is because im looking at buying one, mainly because theyre cheaper and portable.....the 160amp CIG one we have at work is great, but i havent tried it on any plate thinner than 3mm. I've done it with a mig, but never stick.
I like the flash little portable migs like the kemppi ones, but im a bit scared of the pricetag for them. I like the sound of the Lincoln 180C, cheaper than i expected it to be.

nayto wrote:If i've missed it somewhere, Forgive me for being lazy and not reading the whole thread but i'd like to know if one of the small inverter sticks (<160amp) can weld sheet steel like car panels etc? Im talking floors, so a bit thicker than a door or whatever.
Reason being is because im looking at buying one, mainly because theyre cheaper and portable.....the 160amp CIG one we have at work is great, but i havent tried it on any plate thinner than 3mm. I've done it with a mig, but never stick.
I like the flash little portable migs like the kemppi ones, but im a bit scared of the pricetag for them. I like the sound of the Lincoln 180C, cheaper than i expected it to be.

I've got one of these http://www.bocworldofwelding.com.au/smo ... a-130.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; mainly cos of the 10amp plug (170amp is a 15amp plug). And its more than I'll ever need. I did some panel work with it, check my build thread here: http://forum.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtop ... &start=390" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .. my panel work is pretty rough but in skilled hands i'm sure it'd do a decent job.

I'm a n00b welder and have only ever used stick and its very versatile for my needs doin basic fab around the shed.

I'm so no worthy to post in this thread.. but heres a pick of a weld butt join on some 10mm mild steel. 3.2mm rods, 110AMP.. I tried my first verticle up today and I'm really surprised at how it came out, no pics though.

Thanks for the reply, whats the Boc worth?
Yeh they are handy, take them anywhere regardless of the wind and 10amp plug too. I've never tried an expensive gasless mig, but the cheap ones ive used are just hopeless......could be the operator though

nayto wrote:Thanks for the reply, whats the Boc worth?
Yeh they are handy, take them anywhere regardless of the wind and 10amp plug too. I've never tried an expensive gasless mig, but the cheap ones ive used are just hopeless......could be the operator though

Paid retail ~$325

Anyone had any luck with gasless wire? I've tried CIG stuff in my lil kemppi and i think its shit (tried reverse polarity and didn't notice any real difference welding gal rhs) and would rather lug a bottle around.

ive never had a really good looking weld with anything gasless.was only on a cheap little mig tho

the gal on the rhs is probably half your problem tho

shorty_f0rty wrote:

nayto wrote:Thanks for the reply, whats the Boc worth?
Yeh they are handy, take them anywhere regardless of the wind and 10amp plug too. I've never tried an expensive gasless mig, but the cheap ones ive used are just hopeless......could be the operator though

Paid retail ~$325

Thats way cheaper than i expected......did that come with lead, clamp etc ready to go?

it needs to be straight polarity for flux wire, check the current and wire speed for THAT wire, dont just run it at what you normally do for solid wire, it is completely different. Ive now done about 2 hours of flux core wire and it is actually pretty stable arc and good to work with.

I am just a fitter, not a boily so im not the best person to talk to about using the flux core stuff. I do see alot of it used (heavy machinery) and like how it turns out most of the time.

You need to remember that there is a difference between flux cored wire and gasless wire, flux cored wire needs to be run with a shielding gas as well and performs better than gasless wire or normal gas shielded wire.

Cheers

ive been running gasless wire on a lincon 170 welder (onsite)for years, and it works fine. but it does weld differently to gas welding and takes a bit to get used too. i find it better to weld gal too. im currently replacing the hand rails at work using the gassless, much easier than my 250 amp WIA to lug up and down the stairs
ill take a photo of the welds tomorrow and post them up

cheers steve

is it tomorrow yet

Just started a welding course, starting off with stick and moving on to mig, oxy and finally TIG

I've got pad welds, and 3run fillets down with the stick, no chipping slag, all even, angles pretty close... then we get to the vertical xmas tree up. I cannot get it smooth or even, I can get a good sized pool and good penetration, I'm keeping my tree/weave nice and tight, but can't keep it consistant

Cant remember the machine, we are using 13 or 14 cheapo GP rods with a range of 80 - 110 amps and normal of 90. with the fillet I'm running around 95-100 amps depending on the material's temp.

What I'm asking is anyone got some good solid tips on getting my xmas tree nice and even and consistant? I think my problem is partly I cant find that "sweet spot" or where to overlap the pool. are just welding 10mm mild steel plate if that makes any difference

Cheer's

Simon

less amps for vertical up, low hydrogen rods make it alot easier too

chunderlicious wrote:less amps for vertical up, low hydrogen rods make it alot easier too

thanks, don't get a choice in rod.

The trick to a good vertical up is making sure everything stays consistant like you said..eg, making sure your timing of movements is the same each time you move the stick across, the pause is the same every time ect ect. Counting in your head makes it easier.
The height you travel up each time needs to stay the same, and definately your arc length ie how far away you stick is from the job. This is a big one. If your arc length fluctuates too much your weld will look like pigeon sh1t. If you're welding the normal 'T' section, alot of people make the mistake of drawing the electrode out when crossing the middle..maybe because it's farther away. Hope my ramblings help.

nayto wrote:

shorty_f0rty wrote:

nayto wrote:Thanks for the reply, whats the Boc worth?
Yeh they are handy, take them anywhere regardless of the wind and 10amp plug too. I've never tried an expensive gasless mig, but the cheap ones ive used are just hopeless......could be the operator though

Paid retail ~$325

Thats way cheaper than i expected......did that come with lead, clamp etc ready to go?

I have a cig inverter somewhere about 170 amp cant remember exactly) its done alot of work for me including 3 trailers in the back yard and its brilliant. I tried welding some panel with it to see how it would go and I had to work slowly but it was doable for sure. it was a roof section so not sure if thats thicker than normal doors etc.

Quick question ... my dad has an old 1 or 3 phase (convertible) 250A Lincoln welder with high and low ranges that he needs to get rid of ... it's probably from the 1970's and is the size of an under-desk set of filing drawers. Is it the kind of thing that anyone would want anymore or does he just take it down the scrap metal yard?

Moph wrote:Quick question ... my dad has an old 1 or 3 phase (convertible) 250A Lincoln welder with high and low ranges that he needs to get rid of ... it's probably from the 1970's and is the size of an under-desk set of filing drawers. Is it the kind of thing that anyone would want anymore or does he just take it down the scrap metal yard?

ill give you a can of wild turkey for it

Anyone got some pics/tip for upside down chassis welding using a gas MIG?

JrZook wrote:Anyone got some pics/tip for upside down chassis welding using a gas MIG?

Wind the wire speed up a bit extra, travel a little faster. Make sure the tip and shroud are clean as. (ill usually put in a new tip and shroud).

Dont weld in a push/pull fashion, drag sideways. Do it in 2 inch stitches if need be.

Has anyone on here had any experience welding up an intercooler core from ADRAD? Welded up one years ago and had plenty of problems with the solder coating used to 'glue' the end plates on the tubes. The bloke who sold it said all you have to do is run a band saw blade through the the joint to rid the solder but i think this is shit. You can't weld ally with anything on it except other ally! The cores look really good and would like to use another for myself but am put off untill i can weld tanks on it without porosity from the solder. Anyone running one?

rowenb wrote:Has anyone on here had any experience welding up an intercooler core from ADRAD? Welded up one years ago and had plenty of problems with the solder coating used to 'glue' the end plates on the tubes. The bloke who sold it said all you have to do is run a band saw blade through the the joint to rid the solder but i think this is shit. You can't weld ally with anything on it except other ally! The cores look really good and would like to use another for myself but am put off untill i can weld tanks on it without porosity from the solder. Anyone running one?

Buy a new intercooler there cheap as chips unless your prepared to remove all the other shit you won't be able to weld it ally is fussy it needs to be clean befor you can weld it

Buy a new intercooler

Nah i want to make my own cooler for the experience and to get what i want in the end. Gonna look into getting the tubes seperate as well and weld em into the side plate (mucking around i know but i'll have a look anyway).

rowenb wrote:Has anyone on here had any experience welding up an intercooler core from ADRAD? Welded up one years ago and had plenty of problems with the solder coating used to 'glue' the end plates on the tubes. The bloke who sold it said all you have to do is run a band saw blade through the the joint to rid the solder but i think this is shit. You can't weld ally with anything on it except other ally! The cores look really good and would like to use another for myself but am put off untill i can weld tanks on it without porosity from the solder. Anyone running one?

We use Adrad cores (both intercooler and radiator) for all our custom stuff and it's just the surface finish of the header plate from the furnace brazing that's the problem.
To get around it we use small (3", 75mm) diameter roloc sanding discs and sand the header plate (CAREFULLY) along its edge and on both the top and bottom surfaces to get to clean material and we have no problems.
Regards Andrew.
ps: It doesn't matter what core you use you still need to get rid of the surface finish if the core has been furnace brazed in its construction.

well I got a hard on from this thread and i cant weld to save myself

Anyone got any tips on welding alumium with a Mig? I have a roll of ally wire I'd like to play with. Currently have an almost empty bottle of argoshield light. While I have been told this gas is "useable but not ideal" I'm thinking 100% argon is the go. I loaded up the ally spool and had a play but I'm dropping birdshit welds on pretty much any voltage/wire speed/gas flow setting - is this due to the gas?

liner?

you need a different liner for aluminium, using one that has had steel wire through it will introduce contaminants to the weld.

Get your self a new stainless steel wire brush(must be new and not used for other things otherwise you contaminate the weld), clean the weld area thoroughly with the brush before welding and after every spot weld, stitch weld etc before continuing the weld. Contaminants on the surface of the parent metal will play havoc with getting a decent weld

Bevel off edges prior to butt welding to keep a flatter weld

Aluminium transfers heat very rapidly, so as you weld heat travels through the material almost preheating it ahead of the weld pool. It makes it hard to get the settings on the MIG right, as settings for cold and heated material need to be different. A setting that is right at the begining of the weld, can see you creating molten mess further along the joint. Varying the torch position can help this a bit.

Take this with a grain of salt, I am a chippy not a welder, but it is my understanding of it. I have managed some fair welds in ally over the years, but it is difficult

All good advice. Will have to grab another liner. Can anyone confirm the gas situation? Can I use one type of gas successfully for both steel and ally or am I grabbing 2 separate bottles? Am I wasting my time trying to weld with the argoshield I have left?