Due to the amount of PM's and emails received by myself and Kent, I think it's time for a 'Sticky' Thread on SAS for Feroza's / US Rocky's !
In this thread, we shall discuss what needs to be achieved to do this. We shall also have various pictures of the build-ups throughout.
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S A S
Moderator: Tiny
WHAT YOU NEED - Before you start
- Consultation with an Engineer - for legalities
Axles / Differentials - Front and Rear (Both Kent and I have used Toyotas for donor Diffs, not sure about using other brands, but the Toyota ones are 'plentiful' and relatively easy to convert....ie. already setup for SPOA)
Modified Tailshafts - Front and Rear (A$160-200ea)
Welding Certificate...or Someone that has one - to fabricate front spring hangers
Modified Steering components - Power Steering box may need moving
Brake Line modifications - longer lines, different handbrake set-up on donor diffs
4" + 9" Angle Grinder - to remove IFS
......the list goes on......I'm sure Kent will add his thoughts as well
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]
GU4800
GU4800
G'Day Besty & All,
New spring perch's, spring hangers, leaf packs for the front, shackles and longer shocks. Steering stuff...Heim or Johnny joints, DOM tubing and threaded inserts. You will want to get new ring and pinion gears and the install kits for each axle.
The Feroza/ US Rocky rear axle is 54.13" wheel to wheel. Stock Offset FJ40 cruiser rear end width WTW (Wheel To Wheel)= 1400mm=55.1" (inches). V-6 or turbo toy pickup rearend (55" or 58" WTW). The most favored front axle is the 1985 4Runner (Surf) axle as it has reinforcing gussets welded all over the axle. This axle is super strong and will handle a V-8's torque. I am not sure as to the exact wheel to wheel length is for the `85 but I had to have 3/4" wheel spacers to even the front with my `91 Hilux/ pickup rear axle. Both of my axles are 8" ring gear size. Toyota also made a 7.5". Dana 44 axles would work also and you can get 6.21:1(?) gearing. What ever axle you are thinking of installing make sure that you can get the R&P gears/ lockers that you want.
Now is the time to think about gearing. The Feroza runs 5.29:1 R&P gears but if you have noticed while running 31" tyres that you have lost some power. I have 5.71:1 R&P gears and 33" tyres with more power than I had with the Daihatsu 5.29's and 31" tyres. I am not sure what transmission you are running behind your V-6 Besty but I still have the stock Feroza/US Rocky transmission and transfer case. That's the reason for the 5.71:1 gears in mine. When I go to the W56 transmission I will probably go back to 5.29's or 4.88's unless I go with 35-37" tyres. Then I will probably keep the 5.71:1's and get some Super Birfields or Longfields...KaBoom :-)
Now is the time to add a locker if you can afford it. Besty has a spring over and I have a spring under in the front. We both have a spring over in the rear. I believe that Besty's front springs have the shackle in the rear and mine are on the front. Three link, four link...many options.
More to come...
New spring perch's, spring hangers, leaf packs for the front, shackles and longer shocks. Steering stuff...Heim or Johnny joints, DOM tubing and threaded inserts. You will want to get new ring and pinion gears and the install kits for each axle.
The Feroza/ US Rocky rear axle is 54.13" wheel to wheel. Stock Offset FJ40 cruiser rear end width WTW (Wheel To Wheel)= 1400mm=55.1" (inches). V-6 or turbo toy pickup rearend (55" or 58" WTW). The most favored front axle is the 1985 4Runner (Surf) axle as it has reinforcing gussets welded all over the axle. This axle is super strong and will handle a V-8's torque. I am not sure as to the exact wheel to wheel length is for the `85 but I had to have 3/4" wheel spacers to even the front with my `91 Hilux/ pickup rear axle. Both of my axles are 8" ring gear size. Toyota also made a 7.5". Dana 44 axles would work also and you can get 6.21:1(?) gearing. What ever axle you are thinking of installing make sure that you can get the R&P gears/ lockers that you want.
Now is the time to think about gearing. The Feroza runs 5.29:1 R&P gears but if you have noticed while running 31" tyres that you have lost some power. I have 5.71:1 R&P gears and 33" tyres with more power than I had with the Daihatsu 5.29's and 31" tyres. I am not sure what transmission you are running behind your V-6 Besty but I still have the stock Feroza/US Rocky transmission and transfer case. That's the reason for the 5.71:1 gears in mine. When I go to the W56 transmission I will probably go back to 5.29's or 4.88's unless I go with 35-37" tyres. Then I will probably keep the 5.71:1's and get some Super Birfields or Longfields...KaBoom :-)
Now is the time to add a locker if you can afford it. Besty has a spring over and I have a spring under in the front. We both have a spring over in the rear. I believe that Besty's front springs have the shackle in the rear and mine are on the front. Three link, four link...many options.
More to come...
G'Day All.
Since nobody is posting I guess that I will go first on my SAS...Besty, feel free to correct me at any point.
My reasons (have to justify it somehow) for the SAS was that my front diff. was going out. I priced a new diff from Daihatsu and it was from $995.00 - $1295.00 US. I didn't look into a used one if I could have found one in the US. The total for the SAS was right around $5000.00 US which was more than I paid for the whole truck. I did have to borrow money to pay for it. I think that it was well worth the money as I would have probably spent at least half of that on a "real" lift kit fromOZ. I replaced the front wheel bearings on my IFS and just the C clip for the halfshaft was $9.00 US...$9.00 for a Daihatsu C clip? The wheel bearings were $70.00 US each from Daihatsu and I cross referenced them for a Timken bearing at $40.00 US each. Well anyway the Toyota parts are much easier to find and cheaper also. Another reason is the articulation of the front end and the unavailability of after market parts for the Daihatsu IFS. I am sure that most of us have had a front wheel in the air or have had to drive around an obstacle due to lack of font articulation. Yet another reason is the limitation of gearing and locking differentials. I was maxed out on my suspension lift and could only run 31" tyres due to gearing. Yet one more and the bottom of the list is it looks cool.
Since nobody is posting I guess that I will go first on my SAS...Besty, feel free to correct me at any point.
My reasons (have to justify it somehow) for the SAS was that my front diff. was going out. I priced a new diff from Daihatsu and it was from $995.00 - $1295.00 US. I didn't look into a used one if I could have found one in the US. The total for the SAS was right around $5000.00 US which was more than I paid for the whole truck. I did have to borrow money to pay for it. I think that it was well worth the money as I would have probably spent at least half of that on a "real" lift kit fromOZ. I replaced the front wheel bearings on my IFS and just the C clip for the halfshaft was $9.00 US...$9.00 for a Daihatsu C clip? The wheel bearings were $70.00 US each from Daihatsu and I cross referenced them for a Timken bearing at $40.00 US each. Well anyway the Toyota parts are much easier to find and cheaper also. Another reason is the articulation of the front end and the unavailability of after market parts for the Daihatsu IFS. I am sure that most of us have had a front wheel in the air or have had to drive around an obstacle due to lack of font articulation. Yet another reason is the limitation of gearing and locking differentials. I was maxed out on my suspension lift and could only run 31" tyres due to gearing. Yet one more and the bottom of the list is it looks cool.
I was not at the shop during the axle swap so I missed much of what took place. I wanted to be there when the IFS was torched off but had to be at work...sparks and clanking metal...damn. I don't know the exact facts on some points.
I should point out that when you buy your axles you should or have a shop check them over and replace parts before you start. I had to replace trunion bearings, a manual locking hub, brake pads, rotors and calipers in the front. In the rear I had to replace the pinion bearing, drums and shoes.
The rear axle is easier to do than the front so I'll start with that. I was able to keep my Daihatsu rear leaf pack. The old Toyota spring perches were ground off and a new set was welded in place on top of the axle for the spring over the axle. Extended stainless steel brake lines were added and some crappy old Black Diamond shocks that were probably laying around the shop. I just recently replaced the shocks and shock mounts. From Pirate 4X4:
Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare.
ProComp #7210 Longer than stock Stainless Steel (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688
[EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]
8"-10" extension brake line extension for front or rear is a Napa #77544
[EDIT: old part number was 72210]
The Daihatsu brake drums are about ten inches in diameter and the Toyota's are around twelve inches in diameter. The emergency brake cable is rigged up and I will change that at some point though it does work. I kept my extended shackles also.
I should point out that when you buy your axles you should or have a shop check them over and replace parts before you start. I had to replace trunion bearings, a manual locking hub, brake pads, rotors and calipers in the front. In the rear I had to replace the pinion bearing, drums and shoes.
The rear axle is easier to do than the front so I'll start with that. I was able to keep my Daihatsu rear leaf pack. The old Toyota spring perches were ground off and a new set was welded in place on top of the axle for the spring over the axle. Extended stainless steel brake lines were added and some crappy old Black Diamond shocks that were probably laying around the shop. I just recently replaced the shocks and shock mounts. From Pirate 4X4:
Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare.
ProComp #7210 Longer than stock Stainless Steel (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688
[EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]
8"-10" extension brake line extension for front or rear is a Napa #77544
[EDIT: old part number was 72210]
The Daihatsu brake drums are about ten inches in diameter and the Toyota's are around twelve inches in diameter. The emergency brake cable is rigged up and I will change that at some point though it does work. I kept my extended shackles also.
I forgot to point out that the four cylinder and six cylinder third member are different...larger carrier bearings in the six cylinder for one. You will have to remember what what third members you have when replacing ring and pinion gears or installing lockers. Toyota has also produced the 7.5", high pinion, 6 cyl. turbo, t-100 and taco...third generation diffs. I have both front and rear 4 cyl. 8" third members.
The front is much more difficult to engineer. As you will notice in the picture that the frame is not parallel from front to back. Besides being narrower in the front there is also a taper. The picture shows the spring axle location for the front and rear using stock rear Daihatsu leaf springs. The rear spring packs are definatly too long (46") to be used in the front without building out the front of the frame. There are spring packs that are longer in the rear than they are in the front i.e. say the length of the spring pack from the axle forward is 22" and the length of the spring pack back is 27". I will probably go this route in time so that I can get a longer spring in the front. I am now using Jeep Wrangler springs that are 43 (?) inches...have to verify that. These springs are the same length in front and behind the axle and in a spring under configuration. Spring hangers...well I know that Besty's are different from mine and the shop used an unusual approach when fabbing up my front hangers. See pics. This works OK in the spring under.
Last edited by Toyhatsu on Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I will probably go to a spring over in the front even though I don't want to go any higher with suspension lift. I am thinking of using a flat spring in front with a shackle reversal and longer arched springs and blocks in the rear. In this case I think that the best front spring hangers would be like this.
These two shots show the rear front spring hanger just in front of the cross member. The cross member to the rear of the transmission cross member was torched off to allow for the travel of the rear drive shaft. Also note that there were stainless steel puks (spacers) made for the front and rear drive shafts. These were made to greatly reduce the drive line vibration. I believe that I am running the stock drive shafts but will have to verify that. Also note that the front drive shaft pinion angle is much more that the rear. This is due to the very short Feroza front drive shaft and the lift involved.
well kent.. i have to admit... ur rig looks great! i'm not going to go ur route though. i want to use what i got... an get the most out of what i got. tryin to keep it all stock with minor mods throughout. jus makes it more appealing to me i guess. heh. now if i was able to source a second rocky an afford to make heavy mods to it.. i would... god i'd love to... but thats ALOT farther down the road.. great lookin rig though!
[quote="simplypv"]its a Strine thing and i just dont understand![/quote]
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
Regards, PV
Team [size=134][color=red][i]Anti-[/i][/color][/size]Asshat [b][color=orange]#5[/color][/b]- Yank!
SimplyPV,
Thanks for the compliment. I should get some recent pictures of it as it looks somewhat different today than two years ago when the swap was done.
I doubt whether very many people will do this sort of Frankensten work on their Daihatsu's. At least most details of the swap will be there (here) if anyone needs it.
Thanks for the compliment. I should get some recent pictures of it as it looks somewhat different today than two years ago when the swap was done.
I doubt whether very many people will do this sort of Frankensten work on their Daihatsu's. At least most details of the swap will be there (here) if anyone needs it.
I'm selling my feroza because I wanted to do SOA with lux diffs to it but to get it engineered in my state would be nearly impossible 
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